Maury S
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Try "Matte Medium" Maury
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More on the trestle trees. The main has a spreader, the fore does not. Dry assembly... The pieces were all pre-drilled for the stables. Finish sanding to come. All interlocking pieces done on the Byrnes saw and my homemade sled. I checked with Jim Byrnes; he's open and shipping so my new sliding top will be here soon. Maury -
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Working on the masts...Hoops made earlier from 1/16" curls using the mini plane. Cheeks and trestle trees next. I stacked 4 pieces, lightly glued them together then shaped the cheeks. The tops have a 4 degree forward slope to account for the rake of the masts. Once shaped, I soaked the piece in iso. and separated the parts. Once glued to the masts, I'll work on the trestle trees. WASH YOUR HANDS! Maury
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popeye the sailor reacted to a post in a topic:
Bluenose by Retired guy - Model Shipways - scale 1:64
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Bollards made and installed. Maury
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I assembled the stemplate / shackle / bobstay. Getting the pin through the shackle and chain was tough. I lightened up the photo. It's darker so very difficult to see. I have no first source on this so any help would be appreciated. The plans for my Emma C. Berry (c 1866) show the bottom third of the bobstay chain was parceled and served. Would this have been standard practice? [am I going to have to serve this chain?] Maury
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The elm tree pump is finished. Eric Ronenberg and Randy Biddle assured me they would have used such a pump on a schooner at that time... Not one of the more modern metal pumps like the Edsons. I started with a longer 1/4" square piece of boxwood, bored out the center on the lathe then finished it to 8-sided and cut it to proper length. The bands are paper. The cheek that supports the brake (handle) is reinforced with small brass plates. The pin in the brake is black monofilament line. The drain pipe is blackened brass tubing. Maury
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Make sure you dip the parts in a bath of baking soda + water to neutralize the reaction. Maury
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Lots of "fiddy" work. Making shaclkes, eye bolts, thimbles, etc. I installed the port-side chainplates and the covering boards over the chainplates. The chainplates need some touching-up with LOS solution and the bolt heads need flattening. Maury
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1:48 Seaman
Maury S replied to cafmodel's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Even one figure on or near a model sets the scale in the viewer's mind. Very nice pieces. Maury -
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Maury S reacted to a post in a topic:
New England Stonington Dragger by FriedClams - 1:48 POB - A 1920s Western-Rig
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Byrnes Sliding Table -Input Requested
Maury S replied to glbarlow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The first thing I did after buying the Byrnes saw (years ago) was to build a sled (not nearly as precise as Jim's). I can't imagine using any table saw to cross-cut without one. I will probably buy Jim's before my next project. Maury -
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Converting a Backyard Shed into a Model Workshop
Maury S replied to Hank's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Next step is to build a veranda on 3 or 4 sides, cover it and then screen it in for insect protection. 😉 -
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I didn't notice the config. of the deadeyes. They are upside down. Not arranged yet. Maury
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The deadeyes are temporarily attached to the chain plates. I'm waiting on some 30 Lb test monofilament line to replace the pins and then blackening. Deadeyes are from Syren. Maury
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I found some solid copper 26 ga. wire at Michaels. I took the solder well. The pieces were cut to the same size, ends squares up with a file, bent to a ring and soldered. After pickling they look good. They will be pinched and shaped for the deadeyes. The chain plates have been drilled and cleaned up. I'll round the bottoms a bit before I go any further. Maury
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The 26 ga. copper wire I have turns out to be copper coated (probably steel under). Anyone think this will be a problem for the dead eye bands? The copper is so I can blacken it in situ without staining the surrounding wood (per Ed Tosti). Maury
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