6ohiocav

Bullseyes
 
So here is the story of my trials and tribulations on creating 1/16 bullseyes. Drilling out the centers of the kit supplied deadeyes, as suggested by the instructions was unacceptable and frustrating.  So with some thought and some practice, I came up with an acceptable procedure, using my mini lathe.
 
I turned some cherry stock down to the correct diameter, and carved out the shapes of the bulleyes with a parting tool. I then set the center with my spindle, and using a pin vice, with the lathe turning slow, drilled a hole down the center.  I drilled only through the first bullseye, and partly into the second one.  That kept the stock from splitting, and maintained my center for the next bullseye.
 
Then, leaving the pin vice drill bit in the hole, I carefully cut off the bullseye with my jewelers saw.  I cranked down the RPM to as slow as possible. Keeping the bit in the hole allowed me to collect the finished bulleye when the saw cut through.  It acutally worked.
 
Here are some photos.

Glenn,
 
 I totally understand your pain. Whenever you think that you are only writing letters to yourself, always remember that there are many silent admirers of Sailing Warships out there, and your Vanguard will always be on top of my list of gotta see logs.

Don,
 
Agree with all of the members.  If you were to paint anything, I might consider painting the under surface a darker color over the white.  It may mask some of the gaps. Just a thought.

Hey Mike,
 
It is amazing how we are facing the very same challenges. My bowsprit with the cleats JUST fits in that opening. I have to contort it in an exact way to get it to pass. I had to open the hole a little to even up the angle from port to starboard.  I also painted the inside with flat black.
 
My choice of order was based on the ad hoc survey I sent out. the majority said to rig from front to back - bottom to top. It makes sense.  seems like most Niagara builders chose this method.
 
By the way, does anyone know the best way to tie off lanyards for bullseyes. I have seen them lashed to themselves or sometimes frapped.

Scott,
 
Thanks for stopping in.
 
For my hatches, I cut blocks of balsa wood to the proper size of each, and used strip wood cut with 45 degree angles to wrap around the blocks.  This maintained proper size and kept them square. It also provided a solid base for assembly. As long as you don't glue the strip wood to the balsa block, it works. Once done, I glued a thin strip ledge for the grating. 
 
Hope this helps.

Completed Bowsprit/jib Assembly

Bowsprit and Bowsprit Yard Assembly, Lashings and Preliminary Rigging.
 
Now that I have some bullseyes, I was able to prepare the Bowsprit, Jib and Bowsprit Yard for assembly and rigging.
 
I seized my bullseyes onto eyebolts and inserted them into the bow.
 
I created the brass collar for the jib and assembled the bowsprit.  I lashed the assembly with kit supplied rope.
 
I created the sling for the bowsprit yard and secured it to the bowsprit.
 
This weekend, I will continue to hang the remaining bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit assembly and once complete, attach it to the hull.
 
The pictures I show only have it set in place.
 
Very tedious and time consuming.  However, set in place makes this actually look like a real ship.

Bullseyes
 
So here is the story of my trials and tribulations on creating 1/16 bullseyes. Drilling out the centers of the kit supplied deadeyes, as suggested by the instructions was unacceptable and frustrating.  So with some thought and some practice, I came up with an acceptable procedure, using my mini lathe.
 
I turned some cherry stock down to the correct diameter, and carved out the shapes of the bulleyes with a parting tool. I then set the center with my spindle, and using a pin vice, with the lathe turning slow, drilled a hole down the center.  I drilled only through the first bullseye, and partly into the second one.  That kept the stock from splitting, and maintained my center for the next bullseye.
 
Then, leaving the pin vice drill bit in the hole, I carefully cut off the bullseye with my jewelers saw.  I cranked down the RPM to as slow as possible. Keeping the bit in the hole allowed me to collect the finished bulleye when the saw cut through.  It acutally worked.
 
Here are some photos.

Bowsprit and Bowsprit Yard Assembly, Lashings and Preliminary Rigging.
 
Now that I have some bullseyes, I was able to prepare the Bowsprit, Jib and Bowsprit Yard for assembly and rigging.
 
I seized my bullseyes onto eyebolts and inserted them into the bow.
 
I created the brass collar for the jib and assembled the bowsprit.  I lashed the assembly with kit supplied rope.
 
I created the sling for the bowsprit yard and secured it to the bowsprit.
 
This weekend, I will continue to hang the remaining bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit assembly and once complete, attach it to the hull.
 
The pictures I show only have it set in place.
 
Very tedious and time consuming.  However, set in place makes this actually look like a real ship.

Bullseyes
 
So here is the story of my trials and tribulations on creating 1/16 bullseyes. Drilling out the centers of the kit supplied deadeyes, as suggested by the instructions was unacceptable and frustrating.  So with some thought and some practice, I came up with an acceptable procedure, using my mini lathe.
 
I turned some cherry stock down to the correct diameter, and carved out the shapes of the bulleyes with a parting tool. I then set the center with my spindle, and using a pin vice, with the lathe turning slow, drilled a hole down the center.  I drilled only through the first bullseye, and partly into the second one.  That kept the stock from splitting, and maintained my center for the next bullseye.
 
Then, leaving the pin vice drill bit in the hole, I carefully cut off the bullseye with my jewelers saw.  I cranked down the RPM to as slow as possible. Keeping the bit in the hole allowed me to collect the finished bulleye when the saw cut through.  It acutally worked.
 
Here are some photos.

Completed Bowsprit/jib Assembly

Bowsprit and Bowsprit Yard Assembly, Lashings and Preliminary Rigging.
 
Now that I have some bullseyes, I was able to prepare the Bowsprit, Jib and Bowsprit Yard for assembly and rigging.
 
I seized my bullseyes onto eyebolts and inserted them into the bow.
 
I created the brass collar for the jib and assembled the bowsprit.  I lashed the assembly with kit supplied rope.
 
I created the sling for the bowsprit yard and secured it to the bowsprit.
 
This weekend, I will continue to hang the remaining bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit assembly and once complete, attach it to the hull.
 
The pictures I show only have it set in place.
 
Very tedious and time consuming.  However, set in place makes this actually look like a real ship.

Scott,
 
Thanks for stopping in.
 
For my hatches, I cut blocks of balsa wood to the proper size of each, and used strip wood cut with 45 degree angles to wrap around the blocks.  This maintained proper size and kept them square. It also provided a solid base for assembly. As long as you don't glue the strip wood to the balsa block, it works. Once done, I glued a thin strip ledge for the grating. 
 
Hope this helps.

Completed Bowsprit/jib Assembly

Bowsprit and Bowsprit Yard Assembly, Lashings and Preliminary Rigging.
 
Now that I have some bullseyes, I was able to prepare the Bowsprit, Jib and Bowsprit Yard for assembly and rigging.
 
I seized my bullseyes onto eyebolts and inserted them into the bow.
 
I created the brass collar for the jib and assembled the bowsprit.  I lashed the assembly with kit supplied rope.
 
I created the sling for the bowsprit yard and secured it to the bowsprit.
 
This weekend, I will continue to hang the remaining bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit assembly and once complete, attach it to the hull.
 
The pictures I show only have it set in place.
 
Very tedious and time consuming.  However, set in place makes this actually look like a real ship.

Fellow Niagara builder, Mikiek and I were puttzing around the internet looking for rigging plans for our builds and we came across the Niagara Crew Handbook. This 175 page document has some interesting stuff. At the back are some diagrams including a detailed look at the Martingale Rigging, Pinrail Diagram, Deck Arrangement,  and Spar Plan.  Here is the link to the handbook.
 
 https://brigniagara.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/niagara-crew-handbook.pdf
 
I copied and scanned the diagrams if you just want those. 
 
This is of course of the modern ship, and would not be representative of the historic version.
Niagara ship plans.pdf

Fellow Niagara builder, Mikiek and I were puttzing around the internet looking for rigging plans for our builds and we came across the Niagara Crew Handbook. This 175 page document has some interesting stuff. At the back are some diagrams including a detailed look at the Martingale Rigging, Pinrail Diagram, Deck Arrangement,  and Spar Plan.  Here is the link to the handbook.
 
 https://brigniagara.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/niagara-crew-handbook.pdf
 
I copied and scanned the diagrams if you just want those. 
 
This is of course of the modern ship, and would not be representative of the historic version.
Niagara ship plans.pdf

Mike ,
 
That is a great looking light. I bet it is a lot easier to see your intricate rope work. 
 
All looks very fine.

Fellow Niagara builder, Mikiek and I were puttzing around the internet looking for rigging plans for our builds and we came across the Niagara Crew Handbook. This 175 page document has some interesting stuff. At the back are some diagrams including a detailed look at the Martingale Rigging, Pinrail Diagram, Deck Arrangement,  and Spar Plan.  Here is the link to the handbook.
 
 https://brigniagara.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/niagara-crew-handbook.pdf
 
I copied and scanned the diagrams if you just want those. 
 
This is of course of the modern ship, and would not be representative of the historic version.
Niagara ship plans.pdf

Mike ,
 
That is a great looking light. I bet it is a lot easier to see your intricate rope work. 
 
All looks very fine.

Mark, Mike, Elijah. Mike and Joel,
 
Thanks for the heads up on the rigging plan. Thanks for all the likes as well.
 
I feel like I should install the hammock rails first. Thoughts?

Deck Furniture, Cleats and Eyebolts,
 
I am working hard to complete sheet 3 from the plans which should clear the way to begin rigging the ship. My “odds and ends” have taken over a week, and I am still not finished.
 
I decided to finally glue down all of the deck furniture that I built.  I had to construct the capstan.  It was an intricate piece (of course what isn’t). Small parts, fine painting with red, green and black, and a brass ring on top with blackened pin heads for carriage bolts.  The ring was a challenge. After trying to cut it out by hand (could not get the inside diameter round enough), I decided to wedge the brass sheet between two pieces of hard maple and drilled a hole with a sharp ½ inch drill bit.  I then cut the outside diameter with some tin snips. After about 4 tries, I got one that passed inspection.
 
I then glued down the pump, capstan, skylights and companionway.  I had to deal with the deck crowding. Joel brought to my attention how the plans have the capstan wedged between the main skylight and companionway such that you could never have room to operate it. He is also of the opinion that the original ship did not have the deck buildings. To compromise, I decided to mount just the main skylight and companionway and such that there is more room around the capstan. I left the captain’s skylight out.  I gave my captain his own companionway instead.
 
I also mounted all of the cleats and eyebolts on the inside bulwarks.  I used boxwood cleats from Syren. I had to sand all of the laser burn marks and soaked them in some cherry stain. I pinned them and attached them.
 
 
I also attached all of the eyebolts on the outside hull, most of which go to the bow. Still working on the smoke stack.
 
I am now faced with the Hammock rails.  I have surmised that I should install this before I rig the fore and main masts. That means 44 metal rails, and a lot of mental work figuring out how to construct adequate looking hammocks and canvas covers. I don’t have the material, so I will be making a trip to the craft store.  Any suggestions on the canvas material?????
 
Here are some photos of the work as of today.  I just realized that I have not included full size photos of the ship lately. The deck is starting to look like a real “busy” structure. I like how it has turned out so far.

Mark, Mike, Elijah. Mike and Joel,
 
Thanks for the heads up on the rigging plan. Thanks for all the likes as well.
 
I feel like I should install the hammock rails first. Thoughts?

Deck Furniture, Cleats and Eyebolts,
 
I am working hard to complete sheet 3 from the plans which should clear the way to begin rigging the ship. My “odds and ends” have taken over a week, and I am still not finished.
 
I decided to finally glue down all of the deck furniture that I built.  I had to construct the capstan.  It was an intricate piece (of course what isn’t). Small parts, fine painting with red, green and black, and a brass ring on top with blackened pin heads for carriage bolts.  The ring was a challenge. After trying to cut it out by hand (could not get the inside diameter round enough), I decided to wedge the brass sheet between two pieces of hard maple and drilled a hole with a sharp ½ inch drill bit.  I then cut the outside diameter with some tin snips. After about 4 tries, I got one that passed inspection.
 
I then glued down the pump, capstan, skylights and companionway.  I had to deal with the deck crowding. Joel brought to my attention how the plans have the capstan wedged between the main skylight and companionway such that you could never have room to operate it. He is also of the opinion that the original ship did not have the deck buildings. To compromise, I decided to mount just the main skylight and companionway and such that there is more room around the capstan. I left the captain’s skylight out.  I gave my captain his own companionway instead.
 
I also mounted all of the cleats and eyebolts on the inside bulwarks.  I used boxwood cleats from Syren. I had to sand all of the laser burn marks and soaked them in some cherry stain. I pinned them and attached them.
 
 
I also attached all of the eyebolts on the outside hull, most of which go to the bow. Still working on the smoke stack.
 
I am now faced with the Hammock rails.  I have surmised that I should install this before I rig the fore and main masts. That means 44 metal rails, and a lot of mental work figuring out how to construct adequate looking hammocks and canvas covers. I don’t have the material, so I will be making a trip to the craft store.  Any suggestions on the canvas material?????
 
Here are some photos of the work as of today.  I just realized that I have not included full size photos of the ship lately. The deck is starting to look like a real “busy” structure. I like how it has turned out so far.

Mark, Mike, Elijah. Mike and Joel,
 
Thanks for the heads up on the rigging plan. Thanks for all the likes as well.
 
I feel like I should install the hammock rails first. Thoughts?