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Maury S

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About Maury S

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    Maury S

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  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Current Build: C. Chase, Centerboard Schooner
    Recent Builds:

    Anchor Hoy Scratch built

    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-Chuck/

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.


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  1. She's a great boat. So special that she's been restored several times over the decades and is the oldest such boat in the US. The lines are beautiful and not enough attention has been paid to her as a model. Maury
  2. No blocks necessary. Probably a midshipman's hitch or a taut line hitch will hold very well. Maury
  3. Making rope coils, tightening up some lines, working on the display case. THe bottom of the case is a mirror. I'm making a "decorative" banding on top of the mirror. 3/8" band set into 1/8 thick ply. The slot for the banding was done on the mill. One has a choice of hundreds of patterns. We chose one that will compliment the boat, not detract. I did this on a previous model case and it looks very nice. Maury
  4. OMG, Gaetan, You're the most organized person I've run into! Maury
  5. There are plenty of details in the reconstruction booklet. No original plans exist. The plans done by Ben Lankford which you have referenced are quite detailed and I think you can do a lot of detail at that scale. Additional info on schooners, much of it period metal work, of the period can be found in Chapelle's "American Fishing Schooners". Years ago I built that kit at 3/8" scale (1:32). At 1:32, the model is close to 27" long and 29" tall so keep in mind the space necessary to display. She's a lovely model. I'm Currently thinking about doing a POF at 1:48 with her as a schooner (m
  6. Aspen is very soft (350 - 450 Janka rating). I've used it for deck-house sides, etc for it's color. Does not carve well. See ratings: https://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/ideas/wood-hardness-chart-bigger-better-more-woods.html Maury
  7. One more thing...searching for gauze or cheesecloth to cover the ventilation holes (1/8"), I found the micro-thin layer of a "band-aid" that covers the gauze is perfect. It has VERY small holes and is so thin that it wont get rubbed off when assembling the frame. Gauze and cheesecloth "holes" are almost as big as the ventilation hole. Maury
  8. This is amazing. Not sure how the "Death by Saw" illustration (p. 19) applies except as a warning for 21st C. saw safety. Maury
  9. I use "Museum Glass" which protects against UV intrusion. Mounting is crucial as the protection is one-way. The full sheet has a laser marking showing which side faces the art. On the cut pieces, the glazier usually marks which side is which. Not sure I would put any artwork in front of a sunny window. Quite expensive ($300 for all the pieces of the case). Hobby Lobby's picture framing department is my source and this time they cut the glass EXACTLY to my specifications.
  10. Druxey, Good Point. The booklet does not mention this and I have always put two holes in the frames of all my models as you suggest. Never used gauze but it's a good suggestion. Maury
  11. I've finished the ratlines and started cleaning up lines, cleats, etc. While the weather is mild, I started on the display case. It's the same as the last two I've done. I highly recommend Wes Marden's booklet "Build Your Own Model Ship Case". I started with a piece of cabinet-grade ply, cut to the size I want (+ 2" on all sides). Decorative molding is cut and installed around the ply, which creates a jig for the rest of the construction. Frame pieces are cut (mitered) to size for the base and top. Stanchions are carefully cut the the proper identical length.
  12. Bolin, You will eventually find out that the drawplate for metal is not a good tool for working with wood. It is made to compress the wire while a wood draw plate like the Byrnes tool.. https://byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html shaves off the outer edges. As you start making thinner nails, you'll appreciate the difference. 😀 Maury
  13. Rigging: All of the running rigging is installed and most tied off to pins or cleats. The lanyards are finished off with three cow hitches and the tails tied with "string" (thread). Working on the ratlines. Real world they are 3/4", so I'm using Syren's .015" dark brown line. I set up a background plan with horizontal lines every 16", held in place with tweezers). For the main mast, there are only two shrouds plus the top mast backstay so the ratlines only go across the two shrouds (except for the lowest). Chapelle's American Fishing Schooners says that often there were ratlines on one
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