clarkt
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I have used western red cedar as blocking and backing, as between bulkheads, but only if it is to be covered with something else. As far as I'm concerned, its only good quality is that it's easy to sand. And, of course, it's readily available. However, there is another cedar species that I find very useful. Port Orford cedar is not very strong, has a light yellow color that is objectionable and it smells bad when you cut it. But it can be turned or cut down to about .060" and will stay absolutely straight forever. So for yards especially (if painted), and other slender spars, I think it is ideal.
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I have tried a couple of things to realistically simulate unfinished, unpainted wood. Using an unusual piece of teak, which was sort of grey brown then shaded with Age-it-easy grey and brown gave a weathered look to the exterior planks on a caravel. I also used a piece of teak which was more the yellowish brown you usually see, shaded with just Age-it-easy brown, which gave a less weathered look, but still quite acceptable, on planks, masts and yards on a nao. Now, I'm using some myrtle, some of which has very little grain and is sort of grey, which I've been using for oars, blocks and casks/barrels to simulate oak. On my current build, an 18th century merchantman, I planked the deck with holly that was then stained with a very thin mixture of brown and black acrylic paint and water brushed on and immediately wiped off with damp paper towel. It is a pretty dirty look but I'm happy with it. You can also use an ink eraser to lighten some high traffic areas, like around the helm for example. To answer your question, I think brownish grey is the best color for a weathered, unfinished look.
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
clarkt replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Heartiest congratulations. Your posts are as helpful to me as any other reference. Thank you very much. Clark
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