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Maury S

NRG Member
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About Maury S

  • Rank
    Maury S

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Current Build: C. Chase, Centerboard Schooner
    Recent Builds:

    Anchor Hoy Scratch built

    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-Chuck/

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.

    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    mstuffmann@yahoo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I think I'll run the beams thru a setup on the mill. That will make the bottom edge match the upper. Maury
  2. While waiting for the ISO to do its work on the spacers (BTW, the cheap school glue is just as difficult to dissolve as the good PVA) I made the deck beams. I have a good template beam for the appropriate round-up. I thicknessed some 1/8" stock down to 5" (@ scale) and marked enough convex edges as I'll need. I rough cut the line a bit proud on the scroll saw, then finished them off on the disc sander. (the top side is the critical edge). With a compass, I marked the 5" depth and roughly finished the concave side on the oscillating spindle sander. The main beams are 5" squa
  3. comely ADJECTIVE archaic humorous (typically of a woman) pleasant to look at; attractive. synonyms: attractive · good-looking · nice-looking · beautiful · pretty · handsome · lovely · stunning · striking · arresting · gorgeous · prepossessing · winning · fetching · captivating · [more]
  4. Temporary battens installed. This pointed out a few areas that needed building up. I have some .025" box that I can use here. Once they are glued in, I can start on removing the spacers and most of the cross-braces. After the inside of the frames are fair and the clamps are in place, I can re-fair the outside of the frames. Maury
  5. The temporary battens are being installed. Held in place with wire twists 'til the school glue dries. The run of the batten is fair but it's not critical as it's temporary until the clamp on the inside is installed. The plan is to invert the boat and wet the spacers (one or two at a time) with iso-soaked cotton swabs until they come undone. Hopefully, gravity's impact on the liquid will prevent the battens from getting wet and popping off. Maury
  6. Fairing continues: I had to remove a couple of the frame pairs and re-install so the bottoms lined up with the rabbet. Lots of sanding with 80 grit to bring everything fair. With the re-set of the errant frames, I have to re-fair the sheer. The last frame tops are way too high. Next will be a couple of temporary battens to attach the transom and then remove the spacers and cross-braces. Maury
  7. Druxey, So the frames do not butt up against the keel or the opposing frame part? Will a keelson go on top of the frames? The jig is tapered so the bend is different as you move fore and aft? The frames appear to be tapered before being bent. Maury
  8. Rough Fairing: Now that all the frames are in, it's time to start fairing. The skeleton is pretty solid as is and I'm not concerned with 80 grit paper breaking and of the frames. The spacers do a good job of holding everything together. I did some of the sheer fairing while the boat was held on the building board. I check elevations as I go along. Once well faired, temporary battens will be run somewhere near the top of the frames and another near the turn of the bilge. They will hold the transom in place (side to side) and provide rigidity so the spacers and cross b
  9. I see you used the special "planking repair clamps". Would you now recommend sticking to holly, or some other prophylactic? Now on to the making and installing of the remaining frames? Maury
  10. As I proceeded aft with the framing, I noticed the bottom of the horn timbers did not line up with the rabbet. The darker line at the top of the deadwood is the rabbet.The horn timber unit needed to be removed and replaced. Soaking with ISO every 15 minutes and wrapping with Saran Wrap to keep the alcohol from completely evaporating managed to loosen the section after about an hour. After replacing the timbers, I extended the rabbet across the stern post. Maury
  11. careful wet wiping after each plank! That's why I went to the Luthiers PVA with the ultraviolet dye so I know where I've got a smear that needs attention. Maury
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