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Maury S

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About Maury S

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    Maury S

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  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Current Build: C. Chase, Centerboard Schooner
    Recent Builds:
    Anchor Hoy
    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-Chuck/

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.

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  1. Might the technique also work with black monofilament line that many of us use as a result of Ed's comments? (I don't have a car snow brush). Maury
  2. Spars: I'm building up a punch list of items that need attention on the hull, and in the mean time, working on the spars. The for and main masts have been tapered, shaped and cut to height. The main boom is shown tapered. Maximum diameter is about 1/3 from the heel. Taper is about 20% at both ends. It was planed to eight-sided and then rounded except at the heel where the jaws attach and near the end where a couple of cheek blocks go. So far, each spar takes about 1 hour to complete the tapering and shaping. Another boom, the 2 gaffs and top mast to go. Maury
  3. Bow sprit irons: The two bands at the end of the bowsprit are made from .016" (3/4" @ scale) soft copper sheet. I cemented the sheet to a scrap of 1/16" ? scrap plywood and parted off a strip 1/16" (3") for the bands. I drilled holes in the strip 1/2 the circumference of the BS apart and cut it a hair longer than the circumference (trial and error dictated this). I also drilled a hole near the end of the copper strip and cut it off for the ring on the iron. I then filed one edge of the little tab to fit into the holes on the strip. The "iron hoop" has not yet been shaped to round yet. After shaping the hoop to roughly round, making sure the ends mate well, I applied silver solder paste in the holes, inserted the tabs, applied solder to the butted ends of the hoop, applied heat with the butane torch and hoped the pieces stayed put with the gust from the torch. Once I was satisfied the technique worked, I repeated the process for the second iron. The one on the left (horizontal) is for the BS shrouds and the right (vertical) is for the stay and bobstay. A little stretching / rounding over a home-made mandrel and inserted over the end of the bowsprit. The BS has not been cut to length yet but it ends close to the hoop on the right. I'll pickle and blacken them next time I do blackening. Maury
  4. ...Searcher, In the Chesapeake Bay, they had both off-center and through-keel centerboards well into the mid 1800's. The Chapelle plans show a centerboard 16' long and 5.' high. I doubt it was lowered more than the full width (5' + / -) or as you say That would have given plenty of leeway resistance, and would keep the top edge of the centerboard contained within the trunk. for maximum strength. From the pivot point, that would mean an angle of rotation of about 15 degrees. When measured from the chain connection at the top of the CB to the slot at the deck, the variation in the angle of the chain is only about 6 degrees. A shorter and wider CB would alter these angles. There is no winch arrangement shown on the profile, so for C. Chase, the alternative is a Burton Pendant attached to the main mast. Thanks for your interest and your comments. Maury
  5. I really like the tool rack shown in the video. My only suggestion is the entire rack could be tilted (forward) maybe 15 - 20 degrees. It would make it easier to lift-out and replace the tools. 😀Maury
  6. Bowsprit: The bowsprit is 31' - 10" long and 20' is outboard of the knightheads. Bowsprits of the era were tapered 50% from the gammon iron out to the the end of the pole. The bottom of the pole was not tapered. Tapering is pretty straight forward marking a line of taper from full size (12") to 6" on three sides (all of the vertical taper occurs on the top). The circular sander was use to achieve an even taper. The spar is square out to near the billet, then 8-sided for about 4', then 16-sided and eventually round. Following is a picture on the jig used to cut the square to 8-sides. The top is kept flat. the jack stays? were put in place and need some cleaning up. Really tough to hold them in place while glue dries. Maury
  7. Frank, Is it true fiddle blocks are stronger than a double block since the strain is placed on two pins rather than one? Maury
  8. Not much work done with the holidays coming up. I worked on the rocker arm / brakes / purchase rod and purchase for the windlass. Soldering some of the smallest pieces was a challenge...particularly the little tubes at the end of the brakes. Getting all the pieces lined up with the gears on the windlass will be a challenge. It is set on a piece of scrap about the size of the pawl bitt. Maury
  9. I use cardboard tubes or 1 1/4" PVC pipe of assorted heights, glued to a flat base. Vertical storage takes up much less space on my limited work bench. Cost = $0. Maury
  10. Toni, I think the clinker planked boat is a great idea. Few of us have done one and this will be a tremendous opportunity for us to learn some different techniques. You've got a great set of plans, even if some modifications might be necessary. No pressure to match your project to the model since there are questions of provence. She's a lovely boat. Looking forward to the saga. Maury
  11. To change the blade: UNPLUG the saw. unscrew and remove the insert. Tip the saw to the left. Use a wrench to loosen the nut on the blade. Hand twist off the nut. remove the large ring. If necessary, remove the arbor ring (depends on the hole in the blade). Remove blade. reverse process to install the new blade. Maury
  12. From the plans there is decorative scroll on the stem piece but no trail board. Two cheeks curving up to the billet at the end of the stem, and a rail above the noble wood going out to the top of the stem with a light intermediate rail below that. Between the plan and the illustrations of other boats in American Fishing Schooners... by Chapelle, I've got it pretty close. Back to the cheeks. These are the most complex pieces I've ever cut/sanded/carved/sanded. Multiple angles and curves. I started with an over-sized block with the angle between the hull planking and stem cut. Next came beveling the after portion to align with the slope of the hull vis a vis the vertical line of the stem. Everything past that was trial and error on the fit. The notch on the left one is for the gammon iron holding the bowsprit to the stem post. The varying thickness of the lower cheek must be an issue with the lens. Doesn't look that way to the eye. Maury

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