Maury S
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Just received an email alert. https://contenti.com/sale-specials They are having a sale. (I have no connection to the company) Maury
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Entire port side wale replaced. Now over to the starboard side. Maury -
There is a small gap between the top of the wale and the bottom of the covering board. Only way to solve the problem is to replace the wale. New piece installed at the fore. Maury
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Bulwarks are in and being evened and faired. Note the strake above the covering board is a scupper strake (2.5" open to the next strake above). Maury
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Thanks Dave, What about the acid content of wrapping paper? M
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Chapelle, in The American Fishing Schooners 1825 - 1935 devotes a full page to the sizes of mast hoops. I recall some recent discussion, but can't find it in a search. I've been saving planed shavings from the edge of 1/16" Swiss Pear for this purpose. I waxed a piece of dowel that is about 25% larger than the maximum diameter of the main and foremasts. I then carefully loaded a coil onto the dowel, dampened the shaving and built up about 3 - 4 layers using dilute white glue to hold the shaving in place on itself. Pretty good result. A light sanding on the edges will bring them to the specified width. 28 more to go. Maury
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I turned some windlass barrels. They are correct scale to the plans. Whelps will be tough. Maury Maury
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I spent a day "kit bashing" Syren Ship Model's Windlass kit. It came out OK but the scale is too large for this boat. Boats of 85 - 105' had windlasses of 18 - 24" max. diameter. The original plans show a max diameter of about 15". These come out somewhere above 20" and there is no room to maneuver around it on deck. I'm using some stacked watch gears for the purchase rim. The barrels are bashed from the kit and the construction system is great. I'm not a fan of AYC since it doesn't sand as well as box. The real windlasses of the era were built from a solid log so I'll try that for the barrels. This boat was built in 1846, right about the time that the pump-brake windlass was developed and it's not clear from Chapelle's plan that this was of the pump-brake type. Maury
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Regarding raising and lowering the centerboard...There are a couple of methods. 1] The board itself is usually weighted and will drop as much as allowed from this weight. There is a pendant attached to the mainmast with a guntackle arrangement to raise it. 2] Sometimes, instead of a chain or line, there was a 1" (+ / -) rod attached to the CB so downward pressure can be applied via the rod. At this stage, that's how this model is rigged. With a chain attachment, a pin was inserted in a link at the deck to prevent it from dropping too far. Maury
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Lots of minor things being done. Here is the plug-stock rudder. It is round from its head down to the upper pintle. The key is the center of the round stock has to correspond to the fore side of the blade. The stock starts as a 4-sided piece, marked 7-10-7 and made 8-sided, then rounded with sandpaper. Before the rounding, I routed out a flat face on the aft edge of the stock and an off-setting notch on the fore side of the blade. They were then aligned on the mill and holes for the reinforcing bolts were drilled. The blade was assembled and tapered. Pins will be cut off flush before installation. As always, the pintles and gudgeons will be a challenge for me. Maury
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A little work on the hatch covers. They each have a staple and ring in opposing corners. This is a simple jig I use for holding the cover and staple. Just the same sized holes as the hatch cover, Rather than one hole for an eyebolt, I use two closely spaced holes for a staple (U-shaped wire.). The ring is held closer to the board rather than burying the heel of the eyebolt. The wire is hardened (stretched), wrapped around a 1/16" drill bit (3" internal dia. at scale) the cut off, pieces flattened a bit and squeezed together. they will be blackened later in a batch with other metal work. \ Another advantage is I only have to solder the rings, not an eye. Maury
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The planking is done. Everything from the companionway back to the aft hatch on the port side is left open (unplanked). From the bow back to the mainmast partners in the center of the boat (width of the hatches) is a "kingplank" about 1.5" thicker than the remaining planking. Back to fitting all those little pieces in the covering board. Maury
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Before planking any further, I need to make sure the partners are correctly aligned (port to starboard) so the mast is plumb. With my digital level, I made sure the window frame (in the background) is plumb. I shimmed up the building board to level and then aligned the temporary mast pole with the window frame. Maury
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The tedious process of filling the notches in the covering board continues. Once sanded they will be almost invisible. Wheelbox done. Axle is set in but the wheel will be a challenge. "American Fishing Schooners" (Chapelle) says the wheels were wooden until the middle 1860's.
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The mast steps are in so I can start on the deck planking. Gluing in the covering boards comes first. Weighted down with cross beams for the glue to set. The main deck planks are parallel to the center line. The quarterdeck planks are parallel to the sides of the cabin trunk. With one plank in on the starboard side abutting the cabin, I worked across the section behind the cabin. The wheelbox is being built up around a plug cut to shape. Edges will be sanded and the starboard side will be put on next, followed by the roof. Maury Maury
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