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Here is a book on the subject aimed at model builders. Might be a good place to start. https://www.amazon.com/Photo-Etching-Workshop-Practice/dp/1854862375/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=photo+etching&qid=1559513506&s=books&sr=1-2

https://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/ https://makezine.com/2017/08/08/photo-etching-and-soldering-your-own-brass-model-parts/ Here are a couple of websites that will get you started in the right direction.

If it is a knock off it might be from the Bluejacket/Laughing Whale model of the Spray. http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/spray.htm

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You can run a metal detector over the trunk before cutting it to find nails etc. stuck in the wood. A cheap one from Walmart would work fine for this.

https://www.foxnews.com/science/sonar-anomaly-leads-to-discovery-of-500-year-old-shipwreck-in-north-sea

https://www.foxnews.com/science/829-year-old-viking-style-shipwreck-reveals-its-secrets

Found this info at Newman Tools website The Unified National Miniature Thread Series (miniature metric thread) was accepted as a new thread series in 1958 and was intended for general-purpose use in instruments, miniature mechanisms, and for jewelry and watches. The use of this series is recommended for all new products in place of the old standard miniature and the many improvised thread sizes still in existence. We will continue to supply the ongoing demand for the old standard miniature screw threads. The UNM thread series has fourteen miniature metric thread sizes that are systematically distributed from .30mm to 1.40mm in diameter and supplements the Unified and American Thread Series that begins at .060 inch diameter. The diameter-pitch combinations provide for maximum strength against stripping and for excellent manufacturability and interchangeability. Technical data contained in this site is taken from Fed-Std-H28/5 and ASME B1.10M-1997. Designation Major Dia Pitch mm Approximate Threads per inch .30 UNM .30mm (.0118) 0.080 318 .35 UNM .35mm (.0138) 0.090 282 .40 UNM .40mm (.0157) 0.100 254 .45 UNM .45mm (.0177) 0.100 254 .50 UNM .50mm (.0197) 0.125 203 .55 UNM .55mm (.0217) 0.125 203 .60 UNM .60mm (.0236) 0.150 169 .70 UNM .70mm (.0276) 0.175 145 .80 UNM .80mm (.0315) 0.200 127 .90 UNM .90mm (.0354) 0.225 113 1.00 UNM 1.00mm (.0394) 0.250 102 1.10 UNM 1.10mm (.0433) 0.250 102 1.20 UNM 1.20mm (.0472) 0.250 102 1.40 UNM 1.40mm (.0551) 0.300 85 Common Old Standard Miniature Instrument Threads Designation Major Dia Threads per inch 00-90 0.047 90 00-96 0.047 96 00-112 0.047 112 000-120 0.034 120 0000-160 0.021 160 Miniature Taps CUT THREADS FORMED THREADS THREAD SIZE UP TO 2/3 MAJ DIA * 2/3 TO 1 1/2 MAJ DIA * 1 1/2 TO 3 MAJ DIA * Min Max Min Max Min Max 1.40 UNM 0.0439 0.0455 0.0450 0.0471 0.0460 0.0481 0.0498 1.20 UNM 0.0379 0.0393 0.0388 0.0406 0.0397 0.0415 0.0438 1.10 UNM 0.0340 0.0354 0.0349 0.0367 0.0358 0.0376 0.0397 1.00 UNM 0.0300 0.0314 0.0309 0.0327 0.0319 0.0337 0.0358 0.90 UNM 0.0270 0.0283 0.0279 0.0295 0.0287 0.0304 0.0318 0.80 UNM 0.0241 0.0252 0.0248 0.0263 0.0256 0.0270 0.0283 0.70 UNM 0.0211 0.0221 0.0217 0.0231 0.0224 0.0237 0.0248 0.60 UNM 0.0181 0.0190 0.0187 0.0198 0.0193 0.0204 0.0212 0.55 UNM 0.0170 0.0178 0.0176 0.0186 0.0181 0.0191 0.0195 0.50 UNM 0.0150 0.0158 0.0156 0.0166 0.0161 0.0171 0.45 UNM 0.0141 0.0147 0.0145 0.0154 0.0149 0.0158 0.40 UNM 0.0121 0.0127 0.0125 0.0134 0.0130 0.0138 0.35 UNM 0.0105 0.0111 0.0109 0.0117 0.0113 0.0121 0.30 UNM 0.0089 0.0095 0.0093 0.0100 0.0096 0.0104 00-90 0.0358 0.0380 0.0374 0.0395 0.0385 0.0405 0.0426 00-96 0.0371 0.0385 0.0381 0.0400 0.0390 0.0409 0.0429 00-112 0.0386 0.0398 0.0394 0.0410 0.0402 0.0419 0.0435 000-120 0.0261 0.0273 0.0270 0.0280 0.0277 0.0293 0.0306 0000-160 0.0151 0.0160 0.0157 0.0170 0.0164 0.0176 0.0184

Can't find a website. Saw a set on eBay and wondered how good they were.

Anyone have any experience with this brand.

Which kind of glue sort of depends on if you can clamp the plank in place. If you have room to clamp than a good white glue like Elmer's Glue All will work fine although druxey's comments about pre-bending the plank is also a good idea. If you can't clamp the work than you will need mechanical fastenings like nails to hold everything together until the glue can dry. Another way is to use CA on a few areas to hold the plank tight and use PVA or white glue for the other areas. In addition if possible always glue the planks edge to edge. That is the strongest bond you can get in gluing planks.

Drop me a PM. I have a Midwest Sharpie Schooner kit in my stash that I have decided not to build. If you are interested we can make a deal for it.

I decided to try my hand at using an airbrush. Didn't want to spend a lot of money so was looking for cheap one to get started with. Found one on Amazon called a Pointzero PZ-276 that looks like a Badger 350. For $10 delivered I figured I couldn't to far wrong. I have read Don' Airbrush Tips and his review of the Badger 350 was a big help. I also looked at his review of the Harbor freight knock off of the 350 and so was a little concerned that what I was getting might not be very usable. I got the pz-276 and pleasantly surprised. Immediately took it apart to see how well it was made. I was surprised, for a cheap airbrush the fit and finish was really good. Haven't tried it out yet but think it will work ok. Anyone else have any experience with this brand? I would like to hear from anyone that has used one and get some idea of what I can expect.

Air dried or kiln dried wood should be allowed to sit in your work area for several months to acclimate to the humidity in your area. If you use wood that is to dry it will absorb moisture from the air and if it is to wet it will lose moisture. In either case you can get movement. Let is sit for awhile to adjust to your local conditions and you will have fewer problems.

I assume that is the main sail so it would be a ringtail sail. A ringtail is a studding sail for a for and aft sail.