ioannis

Hi everyone
 
Today I got a chance to start on the cockpit area which is located in the middle of the huge cabin and leads down through the companionway below decks.  The real ship has striped cushions and a large folding dining table in the cockpit, which is perfect for entertaining guests.
 
In order to simulate the striped cushions, the best I could come up with was to use part of the barcode of an Uncle Toby's muesli-bar box.    Not exactly like the real cushions, but, pretty close and not too shabby at this teeny tiny size.
 
I hope you enjoy these photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick 

Im  surpised  when i saw  your first steps it looked like a turtle shell ,but on your next photoes ,soon after sanding it looks beautiful 
Im impressed about your building method . 
 

Im pulling a chair closer you
Look forward to your next update

Your method and generally your work is accurate as surgeon.
keep walking Niels

Well patrick ,,from now on i call you the microbuilder
Excelent!

Your method and generally your work is accurate as surgeon.
keep walking Niels

Hi Nils
 
Thanks for the update. Nice progress! I like the idea of being able to hang the plans, so that it's easily studied.
 
Also, I never realised how big the ship must have been untiI I saw the scale sized figurine.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Update for forecastle- and first waist deck,
 
It all looks a bit rough in the moment, The front waist-deck was made to the card template and can now be removed for planking. Need to check the hights with the little 1:144 figurine
 
The forecastle deck will need the anchor tubes with suit taylored outlets to the bow sides fitted in, before it is planked( only about 2/3 of it`s area (pics will follow later on )
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
my little room for the rough work
 
 

 
I fixed a preliminary,horizontal  (loosenable) steel-rail, to which the drawing can be clipped (magnets)
 
 

 
The funnel arrangement in two groups provides the first class dining resaurant and lounges to go over the full width of the ship, this has been well accepted by the passengers, This design had also been adopted for the follower liners of the Norddeutscher Lloyd, and gave an unmistakenable silhouette for identification from the distance
 

 
three deck high, and over the ship`s width, the 1 st class dining saloon
 
 

 
the little white figure is used for determining the correct deck-highjts
 
 

 
here the deck curvature can be nicely seen
 
 

 
when clicking on this pic (to enlarge) the hand drawn frame distances on the drawing can be seen. I chose 26 frames over the ship`s length
 
 

Well patrick ,,from now on i call you the microbuilder
Excelent!

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

Well patrick ,,from now on i call you the microbuilder
Excelent!

Thanks Niels.
By the way i have  just red about the dramatic  end the ship had and how.... Rather than let the enemy capture  they ordered the ship to be scuttled using dynamite..

Thanks Niels.
By the way i have  just red about the dramatic  end the ship had and how.... Rather than let the enemy capture  they ordered the ship to be scuttled using dynamite..

Nice work .
Im watcing your steps closer

Paragon – a Modified Mayflower
Part 15 – Channels and Deadeyes
 
The channels were pretty straightforward – the hardest part was shaping the interior edge so that it laid properly against the hull.  The channels need to follow the curve of the hull for and aft, but also need to match the up and down slope of the hull.  This was accomplished by test fitting numerous times, then making very small adjustments until I was happy with the fit.  I made pegs of steel wire to hold the channels to the hull.  The support brackets above the channels are for appearances only.  Originally I had planned to drill and peg these, so I made them thicker than they should have been.  Too late to change them without serious rework.
 
          
 
          
 
          
 
The Mayflower had triangular deadeyes of two different sizes.  I gave some thought to producing them myself and even developed a couple of prototypes.  On further thought (and using my basic arithmetic skills) I realized the amount of effort (and time) it would take to produce the number needed – about 90 of them, in two different sizes.  So I contacted Chuck (Syren Company) and he made them as a custom order – I received them within a week! 
 
          
 
The lower deadeyes would be secured to the hull using chain, so I needed to strop the deadeyes to the chain.  I made up a simple jig to get this done.  I was able to get the deadeyes and chain set up pretty quickly, and I made eyebolts from copper wire for attaching the chains to the hull.
 
          
 
After blackening the copper parts I was ready to install the lower deadeyes.
 
          
 
          
 
I installed some fake masts so that I could mark off the run of the shrouds, using a line attached to the top of each mast.
 
          
 
I put some masking tape on the hull so that I didn’t need to mark the hull itself, and drilled through the masking tape at the appropriate marks.
 
          
 
I’m fairly happy with the results, but now that I’ve begun the standing rigging I have experienced some small problems that I would avoid next time.
 
My method of stropping to the chain was OK, but I needed to pay closer attention to getting the gap between the deadeye and the chain uniform.
 
The deadeyes turn very easily, which makes it hard to install the lanyards while keeping the deadeyes lined up.
 
          
 
The mast tops each have six small deadeyes, three to a side.  These deadeyes are for the shrouds to the top mast, but they also secure the rings that will hold the futtock shrouds.  To make these rings, I seized an appropriate piece of rope around a drill bit.  (The following photo is a little out of focus, but it’s the only one I have of the rings before installation).
 
          
 
The lines were run up the holes in the mast top for the deadeyes, then the lines were held in a spread position (not glued) to the railing of the mast top.
 
          
 
A deadeye was then glued to the spread lines.
 
          
 
After the glue was set, one side of the line was glued to the deadeye.
 
          
 
Then the opposite side was glued and trimmed when set.
 
          
 
The mast tops were temporarily fixed to the fore and main masts, and the three masts were temporarily stepped (because I was anxious to see how it looked after all the work).
 
         
 
The next post will address the completion of the masts, and will cover some miscellaneous details required for the rigging.
 

Patrick - I can't think of any new superlatives - wow!  Incredible work.

Carl, you got that right but sometimes you can’t help it.
 
Any way moving on.  The deck is now mounted to the hull and the cabin walls and cockpit rails are in. 
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

No,
general fixed pitch prop design on screw driven steamers around year 1897..
 
Nils

Well patrick ,,from now on i call you the microbuilder
Excelent!

The evil king is wrapping his cloak tightly around himself, to conceal his illicit affairs and his exuberant spending from his suffering people, below him (Muah ha ha ha...):

 
... and cats:

 
Apologies for the appalling quality of the photography.

Hi Farbror
 
The beakhead's looking really nice. Well done!
 
But, that centimetre deep gash sounds nasty. At least you can say with confidence that you've poured your blood, sweat and tears into the ship!!!
 
I hope it heals quickly.
 
All the best.
 
Patrick

Yes, it's that time of the year again.
 
If you're ready for more "rustic folk art" from the dampest, deepest, most fir infested parts of Sweden, then your friend Farbror Fartyg stands ready to deliver.
 
 
The stern castle is now planked and has railings.
 

 

 

 
 
Mmmm ... feels good to be back in business.
 
 
 
Bonus pic: This is why you should always dry your wood with the bark on.

Beakhead:
The really fun bit! 
This stuff was pretty straight forward - just shape a shapely piece of wood and then carve away.
 
If the lion sculptures adorning the beakheads of the 17th century war ships symbolized might, I'm not really sure what my fat cat symbolizes ... hmm ... comfiness, perhaps.
 

Thanks for the comments about the inner edges.  Chuck and Druxey are right.  The straight line of the inner frame pieces did not look right.  I added and shaped some pieces to follow the curve of the outer edge of the frames.  Now for the really small planking inside the frames.
Maury