6ohiocav

Looking great Don.
 

MAIN MAST STAY SAIL HALLIARDS
When I got back to the workshop, I was able to finish off the halliards for the main mast stay sails.  Here are some photos of the final product.
 

SPANKER BOOM TOPPING LIFTS
I had previously seized the topping lift lines to the spanker boom.  I just need to weave them through the blocks under the tree and attach them to the deck.Not as easy as I had anticipated. I had to seize a double block to end of the lift lines....

 
 

 
 
 
 

 

 
 
and then seize a lanyard to the same block....

 
 
I stropped another double block with an eye bolt and attached that to the deck. Then weaved the lanyard and tightened the whole assemble.

AND..... after looking at this picture, realized that I rigged the lanyard in the upper holes of the block, and will have to redo it all over again. What the camera finds.
 

Gents,
 
HELP!
 
I need some guidance on a rigging question. I decided early on to include cluelines and sheets to all of my yards, even though I am not adding sails. For the royal and topgallant, I simply tied the sheet lines to the yards, and ran the cluelines down through a block to the deck (as per the Niagara narrative instructions). The Niagara plans were pretty vague on how to handle the Topsail, so I turned to my Petersson rigging book and used his design.
 
I am now faced with the Course Yards. Again, I have turned to Petersson. Following his diagram for the Foremast, I tied two blocks together with a single tack line as seen in the photo I have attached. My question though is this ok for the Niagara, and more specifically, where would I belay the end of the tack line?  In the diagram, the tack line runs through a block extended beyond the bow on a rod. There is no such apparatus on the Niagara, so where to belay the tack line.  The Niagara plans seem to indicate that the tack line should belay to the chock rail.
 
In my photo of the ship, you will find my prototype. I ran the tack to the chock rail and one end of the sheet will be belayed to an eyebolt on the outside of the hull and the other will run through a hole and tied to a cleet inside the bulwark.  Does this make any sense?
 
I also have a general question that will show my landlubberness. I believe the sheet and clueline attach to the bottom corner of the sail. If that is correct, why would Petersson pull the blocks so close to the mast, rather than out at the end of the yard.
 
The first photo is from the Niagara plans. It is hard for me to fully understand this. Petersson is a lot easier to understand.
 
Any suggestions?
 
 

BUMPKINS/BOOMKINS
Thanks to the responses from fellow forum members, and particularly Jerry, I found the answer to my question regarding the tie off for my forward tack lines. The actual ship is equipped with stubby bumpkins. I looked over the plans last night, and they make no reference to the bumkins. So, based on the photo that Jerry was able to provide, I created some.
I first had to cut a slot in the Chock Rail. Not an easy thing to do on a fully rigged ship. I could not find room to use my jewelers saw, and the cherry wood was too hard to cut with an x-acto knife. I elected to pull out my dremel with a rotary diamond cutter. That was scary. It fit in there, but one slip, and I could wipe out an entire month of rigging. Luckily, I was able to cut the slot, and NOTHING ELSE!
I then fabricated the bumpkins out of cherry square stock. I chamfered the end and beveled the back to make it look better. I then stropped a 5/32 block to an eyebolt and seized it to the end of the bumpkins and then glued it to the ship. I then attached a cleat to the inside of the bulwark to finish it up.
Don't try this at home.

 
The slot for the Bumpkin

 
I used some square cherry stock for the bumpkin. The design is based on a photo of the original ship, which is not very clear, so this is pretty much what I thought it should look like.

 
A couple of coats of tung oil and I drilled a hole and inserted the 5/32 single block.

 
Installed on the ship

 
Stropping the tack line to the Sheet block

 
Rigged

 
Final assembly. Today, I will have to cut some sheaves in the bulwarks and belay the sheet lines on eyebolts.

Don,
 
Your ship is exquisite. I especially love the name plate and deadeyes that Mike did.  Isn't technology great.

BUMPKINS/BOOMKINS
Thanks to the responses from fellow forum members, and particularly Jerry, I found the answer to my question regarding the tie off for my forward tack lines. The actual ship is equipped with stubby bumpkins. I looked over the plans last night, and they make no reference to the bumkins. So, based on the photo that Jerry was able to provide, I created some.
I first had to cut a slot in the Chock Rail. Not an easy thing to do on a fully rigged ship. I could not find room to use my jewelers saw, and the cherry wood was too hard to cut with an x-acto knife. I elected to pull out my dremel with a rotary diamond cutter. That was scary. It fit in there, but one slip, and I could wipe out an entire month of rigging. Luckily, I was able to cut the slot, and NOTHING ELSE!
I then fabricated the bumpkins out of cherry square stock. I chamfered the end and beveled the back to make it look better. I then stropped a 5/32 block to an eyebolt and seized it to the end of the bumpkins and then glued it to the ship. I then attached a cleat to the inside of the bulwark to finish it up.
Don't try this at home.

 
The slot for the Bumpkin

 
I used some square cherry stock for the bumpkin. The design is based on a photo of the original ship, which is not very clear, so this is pretty much what I thought it should look like.

 
A couple of coats of tung oil and I drilled a hole and inserted the 5/32 single block.

 
Installed on the ship

 
Stropping the tack line to the Sheet block

 
Rigged

 
Final assembly. Today, I will have to cut some sheaves in the bulwarks and belay the sheet lines on eyebolts.

Looking great Don.
 

Dave,
 
That is a fine saw. Mine is similar albeit larger and not Japanese made. Hishika is a great product, and Japanese saws in general set the standard. The problem I had was the that Jib Shrouds are at the very same plane as the chock rail, and sit only about an inch away in the front. On the back side, my bell tower was directly in line. I therefore had no way to draw my micro saw in either direction.
 
I survived. The dremel was quick and exhilarating, although I think I will save this kind of excitement for my favorite sports team.
 
That Hishika is now on my list. That is a fine product and I already know how I could of used this on other tasks.  Thanks for the referral.

BUMPKINS/BOOMKINS
Thanks to the responses from fellow forum members, and particularly Jerry, I found the answer to my question regarding the tie off for my forward tack lines. The actual ship is equipped with stubby bumpkins. I looked over the plans last night, and they make no reference to the bumkins. So, based on the photo that Jerry was able to provide, I created some.
I first had to cut a slot in the Chock Rail. Not an easy thing to do on a fully rigged ship. I could not find room to use my jewelers saw, and the cherry wood was too hard to cut with an x-acto knife. I elected to pull out my dremel with a rotary diamond cutter. That was scary. It fit in there, but one slip, and I could wipe out an entire month of rigging. Luckily, I was able to cut the slot, and NOTHING ELSE!
I then fabricated the bumpkins out of cherry square stock. I chamfered the end and beveled the back to make it look better. I then stropped a 5/32 block to an eyebolt and seized it to the end of the bumpkins and then glued it to the ship. I then attached a cleat to the inside of the bulwark to finish it up.
Don't try this at home.

 
The slot for the Bumpkin

 
I used some square cherry stock for the bumpkin. The design is based on a photo of the original ship, which is not very clear, so this is pretty much what I thought it should look like.

 
A couple of coats of tung oil and I drilled a hole and inserted the 5/32 single block.

 
Installed on the ship

 
Stropping the tack line to the Sheet block

 
Rigged

 
Final assembly. Today, I will have to cut some sheaves in the bulwarks and belay the sheet lines on eyebolts.

Looking great Don.
 

Don,
 
Your ship is exquisite. I especially love the name plate and deadeyes that Mike did.  Isn't technology great.

Dave,
 
That is a fine saw. Mine is similar albeit larger and not Japanese made. Hishika is a great product, and Japanese saws in general set the standard. The problem I had was the that Jib Shrouds are at the very same plane as the chock rail, and sit only about an inch away in the front. On the back side, my bell tower was directly in line. I therefore had no way to draw my micro saw in either direction.
 
I survived. The dremel was quick and exhilarating, although I think I will save this kind of excitement for my favorite sports team.
 
That Hishika is now on my list. That is a fine product and I already know how I could of used this on other tasks.  Thanks for the referral.

BUMPKINS/BOOMKINS
Thanks to the responses from fellow forum members, and particularly Jerry, I found the answer to my question regarding the tie off for my forward tack lines. The actual ship is equipped with stubby bumpkins. I looked over the plans last night, and they make no reference to the bumkins. So, based on the photo that Jerry was able to provide, I created some.
I first had to cut a slot in the Chock Rail. Not an easy thing to do on a fully rigged ship. I could not find room to use my jewelers saw, and the cherry wood was too hard to cut with an x-acto knife. I elected to pull out my dremel with a rotary diamond cutter. That was scary. It fit in there, but one slip, and I could wipe out an entire month of rigging. Luckily, I was able to cut the slot, and NOTHING ELSE!
I then fabricated the bumpkins out of cherry square stock. I chamfered the end and beveled the back to make it look better. I then stropped a 5/32 block to an eyebolt and seized it to the end of the bumpkins and then glued it to the ship. I then attached a cleat to the inside of the bulwark to finish it up.
Don't try this at home.

 
The slot for the Bumpkin

 
I used some square cherry stock for the bumpkin. The design is based on a photo of the original ship, which is not very clear, so this is pretty much what I thought it should look like.

 
A couple of coats of tung oil and I drilled a hole and inserted the 5/32 single block.

 
Installed on the ship

 
Stropping the tack line to the Sheet block

 
Rigged

 
Final assembly. Today, I will have to cut some sheaves in the bulwarks and belay the sheet lines on eyebolts.

Looking great Don.
 

Dave,
 
That is a fine saw. Mine is similar albeit larger and not Japanese made. Hishika is a great product, and Japanese saws in general set the standard. The problem I had was the that Jib Shrouds are at the very same plane as the chock rail, and sit only about an inch away in the front. On the back side, my bell tower was directly in line. I therefore had no way to draw my micro saw in either direction.
 
I survived. The dremel was quick and exhilarating, although I think I will save this kind of excitement for my favorite sports team.
 
That Hishika is now on my list. That is a fine product and I already know how I could of used this on other tasks.  Thanks for the referral.

Doug,
 
It is interesting that the Syren and Niagara brigs are similar in design, albeit the Syren I believe is an ocean vessel and the Niagara has the Great Lakes shallow draft. That ship is on the list of future projects.
 
Good luck as you sail forward.

Doug,
 
Soft woods, such as basswood (one of the softest) and pine are very difficult to stain effectively. The wood fibers are less dense, and are very inconsistent. They soak up the stain, and because of the inconsistency in density, takes the stain differently throughout and tends to create a blotchy appearance.  I can see that in your photos.
 
Pre-stain, or Pre conditioners (minwax makes a good product) helps with soft woods since it saturates the fibers. After it dries, subsequent coats of stain will therefore adhere more consistently.  Conditioners are basically clear, but will add some darkening.
 
I must caution you however, no preconditioners are going to fully remedy the look of a soft wood when it is stained. Unlike hardwoods, such as pear, cherry, or boxwood, where stain enhances the look of the wood, staining softwoods almost always "changes" the look of the wood.
 
I am not suggesting that you strip off the basswood and replace with expensive hardwoods (although some many modelers have done that with the Syren), but you might think about painting it.
 
As far as adding conditioner after staining, you might want to try that after you sand down the surface as it appears you are doing now. Apply a couple of coats of conditioner and restain. It might help, but then again, it might look similar to your first effort. At this point, I would suggest that you experiment on a section of scrap planks first to see what you come up with.
 
Good luck.  Your ship looks great so far. The gun ports and sweeps are spot on.  That is not easy to do.

BUMPKINS/BOOMKINS
Thanks to the responses from fellow forum members, and particularly Jerry, I found the answer to my question regarding the tie off for my forward tack lines. The actual ship is equipped with stubby bumpkins. I looked over the plans last night, and they make no reference to the bumkins. So, based on the photo that Jerry was able to provide, I created some.
I first had to cut a slot in the Chock Rail. Not an easy thing to do on a fully rigged ship. I could not find room to use my jewelers saw, and the cherry wood was too hard to cut with an x-acto knife. I elected to pull out my dremel with a rotary diamond cutter. That was scary. It fit in there, but one slip, and I could wipe out an entire month of rigging. Luckily, I was able to cut the slot, and NOTHING ELSE!
I then fabricated the bumpkins out of cherry square stock. I chamfered the end and beveled the back to make it look better. I then stropped a 5/32 block to an eyebolt and seized it to the end of the bumpkins and then glued it to the ship. I then attached a cleat to the inside of the bulwark to finish it up.
Don't try this at home.

 
The slot for the Bumpkin

 
I used some square cherry stock for the bumpkin. The design is based on a photo of the original ship, which is not very clear, so this is pretty much what I thought it should look like.

 
A couple of coats of tung oil and I drilled a hole and inserted the 5/32 single block.

 
Installed on the ship

 
Stropping the tack line to the Sheet block

 
Rigged

 
Final assembly. Today, I will have to cut some sheaves in the bulwarks and belay the sheet lines on eyebolts.

Thanks for stopping in Dave.

Jerry,
 
Ill be darned. That is clearly a bumpkin. Thanks for that photo. It appears that there is a block seized on the end of the short bumpkin, and the single tack line passes through the block and then a sheave in the planking and then I assume is tied off on a cleat.
 
I am going to have to poor over the plans to see if I missed this somehow. I can't imagine that this would not be included. Looks like I will be doing some construction work.
 
Will we be seeing you at 155 Gettysburg?

Thanks Jerry,
 
Your eloquent description put's my landlubberness to shame.
 
Then again, the Niagara is not designed with a Bumpkin, or at least my plans don't show one. Based on discussions with fellow members, I am going to use the backside of the cathead, or may simply tie off on a cleat.
 
BTW, have you had your Constellation in the water lately?
 
 

Gents,
 
HELP!
 
I need some guidance on a rigging question. I decided early on to include cluelines and sheets to all of my yards, even though I am not adding sails. For the royal and topgallant, I simply tied the sheet lines to the yards, and ran the cluelines down through a block to the deck (as per the Niagara narrative instructions). The Niagara plans were pretty vague on how to handle the Topsail, so I turned to my Petersson rigging book and used his design.
 
I am now faced with the Course Yards. Again, I have turned to Petersson. Following his diagram for the Foremast, I tied two blocks together with a single tack line as seen in the photo I have attached. My question though is this ok for the Niagara, and more specifically, where would I belay the end of the tack line?  In the diagram, the tack line runs through a block extended beyond the bow on a rod. There is no such apparatus on the Niagara, so where to belay the tack line.  The Niagara plans seem to indicate that the tack line should belay to the chock rail.
 
In my photo of the ship, you will find my prototype. I ran the tack to the chock rail and one end of the sheet will be belayed to an eyebolt on the outside of the hull and the other will run through a hole and tied to a cleet inside the bulwark.  Does this make any sense?
 
I also have a general question that will show my landlubberness. I believe the sheet and clueline attach to the bottom corner of the sail. If that is correct, why would Petersson pull the blocks so close to the mast, rather than out at the end of the yard.
 
The first photo is from the Niagara plans. It is hard for me to fully understand this. Petersson is a lot easier to understand.
 
Any suggestions?
 
 

Thanks for stopping in Dave.

Jerry,
 
Ill be darned. That is clearly a bumpkin. Thanks for that photo. It appears that there is a block seized on the end of the short bumpkin, and the single tack line passes through the block and then a sheave in the planking and then I assume is tied off on a cleat.
 
I am going to have to poor over the plans to see if I missed this somehow. I can't imagine that this would not be included. Looks like I will be doing some construction work.
 
Will we be seeing you at 155 Gettysburg?