EJ_L

Sounds like a good approach Dave,you haven't mentioned whether your kit is double or single planked?If it is single planked and the bulkheads are quite far apart,you tend to get kinks where you have joins in the strips.Simulated joints is a better approach in this instance.Like Chris rightly says,a scribed line and then drawn in with pencil after the hull is sanded is all that is needed(assuming you are using pencil for your caulking).
If I have a plank with a long sweeping taper,I shape in a long strip and then cut to scale length before fitting.This prevents any slight steps in the taper at the joins.
As is said frequently,start a log and ask questions if you are unsure.It is easier to advise if there are a sequence of photos to follow and then to work out the next step
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Valuable information, NMBROOK.  I appreciate your input!  I think I'm looking for a balance between ease of planking and a smooth, fairly accurate appearance.  My plan is to check the thickness of the planks provided with the kit (when it arrives), and then acquire some sheets with the same thickness from which I can cut my spiled planks.  There will be a lot more preparation involved, but I think the results will be nicer.  A big part of me wants to go with scale plank lengths, as well, but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew...  Let me see if I've got this right:
 
I'll pick a starting point (the wale, for instance), which will most likely be at full width across the hull.  I'll divide the hull into working bands, lining the plank spaces off on each bulkhead, according to the planking fan.  Working down from the wale, my first couple of planks in that band will likely only require some slight tapering to fit properly.  Once I have those in place, I'll begin spiling the rest of the planks based on the curvature of the planks that are already in place.  Does that sound correct?   

Hi Dave
 
I think that it is necessary to clarify what appearance you are after.You can plank with kit supplied material with tapering and no clinkering HOWEVER the planking will look nothing like the planking on a real ship.You can compensate by edge bending the strip but that has its limitations and it''s effectiveness varies with wood species.This does vary a lot with hull shapes,I am a glutton for punishment and build 3 deckers mainly.These hull shapes are very unforgiving when trying to use parallel strip.
As the original would have the wales fitted prior to planking the planking must appear to run inbetween the wales to look authentic.This again compounds the problem that planks need to curve in two directions,quite a lot on some vessels due to the sheer compounded with the hull curving inward.
Regarding tapering,it really doesn't matter which side you taper and on the garboard,this piece invariably is anything but straight so there isn't really a tapered side.
On my build of Nuestra Senora (the pic Chris has used above)things get even more complex,the hull is divided into bands of planks on the lower hull,but these bands are tweaked to provide a pleasing visual run when viewed from all angles.This does not follow exact ship building practice,but reflects the style that contemporary models were planked,with no stealers or drop planks.
Regarding sheet stock,I would wait until your kit arrives to determine exactly what thickness you require.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The more I look at the spiling guides, the more appealing that method is to me.  I love the way the planks seem to lay down so perfectly on the bulkheads when the curve is actually cut into the planks.  I'm worried that if I try to use the standard planks and just taper the edges, I'll end up with a slightly "clinker" look, which is really unattractive to me...  Here is a comparison of a straight plank bent around the bulkheads and a spiled plank (taken straight from the "Lining Off Your Hull for Planking" guide):
 

 
The spiled plank (or cardstock, in this case) looks a lot better than the straight plank.  I know that doing a good job of tapering and not attempting to "edge set," or laterally bend, the planks will help to reduce the clinker look, but spiling still seems like the most effective way to minimize this occurrence.  Anyway, I tend to obsess over certain aspects of a process in order to figure out the "best" way to do something, so please tell me if I'm worrying over nothing.  Thanks!    
 
 
 
 
 

Whoops... ok.. I tapered the edge of the garboard towards the keel at the bow.  The rest of the plank(s) for the garboard strake to the rear are untapered.  My bad....   

Dave,
 
I'll take a shot at what I can... I'm by no means an expert.  I'm building my first ship using spiling... the rest were.. shall we say, not following any known method. 
 
The thickness is a big variable.  It depends heavily on what thickness the ship needs and more so on the scale.  A 1/16" thick plank would be way too thick for a 1:96 model and way too thin for a 1:24 in most cases.
 
The garboard is usually straight on the edge along the keel and tapered on the upper side.  Your mileage may vary depending on the ship/boat design.
 
Most folks do start at the wales first as this a key dimension.   Some go up next, others go down depending on their preference.
 
Bending the wood is a matter of water and heat... some use steam, others just soak, others a combination of soaking and heating (using everything from a soldering iron to a curling iron to electric plank benders.  
 
Tapering is also a judgement call.. taper both sides, top, or bottom.
 
As for spiling..  wide planks get cut down to fit (tapered).  If the plank is narrow enough, sometimes it can be tapered and edge bent.  
 
I know... nothing definitve.. right?   I'd use the Beginner's Guide first to get a feel for the wood and process and then on your next ship, use one of the other tutorials for spiling, etc.   

Fellow Shipbuilders: The following is my Build Log for the Vasa. This was my first experience with a  wood kit  model and as I built the Vasa I referred to a few of your Vasa ship build logs which greatly helped me. I particularly used the site by Vasa by Karleop , Ulyses Victoria, and Markitiedens. Since Karleop was a Billings build it was extremely helpful. I'm very appreciative of these sites and those who took the time to do them. Since the Billings instructions are so poor these sites were a great resource. I also used the Vasa museum site with photos of their model as a paint reference. I had the privilege of visiting Stockholm a few years ago and marvelled at seeing the Vasa in person.
     My experience as a ship model builder is fairly limited. When I was a youngster I built a number of plastic ship models and as an eighth grader I built a wood model of the French galley La Reale from a picture in a book, which I still have in a glass case. I am now 60 and will be getting back into this wonderful hobby and this is my first experience since my younger years. It has been very interesting learning from your sites and doing research on the internet to finish this ship.  I am a surgeon which might have helped with some of the fine work, but not much . Even so, it took me two years to build Vasa because of my limited time. I modified the model by using the ships original color of red instead of the Billings blue, adding the long boat, and by adding  crew figures that I bought from an internet site. I hope you enjoy my endeavor. I know I did. 
 
 
PLANKING THE FRAME AND STAINING
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Beyond amazing! I'm just in open awe at the work you are doing on this build. Keep up the incredible work! 

Here are some more progress shots. Finished the upper planking on the port side over the past week. I still need to trim up some of the over hanging planks and sand everything smooth but she is together. Now it's time to attempt the lower hull. I've been putting this off as I still struggle with planking this area with all the curves and size changes. I've been reading up and watching videos for tips and practicing so I am as ready as I will be. Just have to keep telling myself to go slow, draw it out first, measure twice cut once, and if it starts to look wrong stop and see what is going on. I find I will stay focused on a small section and lose the over all perspective. That always leads to planking that may look great in a section but is doing something crazy elsewhere.
 
Wish me luck fellow ship builders! I will keep the log updated with how it is going.

Here are some more progress shots. Finished the upper planking on the port side over the past week. I still need to trim up some of the over hanging planks and sand everything smooth but she is together. Now it's time to attempt the lower hull. I've been putting this off as I still struggle with planking this area with all the curves and size changes. I've been reading up and watching videos for tips and practicing so I am as ready as I will be. Just have to keep telling myself to go slow, draw it out first, measure twice cut once, and if it starts to look wrong stop and see what is going on. I find I will stay focused on a small section and lose the over all perspective. That always leads to planking that may look great in a section but is doing something crazy elsewhere.
 
Wish me luck fellow ship builders! I will keep the log updated with how it is going.

Here are some more progress shots. Finished the upper planking on the port side over the past week. I still need to trim up some of the over hanging planks and sand everything smooth but she is together. Now it's time to attempt the lower hull. I've been putting this off as I still struggle with planking this area with all the curves and size changes. I've been reading up and watching videos for tips and practicing so I am as ready as I will be. Just have to keep telling myself to go slow, draw it out first, measure twice cut once, and if it starts to look wrong stop and see what is going on. I find I will stay focused on a small section and lose the over all perspective. That always leads to planking that may look great in a section but is doing something crazy elsewhere.
 
Wish me luck fellow ship builders! I will keep the log updated with how it is going.

One more piece of advise, absolutely start a build log on MSW. You will access more expert help and friendship than you thought possible.
 
Best,
John

For now, I'm holding off on the scroll saw.  I want to see how easily I can cut out my spiled planks by hand before I make that decision.  Given how thin my sheetwood will be, I should be able to cut out the rough shape of each plank with an X-acto, filing and sanding it into its final shape.  In the meantime, however, I am adding a few more tools to my collection.  Here they are:
 
Dremel 3000, with attachments 1" Spring clamps Small trigger clamps  Larger sanding sticks  Sanding sponges  Extra X-Acto blades   
I've been putting off getting a Dremel for WAY too long.  There have been so many time when one would have come in handy.  Between modeling, household repairs, and gunsmithing, I'll always have a use for this thing!  I'm primarily going to use the trigger clamps for holding the end of my plywood bulwarks in position around the front of the bow while my glue dries.  I can put one of the jaws in a hatch opening in the false deck and the other up against the outer face of the bullwark and hold it down nicely.  As for the sanding sticks, I currently have regular thin cardboard-style emery boards.  I want to get some of the foam-type nail files, which should work better.  I think I'm going to go with sanding sponges over an angled sanding block for sanding the hull.  I had originally wanted to find a Mini Sander from ADC, but I think the sanding sponges will work just as well for sanding the various curves I'll encounter.  I'll probably get them in 100-150 grit, and maybe 220 grit or finer if I can find them.  As for the X-acto blades, I think for now I'll stick with #11, #18, and #22.  These are the blades I feel I'll be using most often.  
 
My kit arrives tomorrow, so I'm getting excited!  All of my preparation thus far has been based on the research I've done and the tools I see builders use most often (as well as the helpful advice from all of you!).  I have tried to walk through the steps of the first portion of the build (hull construction and planking) in my mind, making a note of which tools I'd probably need.  My goal was to first acquire the tools that I was certain I'd need beforehand in order to do a good job, adding additional pieces when they became necessary.  So far, I think I have laid a good foundation.  I can't wait to get started!  Thanks again, everyone!   

More work has been taking place in the shipyard and la Couronne is getting her 2nd planking. I am using mahogany for the majority of the planking. The wales and some of the trim is walnut and the white sections at the gun ports are maple. I am trying to have minimal paint and so I want the wood's natural colors to do the job. There is an exception to this as I am using a dyed blue boxwood for parts on the upper hull. I like the look of the blue dye over paint in this case and as it is a small area I think it will look good. Might have some of that on in the next update.
 
I've stated mid ship installing the wales and working upward. I wanted to work on the "easier" part first before tackling the lower hull. I also needed to have good starting points and I've seen from other build logs and planking instructions that starting this way seems to be the most common route for planking. In the past I have tended to just do things my way and hope for the best. Although I am proud of my work, I have discovered a deep desire after viewing many remarkable builds on here to push myself harder to make a better ship. This has involved changing a lot my methods and habits and so far I am very glad I did.
 
I have also discovered that the kit did not come with nearly enough mahogany to plank this ship. Luckily Jason at Crown Timberyard has come through for me and found what I was needing. They say that a bad review will travel faster than a good one and so I am trying to change that. This was the second time I have ordered from Jason and I have been very pleased with the service each time. The wood is excellent quality, and his service, response and shipping is very good as well. This was even more noticeable this time as it was a custom order and not "off the shelf." He wen out of his way to find the lumber to match what I needed. I will use him for all my wood needs for ship building and highly recommend anyone not familiar with Crown Timberyard to check it out if you are needing wood for your build.
 
And now enjoy the pictures!
 

I would agree with all the suggestions on here but keep in mind that most of these model ships take a long time to build and there are many things that do not need to bepurchased at once. Spread it out as the stages of construction demand so its a bit easier on the wallet.
 
Also I would suggest to pick out a couple different measuring devices. Both a rigid ruler and a flexible measuring tape such as one a taylor would use is advisable. Make sure they have both standard and metric units as depending on where you kit was made you may have to do a lot of converting back and forth.
 
As to the light, for years I only had the bench light with magnifer but lately I have been looking into the head band magnifyer for working with tiny details. I do not think I will give up my bench light as I need the extra light but I admit that I do not use the magnifyer much as it is akward and does get in the way more often than not.

Here are some more progress shots. Finished the upper planking on the port side over the past week. I still need to trim up some of the over hanging planks and sand everything smooth but she is together. Now it's time to attempt the lower hull. I've been putting this off as I still struggle with planking this area with all the curves and size changes. I've been reading up and watching videos for tips and practicing so I am as ready as I will be. Just have to keep telling myself to go slow, draw it out first, measure twice cut once, and if it starts to look wrong stop and see what is going on. I find I will stay focused on a small section and lose the over all perspective. That always leads to planking that may look great in a section but is doing something crazy elsewhere.
 
Wish me luck fellow ship builders! I will keep the log updated with how it is going.

The construction of the beak is progressing. Provision has been made for the gammoning that will secure the bowsprit.
 

 
The view from above.
 

 
More to follow...............

This shot shows the  progress to date of the beak construction. All timbers are Pau Marfin.
 

 
More to follow...............

Well, I made the buckets.  There were a few mistakes along the way and I’m thankful for Min-Wax Wood Hardener.  I managed to get 6 buckets in the end.  However, my first effort at making the ‘rail’ to hold the buckets shattered.  I‘ll have to keep trying.  The tree nailing on the quarter deck still needs to be done.  But, all in good time.

Beyond amazing! I'm just in open awe at the work you are doing on this build. Keep up the incredible work! 

Hello,
thanks for the very nice reactions.
Here is a small continuation:

Hello dear friends,
 
here I show you pictures of manufacture of the steering wheel.
I hope that it is interesting for you.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Goodbye, see you soon.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
to build the capstan, was another challenge.
The first attempt was unsuccessful. So I started a second attempt.
The following figures show the manufacturing process.
  
 
    
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
     
 

 
 
 
Be continued ...

 

Hello,
here I show the making of the tumblers.
  
 
  

Hello,
thank you for your nice comments.
Here are some more anchor pictures.