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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Thanks OC. Yes, indeed they are fiddly. Just can't get in a big rush or else it'll end up a mess. The idea is to assemble long straight pieces, let the glue set up, then come back and gently bend them round the drive sprockets, hoping you've "guessed" the right number of links to match up at the ends where they join. It's not an exact science, more like trial and error.
  2. This was a limited run model made in the 80's, and not nearly as high tech and well designed as today's CAD assisted molds. The track links are individual units and must be assembled piece by piece with just a few mating points on each link and are secured by glue...each and every link. In these photos, I have assembled one set of tracks then painted them in gun metal. Once the glue has time to properly set up, will build, paint and install the opposite set, then will weather and detail them before installing the upper tank hull.
  3. Before it's all said and done, I'll mix in varying percentages of flat white with the dark yellow, get that reduced down real thin, then use it to highlight various places on the model to give the dark yellow a sun faded, battle worn look. I'll do that last once most of the model is assembled and before I add on all the fuel cans, stowage, and tools.
  4. That's Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow over Vallejo Panzer Gray primer. I reduce my dark yellow WAY down then apply thin coats until I get the look I want over the panzer gray primer. I probably used five coats to get to that color, that way some of the dark primer color shows through in the creases.
  5. Road wheels all painted and lower hull assembled, it's ready for the tracks at this point. Got to first get the tracks painted.
  6. Interesting video about the Sherman tanks, including this model/version and the subsequent purchase of the tanks by Chile. A long, storied service life of the Sherman tank.
  7. Never heard of them, but it seems their prices are in Canadian dollars.
  8. Assembled the lower hull and primed it with Vallejo Panzer Gray Primer. Each link of the tracks are glued together along side of a metal ruler to keep a straight alignment. I like the way they have included the casting numbers in the hull parts. The kit includes the parts to do several iterations of the M-50, but I have chosen to model the 1973 version with this build.
  9. These Roden kits give a modeler a workout, but you are dealing with it very well Denis. Started work a while back on an Encore SE5A. The plastic parts are Roden, the fuselage was warped like a banana. I tried working with it and ended up putting it all back inside the box. Later, I acquired a straight Roden kit of the same model and the fuselage is fine on that one. Sometimes, it's just the luck of the draw as to whether you get a straight copy of the Roden kits or a warped one. They are not all the same or consistent quality.
  10. Tom We visited our daughter and son in law in New Hampshire and loved it up there. Such a beautiful state, very nice people. Love the way your model is turning out. She's a beauty.
  11. I think she looks great. Love the Aston Martins. In the stash, have an old old Aurora 1:25 Aston Martin DB5. It's the one that came with opening doors, hood, and trunk.
  12. Lol, yes, I can't be still. It's (modeling) a nice break away from the yard work and other chores done in the heat. Spring has sprung here in Florida, and it's hot as heck already. Weird thing is, my pool is still a little too chilly but I get in it every day anyway. It's another nice break from the heat.
  13. On the truck bed, I used Tamiya olive drab and added 25% flat white. For the truck cab, I used Tamiya olive drab but added 33% flat white. For the darker green camo color, I used Tamiya field green. All the color paint is mixed 40% paint, 60% reducer. The chassis and radiator shroud is painted Tamiya olive drab. Over top all the paint is Mr. Color semi gloss clear, mixed at 30% clear to 70% reducer. So any observed difference in sheen is the actual paint pigment underneath the semi gloss clear coat. For some reason, I have found that clear coat takes more reducer to have it lay down smoothly. Without that extra reducer, it comes out pebbly and orange peel. That's because the paint is drying before it hits the model. With the extra reducer, it dries on the model. Oh and by the way, the reducer is Mr Hobby 400 Leveling Thinner. It has a retarder that allows extra time for the paint to dry and level itself out.
  14. Have you played World of Warships, Lou? I've played a few games.
  15. My maternal 2nd great grandfather was a Florida pioneer. He bought his homestead in 1843, being one of the first to settle in what is now Sumter County. Back in those days, he was living in the middle of nowhere, but a Confederate Marshall found him and conscripted him into the Confederate military where he served in the 2nd Florida Cavalry, H Company, under JJ Dickinson. The same was true for my other maternal 2nd great grandfather, only he lived in Alachua County and served with the Florida 9th Regiment after he was conscripted. In those days, you either served or could be shot for refusing to serve.
  16. When Israel became a nation in 1948, Shermans were available in significant quantities as surplus from WW2 military equipment stockpiles. Many armies the world over had Sherman tanks in their military inventories.
  17. Never played the simulations, but I used to see a lot of guys playing on tables at the hobby shops. Those games seemed quite involved.
  18. I've begun the build by cleaning up and assembling the Horizontal Volute Spring Suspension (HVSS) units and road wheels. The kit is from the 1980's and not on a par with modern armor kit offerings from Tamiya and other Asian manufacturers of today, but by taking the time to clean up the considerable parting lines, ejector pin marks, and flash, this model can be built to a very nice replica. I remember when armor modelers were entering and winning lots of regional IPMS contests with it in the 80's and 90's. Here is the progress thus far with the suspension components: As you can see, there is a considerable parting line right down the middle of each road wheel that requires time and attention to remove. Additionally, some holes must be resized by drilling out the holes in the suspension units where the road wheels attach. Definitely not a shake and bake kit. The kit provides individual track links, something that was found on very few if any other armor kits at the time this kit was produced. But again. painstaking attention must be given to clean up each link, as the ejector pin marks can be clearly seen in the photo. The model comes with a very nice resin turret and accessories, a turned aluminum gun barrel, and a sheet of photo etch.
  19. In the mid-1950's Israel became alarmed at the growing strength of the Arab armies, especially in the growing numbers of Soviet supplied tanks. As a partial solution, Israel and France teamed up to develop a modified Sherman tank mounting a high velocity 75 mm gun, as used on the French AMX-13. The first of these arrived in time to see action in the 1956 Suez Campaign. Over the years, the M-50 Shermans were modified with more powerful engines and HVSS suspensions, enabling them to soldier on through the 1967 and 1973 wars. This build will model one of the later modified M-50 Sherman versions from the 60's through the 80's.
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