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About grsjax

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Big Island, Hawaii
  • Interests
    Small boats, Steam Navy

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  1. I have been getting FB ads for Dry-Dock Models & Parts. Checked their website and it looks like they sell blocks, deadeyes, nails and rope. No kits listed. Anyone dealt with this vendor? If so I would like to know if they are reliable and if their products are as good as they look in the pictures.
  2. Using a hollow ground planer blade in a table saw you can cut pieces as thin a .04" thick. A zero tolerance insert and a precision fence is required. Using a sliding table is better. Still have a large kerf but for some common woods that isn't a big problem.
  3. Looks like a good drill press but does it have heavy duty quill bearings able to take a side load during milling and does it have a solid or hollow column? Both of these issues are going to be important in doing any kind of milling.
  4. The same eBay seller makes a sliding table for the Dremel saw.
  5. Depends on the scale. For small scales I go down to 320. Larger scales I use 240.
  6. Taking a short break to do my taxes. Uncle Sam gets testy if I am late with my tribute.
  7. On ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Historic-American-Merchant-Marine-Survey-Volume-1-ship-boat-blueprints-plans/363317650834 Not mine, just thought others here might want to take a look at this.
  8. I have never had a problem with the Dremel locking pin. I have a couple of older model tools and perhaps they were built better than the newer ones. I also have a Dremel cordless 7.2 volt tool that works very well. I like the adjustable speed of the Dremel. Mine goes from 5000 to 35000rpm giving a good working range for different uses.
  9. Finished putting the frame together The process of building the frame was pretty straight forward. Clamping was a challenge for some of the stringers as there is very little room to get a clamp in. Ended up using mini bulldog clamps and pieces of scrap to get everything set. Only ran into one issue and that was with the sponson rail (part 12) it is a two piece part that meets in the middle at the bow. It wanted to flex slightly into a shallow peak instead of making a smooth curve. This is a problem that can be solved by placing a short piece of stringer on top of the battens at
  10. Time to get down to building this model. First step is to build up the basic ladder frame that is the foundation for everything else. These are the parts of the frame. The transom and frames attach to the side rails. The assembly is almost self aligning but care has to be taken that everything is straight before gluing things up. First step is to glue the transom (6) to the transom frame (5) and frames 2 and 3 together. Next the frames are attached to the rails. The notches in the frames are cut so that a minimum of sanding is needed to get things to go together smoo
  11. The kit consists of 5 sheets of laser cut wood, 2 of mahogany veneer, 2 of 1.5mm plywood and 1 of 3mm basswood (I think it is basswood). There is a 19 page booklet of instructions with numerous photographs. This is one area where I think there could be an improvement by adding some detail drawings. Not a big problem but it would make a few things a bit clearer. There is also a display stand of laser cut 3mm ply and a small bag of additional small parts and decals.
  12. The seaflea is a 10 foot class A hydroplane. Osborn Models, mostly known for model trains, used to produce a line of static and RC model boat kitss of which this is one. I also have their 1:24 scale Miss Canada III and Mirror Dingy models which I hope to do build logs on in the future. Derek at Osborn Models has been a real help and tells me they have a few of their kits still in stock so if you are interested contact him at dosborn1210@rogers.com. I think he should start up production again but that is just my selfish desire to build more of these interesting boats. The kit is
  13. Depends on what finish you are going to use. If tung oil is going to be the finish than it should work to fill the pores as well. If you plan on painting the wood than you need to find a compatible filler to use.
  14. Getting back to mouldable plastics. The chemical name is Polycaprolactone. Put that in the search area on Amazon and it brings up a lot of products. 8oz (224 grams) for US$10 is about the best deal I see there.
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