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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Decals and masking are the most tenuous parts for scale modeling in my opinion. With decals, you never know from one sheet to the next exactly what to expect until you actually start applying them. This is due to the various manufacturers, the age of the specific decal sheet, and the complexity of the surfaces to which they are applied. Additionally, you never know exactly how the decals will react to decal solvents. It's best to start with the milder ones first, then graduate to the stronger solutions if need be. In this case, I am using Microscale brand, Microsol. Solvaset is a stronger solution but can destroy some decals. These are so thin and delicate, I thought it best to stick with the milder of the two solutions. Because this kit was introduced in the mid 90's, I am guessing the decal sheet i acquired from Tamiya USA is maybe a bit old stock rather than newer manufacture. They have that "old" feel when applying them. They should not be as brittle as they are. On the home front, nature did a marvelous job of pruning the trees in my yard. The wife and I spent several hours this morning gathering and bundling small branches, raking up, bagging leaves and acorns. Then we dragged out all the Christmas ornaments and staged them for next week. Our daughters are flying down from New Hampshire next week so we will have an early Thanksgiving-Christmas celebration. -
A raw preview of the decal action. The car body has so many compound curves and small raised details such as fasteners that make decal application without multiple touch ups, impossible. Even masking and painting the red instead of decals would be equally challenging because of the compound curves.
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Judging from tonight's effort with the decals, it's going to take a couple of days to get them on, touched up, and clear coated. Tamiya decals are very thin and brittle. Takes a lot of care not to break them into lots and lots of itty bitty pieces. This makes the work go slower and more difficult but I like the end results so far. Will take some photos tomorrow. PS: we've had a lot of rain from the storm, some wind, but not too bad. My son who lives north of me is getting hit harder. His power is out but he has a backup generator wired into his circuit. If my power goes out, I'm down to candles, flashlights, and propane gas for cooking. No generator.
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Thanks gentlemen. Decals are going on this evening, at least the start of it. We are in the midst of a hurricane right now, but it's recently degraded to tropical storm status. Should see the worst of it in my area over the next 12 hours or so. Hoping it won't be too bad.
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I first noticed the difference in the wheels/tires between the Castrol Supra and the Sard Supra while I watched a scale model build video of the Castrol car. It was obvious they protruded further outside the wheel wells and the model captures this difference between the two cars. Today, I masked off and painted the black trim around the windows. In these photos, I have moved the tires as far to the outside as they can go and then they touch the inside top of the wheel well arch. Oh, by the way, the black trim is actually Vallejo black gray. I rarely use pure black.
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Delahaye 135 by CDW - FINISHED - Heller - 1:24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Thanks Denis! -
There might be just a wee bit of room to slide the tire/wheel out just a bit, but the top of the fender flare will hit the top of the tire so it cannot fit outside the well. Thanks for the photo reference and interpretation. None of the photos I found of the Sard Supra show the tires outside of the wells/flares but I clearly see it on the photo you referenced.
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Tamiya engineers their car kits using a poly bushing where the wheel slips inside the bushing with a snug fit to hold it in place. They are all the way in, bottomed out right now. I'll have to look at some photos of the 1:1 car to try to see exactly what you are referring to. I'm not sure I understand what you're asking me.
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Finished up the cockpit area and roll cage, then test fitted the body to the chassis with interior. Everything on go.
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Thanks. It's the lacquer that does the trick. It lays down well with little buildup, so it doesn't hide detail. There is also the benefit of fast drying time. Even so, I am going to give it until tomorrow before I do some detail masking and painting around the windows.
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Thanks gentlemen. A dry fit before I add the interior pieces. Body needs a little more drying time before I begin masking around the cockpit windows for the black trim.
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After a wet sanding with a 1000 grit sanding sponge, let the car dry, then applied a coat of gloss white Mr Color lacquer. I am satisfied with it so far. The model gets a lot of decals which will considerably change the bland white look of it.
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Thanks for the info, Mark. I was unaware that GM acquired Saab.
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I worked on getting the car body prepped, then gave it a good coat of Tamiya white primer. I'll give it a wet sand tomorrow before I lay down any color coats. There is a little bit of masking and painting to do all around the window openings with semi-gloss black once the paint has had plenty of time to dry.
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Were the Saab's from the 70's? I remember back then when they had some real fans of them, but they were one of those cars you didn't see around very often, an odd-ball. There were a couple of families I went to church with who owned Saab's. If I remember correctly, they had an odd number of cylinders, not 4, 6, or 8. I heard people rave about their crash test safety ratings.
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Construction began with sub assemblies and some painting. The underbelly is painted in flat white with certain portions of it done in silver/aluminum as per the painting instructions. Other various shades and colors are used on sub assemblies, again as per the painting instructions. The only view of the car engine/transmission is what can be seen under the car, so nothing above that is modeled saving on the parts count.
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When I was in high school, a friend bought a new '71 Toyota Corolla, just the basic model which sold for around $2,000 brand new back then. Shortly after he bought it, he was involved in an accident that did some fairly major damage to his car body. He felt certain the new car would be totaled by the insurance company and he would get another brand new car. In the meantime, he abused that car in so many ways it was ridiculous, but nothing he did ever seemed to hurt that car...it just kept right on going and going. The insurance did not total the car, instead they repaired the body. His mistreatment of that Toyota and the way it held up and ran as fine as a sewing machine convinced me of the quality of the Toyota's. You just couldn't kill them. Great cars! And cheap back then, too.
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Delahaye 135 by CDW - FINISHED - Heller - 1:24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
You already found it! ☺️ -
I plan to do this with Mr Color flat white lacquer, then clear coat it with gloss lacquer. The quick drying time of lacquer should help avoid the blobs I hope.
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This 1:24 Toyota Sard Supra GT is a model that was stored in my garage for more than a decade. When I dug it out and opened the box, found the decals had aged to the point of no return due to heat in a non climate controlled environment. After writing Tamiya USA an email and paying less than $5, I had a brand new decal sheet to replace the old worn out one that came with the kit. This is going to be the subject of my next project. It's a rather simple kit to build but the colorful decals make it interesting to me. Can't remember the last time I built and painted a straight gloss white model.
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Delahaye 135 by CDW - FINISHED - Heller - 1:24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Thanks guys. Did anyone see the cartoon movie, Who Framed Roger Rabbit? This car reminds me of the cars in that cartoon...long sweeping curves and a long. long, hood. My kit decals were shot as age did them no favors. I think I'll write Heller to see if I can buy a replacement decal sheet just for the registration numbers that go on the back spare tire cover and on the front bumper. Looks sort of naked without them. -
Delahaye 135 by CDW - FINISHED - Heller - 1:24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Well, that's all folks. I'm calling this one done. Moving on to something else now.
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Delahaye 135 by CDW - FINISHED - Heller - 1:24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Thanks Mike. So many times it takes two kits to get one right. You learn all the shortcomings on the first kit and then can improve the second kit with the knowledge you gained on the first. It's good to read about it in construction articles, but first hand experience doing it is always the best teacher for me. This kit is no exception but I have no plans to build another. I should have it completely finished by tomorrow unless something unexpected comes up. -
Delahaye 135 by CDW - FINISHED - Heller - 1:24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Here you can see what I mean about the wheels not being centered in the front wheel well openings. To fix this, one would need to stretch the frame just a smidgen. I am going to live with it as it is. You can also see the gap that exists between the area below the grill and front fenders.
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