CDW

Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.

Absolutely Gorgeous,    spot on work.
 
OC.

Stretched clear sprue for the icicles and Vallejo gel. Don't want to get too carried away with icicles, just keep it to a minimum.
I agree with what Rob said and want to go back to create a melting effect where the show is touching the exhaust port shrouds and partially on the engine deck. Will try the gel there (maybe).

For the snow I used Vallejo white pigment sprinkled over a wet watered-down coat of white paint. 

Continuing with the little bits.  Pictures of the AA guns and the Island.  Lots of bits for the Island and I've completed all the pieces I can do, until it's mounted on the deck.  My first time working with 3-D printed details.  They are excellent for the amount of detail included.  Compared to the equivalent pieces in the Amati Bismarck kit, the detail is extraordinary--but there is not a lot of "building" going on there.  Overall, I think they are an improvement for the hobby.  But, they do require a new technique to detach them from their "base".  Still working out different ways to do this.  ie: nippers, #11 exacto, fingers, or a combination of all.
 
Just painted the added belt armor on the hull, in preparation to adding the MK I details on the perimeter of the hanger deck.  
 
Also just painted the MK I wooden deck pieces "Navy Blue".  Used Minwax semi-transparent stain.  Really soaked into the wood deck, while preserving the "printed" board lines. It's oil-based so no warping problem. These deck pieces have a LOT of SS PE metal dividers between the boards, which I will paint with Mission Models acrylic Flight Deck Blue 21 before attaching with CA glue.  This will be a first for me and it looks to be very challenging.  I plan to start in the middle at the Island and work toward each end.  I think that will give me the best chance of getting all the pieces in the correct place.  Any advice on the use of a primer on the SS PE before the Mission Models paint?  Currently thinking a very light coat of Tamiya light gray primer spray, but is a primer necessary?

Stretched clear sprue for the icicles and Vallejo gel. Don't want to get too carried away with icicles, just keep it to a minimum.
I agree with what Rob said and want to go back to create a melting effect where the show is touching the exhaust port shrouds and partially on the engine deck. Will try the gel there (maybe).

Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.

With the tracks painted, the wheels and track are placed back on the model. I've used some scrap pieces of foam to bring the top part of the tracks down onto the road wheels and give it the natural appearance of sag seen on real tracked vehicles. With this being said, it finishes the saga on tracks and will now move forward with adding the remaining details and weathering the model.

With the straight sections of track glued in place and dried, the idler and drive wheel can be slid off to remove the entire track for painting. After painting, will slide everything back in place. 

Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps. 
I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.



Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.

Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
 
This is how it looks when it's all finished.

It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.

The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.

Stretched clear sprue for the icicles and Vallejo gel. Don't want to get too carried away with icicles, just keep it to a minimum.
I agree with what Rob said and want to go back to create a melting effect where the show is touching the exhaust port shrouds and partially on the engine deck. Will try the gel there (maybe).

For the snow I used Vallejo white pigment sprinkled over a wet watered-down coat of white paint. 

Stretched clear sprue for the icicles and Vallejo gel. Don't want to get too carried away with icicles, just keep it to a minimum.
I agree with what Rob said and want to go back to create a melting effect where the show is touching the exhaust port shrouds and partially on the engine deck. Will try the gel there (maybe).

For the snow I used Vallejo white pigment sprinkled over a wet watered-down coat of white paint. 

Thanks Ken. I'm going to give Doc Rob's suggestion a try and attempt to create a few icicles here and there. Never tried it before but have wanted to. Now's the time.

Stretched clear sprue for the icicles and Vallejo gel. Don't want to get too carried away with icicles, just keep it to a minimum.
I agree with what Rob said and want to go back to create a melting effect where the show is touching the exhaust port shrouds and partially on the engine deck. Will try the gel there (maybe).

Stretched clear sprue for the icicles and Vallejo gel. Don't want to get too carried away with icicles, just keep it to a minimum.
I agree with what Rob said and want to go back to create a melting effect where the show is touching the exhaust port shrouds and partially on the engine deck. Will try the gel there (maybe).

For the snow I used Vallejo white pigment sprinkled over a wet watered-down coat of white paint. 

The tracks worked out nicely Craig. The snow looks very convincing too, but I would have left some parts of the engine deck and exhaust protectors free of snow, where it would have melted with the engine heat.
I once read an article about producing icicles from clear sprue, but forgot about the details. I never tried snow and ice before, so I'm eager to see your 'recipe' 

Cheers Rob

Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.

With the tracks painted, the wheels and track are placed back on the model. I've used some scrap pieces of foam to bring the top part of the tracks down onto the road wheels and give it the natural appearance of sag seen on real tracked vehicles. With this being said, it finishes the saga on tracks and will now move forward with adding the remaining details and weathering the model.

The snow looks very convincing Craig. I'm looking forward to seeing the icicles
Alan

Thanks Ken. I'm going to give Doc Rob's suggestion a try and attempt to create a few icicles here and there. Never tried it before but have wanted to. Now's the time.

Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.