PeteB

Nils, your clever use of materials and creativity continues to amaze me...well done sir 

thank you all so much.....
Denis, Martin, David, Bob, Michael
and all the "likes"
 
here a little update....
 
I`ve been at the lantern making this morning. I knew that I still had some clear PVC tube (for medical hospital oxygen masks) 
Together with with diam. 4 x 3 mm brass tube a square window was filed into the brass tube, and then the PVC tube was pushed into the framing lantern housings. There where the PVC tube passed the window it was bulbed out a bit, resembling the shape of the "glass"
 
Nils
 

 
filed a window into the brass tube
 
 

 
 
 
 
push a clear PVC tube into the brass tube
 
 

 
 

 
cut the tubes to length and fitted a concentric mounting pin
 
 

 
The lanterns are fixed with a drop of CA (ca`nt solder here because of PVC). The overstanding holding pins will be clipped off to the right length
 
 

 
 

 
watchout on station....

thank you very much Carl,
 
It`s fun to carry on..... this morning I made the crow`s nest, the lantern brackets, and am dry fitting the access ladder....
For the lanterns I have something in mind, but have to do trials first
 
Nils
 

 

Build log part 32
 
Building the foremast with attachment stations for the two derrick booms with double pivot joints to the mast, and several eyelets for fastening blocks, stays and flaglines. The spreader for the  shrouds is fixed already, Ladder, crows nest, flag-boom and lantern brackets are still missing
 
Nils
 

 
rigging of derrick booms
 
 

 
elevation stages of the mast
 
 

 
joints with double pivots for the derrick cargo booms
 
 

 
the rake of the foremast will be same as the funnels later on

Completed the rudder today.   As you see,  I created an alternative for fabricating metal gudgeons and pintels.  I dont have the tools to solder brass versions and I hate working in metal.   So I made mine from wood.  I also made a version using laserboard for the straps.  It worked just as well.  These are very sturdy rudder hinges. 
 

 

 
They are three pieces.  All laser cut.  The center is sanded to the width of the stern post and rudder.  Then the straps are added after being cut to length.  They are pre-cut with holes.  24 gauge wire was inserted into those holes after drilling them a bit deeper into the rudder.  Then the wire was pushed into the holes and snipped off.  It was snipped off so the end would stand proud of the straps by just a hair simulating the bolts.   These laser cut "cheat hinges" did a great job in my opinion and they are so easy to work with.  The straps are a bit thick originally but after gluing them on the rudder and hull they are sanded down to a really thin profile.  Then they are painted black after the wire is inserted into all of the holes.
 
For the "hinge pin"  a small length of 22 gauge wire was used.  It was glued into the hole in the center section of this mini-kit.  As a tip for those who will start fabricating theirs out of wood....paint the edges of the straps black ahead of time and you will have a nice neat edge.  You can see the ones on my hull which havent been completed yet.  I still have to add the simulated bolts with wire.   They are unpainted.   Once this is done I will create the tiller.
 

 
AND YES...before anyone asks these are now available as a stock item .   Not just for cheerful as they worked out so well I am sure others will want them.  The straps and center are 1/16" wide which is a typical size and could be used for many other models.  Both laserboard and boxwood straps will be included in each package.  Choose whatever you prefer.  Why havent these ever been made before???   They are wonderful if I dont mind saying myself.  And they are so simple.  Click Here to see them.
 

I still cannot take my eyes of the blades!
Very realistic curvature
 
If I didn't know they were tiny scaled down models I'd think these sweeps were the real thing.
(I can smell the salt water and I'm 1000 miles from it)

Still not quite decided on presentation, but finally have completed cutting and shaping all 12 sweeps. Whew! Next will be to paint them.

The keel (quille), false keel (faux quille), and stem (l’etrave). Basic things, I know, but there’s some food for thought in even these beginnings.
 
Sané was quite complete in giving, not only the radius of curvature on the stem, but also the “rake” (elancement) of the member. Elancement has several translations, rake, elongation, overhang, and is a bit different from the normal quête (rake) in terms of specificity, although not in sense. Elancement of the stem is from the forward perpendicular to the top of the keel. From these two points, it’s an easy fit to a curve with specified radius.
 
The keel is moulded (height) 15 po and sided (thickness) 12 po. The keel extends into the stem by a forefoot timber (brion or ringeot) that extends the keel flat and adds a first portion of the stem curvature.
 
Although the orientation of the keel scarfs are irrelevant, the orientation of the brion scarf is somewhat important. If, as in the drawing, the angle of the scarf is away from the concave curvature of the wood, a compass timber need not have quite as severe a curvature. The same principal applies along the length of a curved member. Simply take an interior tangent along the endpoints of the concavity. Fiddly-bits, but something the yard-dogs would know very well.
 
The stem stars out moulded at 15 po, at the end of the keel, but gradually and gently slims down to 12 po, at the perp, which continues up to the tenon. Sided 12 po, all the while. The position and number of asarfs is completely arbitrary. The actual position and number will depend on the availability of appropriate compass timber. There is no rule.
 

 
Lot of fiddly-bits involved. More to come.
 
Ciao. John

You guys crack me up! Just think of it as putting the lass on a nice course of pilates, to tighten up her .. er .. lines.
 
Chapelle was always very concerned with the straightness/curvature of the buttock lines as they cross the waterline, as a speed indicator. Also, and it was known even back then, areas of higher water pressure would scour the copper and make it shine more than the rest. Areas of high water pressure along the hull are primary sources of skin/wetted surface resistance.
 
(OK, I’m going to give you all a hook, but please don’t push it) A polished buttock is indicative of a source of hydrodynamic resistance (please no references to cotton or satin sheets). In modern terms, decreasing a curvature allows quasi-laminar flow to continue further aft and increases the effective length. Moving the turbulent flow boundary further aft is a good thing. Sometimes, a few inches is sufficient.
 
In the period in question, the French were just coming out of the quest for the mathematically perfect ‘bow solid’. They were great up-front, but they seemed to lack enthusiasm for defining a ship’s buttock areas. Jean Boudriot, in his monograph on La Venus, made some special lines (a, b, c, d) that served to help visualize and configure the ‘buttock’ planking and timbering of la Venus, because it was so obscure.
 
This is inferential, and sometimes apocryphal, but the yard dogs at Brest hated planking the butt of the Virginie. Mark Taylor knows exactly why from his build of Licorne. So they shifted the positions of the aft stations, a bit, and made things a teensy bit more easy to plank. The ships worked and Sané liked the result. Of such small things, much comes.

A project to make/build plans for a French frigate.
 
A Virginie class frigate, Cornélie was launched in 1797, at Brest, and was built on the same lines as Courageuse, launched at Brest in 1794 (renamed Justice, April, 1795). Something happened at Brest (in the region of the buttocks), and these two ships exhibited such superior sailing qualities that Cornélie was subject of several sailing trials, under “Commandement du Citoyen Villemaurin, Capitaine de Vaisseau”.
 
One thing led to another, and Sané’ went on to design the penultimate Pallas class, but notably, the “lines” were from the Justice/ Cornélie, with minor variations to reflect the minor changes in principal dimensions instantiated in the Hortense class. Notwithstanding the Réglement of 1808, Sané prepared a document, dated March 1810, entitled “Devis d’execution des frégates la Justice et la Cornélie” whence he detailed every single line, in tabular form.
 
Why do this in 1810, when both ships were off the rolls, and the 1808 réglement was in effect? Maybe because they fulfilled requirements so well, that he simply had to have a record of these ships for his portfolio. Who really knows. Suffice to say that he did and they are taken as the sine qua non of Sané frigate design.
 
Something wonderful appears in the SHD official records for this and a few other devis’; there are marginal notes, in Sané’s hand, interspersed throughout the document, but there are other notes, annotated in light pencil, that serve to relate certain dimensions to their earlier form. I like to think these were annotations by Monsieur Boudriot, in furtherance of his research. I can’t imagine the SHD allowing anyone to deface their holdings, except for Jean Boudriot. Needless to say, they were totally appropriate and substantively important.
 
So why the Cornélie? A good question. Apart from the historical significance of the ship, I am, like Messieurs Boudriou et Delacroix, a hopeless romantic. She had 11 very productive years in service, the longest of any of her class, and saw action at Finisterre, the Med, and Trafalgar.
 
Cornelia is often taken as a Romanization of Helen: a woman who launched a thousand ships and whose beauty set the ancient world afire. She had to be a redhead.
 
Cornelia Scipionis Africana was the daughter of Publius Cornelius Scipio Africanus. She was the mother of the Gracchi (Tiberius and Gaius) and Sempronia, who married Publius Cornelius Scipio Aemilianus (Scipio the younger). She is said to have been beautiful beyond the art of men to describe. She refused a marriage proposal from King Ptolemy Euergetes (king of the Ptolemaic dynasty in Egypt) because she was Roman. A model of duty, virtue, and feminine pulchritude, Rome worshiped her, and upon her death voted a statue in her honor at the entry of the civic forum.
 
Right … The info comes from the French Devis d’execution of Cornélie, Justice, Virginie, Pallas, and Venus, from SHD. Some lines come from the build draught of la Justice, from SHD Rochefort, modified by Sané’s lines tables. Some fiddly bits and niggling details come from the NMM draughts of Virginie.
 
Should be good enough to go, don’t ya think?
 
John

Hello All, and Thank you for the ‘likes’.
 
Mark - Wood comes a bit later. This is the up-front part; developing the plan set. The idea is to do a complete hull construction plan – body, sheer, two half-breadth plans (horizontals and diagonals), disposition of frame, construction of bow and stern sections, detail of the pieces, scarphs, etc..
 
My paradigm is to build the plans following the same steps, sequence, and procedures that are laid out in Morineau, Duhamel and Vial, but using scantlings and dimensionality from Sané; somewhat the same procedure as if I was doing it in wood. There will be some gray areas, particularly since the fin du 18e siècle authors were concerned mainly with detailed descriptions of 74s, giving short shrift to frigates. But where these appear, I will run screaming to Monsieur Delacroix, or this forum, or wherever else occurs to me, for assistance.
 
After this part is finished, it would probably be time to make some sawdust and at least get a hull in frame in the shipyard. It will take a while to get the plans done because everything is from tables of dimensions and offsets, and will need to be plotted and smoothed so as to be fair.
 
Part 1 comprises, of course, the keel and all of its component parts, as well as the stem, the post, the brion (wood ahead of the forefoot), dead and rising wood, etc.. Where appropriate, I will attempt to give the French names for the pieces, in conjunction with the English.
 
One always seems to begin with an outline. I guess I’m no different. So I made a basic outline using the principal dimensions of a base Sané frigate.
 
As the different parts get done, I’ll append them into the ‘outline’. After a few iterations, it should end up looking pretty much like a ship.
 

 
Ciao. John

Hello fellow shipbuilders,
 
Thank you for all the comments and for the likes! Man, I like the like-button! Miss it so much on the Dutch forums. Sometimes you dont't know what to say but with the like-button you can always let te author know you appriciate his work and his postings.
Today I worked on the trawl gallows. These gallows are placed on starboardside of the deck and they hold a pulley/block trough wich the fishingline runs into the sea. You can imagine how enormous force is exercised on these gallows so they were made from heavy steel and were anchored directly on the ships construction.
 
On this photo you can see the rear gallow with the heavy pulley/block. On the front of the ship there is also a gallow. The nets had two fishingline so the nets stayed open and with the pulleys/blocks the nets were hauled in.

 
And here some photo's of the building. Each trawl gallows containes more than 50 parts plus all the parts that fell on the floor and became unfindable.














I hope you enjoy watching and reading my postings. I enjoy reading your topics and I am amazed by the skills you have. Thank you for everything
 
See you with the next update

Regards, Kees
 

Today I finished the frontmast. I lost my camera so almost no pictures of the building but the final pictures show enough I think. It was a lot of work to find out how the rigging and lights in the mast had to be because I had no good pictures of this and it seemed different on any other ship from wich I had photo's. But I think it's done right now.

The last few days I have build the -Portaalmast- (don't know the english word for it) and the fishingbeams. These things were added ten years after the ships birth.
 

The reardeck and wheelhouse are finished now so I post some overall pictures for yoy to see how it's looking now. At this moment I started working on the winchhouse, the mast and the fishingbeams. These are later additions on the ship but they where allready there when my grandfather started to sail with here so I have to build them. It wont be easy because there are no drawings of this later additions and I have not much pictures of it. But with the help of some old fishermen I will make this to a succes.
 
Regards, Kees

All the woodwork on the wheelhouse is done now and i guess it will look great after some varnish. I also made a mast. It took a lot of time to find out all the dimensions and how all the rigging was. This week I got some new photo's wich are very helpfull to me.

Some progress on the little trawler from Holland.
 
I made some antenna's, a compass, a searchlight and some other bits and pieces.
It's hard to build an acurate model. Drawings don't show enough detaills and the photo's are made from to far sitance or are bad quality. I have to use lot's of photo's (also from other ships), drawing, the internet and the help from an old sailorman to make the parts but its very rewarding to do.
 
Now I will start working with a very strange material. Its has a brown collour, has a smell, splinters when you break it, and is not very easy to bend. I think it's a high tech new material from Nasa's laborotery's. Do you know the name? Very strange.... It makes me sneeze when I sand it


























 

Thanks for the responce and for everyone who hit the like-button.
 
I managed to do some more work on the Antje. I build an exhaustpipe a roof for the wheelhouse and I added the first detaills on the ship.

Hello Popeye,
 
It is possible to use a heatsource to bent the plastig but then you need to make a mould. Otherwise the corners would not have the same radius at all places. And in real life it will never bent like you want it to bent so you need to sand and putty any way. I made a lot off wheelhouses with round corners and I found this way the best way to do it. Today I sanded the corners and they are nice and smooth now. Pictures will follow.
 
Regards, Kees

The last few days I worked on the upperstructure of the ship and the bridge. I used only polystyrene and glue. I am using lesser CA-glue these day but use super thin ps-glue. It glues fast and strong but you have the possibility to position the pieces you want to glue.
 
Pictures say more than words.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello everyone,
 
I managed to do some work on the KW49 Antje and I came some further with her. What was in the begining just a piece of raw plastic is now becoming more and more a ship. I really like working on here. I need to figure out a lot of things every time I have to build something, but its fun.
All the half round is added, the hole for the anchor is made. I adde al the visible ribs to the deck and I made the front deck and under it some hatches and a winch.
Now I started working on the upper structure and the bridge.
 
Regards, Kees

The hull got her first base coating.

Today I sanded the new hull i made from mdf sections. The sanding went well and with the drawings and some photo's I managed to make a good shaped hull. Now I am going to finish the bull with some filler and sanding and then to the next step.
 

Well what can I say.
I glued the sections together and added the topsection (wich is curved) and then I wanted to start sanding. But I had a bad feeling about it and started to measure everything again and compared it whit the plans I had. I turned out I had made a big mistake with making the drawings and the sections. The sections where not wide enough, they are arround 2 cm to short. That was a bummer
But in the meantime I recieved (unexpected) a really good lineplan wich I would not have to adjust. So I am still going strong and just started a new build. It will take some time but there will be a new update soon. This time with a good hull with good measurements
 
Regards, Kees

Today I have sawn the mulitple sections of the hull. After this I will glue them together and then it's time for sanding, sanding and more sanding. I keep the lineplan nearby to control myself while sanding and then I will have an accurate hullform.
 

 

 

 
Regards, Kees