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wool132

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  1. Step 17: Cut, fit, and glue twelve 1/16” x 1/2” floorboards, six on each side of the keel. Mark the edges of the boards with a Number 2 (HB) pencil to simulate caulking (some recommend only doing this on one edge for each pair; I did both edges). The ends of the floorboards were cut square but they came out bowed after I sanded them to fit. Word gets back that a Northwest Short Line True Sander would do a better at keeping the edge square when adjusting the length than the hand-held sander I used: To make sure they're the same length, I cut the first of the floorboards to the desired
  2. Step 11: Number the bulkheads (parts 1-16) with a soft pencil while they are still in their boards. Some modelers recommend numbering all of the parts, not just the bulkheads. Step 12: Remove the two bulkhead 8s from PA-4. Carve and sand the bevels into the bulkheads using the engraved bevel lines as a guide (see Detail 2-4). Step 13: Clamp the bottom of the hull to a piece of glass to ensure it stays flat while you assemble the bulkheads (I didn't do this and now the bottom is slightly warped. Nothing serious but fooey.). Step 14: Glue the bulkheads to the keel. Make sure they are squa
  3. Note: The instructions that come with the kit say to now glue parts 20, 21, and 22 to the keel. I think this should be done later. Delaying allows the use a straight edge when trying to keep the keel straight as it is glued to the bottom in Step 9 below. Step 7: Match bottom parts 23S (PA-2) and 23P (PA-1) and apply a strip of Scotch tape to the joint. Turn over and apply a few spots of glue to the joint. Step 8: Glue part 24 (PA-1). Clip all three parts to a piece of glass to make sure the assembly is flat while the glue dries. Note: the next step also deviates fro
  4. I heeded Antony's advice and found that one of the corners was down by 0.014". I managed to reduce that so now there is no place (longitudinally, laterally, or diagonally) between the Veritas 24" steel straightedge and the face surface that'll accept a 0.003" feeler guage. There is a 5" long by 2" wide section at one end that's still off by 0.002": I think I'll declare victory and move on. Jonathan
  5. This looks like a great kit for a first build, so instead of just a narrative, I'm going to try and create a sort of revised instruction manual (instead of kit bashing, manual bashing?) for other beginners to perhaps follow if they wish. Hopefully I'll get done with the build (gulp!) and the blog will be a worthwhile effort. To that end, I plopped the contents of the instruction manual PDF file (available from ModelExpo Online) into Pages and sifted out the historical notes and extra explanatory material to get just the basic build steps. I'll use that to start my amended, abbrevia
  6. I rummaged around the shop in the garage and found a scrap piece of hard maple to use as a building stand: After a bit of work with some hand planes it started to take shape: The rough edge on the right was cut off with a rip saw and everything planed square. A smoothing plane set for a fine cut provided the final finish: The end product is shown below. I'll screw in a couple of poplar wood strips to hold the keel then finish it with Watco Danish Oil. Jonathan
  7. I've begun this build as a companion to the Syren build log I started earlier. I had planned to co-construct the Pinnace or the English Longboat but apparently these models are rather challenging (in the words of mikiek (December 8): "You know, I remember thinking about this kit right before I bought it. Looking at it online, I figured it would be a cinch to knockout. A small footprint. No rigging. A cheap price. How hard could it be? "WRONG!") So I put those two boats aside and looked for something larger for my inexperienced fingers and found the Gunboat Philadelphia. I kne
  8. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! The kit arrived safe and sound a couple of weeks ago with no sign of the notorious pink punk plywood: The keel is slightly warped but should be manageable: Most of the month has been spent setting up an infrastructure. There's now a six foot long portable table in our attic set aside for modeling: There's a general work area on the right side and the left has a makeshift dust hood. The dust is filtered out by a whole-room air cleaner that used to be on the floor. To help guide the dusty air into the cleaner are some shelves made of
  9. It really is Jonathan. Honest! Jonathan (It would have been funny if I had signed this Fred!)
  10. Thanks for all the Hello's from around the world! I'm looking forward to a lot of fun and satisfaction but also understand that there will be some catastrophes (e.g., David Rice, 02-Aug) along the way. I've been browsing the forums while awaiting my order's arrival so although I have yet to create any sawdust, I've learned an awful lot from all the posts. Jonathan P.S. Rumor has it that my order has left Model Shipways and is currently in Opa Locka, FL. Won't be long now!
  11. Thanks for the posts, guys! Meanwhile, while I wait for the order to arrive, I'm daydreamin' ... _SalD_: Augie: Rafine: RVChima: Jonathan
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