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Maury S

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About Maury S

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Current Build: Emma C Berry as a Schooner
    Recent Builds: C. Chase, Centerboard Schooner, Anchor Hoy, c. 1825

    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-Chuck/

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.


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  1. Attached is a photo of my earlier ECB (2010) superimposed over a photo of the ECB in Mystic. The model deck is almost identical in color to the real boat. Maury
  2. Back in the shipyard. The covering board top and edges are painted "Cream". Four coats of thinned paint. I painted them before any more deck planking went on. Deck planking is 2" x 4" and oiled. I cut the planks on the Byrnes table saw and stained with an alcohol stain from Micro-Mark. Four or five coats and a wipe with some graphite brought them to the right color. BTW, this pretty much matches the color of the deck on the boat in Mystic. Hopefully this will be enough. Maury
  3. So the plan may show one wider and two narrower planks (The centerline shown, not the center of four planks.) Hatches re-done. They are within 2 /1000s of square. They are just set in place...and one of the carlings is ever so slightly out of alignment. It will be planked over.Cabin finished, but top not yet painted and doors not yet made. Maury
  4. Randy Biddle pointed out a hatch out-of-square. Back to the ISO bottle. Plan showing "king plank". The measurements shown are in 1:32 scale. Multiply by .667 to get to 1:48. Maury
  5. Druxey, the plan shows four strakes in the "king plank". It is 50% thicker than the surrounding planking. Maury
  6. The only opening that has grating is the wet well. Everything was done on the Byrnes table saw. Started out with a 1/16" piece about 1.75" sq. The blade thickness is .057" with is about 2 3/4" at scale. I cut a shim 2x the blade width. First cross-cut dado is near the edge and about 1/32" deep. I left it sitting on the blade and moved the fence out the thickness of the shim and tightened down the fence. Second cross-cut made and the re-set of the fence repeated about 12 times. I then ripped the dadoed piece into strips the width of the blade. Battens were cut the width of the dados and sanded to about .04" thick which leaves them about .02" proud. To set the spacing I put 7 dadoed strips onto two inverted strips that held them at the correct spacing. Then the battens were glued in the slots and clamped while the glue set. The battens will be sanded flush with the tops of the dadoed pieces and the edges finished. The explanation is a bit simpler than the execution. I chose a saw blade after a bunch of calculations of spacing and working with little pieces while holding everything square can be challenging. Maury
  7. Before deck planking goes in, I need to do the coamings for the cabin, the wet well and the hatch. I cut blocks from scrap that fit the openings and used them a a form for holding the coamings pieces. They are 5" tall, 3" wide and the joints are lapped. Once the glue has set, I used the same forms to hold the coamings while I sanded off the stub ends. Maury
  8. Planking is nearing completion. Regardless of the best laid plans, some stealers were necessary amidships. Below is the plank that is part that goes from 2 planks to three. This piece goes from about .085" to .125" at the joint where 2 becomes 3. With its mated pair, the third plank will go between the two shown. Below is the port side (inverted) fully planked with the stealer in place. The final strakes will be done on the starboard side and sanding will commence. Can't take too much off since I started with 1/32" stock. Maury
  9. Planking continues...I am finishing the A band (upper) before completing the B band (middle). This way, if there are any flaws in the final plank spiling they will not be visible when displayed. Maury
  10. Tony, re. deadwood stern; I don't know how widely used the design was, but the "Noank built boats" were all quite similar. Nibbed planking at the stern is right off the plan set derived at Mystic. Maury
  11. The use of MDF was a mistake. The fibers do not glue well. They got knocked off easily. Replaced with wood. Maury
  12. Druxey, Thanks for the tip re. the protective block(s). I glued a couple of MDF blocks to the covering board to protect the stem head. Maury
  13. Checking on the fairness of the planking runs... Fuzzy pics. but the lines are fair from many angles. After two of seven strakes in the middle band, I've re-measured for width and have made adjustments (a few thousands of an inch) here and there. The stem repair is holding for now. Maury
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