clarkt
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Everything posted by clarkt
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Also try Rio Grande Tools and Equipment, especially for a large selection of quality files and pliers. Customer service is also good.
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Darcy Lever says on page 24 of The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor: "The Laniard is well smeared with Grease..." The Hermione photo in this thread seems to me to be the most accurate look. That is, darker than running rigging, but not as dark as the shrouds. I think the really good replicas, Hermione, Endeavour and even Surprise, from the Master and Commander film, all thoroughly researched for accuracy, are very good sources for model builders.
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Panamerican Tool (panamericantool.com) has very good quality bits, used in the aviation industry. But these days I'm mostly using the carbide bits, available at Amazon.
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On my last model I began using Americana Decor Chalky Finish acrylics. Previously, I was using my wife's artist acrylics, mostly Windsor and Newton. The artist paints, though labelled "matte" are not flat enough in my opinion. The chalky finish paints can easily be mixed in small amounts, leave no brush marks, dry quickly and are fairly durable. Touch-ups don't show on original paint. The black, which I use a lot, is particularly forgiving. They were, until recently, available in 4 ounce jars, but now they only have 8 ounce. Still, the jars seal well and I have had no drying out or deterioration in about six years.
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I have switched from solid solder/ soldering iron to paste solder and a small torch with a fireproof pad, all available from Rio Grande jewelry supply. To me it is easier to join the small rings and eyebolts. By the way, Rio Grande is a great source for tools and some materials. They charge for their (large) catalog, but it's worth it. They have a great selection of files and pliars, for example.
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I have used western red cedar as blocking and backing, as between bulkheads, but only if it is to be covered with something else. As far as I'm concerned, its only good quality is that it's easy to sand. And, of course, it's readily available. However, there is another cedar species that I find very useful. Port Orford cedar is not very strong, has a light yellow color that is objectionable and it smells bad when you cut it. But it can be turned or cut down to about .060" and will stay absolutely straight forever. So for yards especially (if painted), and other slender spars, I think it is ideal.
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I have tried a couple of things to realistically simulate unfinished, unpainted wood. Using an unusual piece of teak, which was sort of grey brown then shaded with Age-it-easy grey and brown gave a weathered look to the exterior planks on a caravel. I also used a piece of teak which was more the yellowish brown you usually see, shaded with just Age-it-easy brown, which gave a less weathered look, but still quite acceptable, on planks, masts and yards on a nao. Now, I'm using some myrtle, some of which has very little grain and is sort of grey, which I've been using for oars, blocks and casks/barrels to simulate oak. On my current build, an 18th century merchantman, I planked the deck with holly that was then stained with a very thin mixture of brown and black acrylic paint and water brushed on and immediately wiped off with damp paper towel. It is a pretty dirty look but I'm happy with it. You can also use an ink eraser to lighten some high traffic areas, like around the helm for example. To answer your question, I think brownish grey is the best color for a weathered, unfinished look.
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
clarkt replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Heartiest congratulations. Your posts are as helpful to me as any other reference. Thank you very much. Clark
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