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Maury S

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About Maury S

  • Rank
    Maury S

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Current Build: C. Chase, Centerboard Schooner
    Recent Builds:


    Centerboard Schooner C. Chase
    Anchor Hoy
    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-Chuck/


    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    mstuffmann@yahoo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Who's law says that your stuff expands to fill the space you have? Looks like you're on your way to filling the shed. Maury
  2. Mark, The cradles have a hole through which the mounting bolts screw into the nuts built into the top of the keel. The space between the top of the lower arch of the cradles and the bottom of the slot for the keel matches the thickness of the building board so the same bolts used to hold it to the board will hold the cradles to the boat. Maury
  3. Thanks Druxey, simple and elegant was what I was shooting for. Wipe-on Poly three coats. Boat in the cradle Maury
  4. After some more tweaking to make sure the feet of the cradle are even on a surface and the model is plumb, I finished the rough cutting of the arms and legs. Now that everything lines up, I'll start on the finishing. Lots of filing and sanding to do. Maury
  5. The shrouds are done. Time to take the model off the building board. That means I need to design and build the cradles. First step is to pull the frame plan for the frames nearest the mounting bolts. The top shape of the cradles drawing comes from those plans. The space between the bottom of the keel notch and the bottom of the cradle is 3/4", which matches the thickness of the building board, so the same mounting bolts will be used. Since the centerboard will be in the "down" position the model needs to be held high enough to accommodate this. I transferred the drawings to a piece of scrap bass wood (I prefer this to using card stock for patterns) and sanded the upper edges of the cradles to very closely match the hull at the mounting points. A test was done to insure the model sat flat (fore to aft) by using a level connecting the two pattern blanks. Once satisfied the fit was good, I traced the pattern to the final 1/4" boxwood blanks. The holes for the mounting bolts need to be drilled in the keel slots. Once I'm satisfied everything fits well with bolts in place, I'll cut the arms and legs. I think I'll put some carving on both the fore and aft edges. Maury
  6. Toni, It's looking very nice! Re-doing an errant part is important (not that I have always done so). Maury
  7. Working on the shrouds, which means serving. A tedious process that I can only do for an hour before eye fatigue sets in. Foremast shrouds are done and working on the starboard side of the main mast. Maury
  8. Maybe start over. I'm not happy with my planking. M
  9. Thanks, Justin for the comment about scale of the shrouds and the throat seizing (in Masting and Rigging section). I found my shrouds were over-sized (.035" instead of .025"). Back to serving. I re-did the fore most (single) shroud and attached it to the deadeye on the port side, following the illustration Justin provided, using a throat seizing first, then two round seizings. Takes a bunch longer and looks better. The first throat seizing was just 3 - 4 wraps, then after the round seizings were in place, I came back and added a few more wraps (not visible in this pic.). . Starboard side next, then more serving. Maury
  10. If you choose to use the monofilament line, practice on making the end flat (with an iron of some sort). It will melt and create silk-like strings if not careful. I use a torch to heat a flat steel punch and and then press the flat end against the end of the line. No risk of melting your fitting! Maury
  11. I just reviewed a source (can't find right now) showing "round seizings" on a wire shroud and "throat seizing" on hemp. I'll try to relocate. Maury
  12. Thanks, all. Easy to see if the rope is not served.... and is the shroud always crossed before seizing? Makes it kind of bulky. Maury
  13. Bob, I've been told that it might be a function of the way the rope was laid! M

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