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Ilhan Gokcay

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Everything posted by Ilhan Gokcay

  1. Thanks for the responses. I don't remember exactly but I think I've read somewhere that the jib sails and staysails replaced the spritmats topsails. So that they are not used at the same time. I do also suspect that and want to be sure.
  2. Hello, My question is about the rigging of the 17th century. Is it wrong to say if there is a spritsail topmast then there is no staysail and jibsail. Both can not be at the same time. Appreciate any response. Ilhan
  3. Hi Ron, you're welcome. I like your model and build log very much. I'm glad that you repost the old log. And here I resume to save the new photos. Ilhan
  4. Hi Pat, thanks. I like MSW. I've uploaded also my two old build logs. I hope to see MSW as it was before. Ilhan
  5. Blackened the brass parts and assembled the rudder.
  6. Finished the eyebolts and chain plates. The main links of the chain plates are chain. For all the joining I used silver soldering. At this stage, I left the chain plates slightly spaced as I will put the deadeyes later after blackening.
  7. Finished the knights and their blocks from pear strip. And belaying pins from 1,5mm dowel.
  8. For the triangular deadeyes, I have modified circular deadeyes in several stages as seen on the photos. These are used at mizen mast and foremast.
  9. Finished the cleats using 1x3 and 2x3 mm pear strips. The securing pins are 0,5mm.
  10. Finished the channels from 3mm pear sheet and pinned/glued (white glue) to the hull side.
  11. Little progress again. Finished the capstan, hatch and the pump. The capstan and pump are from lime wood. For the pump I drilled dowels through and finished with round files.
  12. Finished the ladders on the deck using ready parts from stock. As the scale of these ladders are ok, with little modification and adjustment they fitted to their places.
  13. Very little progress. Finished the blocks in the bulwark and hawse holes.
  14. Finished the top. To build a symmetrical, proper top first I’ve built a guide and constructed the part on this guide. The first ring has been bent from 2x2 strip. The second ring has been cut from sheet. The perpendiculars are from 2x3 strip. I do not go into detail here too much as the photos show the steps clearly.
  15. A small progress. Finished the tabernacles from lime wood.
  16. I’m making the deck of the forecastle. Base is from 1 mm ply. The sides are 3x5 mm pear strip, edges grooved 1 mm to accept the ply. To form the camber of the deck I made a plug. Planked the underside of the ply with 1 mm maple strips, two of them layed cross and the rest longitudinal. Right away I clamped the deck on the plug and left the glue to dry a couple of days. Fortunately it kept its shape very well. Next I glued the frame of pear strips and , planked the upper side. Joggling, caulking and nails are made in the same way as before.
  17. Continuing with the rudder, next step will be the metal parts. I’ve cut the stripes from 0,5 mm brass sheet holding the sheet between two ply plates. Then in order to get uniform 2 mm wide bands I clamped again the stripes between two sheets upright and filed carefully both edges. Gudgeon and pintle are from 2 mm brass tube and 1,2 mm brass rod. I’ve silver soldered them to the stripes. Then bend the parts on a wooden plug using a flat faced needle nose plier to have sharp edges. Also drilled the holes on the plug.I trial fitted everything and drilled also the rudder and stern. Put the parts aside to be blackened later.
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