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About daveward

  • Birthday 04/08/1987

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    Science, camping, firearms, television/movies, disc golf, computers, gaming, WWII militaria, and models

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  1. With the third row of planking, the ship is starting to take shape (I mark the positions of the bulkheads on the completed planks in pencil so that I will know where they are when I determine the plank widths for the second layer): Everything seems to be fitting together properly, and I think I'm maintaining the proper symmetry. So, at the end of my session on Saturday, after approximately 67 hours of work on this project so far, I had completed 6 planks (out of a total of 26). The planking process is going more smoothly than I had anticipa
  2. After repeating the process for the second row of planking, here is the second port plank: These next two photos shows how I leave the overhanging end of the plank at the stern/transom while the glue dries, then trim it so that it is flush with the transom: Here is the second starboard plank: Here's a shot of the symmetry at the bow: And a shot of the stern: And, finally, the underside:
  3. Thanks for the kind words, guys! It has taken me a bit of time to post this update, as I've been a little busy lately. I started the planking process over the weekend, so the work I'm about to show you took place on Saturday. I did not get as many pictures of the actual spiling process as I would have liked, so perhaps I can document this procedure a little better next time. For this first layer, I decided to use a single plank per row instead of going with scale plank lengths, as I felt that it might provide a smoother surface for the second layer (which will be done in scale lengths). A
  4. Thanks, Ian! I am still not completely sure about whether I want to try scale plank lengths for the first layer. In practice spiling runs, I have found it very difficult to get an accurate curvature at the point where the bow section meets the mid-ship section. My spiled plank always seems to want to curve down and away from the edge of the bulwark at this point. It might be that the tape is simply not sitting properly at this point, but it has happened just about every time I've practiced with it. Cutting a longer plank would likely only exacerbate this problem, which is why I was leanin
  5. I'm finally back to making some progress on the Lady Nelson, so I thought I'd post an update. Last night, I finished the port side bow filler blocks. These ones went much quicker, as I am more comfortable with my little technique for creating these blocks. I started off with the third bulkhead space from the stem, creating my stacks of balsa: Next, I gave it a rough sanding until it was fairly close to the edges of the bulkheads: The last step was making sure the block was symmetrical with the starboard side block: Next, I worked on the space closest to
  6. No worries, Seventynet! I'm glad that my log can serve as a place for people to supplement their knowledge of model ship-building. It was educational for me, as well!
  7. Good advice, NMBROOK. I already picked up sheets of both lime and walnut so that I could completely replace both layers of planking. I will do some test bends with the walnut to see how easily it breaks. If I find that the results are not satisfactory, I will consider switching to a different wood for the outer layer. Hopefully everything goes well!
  8. Good advice, Gunther! I'll do a little more sanding on the filler blocks once I get all of them made. Some parts of them will serve as the bonding surface for the planks, as a few of my bulkhead angles were more extreme than the angles that the planks will take. Bill, I look forward to meeting up with you again! Hopefully I'll make some more progress on the fillers before then! In other news, the electric plank bender that I ordered from Model Expo was supposed to arrive a few days ago. I received the package, but to my surprise, there was a waterline marker inside instead of the
  9. Thanks, Elijah! I recommend giving Naval Action a shot. I really enjoy it! I spent last night making the stern filler blocks for the starboard side of the ship. This was pretty tough, as there is not a lot of space to get in and do the required sanding. However, I think it came out alright. I began by using a needle file to adjust the bevel on the kit's "filler block," which was a bit to steep: Once that was done, I used the same technique of fitting balsa wafers in the space between the bulkheads and sanding them down: The first filler block came out looking pret
  10. Antony, I play on the first U.S. PVE server under the name David Ward. You should start playing! It's very fun! As for my build, I have finished one of the stern filler blocks. I'll post some photos tomorrow. I am really becoming concerned over how the planking will look at the sternpost and keel. Since these pieces are so thin and there was no real way to create a rabbet joint, I don't know how the planks are supposed to be flush with them. One layer of planking is already thicker than the sternpost and keel piece... There's only so much sanding I could do before the planks would j
  11. Well, I don't have any updates for today, as I spent the whole weekend engrossed in a video game (Naval Action). If you play computer games and haven't heard of this one, check it out! It's all about trade and naval combat in the age of historic sailing ships. You start as a Midshipman on a cutter and work your way up through the ranks, taking command of larger vessels of your choice, such as privateers, brigs, frigates, and ships-of-the-line. You can battle pirates or ships from other factions, or board and capture trading vessels carrying contraband goods. The game is still in its devel
  12. Thank you so much, Joe! You're too kind! It's really great to have a place like this where I can discuss the hobby with such friendly people. I wouldn't call myself a skilled shipwright just yet, but I'm doing my best! I'm glad you're enjoying the build log. Writing it up and adding all the pictures is almost as time-consuming as building the ship itself!
  13. Very interesting tips/tricks, guys! I have experimented with mixing sawdust and Titebond III, and the results were pretty good. I used it to fill a small gouge that I made in a spare piece of wood, just to see what it would look like. I hope that I won't have many spots to fill when I get done planking, but if I do, I'll try some of your methods! I went out and picked up some 3/32" sheets of balsa yesterday, and I made some filler blocks for the bow of the ship. My build log for the Lady Nelson contains a detailed description of this process, but since some of you may not follow my log
  14. I decided to make another attempt at spiling a plank in order to see if I could get better results with my new filler blocks. I was quite pleased with how everything turned out! I used two different spiling methods, to see which I preferred... The first method was with my painter's tape, and the second was using a compass to trace the curvature of the bottom edge of the bulwark onto an index card laid across the bulkheads (I'll be showing this method, although both worked for me). One thing I learned was to always transfer the traced curvature to an index card and cut it out for test fitti
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