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About clarkt

  • Birthday 09/13/1948

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  • Location
    Astoria, Oregon
  • Interests
    history, reading, brewing

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  1. Really like your colors and these are the best sails I've seen. We all know how difficult they are.
  2. I have used western red cedar as blocking and backing, as between bulkheads, but only if it is to be covered with something else. As far as I'm concerned, its only good quality is that it's easy to sand. And, of course, it's readily available. However, there is another cedar species that I find very useful. Port Orford cedar is not very strong, has a light yellow color that is objectionable and it smells bad when you cut it. But it can be turned or cut down to about .060" and will stay absolutely straight forever. So for yards especially (if painted), and other slender spars, I think it
  3. I have tried a couple of things to realistically simulate unfinished, unpainted wood. Using an unusual piece of teak, which was sort of grey brown then shaded with Age-it-easy grey and brown gave a weathered look to the exterior planks on a caravel. I also used a piece of teak which was more the yellowish brown you usually see, shaded with just Age-it-easy brown, which gave a less weathered look, but still quite acceptable, on planks, masts and yards on a nao. Now, I'm using some myrtle, some of which has very little grain and is sort of grey, which I've been using for oars, blocks and cas
  4. Heartiest congratulations. Your posts are as helpful to me as any other reference. Thank you very much. Clark
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