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  1. Thanks, very fiddely especially the tops. Trying out something new now... usually i paint everything but this photoetch burnishing fluid might save me some time fot the small stuff. Just clean carefully with aceton first and the dip a few minutes in the fluid.
  2. Finally started to do some work on my Granado. I want to deckplank her so she dont look so rough. However, things need to be done in the right order so I had a crack at the mortar houses. Its abit fidelly work but now I have the basis in place. These are not supposed to be glued so you can take them apart and get ready for battle. I didnt read the instructions so did some mistakes. I also had to level out the deck so it is the hight to the gunports where the same.
  3. I have my own studio and been shooting people for more than 10 years. But for photographing your boat here is my first tip which will basically cost you 4 euros but improve your photos to almost professional level. Buy a large piece of white paper, place it on a table which is very close to a window. Thats it... you can even use your phone to photograph. If u want to have some variation, buy a black paper as well. A static model doesnt need complicated lighting. But it needs lots of light so all details are visable. So make sure to be very near a large window.
  4. This week I been working on all deck details... Just dry fitting. The kit supply wheel didnt look good so I made an upgrade. Plenty of mtrl in the kit Added a few extra details here than the plans. Fiddeling... Painting is a question... I will probably go with a lot of black.
  5. Tonights project... 18 gunports. Decided to work with a strip of boxwood instead of the supplied walnut. A bit easier to work on with these fiddling pieces.
  6. I havent worked on my Snake for quite some time due to many other projects. Will hopefully finish a few things on her now. Decks in maple completed and scraped!
  7. I dont want to turn my buildlog into a long discussion on planking methods, but here are some of the things that has improved the result for me. This is the 5th hull i am building so I have gone from boiling water and thousands of pins to a much better and faster strategy thanks to this forum. But I got still much to learn and I dont claim to be any expert in this. So here are my main tips: 1) First planking is mostly about shape. PVA, plankbender and pins works for me. I dont care how the result looks. It needs to set a strong base and the shape needs to be formed right 2) Carefully select and sort out what stripes to use and when. Dont pick them randomly. The colour and grain will effect the end result. Avoid getting your hull look like a checkers board in places that are visable. There is always the option to buy better stripes or change the wood. It comes to a cost but considering how much time you will spend on a wooden ship i think its worth to work in good material. I will likely never build a ship in walnut if the wood is not painted. 3) Cut short stripes rather than try to cover full lengths. Its more accurate to the scale and also easier to work with. 4) Pay alot of time to shape the strip. Testfit sand testfit sand testfit sand. 5) Edgesanding with a rund inner edge. This will make it easier to avoid any kind of gap. 6) Prebending (aka Chuck method). I use a heatgun and a simple rig with clamps . I just put the plank in place and make a mark where the gap is widest to know where to bend. 7) CA glue. I know some people think it messy but once you get the hang of it you will be much quicker and there will be no pinholes. I use it together with warm water which makes it easier to stick fast and to immidiately to clean. CA should be fresh for best effect but with water i think even old bottles work. 😎 Finally its sanding time again.
  8. Short update on the planking. Need to trim all gunports before can move up....
  9. We have all heard about the Chuck method for planking.... it was abit to hard for me so I decided to come up with a more simple version... I give u the Vane method... PM me if u want a lesson. I only charge 1$ per hour 😛
  10. Uk has always had great wellsorted hobbyshops, especially whne it comes to ships. However, after leaving EU you have to roughly count for 25% extra on the price. I still order from UK if its not available inside the EU. But buying the latest kit from Tamiya is better to find locally. Vanguards is also a special case, since its a small business with basically no competition in its market segment. Perhaps not for everyone, but if you want the best... you got the best :-). Sphinx looks very tempting, but I have to finalize some of my ongoing kits before I buy another.
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