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DILEMMA – PLAN ACCURACY (FOR THE REPLICA SHIP) OR HISTORICAL ACCURACY
Those of you that have reviewed previous portions of this log, or have studied the Niagara, know that there is a historical anomaly regarding Model Shipways Niagara Kit. It is based on the Replica Ship owned by the State of Pennsylvania and moored at Erie, Pa. I was drawn to this kit because I was born in a town on the banks of Lake Erie, and have a driving interest in military history, and Commadore Perry’s exploits during the famous battle on Lake Erie during the War of 1812 are absolutely fascinating.
I come to find out that the US Niagara, which I had seen in person at a tall ships event in Cleveland Ohio, is not the restored original ship that Perry used to defeat the British (it rotted out of existence). It is a replica, and no plans really exist of the original. While the current ship is a good rendition, it has some modern amenities that would not have been present on the 19th century ship.
That conflict hits the kit builder squarely in the face when the decision to place the companionway (which by most accounts, and based on a number of contributors on the forum, was not present on the historical ship) the skylights (which would likely have been on the historical ship), and the capstan (which definitely was on the original ship and was a real workhorse) come into play.
So here is my dilemma. I scratch built the two skylights and the companionway based on the plans, and built the capstan with laser-cut kit parts. When you place all of these strutures on the ship as per the plans, it is INCREDIBLY CROWDED.  The Capstan is literally wedged between the forward skylight and the companionway, so much so, to be almost useless, and that is after raising the height so that the wood bars could actually turn without hitting something. The forward skylight also is right up against the pumps, making for more cramped space.
In the attached photos, I have demonstrated the problem.  The first photo is a design that leaves the aft skylight out.The second is with all of the structures as per the plan.
By the way, I looked at some photos of the replica ship and YES, it is very crowded indeed, so the plans are accurate.
Any thoughts out there.  By the PLANS, or BASED ON HISTORY AND UTILITY??? Two skylights and the companionway, or leave out one of the skylights and give the crew some room to maneuver???

CAPSTAN PLATFORM
I decided that I had better get all of my deck furniture and structures finished and glued down before I do any more rigging. I had to build a platform for my Capstan that I built over a year ago. The plans call for it, and comparing the Capstan to the adjacent Skylights, I definitely need one to raise the height so that the wood handles when attached to turn it rise above the tops.
Here are the photos on how I did mine.  I could have just added a square piece of cherry, but decided to do a little joinery, even though it is on the bottom and won’t be seen.

CAPSTAN PLATFORM
I decided that I had better get all of my deck furniture and structures finished and glued down before I do any more rigging. I had to build a platform for my Capstan that I built over a year ago. The plans call for it, and comparing the Capstan to the adjacent Skylights, I definitely need one to raise the height so that the wood handles when attached to turn it rise above the tops.
Here are the photos on how I did mine.  I could have just added a square piece of cherry, but decided to do a little joinery, even though it is on the bottom and won’t be seen.

CAPSTAN PLATFORM
I decided that I had better get all of my deck furniture and structures finished and glued down before I do any more rigging. I had to build a platform for my Capstan that I built over a year ago. The plans call for it, and comparing the Capstan to the adjacent Skylights, I definitely need one to raise the height so that the wood handles when attached to turn it rise above the tops.
Here are the photos on how I did mine.  I could have just added a square piece of cherry, but decided to do a little joinery, even though it is on the bottom and won’t be seen.

Tom,
 
Looking good.  The key to the garboard strake is the shape of the edge at the bow. It has to be shaped (sort of a half round) so that the upper edge of the strake is straight in all places as it bends around the bow and fits at the bottom in the rabbit. This will assure that the upper strakes lay correctly as you move your way up.
 
I used Syren's 3mm blocks for the cannon/carronade rigging, and I rigged just the carriages to the deck first before adding the actual tubes and upper slides. I posted a practicum on stropping the small 3mm blocks on my log. For scale purposes, it seemed to be the right block, even though it was incredibly small and hard to handle.
 
Good luck.

Tom,
 
Looking good.  The key to the garboard strake is the shape of the edge at the bow. It has to be shaped (sort of a half round) so that the upper edge of the strake is straight in all places as it bends around the bow and fits at the bottom in the rabbit. This will assure that the upper strakes lay correctly as you move your way up.
 
I used Syren's 3mm blocks for the cannon/carronade rigging, and I rigged just the carriages to the deck first before adding the actual tubes and upper slides. I posted a practicum on stropping the small 3mm blocks on my log. For scale purposes, it seemed to be the right block, even though it was incredibly small and hard to handle.
 
Good luck.

Sean,
 
Welcome aboard. As a fellow buckeye, I have to reiterate Lee's suggestion to join the modeling club.  I have been a member for two years, and although I have a hard time making all of the meetings (I am 2 hours away), the ones I have attended are really helpful. The members of this club are some of the finest craftsmen in the state, and you will learn a lot.
 
We are all looking forward to you build log.
 

Sean,
 
Welcome aboard. As a fellow buckeye, I have to reiterate Lee's suggestion to join the modeling club.  I have been a member for two years, and although I have a hard time making all of the meetings (I am 2 hours away), the ones I have attended are really helpful. The members of this club are some of the finest craftsmen in the state, and you will learn a lot.
 
We are all looking forward to you build log.
 

Sean,
 
Welcome aboard. As a fellow buckeye, I have to reiterate Lee's suggestion to join the modeling club.  I have been a member for two years, and although I have a hard time making all of the meetings (I am 2 hours away), the ones I have attended are really helpful. The members of this club are some of the finest craftsmen in the state, and you will learn a lot.
 
We are all looking forward to you build log.
 

I was wondering how many coils.  I was going to do some experimenting. Nearly all of my pins around the masts are rigged. About half of the pins along the rails. I still have to do bracing, so I should be using some more pins.  Did you coat your coils with a water/glue solution?

Ken,
Love your Maersk Detroit and looking forward to seeing your work on the Victory. Thanks for the good words.
 

Mike,
 
Bad description. With the hammocks installed, you have to reach over them to get the pinrails. They fit flush with the ends of the rails. It is just so hard to do anything inside the body of the ship's deck with all of the lines already.  I just did not want to add to the challenge. I will add the hammock rails at the very end.
 
I love those "itty bitty" hammocks on your build. I just did not have the energy.
 

I spent some quality time in the shipyard this weekend and finished all of the hammock rails and stations.
Before I install them, I have to clean up all of the pin rails. When I did my rigging, I simply fastened the ropes in the pinrails by wedging the ropes in the holes.  I did not want to tie anything off in case I had to tighten lines.  I am sure glad I made that decision because I had to make a lot of adjustments. The only detriment is that it is very crowded on deck, forcing me to go double fisted with the tweezers.
Working from the bow, going back, I have started to tighten lines and tie off the tails. this should take a while. I spent all day Sunday working on the bow pin rails and Foremast rails. Once I get done, I will be making some rope coils for the pins that carry lines.
Final thoughts on the hammock rails, I thought I had made a mistake by not building them when the deck was clear of masts and rigging. In the end, if I had added them then, and built them from the ground up on the ship rail as the plans suggest, it would have been more difficult, and in the end, they would have been the way when I did get around to rigging.  They cover all of the major pin rails. Doing them on the bench and sliding them in after all of the rigging and deck work is done to me seems to be the better play.

I spent some quality time in the shipyard this weekend and finished all of the hammock rails and stations.
Before I install them, I have to clean up all of the pin rails. When I did my rigging, I simply fastened the ropes in the pinrails by wedging the ropes in the holes.  I did not want to tie anything off in case I had to tighten lines.  I am sure glad I made that decision because I had to make a lot of adjustments. The only detriment is that it is very crowded on deck, forcing me to go double fisted with the tweezers.
Working from the bow, going back, I have started to tighten lines and tie off the tails. this should take a while. I spent all day Sunday working on the bow pin rails and Foremast rails. Once I get done, I will be making some rope coils for the pins that carry lines.
Final thoughts on the hammock rails, I thought I had made a mistake by not building them when the deck was clear of masts and rigging. In the end, if I had added them then, and built them from the ground up on the ship rail as the plans suggest, it would have been more difficult, and in the end, they would have been the way when I did get around to rigging.  They cover all of the major pin rails. Doing them on the bench and sliding them in after all of the rigging and deck work is done to me seems to be the better play.

I was wondering how many coils.  I was going to do some experimenting. Nearly all of my pins around the masts are rigged. About half of the pins along the rails. I still have to do bracing, so I should be using some more pins.  Did you coat your coils with a water/glue solution?

Ken,
Love your Maersk Detroit and looking forward to seeing your work on the Victory. Thanks for the good words.
 

Mike,
 
Bad description. With the hammocks installed, you have to reach over them to get the pinrails. They fit flush with the ends of the rails. It is just so hard to do anything inside the body of the ship's deck with all of the lines already.  I just did not want to add to the challenge. I will add the hammock rails at the very end.
 
I love those "itty bitty" hammocks on your build. I just did not have the energy.
 

I spent some quality time in the shipyard this weekend and finished all of the hammock rails and stations.
Before I install them, I have to clean up all of the pin rails. When I did my rigging, I simply fastened the ropes in the pinrails by wedging the ropes in the holes.  I did not want to tie anything off in case I had to tighten lines.  I am sure glad I made that decision because I had to make a lot of adjustments. The only detriment is that it is very crowded on deck, forcing me to go double fisted with the tweezers.
Working from the bow, going back, I have started to tighten lines and tie off the tails. this should take a while. I spent all day Sunday working on the bow pin rails and Foremast rails. Once I get done, I will be making some rope coils for the pins that carry lines.
Final thoughts on the hammock rails, I thought I had made a mistake by not building them when the deck was clear of masts and rigging. In the end, if I had added them then, and built them from the ground up on the ship rail as the plans suggest, it would have been more difficult, and in the end, they would have been the way when I did get around to rigging.  They cover all of the major pin rails. Doing them on the bench and sliding them in after all of the rigging and deck work is done to me seems to be the better play.

Tom,
 
It has been a while since I took a peek at your log and I note that you have made tremendous progress. You are doing all the right things. I am looking forward to seeing the results of your paint work.
 
Looks like we are sending another big snow storm your way. We are getting it tonight. And yes, I hate it when I hear that Mike is using his air conditioner.
 

Tom,
 
It has been a while since I took a peek at your log and I note that you have made tremendous progress. You are doing all the right things. I am looking forward to seeing the results of your paint work.
 
Looks like we are sending another big snow storm your way. We are getting it tonight. And yes, I hate it when I hear that Mike is using his air conditioner.
 

I spent some quality time in the shipyard this weekend and finished all of the hammock rails and stations.
Before I install them, I have to clean up all of the pin rails. When I did my rigging, I simply fastened the ropes in the pinrails by wedging the ropes in the holes.  I did not want to tie anything off in case I had to tighten lines.  I am sure glad I made that decision because I had to make a lot of adjustments. The only detriment is that it is very crowded on deck, forcing me to go double fisted with the tweezers.
Working from the bow, going back, I have started to tighten lines and tie off the tails. this should take a while. I spent all day Sunday working on the bow pin rails and Foremast rails. Once I get done, I will be making some rope coils for the pins that carry lines.
Final thoughts on the hammock rails, I thought I had made a mistake by not building them when the deck was clear of masts and rigging. In the end, if I had added them then, and built them from the ground up on the ship rail as the plans suggest, it would have been more difficult, and in the end, they would have been the way when I did get around to rigging.  They cover all of the major pin rails. Doing them on the bench and sliding them in after all of the rigging and deck work is done to me seems to be the better play.

I spent some quality time in the shipyard this weekend and finished all of the hammock rails and stations.
Before I install them, I have to clean up all of the pin rails. When I did my rigging, I simply fastened the ropes in the pinrails by wedging the ropes in the holes.  I did not want to tie anything off in case I had to tighten lines.  I am sure glad I made that decision because I had to make a lot of adjustments. The only detriment is that it is very crowded on deck, forcing me to go double fisted with the tweezers.
Working from the bow, going back, I have started to tighten lines and tie off the tails. this should take a while. I spent all day Sunday working on the bow pin rails and Foremast rails. Once I get done, I will be making some rope coils for the pins that carry lines.
Final thoughts on the hammock rails, I thought I had made a mistake by not building them when the deck was clear of masts and rigging. In the end, if I had added them then, and built them from the ground up on the ship rail as the plans suggest, it would have been more difficult, and in the end, they would have been the way when I did get around to rigging.  They cover all of the major pin rails. Doing them on the bench and sliding them in after all of the rigging and deck work is done to me seems to be the better play.

Warm wishes from Zoar Ohio to a fellow Buckeye. What part of Ohio are you from and what hobby shop do you frequent?

HAMMOCK STANTIONS
It has been quite a while since I posted to my build log. Since I moved, I have been working on a complete remodeling of my kitchen, so my carpenter skills have been focusing on the Macro rather than the Micro.
I have finally got time to get back to the Niagara, and am dedicated to the stretch run to get her done.
A while back, as I was rigging the ship, and encasing the deck and railing with ropes and stays, I realized that I had not built the hammock railings. When I realized that it would be nearly impossible to build them with all of the rigging lines in the way, I therefore decided to skip the process.
Overtime, I felt that was a cop out and decided to come up with a strategy to install them.  Following the plans, I surmised I could accomplish this only one way – to build them on the bench as a total component, and then slip them between the rigging lines and stays and glue them down. Necessity is the mother of invention.  In the end, It actually was a good way to tackle this part of the build.  Here is how I did it.

HAMMOCK STANTIONS
It has been quite a while since I posted to my build log. Since I moved, I have been working on a complete remodeling of my kitchen, so my carpenter skills have been focusing on the Macro rather than the Micro.
I have finally got time to get back to the Niagara, and am dedicated to the stretch run to get her done.
A while back, as I was rigging the ship, and encasing the deck and railing with ropes and stays, I realized that I had not built the hammock railings. When I realized that it would be nearly impossible to build them with all of the rigging lines in the way, I therefore decided to skip the process.
Overtime, I felt that was a cop out and decided to come up with a strategy to install them.  Following the plans, I surmised I could accomplish this only one way – to build them on the bench as a total component, and then slip them between the rigging lines and stays and glue them down. Necessity is the mother of invention.  In the end, It actually was a good way to tackle this part of the build.  Here is how I did it.