Ilhan Gokcay
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Everything posted by Ilhan Gokcay
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I’ve made the masts and spars from limewood dowel. Tapered them on a “V” shaped jig. I’ve left the mastheads untapered, filed this portion square and glued thick strips on it. Then I formed these blocks and simulated sheaves by drilling holes. Main yard and mizzen yard are from two parts lashed together. I slightly flattened the coincident area of the two parts. Other yards are tapered at both ends. Next task will be to fit the rudder still having the opportunity to work upside down. I formed the rudder from three parts.
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I’ve bent the frames of the windows of the after castle same as I’ve done before and cut them in 1 mm thicknesses and glued to their places. At this stage as long as I can still work upside down I’ve taken the advantage and finished the stand using brass tubes sliding into each other and 2 mm steel rod.
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I’ve bent the frames of the windows of the after castle same as I’ve done before and cut them in 1 mm thicknesses and glued to their places. At this stage as long as I can still work upside down I’ve taken the advantage and finished the stand using brass tubes sliding into each other and 2 mm steel rod.
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For the deck of the after castle I have enclosed the area with 2x5 pear strips, then put the deck from 1 mm ply inside this area and planked with 1x5mm maple strips. Caulking, nails and joggling are made same as the main deck.
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Achieved a small progress. The capping rails from 1x5 mm pear are shaped onsite using the iron and glued to their places.
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Finished the hawse holes and the bitt. The ends of the bitt are projecting through the planking. Also glued the stanchions to the inside of the bulwark.
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For the deck plank nails I’ve used the same wood as the deck which is maple. I’ve cut 1x1mm strips with a blade and tapered the ends manually and stick them to the 0.5 mm holes and secured with CA. I’ve cut the ends and sanded the deck .
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It’s time to fix the deck. Again I used white glue (PVA) and screwed the deck until the glue had dried as there is an adverse slope in two directions. Deck planks will be maple strips (1x5 mm). First I shaped the waterway with the aid of water and heat and glued in place. Then I started to plank at both sides of the center line. For the caulking I colored the sides of the planks with pencil (2B). This method seems to be sufficient at this scale. The ends of the planks are joggled. For cutting the waterway a homemade minature chisel was used. This is made of old dull knifes.
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I’ve taken some photos at this stage and kept building Next I’ve cut the mortices on the futtock riders to suit the wales and also shaped the outer contour. Here I used a thin epoxy stick (1x2 mm) ( cut from PCB ) having sandpaper glued on one face. I’m not going to fix the riders yet, I will do this much later.
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Planked the inside of the bulwarks. I used here white glue and clamped the thin planking all the way in order to prevent warpage. Next I fitted the wales at the deck level and above it.
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I shaped the futtock riders from 3x4 pear strip before putting the wales. So I can close fit them to the hull shape. Until assembly in order not to lose their position I stick them on a double sided tape in the order they would have on the hull. At this point I removed the bulkhead structure for bulwarks as there is no need to keep it any more. After gluing the sternpost to its position I moved to the wales. For the wales I used 1x3 mm pear strip and trimmed the ends little by little to match to the stem and stern without any gap. I glued them exactly on the planking which is 3 mm wide.
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I’ve cut out the portholes at the poop and planked the counter with 2x5 mm pear strips. The inner frames of the portholes are 1x5 pear bent in a mold with a round soldering iron tip. For the curved planking of the forecastle I made a packet of short strips of 0,5x6 pear and I shaped this packet by sanding. But after releasing the packet every plank needed a further fine adjustment one by one. Then I finished the second planking of the forecastle and poop.
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Near to the deck level I stopped to plank and completed the passage of the aftercastle. Also planked the front face of the aftercastle with 0,5x5 mm pear. The beam at the stern is 5x5 mm pear wood, fitted and glued in place. Then I glued bulkheads of 6 mm plywood for the stern and counter just above this beam. Completed these works I proceeded with the planking and for this I screwed the bulkhead structure above the deck level in his place. At the deck level there are scupper holes on the bulwark. As the inner planking will be visible at these areas I used here pear strips instead of the lime strips. Before fitting this plank I cut out the scupper holes roughly. Then finished the first planking again with lime wood. Here I would like to take attention to the sequence of the work done. Planning in advance always pays off.
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For the 0,5 planks I used Pattex contact glue. As said before there are groups of three planks of 5 mm and one narrow plank of 3 mm. The wider planks are tapered as calculated. The 1x3 mm wales will exactly be glued upon the 3 mm planks. I applied the contact glue on both surfaces and waited for approx. 10 minutes then pressed firmly. Each time I glued the group of 3 wide planks and one narrow plank. Again I bend the 0,5 mm planks where necessary by soaking and heating before gluing.
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