6ohiocav
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
SPANKER GAFF AND BOOM
Before stepping the main mast, I prepared the spanker gaff and boom, and the rigging blocks and such for the mast.
I dressed up the gaff and boom with cleats and chock blocks. I inserted small pin heads to replicate carriage bolts, then sent it off to the paint booth for primer and two coats of flat black paint. I then seized thimble lashings and blocks per the plans.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Thanks Mike for the encouraging words.
Steve, I understand the question clearly. The end knots are single half hitches with a spot of CA to hold it together. I tie the half hitch such that the rope that leaves the knot heading to the first shroud line wraps "underneath" the knot to create the proper shape of a hanging ratline. I do the same at the end. I hope this makes sense. If you don't do this correctly, the rope will have an inverted hang to it. I discovered this by trial and error.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Thanks Mike for the encouraging words.
Steve, I understand the question clearly. The end knots are single half hitches with a spot of CA to hold it together. I tie the half hitch such that the rope that leaves the knot heading to the first shroud line wraps "underneath" the knot to create the proper shape of a hanging ratline. I do the same at the end. I hope this makes sense. If you don't do this correctly, the rope will have an inverted hang to it. I discovered this by trial and error.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
MAIN MAST UPPER DEADEYES
Having now done this on the Foremast, I sort of fell into a technique that may be of some help to the family of Niagara builders out there.
The Niagara calls for four, upper shroud 3/32” deadeyes, port and starboard, to be seated in the top with a loop underneath to accept the futtock lines and hooks that are tied off to the main shrouds.
Here is how I did mine.
I use a .26 gauge wire for the stropping process. It is the same wire I use for my eyebolts. I also use the same drill bit I use to do holes for the eyebolt.
The pictures tell the story.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from jct in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
MAIN MAST UPPER SHROUDS, STAYS, COURSE LIFTS AND SPANKER MAST
I tied the upper shrouds and stays for the main mast. I also created the course lift blocks that slip over the mast cap. I did this BEFORE I attached the cap – much easier to create this on the vice and slip over the cap.
I also worked on the spanker mast. This is a dowel supplied by the kit. I stained it with cherry stain and had to straighten it (best I could). I attached the bracket to the mast, and created the deck cradle. I also had to insert a square piece of cherry in the top to attach it to. Make sure that you leave a little of the mast exposed above the tops to accept the Spanker Gaff Cradle assembly, made with two blocks that hang over the end.
Here are the photos.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from PeteB in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Thanks Mike and Mike for stopping in.
I am trying to leave a trail for future Niagara builders that will help with the rigging process. No sense having to recreate the wheel each time.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from abelson in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
CATHARPIN
One other task on the foremast that I should have done earlier was the installation of the catharpin on the lower shroud. That should have been done as soon as I did the lower shrouds and futtock shrouds. By waiting to do this after more of the rigging had been put in place made this harder than it needed to be.
I used a .025 rope and tied 2 small measured pieces, routed through a small blackened ring, on each side of the staves. Once set, I tied the two rings together to create the tension that tightened up the shrouds and futtock shrouds. A very nifty method to keep everything taut.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from PeteB in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
MAIN MAST SHROUDS, MAIN STAY AND MAIN PREVENTER STAY, COURSE HARNESS
I spent the evening serving the forward main mast shrouds, main and preventer stays, and assembling the course yard harness. All of these have to be placed over the main mast top before attaching the cap.
I used a served .035 rope for the forward shroud and tied a burton pendant on the end per the plans. I also used a .035 served rope for and preventer stay and a served .045 rope for the main stay. On those, I turned the mouse on my wood lathe using the same process I use for the bullseyes. I then glue them to my rope and use the serving line to cover them. I have found that it helps if you put a small amount of CA glue around the mouse to hold the serving line from slipping off.
With these done, I can place them over the mast head and attach the top and the cap. As I did with the foremast, I will then work my way up.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from PeteB in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
LOWER MAIN MAST SHROUDS
I worked on preparing the lower shrouds for the main mast. I have used .035 rope.The ENTIRE forward shroud will be served. For the remaining 4 shroud lines, I only served that portion of the shroud that wrapped around the mast. As I showed in an earlier post regarding the foremast, that ended up being exactly 2 inches.
Here are the shots of those back shroud lines. After serving the 2 inch section, I mount it in the vice and lash 1/2 inch from the ends and cover up the serving ends. The picture explains it better. This leaves enough space in the loop to go over the end of the mast head.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
LOWER MAST SHROUDS, STAVES, FUTTOCK SHROUDS, AND YET MORE RATLINES
I reached yet another milestone – I stepped the main mast.
I seized the deadeyes to the end of my shroud lines using my jig, and then lashed them to the channel deadeyes with .012 lanyards (tan rope).
I then lashed the upper and lower staves using black sewing thread. The staves were made of cherry stripwood that I milled and finished in tung oil.
I then worked on the futtock shrouds. I used 3mm brass hooks (blackened) and .025 rope. I seized the hooks on with a whipping. I wrapped the loose end of the shroud lines around the upper stave and seized the end to a shroud line with my black sewing thread.
Then, MORE RATLINES!
I am obviously getting a little better at doing this. The work on the mainmast is much cleaner than the foremast. Practice does help.
Of course, it is still time consuming. These simple exercises on the starboard side took all weekend, and I have to do it all again on the port side.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Mike,
Thanks for looking in.
I have found that it just takes a lot of time to tie hundreds of knots. Once I get the shrouds done, and the last course of ratlines, hooking up the remaining stays that are hanging off the mast should go pretty smartly, at least they did on the foremast. I can almost see a bit of light at the end of this long tunnel.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
LOWER MAST SHROUDS, STAVES, FUTTOCK SHROUDS, AND YET MORE RATLINES
I reached yet another milestone – I stepped the main mast.
I seized the deadeyes to the end of my shroud lines using my jig, and then lashed them to the channel deadeyes with .012 lanyards (tan rope).
I then lashed the upper and lower staves using black sewing thread. The staves were made of cherry stripwood that I milled and finished in tung oil.
I then worked on the futtock shrouds. I used 3mm brass hooks (blackened) and .025 rope. I seized the hooks on with a whipping. I wrapped the loose end of the shroud lines around the upper stave and seized the end to a shroud line with my black sewing thread.
Then, MORE RATLINES!
I am obviously getting a little better at doing this. The work on the mainmast is much cleaner than the foremast. Practice does help.
Of course, it is still time consuming. These simple exercises on the starboard side took all weekend, and I have to do it all again on the port side.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from PeteB in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
SPANKER GAFF AND BOOM
Before stepping the main mast, I prepared the spanker gaff and boom, and the rigging blocks and such for the mast.
I dressed up the gaff and boom with cleats and chock blocks. I inserted small pin heads to replicate carriage bolts, then sent it off to the paint booth for primer and two coats of flat black paint. I then seized thimble lashings and blocks per the plans.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Mike
I will pull up a chair and take some serious notes on how you accomplish the hammocks. I am still up to my neck in ropes, blocks and ratlines.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from GuntherMT in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
SPANKER GAFF AND BOOM
Before stepping the main mast, I prepared the spanker gaff and boom, and the rigging blocks and such for the mast.
I dressed up the gaff and boom with cleats and chock blocks. I inserted small pin heads to replicate carriage bolts, then sent it off to the paint booth for primer and two coats of flat black paint. I then seized thimble lashings and blocks per the plans.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Mike
I will pull up a chair and take some serious notes on how you accomplish the hammocks. I am still up to my neck in ropes, blocks and ratlines.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Canute in Section Deck Between Gunbays by mikiek - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23
Mike,
This looks great. Have you finally decided whether you will be adding the hammock rail to your Niagara? I am getting close to that very decision. If so, have you given some thought how you would do it now that you have this experience.
Looking forward to when you get back to the Niagara. It is lonely out here on Lake Erie without you.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Telp in Fitting the yards to the masts
I wholly concur with E.J. on this one. I am at the same point in my build and I used metal pins with a drop of CA to secure the yards to the masts and then created beaded parrels for the yards calling for them, and simple riggin rope for the remainder. I have some photos on the log if you want to take a look.
Like you, I also dressed up the yards and masts as much as i could before attaching to the ship. Good call.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from David of Berwick in Fitting the yards to the masts
I wholly concur with E.J. on this one. I am at the same point in my build and I used metal pins with a drop of CA to secure the yards to the masts and then created beaded parrels for the yards calling for them, and simple riggin rope for the remainder. I have some photos on the log if you want to take a look.
Like you, I also dressed up the yards and masts as much as i could before attaching to the ship. Good call.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in Section Deck Between Gunbays by mikiek - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23
Mike,
This looks great. Have you finally decided whether you will be adding the hammock rail to your Niagara? I am getting close to that very decision. If so, have you given some thought how you would do it now that you have this experience.
Looking forward to when you get back to the Niagara. It is lonely out here on Lake Erie without you.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in Section Deck Between Gunbays by mikiek - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23
Mike,
This is really coming along nicely. Great bucket! How does it feel to work in a macro world?
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6ohiocav got a reaction from tasmanian in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Mike,
If you are talking about how they are attached to the top of the mast - YES you alternate P to S. I thought you were referring to alternating for when you tie them down.
This is how I did mine. I think this shows the alternating pattern.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in Fitting the yards to the masts
I wholly concur with E.J. on this one. I am at the same point in my build and I used metal pins with a drop of CA to secure the yards to the masts and then created beaded parrels for the yards calling for them, and simple riggin rope for the remainder. I have some photos on the log if you want to take a look.
Like you, I also dressed up the yards and masts as much as i could before attaching to the ship. Good call.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
SPANKER GAFF AND BOOM
Before stepping the main mast, I prepared the spanker gaff and boom, and the rigging blocks and such for the mast.
I dressed up the gaff and boom with cleats and chock blocks. I inserted small pin heads to replicate carriage bolts, then sent it off to the paint booth for primer and two coats of flat black paint. I then seized thimble lashings and blocks per the plans.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from EJ_L in Fitting the yards to the masts
I wholly concur with E.J. on this one. I am at the same point in my build and I used metal pins with a drop of CA to secure the yards to the masts and then created beaded parrels for the yards calling for them, and simple riggin rope for the remainder. I have some photos on the log if you want to take a look.
Like you, I also dressed up the yards and masts as much as i could before attaching to the ship. Good call.
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