Ferit

:D
I came at the stage of rigging and I stopped...
I wait my energy come back again. Meanwhile I began a MSW member. I wanted to share my job.
Perhaps, one day if I begin to rig, I go to bed three hours later and I finish the ship in one night...

Monday February 27th, 2012 - Last wales and blue planks
  During this week-end I have finished to install the "blue" planks and the last wales located from midship towards the poop. A relaxing task, without any kind of problems raised.
 
One interesting and amusing point was the preparation of the wales using the table saw . . every time I use it, I become more experienced and I learn something useful new.
 
Then I took the occasion of the nice weather to make photos outside. There are some tubes in the background that need some painting but the daylight helps very much to highlight the blue colour of the last work I made on this ship model.
 
And now I cannot delay an activity I don't love too much: install 12 guns on the upper gun deck before continuing with the installation of the waist above them. To install these guns I think to transfer the shipyard (or better only the materials I need) at home, in order to manage this boring work in several short session during the day without the need to leave my home.  
 
See you soon, Jack.Aubrey  
 
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Saturday January 29th, 2011 - Planking the quickwork  
This week I began the task of planking the hull, from waterline downwards.
 
As usually happens, during the installation of the first planks, it is necessary to become comfortable with this work and this takes time. And this regularly happened: I succeded to install only seven planks on each side of the ship spending a lot of time and efforts. There are some problems originated by the length of the strips I'm using, but I will try to expand this matter later.
 
Here are four images . . 
 
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At the beginning I was able to apply a couple of planks by spending about two hours and half each time. After I became a little bit faster and now I'm able to apply three planks every three hours. This low speed is mainly due to the strips for planking supplied in the kit: they are too short, only 25 cm, and I need to use four of them to complete an entire plank, making joints with a lot of care to maintain the right shape and bending. I evaluated the idea to use long strips by buying them on the market but I took the decision to save money and be more useful to other shipmodelers that are building the same model and are using the same materials.
 
Anyway I can say I made some nice experiences, I will try to introduce them in the future. That's all for today, Jak.Aubrey
   

:D
I came at the stage of rigging and I stopped...
I wait my energy come back again. Meanwhile I began a MSW member. I wanted to share my job.
Perhaps, one day if I begin to rig, I go to bed three hours later and I finish the ship in one night...

Cutting the copper tape to make plates and coppering the hull.

More hull and deck planking.

Robert, appreciate the support.
 
Installed the rear platform and added the deck material.  The extra tanganika wood I'd ordered caused a lot of headache as it didn't quite match that supplied originally.  I had hoped to use what I had remaining and add the new stuff in randomly.  What I found was that the dimensions were ever so slightly different even though they were both 4x1mm and mixing would be too problematic.  I resorted to using all new wood on the aft platform so that was consistent, however, it does have a slightly different look to it.  Nothing I can really do at this point..
 
Dry fitted the aft ladders, the rear platforms needed to be reduced in height by one step to fit correctly with rear platform height.  Its a tight fit with the tiller ropes, but this is consistent with the NMM model and the plans - glad I had built ladders up prior to help determine tiller rope positioning otherwise could have had an unpleasant surprise.
 
Again, I deviated from the instructions which called for a 14mm wide step which just looked too wide, and estimated dimensions from the NMM model ending up going with a step 10mm wide (the plans are really no help in this area, scale is way off).  Shaped the bottom to account for the camber of the deck so ladders are vertical, and shaped the top to give it a more realistic look.  Overall pretty happy, so onto the fore platform...

BE, Carl, appreciate you checking in.
 
Little bit of progress to get the tiller arm mounted and rigged.  Unfortunately I had a bit of an accident with the kit part arm and had to make another, no big problem.  I used a bull dog clip and some spare limewood as protection to keep the rudder straight while installing the tiller arm.
 
The wheel is the after market Caldercraft offering which I had built up a while ago.  I toyed with the idea of making a new wheel support, but decided just to go with the kit offering but mounted the wheel inside as this seems a little more authentic.
 
As mentioned earlier, the placement of the spirketting blocks took a bit of figuring out to make sure the tiller rope doesn't interfere with the ladders yet to be installed.  Rigging the rope proved a little challenging, I took it in stages and first wound the rope around the wheel and secured with dilute PVA, and when dry then took each block in turn ensuring that the tension was appropriate and used dilute PVA to keep the shape.  I found this approach gave a more natural flow of the rope around the blocks without having to have a ridiculous amount of tension.
 

I think I'm rapidly approaching an 'ask lots of questions' phase, so please bear with me,  first of many I suspect to come.
 
I'm had thought about adding a false keel instead of coppering the keel bottom.  Based on what I've read and seen in AOTS series, the false keel was installed to protect the keel from inevitable damage, was easily replaceable, and would have been attached on top of the coppered keel bottom.  Pictures below show what I think this would have been like based on my research (I faked the scarf joints as they will not be very visible).  Is this a reasonable representation?
 

This is just an introduction to the new build log for my Conny. I will shortly add details about my current status and highlights of my past log. Please, bear with me while I am getting used to the new format and revisit my memory banks.

Well, the time has finally come for me to start on my Syren and get a log started.  I have worked on one other ship to date: The Swift by AL.  That one took me a few years of working on it off and on.  I am hopeful that I can make a little more consistent work on this lady. 
 
Last night I finally opened the box.  The Admiral, bought this kit for me as a birthday present last July and it has patiently sat on the shelf waiting for me to finish the swift.  I have read the manual that Chuck provided many times since I got the kit.
 
Last night, i performed the standard inventory of parts and came up complete.  Though I honestly did not count out the 320 nails that the kit specified or measure the lengths of rigging line.  But everything else was counted and measured.  I then labled each of the bundles of wood with the dimensions.  I have to say, that 3/64" dowel is TINY and took me a little time to find. 
 
I would like to figure out a way fo building a simple organizer for the wood so that I dont end up with a big pile of assorted strips.   I am thinking something as simple as a bunch of PVC pipes capped at one end that I can lable and store the various sizes of wood in. 
 
Thanks to the members of this site, I have a few ideas for a keel holder and just need to get to the store to get some supplies.
 
Here are some obligitory opening the box pictures:




 
And a final one of my shipmate, Eva, that "works" with me all day and then hangs out with me when its time to work on my model.  She's an 11 month old pup that we rescued... But I am really wondering who rescued who. 

 
Thanks for looking in on my Syren Log.  I hope that I can keep at this and provide consistent updates.  The Admiral is working all next week and traveling with her students, so it will be quiet around here for me and Eva to try to get some work done...We'll see how that goes.
 
Ken

The insides finished and painted. The small gaps left at the bow due to the notches in the inner gunport patterns were filled. This area will be filed out to take the bowsprit later but it's easier to fill gaps now and get a clean edge than do it later.
 

 

 

The Granado is my second wooden ship build.  This follows the cutter Sherbourne which you can follow the link to in the MSW gallery.
The Granado was chosen for a vessel offering more than a single mast but still able to be displayed in a reasonable space.
Firstly a tribute to all the prior Granados on MSW's former incarnation - they proved immensely helpful and I owe a huge tribute to you all in helping to spot impending difficulties and work around them thanks to your efforts. 
After wantonly pillaging MSW for help with my first build it's time to add to the basket of knowledge that MSW members have so graciously given to me.
This build is by no means complete but hopefully of use to others as I found previous members' posts.
So on to the build...
The build was started in April 2012 and at this stage I've just completed the second planking above the wales and filed out the gunports.
The Caldercraft kit is all the usual business like efficiency with little in the way of complaints. The fittings are top quality with turned brass cannon, limewood for the first planking and walnut for the second.
 

 
No, it's not a botch. The lens curve making the stem appear out of alignment here.
 

 
One thing to watch for on this kit is setting the gunport patterns correctly. I thought I was being very clever in measuring the placement from the base of the keel. It resulted in patterns not quite meeting the tips of the bulkhead patterns. As a result at least half of the gunports had to be raised slightly.
Better to just fit them to the tops of the bulkheads. Oh well.
 

 
Another thing to watch for is the sweep ports. The instructions don't mention them until after the gunport patterns have been installed despite the plans showing them as illustrated. From there it's the somewhat more difficult matter of cutting them through from the outside and matching them up with the inner spirketting - no easy task. If your want the sweep ports showing on the inside then tak e gauge of where they should be before installing the gunport patterns and adjust once the lot is installed. It's not difficult but comes down to reading the instructions all the way through before taking any steps.
 

 
I found it made more sense to skip ahead in the build and install the lower stern counter before the upper hull sides were planked. It allowed the upper stern counter to be shaped to fit and also allowed the wales to be shaped to fit around it. The black used here is probably a bit too dark to see the chase ports to best effect. That might be looked at later.
 

 
The mortars went together nicely after some cleaning up. The mortars themselves are nicely cast brass that just needs some time with a file to bring out the best. Some brass wire handles were added as per Peter Goodwin's excellent Anatomy of the Sip Grandado book.
The example here is the stern mortar - the smaller of the two on board.
Following shots show the mortar surrounds in place which are identical for each of the two mortars aboard.
 

 

T e i l   3

Hi friends ,
 
 
 
 
 
 
Teil 2
 
 
Regards Karl

... the other side of the ship...

I continue with another window, 5 walnut strips glued together, two of them are narrow than others, again credit card's plastic,  the shiny black plastic of the back of the CD cover for glass. Then all is painted in the same way.
 
I don't like the window provided by the kit.

Handrails were finished.
I don't like the windows from the kit and made them from plastic of my credit cards. The glass made from the back (bright black) of CD cover, then painted with gold metalic spray, became old with diluted black paint and clear varnished...

In progress...