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Gaeta Falcata (Gajeta Falkusa) by jack.aubrey - FINISHED - Marisstella - 1:20 Scale


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Saturday, October 22, 2016 - Introduction

 

During the end of last week I issued on the internet an order for a kit of a new ship model. Yesterday I regularly received the package from the manufacturer and now I am going to open a new shipyard that I believe will keep me happily busy for the next months. Knowing myself I think I'll need, excluding unforeseen situations, a whole year to finish it, but this is just a raw idea.

 

My thinking is that the model I chose was greatly illustrated with a plethora of images in the topic "Italian boats (and not) in the Adriatic Sea". Goto here to review it http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14414-italian-boats-of-the-adriatic-sea/ . I'm referring to the "Gaeta Falcata" or "Gajeta Falkusa". As widely explained in the topic mentioned above it is a boat originating from island of Vis and used in the past by fishermen of Comiso, a village of that island.

 

The kit is produced by a Croatian company, MARISSTELLA from Split, established in 2008. I discovered this company on ModelShipWorld forum where it has, in the home page, a ad banner. MARISSTELLA has a very interesting catalog, especially focused on boats of the Adriatic Sea. The first impression is positive: the material inside contained is quite valid, the timber is of good quality and the two paper sheets of building plans are very well made. The wood pieces are laser pre-cut, using both plywood and solid wood.

 

For now, in my opinion, the major weakness consists in the building instructions: they are written in Croatian language and English.

 

Well, you may say, you know English quite well and so, where is the problem? The problem is that that English is a lot to be desired and definitely looks like a translation made with Google Translator, most probably a version of a few years ago, and it is therefore hard to understand the concepts to be followed for the building. Luckily there are plenty of photographs of the various build stages, which help me a lot, but, although abundant for some steps, they are totally missing for others and I find several problems in understanding the whole process in a consistent and methodic way.

 

For now I'm spending a bit of time to read them, interpret them, understand them, and given that I'm studying them, rewrite them in a better English with the objective to propose this translation as a gift to the kit manufacturer when all the steps will be checked (this just to avoid me too to write wrong things).

 

Finally, again in terms of weaknesses, I would expect that at least all the frames of this model, in the classical three-pieces structure, were already laser pre-cut. Instead the kit provides many walnut and lime 3x3mm strips that must be soaked and bent before being applied inside the hull. This operation, anyway possible, stretches and increases the overall processing time. Being it a kit, it seems a pretty serious lack. I'll experience  in practice how much more time it will need.

 

We will analyze more in detail later all the steps that will lead to the building of the hull inside and outside. Now it isn't the right moment.

 

Here, instead, I would like to propose some of the kit images and the material contained inside.

 

First, a bit of data:

1:20 scale

total length (with boom) 70.4 cm

packaging dimensions 65 x 21.5 cm

 

Now we can start looking at our kit box before opening it:

 

y4mvSsJZBnGSdRg7ALBxNX8-txdmF7SbP9Sn_ozl

 

Edited by jack.aubrey
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Saturday, October 22, 2016 - The plans

 

Plans are grouped into two (quite large) sheets, scale 1:1

y4mdcRzNeQoS45BtHQOArrYa8ZeBMLQC_WG4ZuUJ 01 - 20161021_163929.jpg

The first sheet, whole image . .

y4mM3BXz_7xfoimA7Tr_rNWBikxVCPUNQ-m2jusx 02 - Falkusa1.jpg

. . and here the second sheet, more useful than the first one to see and plan how to preceed in building the hull

y4myoPbtk7WbH5fcgcU3l42IQLAK4Jfr9HLXGgy3 03 - Falkusa2.jpg[/img]

Some detailed images of the plans, they are clear and well done and every component is correctly numbered.
A image from sheet #1 . .

y4m531nhgDRWE8Al7sovs5iB-j8XgvEqKrzO4pWk 04 - 20161021_163953.jpg

And a couple of images from sheet #2 . . 

y4mMo3iFMQNzUul7xMaJkmxeyG6hXY-yEqBpmPZA 05 - 20161021_164028.jpg

y4mU2rvDGz8dvFQNBRGSEISHaPvxxf5N0ezBamFW 06 - 20161021_164052

A final clarification: the construction of this model will take place while I'm staying at my daughter's house in Calci (Pisa). As I explained when I was working on the Viking ship, considering the limited equipment I have in Tuscany, I opted to purchase a kit rather than planning a scratch build; this in hope of having less need of the materials and the tools I keep in my workshop in Cinisello (Milan). On the other side, when I'm living in Milan, I will be mainly working on the Brick HMS Guadelupe.

Cheers, Jack.

 

Edited by jack.aubrey
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Saturday, October 22, 2016 - Inside the box #1

 

Let's start by opening the box and analyze its contents. In the background of this first image the printed material, ie the building plans, the assembly instructions, and other; in the foreground the timber and accessories . .

y4mhup-irRaa_Yhlzzf2MPP_Qx_UPc2KJfyYcPuf 01 20161021_163757.jpg


Below: on the right the booklet of the building instructions, in English and Croatian language, with a good number of photographs in black and white; on the left side, some color images of the finished model and a small catalog of the models produced by MARISTELLA.

y4mJ3zLV1bYmCKxNU-kGrTAXK_0P1eehsUAhkPkq 02 - 20161021_163850.jpg

The part relating to the timber and accessories: plywood pre-cut laser elements, solid wood elements always laser cut, strips for planking and other details, as the pre-sewn sails, rope reels of various diameters and accessories usually on board this boat.

y4m5LVBQjbGmOGpvurNN_dNcchyRnVgCwasEbMOc 03 - 20161021_164119.jpg

 

Edited by jack.aubrey
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Saturday, October 22, 2016 - Inside the box #2

 

The laser pre-cut material in poplar plywood: it contains the elements to setup the mounting structure for the hull and the pedestal;

 

y4mE8GkAwT8g-BGC6P3fAgPZEuZPxg0F3bZTgBG- 01 - 20161021_164317.jpg

 

The pre-cut material in solid wood . . on top the elements constituting the keel and rudder;

 

y4m1vRhIvXSEdNYLwoFHvc-wHd58fjFJ2iLPJZta 02 - 20161021_164247.jpg

 

strips of wood, walnut and lime, for planking and other model's elements such as oars, masts, rods etc. The pre-sewn sails, ropes for rigging and the anchor . . only the dish with anchovies which I have proposed in the other thread about the Adriatic Sea boats is missing.

 

y4mAOSFTQpm8BbDPLDnn8FhF1d2Mx8aZYNOoRTi9 03 - 20161021_164206.jpg

 

With this post I have finished the presentation of the kit, it is now time to get down to work. In the dead time I'm trying to understand the instructions, thing a little complicated, and I'm writing my English revision of the installation instructions. After I think I could make even the Italian version as a gift for the kit manufacturer, provided that MarisStella can find it useful . .

Edited by jack.aubrey
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Monday October 24, 2016

 

I'm starting with the most classic and intuitive boat component: the assembly of the various elements that together make up the keel.
There are here three main pieces, of which the first two are the most structured: the stern . .

 

y4mi-8EZAc02ABDRXj4eMGwgB5XpYj1epzm5kexe 01 - 20161024_164802.jpg

 

the bow . .

 

y4mpM5EWvoW37XGiHVChLo2t9tJbsoJG8CCyrAui 02 - 20161024_164808.jpg

 

and the central body that connects the two ends.

The material used for the keel is made from a walnut tablet 4mm thick.
The pieces fit together perfectly and so there were no significant adjustments to make.
The only activity necessary by now was the removal of the "burnt" of laser cutting. In fact, I noticed that this burned surface, if not previously removed, was making the PVA glue working badly.

 

y4mC50jC5kAFHDqAm-KCeMt2UVvj6P5Rv7yfKNCb 03 - 20161024_164756.jpg

 

In short, a few minutes homework . . Regards, Jack.

Edited by jack.aubrey
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Monday, October 24, 2016

 

While I was assembling together the elements of the keel I started also to prepare a first building slip that, for this model, I believe is even of greater importance than in my previous experiences, perhaps excluding the Viking ship. In fact this model was thought by MarisStella as a mean for planking the hull with the bulkheads facing downwards.

This building slip is made with a plywood board of 2cm on which I wrote the position of the bulkheads and the central element that aligns them. To keep in the correct position this element I applied some wood guides positioned properly.

Here two images of the building slip, as it is now. I do not exclude some modifications and/or additions later.

 

y4mbRUdErp_fZT6bNBFCYjPS5X7A7zXnkiHj9fXA 01 - 20161025_090412.jpg

 

y4mz8cpyD9U13BECUh51pxmz-5Mbrz2lj5iZ54tP 02 - 20161025_090418.jpg

 

Here below, three later images of the slip with some pre-cut laser elements of the kit already positioned. Thay make up the hull skeleton.

 

y4mcd-Rd6pxejC7HVztAToGXVm0mN9mgqZfLHdjG 03 - 20161024_164728.jpg

 

y4mzEEoeIElLnd322ThBCH1TtEV-5Eb6XtpsM1qg 04 - 20161024_164720.jpg

 

y4mE1eOqLawXngGt3Qt5ppN_rkwgPa1b_xP9JkU8 05 - 20161024_164658.jpg

 

That's all for today, to the next issue . . Jack.

 

Edited by jack.aubrey
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Hi Jack,

looks very promising. Relatively unknown company focused on local boats. Probably they will not be so popular as all those Victories and Bluenoses, but still these vessels have lot of charm. I used to sail in Croatia for one week in summer on a chartered yacht - so somehow this subject is a little bit closer to me than any other ship. And will watch your progress.  Please do mention higlights but also minuses, if you find any. I would like to learn how is the kit good and possibly worthy to get. Good luck.

Juraj

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Thursday, October 27, 2016

 

A small step forward. .

 

Today I proceeded to glue together all the three main elements of the keel. To insure their correct positioning, I proceeded to glue under them a photocopy of the drawings where the keel is visible. This because the keel is not perfectly straight but is slightly curved and only the plan give the right way. Now it remains to apply a strip 5 x 1.5mm which will form the false keel to complete. At this point the keel can be positioned on the hull skeleton. All joints are refined and tested.

 

A couple of views of the keel, with all its elements: the keel, fore foot, stem, apron of the stem, stern and stern knee. 

 

01 - 20161027_155255.jpgy4mWg_FZBgjJqUyhf8tRaQ1bhNE12a7wLk0ZmXRm

02 - 20161027_155334.jpgy4maeSrsmJaggOyVXIGGTXOPWfqSPdq6tAVRT3wU

 

Meanwhile the hull structure has been enriched by new elements that hold the complex together and stiffen it.

 

It is necessary to emphasize here that this entire structure, except for reinforcements 16.1, 16.2, 16.3 and 16.4 which are glued together, stays together not thanks to glue but for all its joints. The keel also, once positioned, will not be glued but only stuck.

 

It is therefore essential that all the joints are perfect, neither too wide, otherwise they would not hold all together, neither too tight, otherwise there is the risk of possible deformations. The planking must also be done in a way that it's carried mainly between a strake and its adjacent, using the bulkheads only as a support but possibly avoiding glue. An alternative method is to apply on the thickness of the bulkheads a plastic tape. This is because, once the planking is over, you should be able to easily detach the shell (planking lus keel) from the skeleton shown below.

 

03 - 20161027_155152.jpgy4mEAWXGE_Z3ZDdEalYHnEUKMP2TmCDsryU4QPzw 

04 - 20161027_155210.jpgy4ml6ubeXaUF8_rDLvgtusAcdc0sK5uUs5lYwdvj

 

See you tomorrow . . Jack.

 

 

 

 

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Hi Jack, congratulations on your new build and I know you will enjoy it. Having watched your last build I have no reason to believe you will have any problem making this a beautiful boat.

 Having some experience, but far from an expert, with these kits my best piece of advice is to follow the plans very closely. Unlike many others these are very precise and by all means take your measurements from them. Look very close at them, a problem I keep having, and you will find all the information you will need.

 The instructions are a little vague at times and hard to understand( I am finding it is getting easier as I go along) but what they lack the plans make up for. If you do have problems give Zoran a email, he is a great guy and has always come through for me and most times the same day.

 It is my understanding that they are in the process of re-writing all of their instructions for their kits so they may very well appreciate your help in re-writing these.

 In the meantime enjoy your build and I will gladly follow along.

 

Hi Don, many thanks for your suggestions.

 

Regarding the assembling instructions I am in contact with Zoran who sent me a (for the moment) unofficial new version of them. In addition to the Croatian and English language, this version contains also instructions in Italian language.

 

The new document is much better than the old one, the English has been revised and the Italian seem to be written by an italian man . . surely it better clarifies some not clear sentences contained in the old text.

 

Many thanks for this gift to Zoran, very good behaviour from him . . greatly appreciated.

Regards, Jack.

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Hi Jack,

 

thank You very much, You are welcome...

 

By the way I should say we are doing complete instructions in better English and adding Italian language to all products... We are doing this very fast so many of the kits are finished by now... Besides, the old English versions were not so bad , but improving and perfecting is always actual, this is my personal motto :) :) ...

Best regards,
Zoran

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Saturday, October 29, 2016

 

The approaching steps for the task of planking are continuing . .

 

I have completed the keel, applying the walnut 1,5x5 strip which constitutes the false keel. Then, after cleaning the whole by sanding, I tested the dry mounting of this piece: perfect.

 

A due tribute to the laser cutting technology and the kit manufacturer . .

 

Then I run some additional changes to the building slip to allow to hold the hull structure, which I remember, is not glued together but stays only thanks to the many joints.

 

With these slight changes, in due course, I will fix everything in a stable and robust way to the building slip and I hope to avoid many worries. At the end of planking, I'll need just a scissor to detach eveything without efforts.

 

02 - 20161029_165048.jpgy4mm57RqcZzZdqHVopGDh701u7xwygCq1u2ZaX1_

03 - 20161029_165252.jpgy4mHwdmDJvYNZM1yxN2IkO44-Wcxyjng9o8slunB

04 - 20161029_165109.jpgy4mqOVpftQXL5DMRLj33CPhxnRK55LcLZ4W97QO_

Detail of the metal rings and pins, all elements glued to the slip with cyan-acrylate to insure strenght; they will serve to firmly hold the bulkheads to the building slip.

 

05 - 20161029_201736.jpgy4mqfeJkXeLjtkX7Cga_g-P8j-1CLRl2Bqgqqm4Q

See you next time . . Jack.

 

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Wednesday, November 2, 2016

 

Although visibly there are few things new, in fact, since my last message, I had a heavy working session, in particular:

 

1) shaping of many bulkheads to obtain the correct camber; unlike my previous experiences, here I could just remove the bulkhead away and work on it comfortably on the table; this fact simplified tasks in some ways but complicated for others, i.e. having to remove and reposition the bulkheads each time I had to run a check;

 

2) application on the thikness of the bulkhead, on which the planking will rest, of a adhesive tape to make sure that the bulkheads bonding becomes strongly weakened in order to facilitate the detachment of the hull shell at the end of the planking task; in the past I used the technique to rub the wax of a candle on the bulkhead thickness, but it worked partially well; I think this system should work better.

 

The result of this work is shown in the two pictures that follow.

 

01 - 20161101_165109.jpgy4mrNnjC1tTXiat3Wt9RK4eMiPzUkUIkp7vRtEJv

02 - 20161101_165100.jpgy4mA9cNMWZSAUyWvln5PdfUb3dzG3V7gDBqO2GoJ

 

3) Fixing the bulkheads (and consequently the whole hull structure) to the building slip with cotton wire using the pins and rings, previously installed on the building slip and on the bulkhead. A drop of cyano-acrylate on the wire ensures that knots last forever.

 

03 - 20161102_155732.jpgy4mi5P-lpnT9lQXBxbGD05PFzt2lMOExGhtnGFaX 

04 - 20161102_155750.jpgy4mf4CBpHXI55lPBEUG4ORkU601LquXUO_t0KXVR

05 - 20161102_155743.jpgy4mane1YC9ROIe8xgRsUqdN3bhu1OBKr2V139Qub

Now the "march" towards the beginning of the planking task is almost complete. Only two small details at the bow and two at the stern are missing; I am beginning working on them.

 

See you soon, Jack.Aubrey.

 

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Friday, November 4, 2016

 

Now all the preparatory tasks for the planking are completed . . .

 

The missing elements were the four bow and stern components, properly shaped, where underlie the strips of the planking; without them it would be difficult to glue the planks to the keel.

 

These components are laser pre-cut in the kit with the same material of the other keel elements, ie walnut. But a approx 45° bevel is to be made and I found serious difficulties to achieve this job due to the pieces of wood quite small, made in addition with a hard wood such as walnut. So I redid them using good birch plywood of the same thickness, but working before on the part to be beveled and only later by  cutting out the inside of the piece. . it was another way of life !!

 

Only inconvenient was the need to subsequently dye with mordant these redone pieces, of different color.

 

Below a quite abundant overview showing these four elements definitely glued to the keel.

 

Now everything is ready to begin the installation of the planks: walnut strips 5 x 1.5mm. Please wish me good luck, thank you.

 

01 - 20161104_165225.jpgy4mowo6HPXkdtlkl9BPIA3hSC19aegtwREs5b6M2

02 - 20161104_165215.jpgy4msPuUR7dwVlGy_ifKXxnv7xnTKQNdyC9YUI5hH

03 - 20161104_165159.jpgy4mvW6LSIMSLeCE6oKDcej-XAh9FsuRcmcAyPjjW

04 - 20161104_165132.jpgy4mGqd4M7l1qDXpG73aE407x-6ZuHjbtKMjeGmZP

 
Aft, figures 5 and 7, I slightly changed the shape of these original elements. This because it was not possible to get the bevel, more than 45°, on the original form . . after checking on the plans I decided for this change as these items will not be visible. Infact there is a small deck that will hide them from viewing.

 

05 - 20161104_165505.jpgy4m2JmnFoO_DswBxSxmvMQJiH0vzGZLCWY4Gwr-A

06 - 20161104_165252.jpgy4m5A9ri7xgAUtCic_U5XO4RG_VejQh26qXh6fv7

07 - 20161104_165241.jpgy4mvPA70EtrYOrmK3uRV1IGzuPLBhgbI4P1o6RWB

08 - 20161104_165453.jpgy4m8FoZNwWoJnj9zqCNBnFQyZnglErUZub4Iarsb

To the next issue, Jack.

 

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Friday, November 4, 2016

 

Since I do not foresee the use of nails during the planking of this model, I thought about alternative solutions that do not require stinging somehow the walnut strips, which are known to break down in an attempt to push through tacks or pins without drilling the strip in advance.

 

I decided to use the method below that will be using clips for paper, suitably modified.

 

Below some of these clamps ready for use, even if their use at some point will have to be supplemented with something else at the moment I do not know . .

 

01 - 20161104_171325.jpgy4m8MYsJnyUaQvgo1indc-qH7A6K4Tmeq17QYp92

Below is an example that clarifies how you must use these clamps to hold the planks in position while the glue is drying.

 

02 - 20161104_171332.jpgy4mpSL6NgQNpu098IpstN83mMHG_c1DC7KLhCTjF

See you next time, Jack.

 

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Friday, November 11, 2016

 

I finally started to apply the planking . . I say finally because, as I was ready a week ago, due to adverse weather conditions and other unforeseen commitments, I could just start yesterday.

 

From the first, although limited, experience, the matter seems to appear long enough, as I expected. Due to the impossibility to use nails to hold the strakes, I can install a strip per side a day; then I have to stop and wait for the glue to completely dry. So it will be a work of great patience, a exercise of  self-control at a high level.

 

According to my expectations, after applying these two first courses, it's still needed to install 13 strakes to reach the keel. So if I install one strake per day I'll need at least 13 sessions (but let's call them "days") to finish.

 

In each session, the sequence of operations is:

 

1) cut the two strips to the correct length with high precision;

2) taper a strip according to a scale table that I'm going to prepare on my pc;

3) apply the tapered plank of step 2 on one side of the hull; the bonding is with the bulkheads but especially with the other adjacent plank;

 

. . . . . then, while the glue in the meantime dries a little, giving me the possibility to operate on the other side . .

 

4) taper the second strip as in step 2;

5) apply the tapered plank of step 4 on the other side of the hull;

6) end of the session, bring the dog to **** hoping it's not raining.

 

Special tricks for the bending of the planks weren't necessary, and I believe will be the same also for the future, .

 

Now, some photos of the result of two days of work. . Regards, Jack.
 

01 - 20161111_155313.jpgy4m4Xe36E8F-t0A9iknVvKYBBuUpnSAE81lBmTFc

02 - 20161111_155318.jpgy4mIndGqUillAaZ11tvoqNKR1IIUGSLF6gTUXkRh

03 - 20161111_155322.jpgy4mvyW0JXvWrRMLKetQlY4cjldwDl6rovZLuzN_b  

04 - 20161111_155329.jpgy4mgwTjV6Qrlj4bZFWBIkmWdzCQ4COn3TaSqIZp4 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thursday, November 17, 2016

 

The planking task is going on . . slowly

 

As I anticipated in a previous message this activity, for this particular model, is proving more boring (in terms of time) than difficult.

Since I can't use nails and similar to hold the strakes, I need to work using exclusively clamps, so I have to wait for the glue to dry before going on further.

In this way, as I dedicate to my hobby a (part of a) day, usually the afternoon, I proceed at a speed of a strake per side per day.

Today I applied the sixth plank, so then, to complete the hull planking, I need to install other 8 strips: almost two weeks from tomorrow.

 

Here below a picture of the model taken this morning, before installing the sixth strake.

 

01 - 20161117_104955.jpgy4mayy47ZsKMkO0uvS63Z7gktFK9DJSvmwBkDrVG

In the next image, in the foreground, two clamps specially made to hold the tips of the planks at bow and stern. They are proving invaluable in their function. The sandpaper applied at their tips is thought to avoid sliding on the keel; the pressure is exerted on the other hand via a common clamp as shown below in image 03.

 

02 - 20161117_105027.jpgy4mW8v8t_0qRK_CVKK4ciV49XI0sXmSQS2zxiVWt

In this picture a "catalog" of all the clamps I have to use during this task, here waiting for the glue makes its duty.

 

See you next time, Jack.

 

Edited by jack.aubrey
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Friday, November 25, 2016

 

The task of installing the planks is proceeding but slowly . . . Now there are only four strips missing.

 

Tomorrow I'll install another one but then I need to stop for a while because this Sunday I have to come back in Milan, where I'll stay for about a week before returning to Tuscany.

 

01 - 20161125_160736.jpgy4mb_MGVNQH-n1FZH_zNHEFO9ASbFJ5eWnshoGiT

02 - 20161125_160743.jpgy4mriPm3AP7XJMDXlxq6lNvUda2E2L83bd1dcOJ1

03 - 20161125_160727.jpgy4mCprnUXNmjfU44SIp_g4n553PXluKMwijrbmUj

04 - 20161125_160708.jpgy4mAzMobRFKAjKB83xlPImY_li8c8W09xuNqjUO1

05 - 20161125_160701.jpgy4mP2k7mhAU-fPqqWhGu64QbAfOidKDuauCGwsBT

Cheers, Jack.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
Monday, December 19, 2016

 

It's been a while since my last post. It seemed me that little work was missing to complete the planking but other commitments prevented me from proceeding faster. Also what I am going to show today dates back almost a week ago but, due to various commitments, I find only today the time to post it.

 

The cause of these delay in the work are many, from a one week break due to my return to Milan to vote yes/no at a referendum to some problems associated with setting up and how go further with the next tasks once planking will be over. We will discuss in detail later.

 

Below two images of the completed planking (not yet finished). The whole is still firmly attached to the assembly building slip that I prepared, demonstrating really helpful so far. The fifth strake on the foreground side in the two photos seems broken and jointed but it is not right: by a strange nasty surprise of the wood grain, and also due to an oversight from me in the choice of the wood strip, it seems to be interrupted.

 

01 - 20161219_113801.jpgy4mDAcPdw4czBlhTi5vr79fuCYNAeAGtFMVJu8Vf

02 - 20161219_113805.jpgy4mi0DxZtKQmLHAU3xn1mTJR4FVYjZzISPyQbpnH

I then proceeded to detach the hull and its internal structure from the building base. The next two images show better than words. In both pictures, but especially in the latter you can see a minor problem I had in the assembly of a strip aft: while bending the strip it splintered and then I had to stop it before reaching the end. Now the junction shows a moderate difference in height that I need to fill. This will take place later, during the refining of the shell. So finishing is the next field activity.

 

03 - 20161219_121654.jpgy4mONZJ7dPN5T5h2zjJEXOsZ_ZcGCTIrWeO7GpZQ

04 - 20161219_121707.jpgy4mGrWTAbfZQVeqO5OkN2y7N979bSS9BasoZAiLk

Finally now I could capsize the boat and give a look to the inside!

Also in the inner size of the hull there will be quite a cleanup job to run, even though I expected to face a worse situation.

The sequence here below shows how the various pieces that make up the internal skeleton are just stuck and not glued.

 

01 - 20161219_121717.jpgy4m4K2-z5-qpudVj27SY72IeOo3LvQPGvbvuLnQ-

02 - 20161219_121741.jpgy4muBt3HfhbSGvm_NIu1JYaGT6qOYHmUNoWY0vc8

03 - 20161219_121824.jpgy4maRnnw2XPFyRscjboPZAlomYzgIOIabgspR95x

Even the bulkheads are glued to the shell in a weak way. In fact, between the wooden planks and the bulkheads there is a plastic tape film, which should allow me to remove the bulkheads without special efforts.

 

04 - 20161219_121835.jpgy4merO7t309VPtcOP1p1eJYgI1-ARsJ43Nfy-_DD

05 - 20161219_121829.jpgy4mPwLS0K8fSX3a-y09287dULh-fY1g9IuLCAg3B

But now I must achieve the complete refinement of the outside hull.

 

Until next time, Jack.

 

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Tuesday, December 20, 2016
 
Today I do not feel to make wood dust for finishing the hull, so I did other.
 

I recovered the material of the first building slip, which is no longer usable, and I prepared the second building slip, which I hope will be really useful in a few days, when I'll start working inside the hull.
Making these components is always pretty fun, and this is still true for this one . . .
With this slip the model stays in its normal position.

 

The images that follow show the slip with an overall view and two detailed views.

 

01 - 20161220_174625.jpgy4m10PMVc8AP3ZHwTWKhkp6Zo35dUbLioQuj4-5p

02 - 20161220_174647.jpgy4my6sbJUl81lJltEa_TwveP9T6W07532DGOsUhE

03 - 20161220_174634.jpgy4m2QB-0Z8yDBVIrB1p58ca0YeYfb0kNX2eXeKRi

More images with the model lying at the basement, although the not yet removed skeleton severely limits the internal view of the hull.

 

04 - 20161220_174604.jpgy4mgC1Z5PL_i9kz3yWrCtihfYx4ZrpUlD7Swo46C

05 - 20161220_174540.jpgy4m5i69-bfO7r2ZXn8g4UfgoKMWzUMt59X8CHssE

06 - 20161220_174547.jpgy4mpOZcSj1iSfuygDNtvSyEMuIEori0eLR6d7zCx

Best wishes to all of you and Merry Christmas, Happy 2017 and happy holidays, Jack.

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Monday, December 26, 2016

 

In recent days, I proceeded to finish the hull on the external side, taking a special care to the bow and stern areas. The walnut wood is quite hard to work with, ergo was sometimes necessary to use "hard methods". Now it's approaching the moment to remove the bulkheads in order to be able to work inside the hull, first with a cleaning and finishing job, later installing the +/-30 planned ribs.

 

A first top view of the inside of the boat:

 

01 - 20161222_085530.jpg

y4m3Hf6DM9vztEVInVJ_pMKj5KvUSexDQNzFmS01

The external planking finished with sanding blocks and sandpaper.

 

02 - 20161224_173914.jpg

y4mhZc3jzzsYwbuV4NB64cs5rwpTjoM4l36x_QJn

03 - 20161224_173923.jpg

y4m_hY0Q54k1Ug_G-yRATn8ZQ2m-QJ7vCpoW7Z6F

Then I applied a couple of coats of very diluted stain, which has changed the color tone of the original wood, making it slightly more reddish. Operation that I know will be useless because the outside will be painted black, but in my heart I could not bear the many different colors of the strips for many weeks or months . . .

 

To finish, a final sanding and a coat of very diluted PVA glue to fix the dye.

 

04 - 20161225_114716.jpg

y4mv-CGAleKwJaNhOzsYiymCqav4VzUN9cNCS1Z0

05 - 20161225_114755.jpg

y4mz8jjuDBEFRR1a29iaXU6r4luT888ADiI6mblo

See you next time, Jack.

 

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Sunday, January 1st, 2017

 

The new year had a good start . . and, to be honest, I also finished the old one quite well.

 

Yesterday I was on the seaside, but when I was back I could spend a couple of hours working around the Gajeta. More precisely, I proceeded to remove the bulkheads that served to build around them the planking. Planking that I want to remember, was glued quite weakly to the bulkheads, placing between the bulkhead and the plank a film of masking tape.

 

I had still some doubts about the term "weak" because, having no previous experience, I could not know what I was going to meet. Would it be a simple task or not ? In the Maristella's project the kit manufacturer foresaw some diagonal cuts on the bulkheads, cuts designed to be completed with a cutter knife or similar tool to remove the central bulkhead area and allow operating easily, but it was to be proved in practice. I therefore prepared various tools and different approaches. Anyway I almost immediately realized that it was enough to appropriately manage the bulkheads to remove them very easily without the need of any tools. Perfect.

 

For safety I left two central bulkheads still stuck just to make sure that the hull doesn't collapse or distorce. Then the work left was to remove the excess glue where there originally was the bulkhead. Here too the operation was quite simple: I used the mini drill with a spherical grinding tool and a bit of patience. Finally, a smoothing task, albeit provisional, with sandpaper.

 

Before removing the remaining two bulkheads I thought to add some strips of strong wood in three hull points to assure me that the "shell" will not change shape. These strips, simply glued with PVA will be kept until I'll finish the installation of the internal frames. I don't know until when . .

 

01 - 20170101_104331.jpg

y4mJGFwrap_SyULpavpb0M_kmdikVkSEp9XtlE51

02 - 20170101_104323.jpg

y4mqMk05JOwAwDLWMQDZkToWhxFB91O2IehTXYX8

03 - 20170101_104316.jpg

y4mITCqW8mbcsklQU24aBk920IGZTu306pypm7GA

I intentionally left the glue excess left after I removed the last two bulkheads to show what it looks like the inside of the "nutshell" and giving so an idea of the cleaning work that I had to do. Today I'll try to further clean up the inner hull and then . . . I will begin a new phase, that must be carefully planned and set up.

 

04 - 20170101_104339.jpg

y4mm3eyoyLOzU_gwTj1HsX0uvrOmTGanHztM5J2Q

A cordial greeting and a sincere Happy 2017 to all of you, Jack.

 

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