6ohiocav

Mike,
 
It looks like you are using single blocks on both ends.  I am using single and doubles. I seize the looped rigging rope to my single blocks when I strop the hook (see the photos on post 99). The photos just above are from the double blocks that don't get the rigging rope.
 
I start my rigging by attaching the single block to the gun, then run the rigging rope to the double block hooked to the bulwark, then back to the sheave hole in the single block, then back to the double, then loose to be coiled.
 
I ran out of rigging rope after making 50 looped strands.  I am waiting on a new supply from Syren.
 
With this process, I am getting 25 blocks done in just over an hour.  However, the most important advice I can give is that after I work my way through a set of 25 blocks, I take a break and strop my favorite cold one and rest my eyes and brain. I finally see some light at the end of the tunnel.
 
One consolation - the end products are really neat looking. Syren makes an incredibly great product, and since I understand that they are each made by hand, who am I to complain how hard they are to strop.

Stropping a 3mm block
 
I thought I would post a practicum on how I stropped the 3mm blocks with a 3mm hook.  Not because I am an experienced modeler - far from it - but because when you have to do something 180 times, you figure out some things. Everything I did, I learned from the masters on the site.  I combined some things and used techniques that worked for me.
 
A list first and some annotated photos.
 
1. I work on 25 at a time. I purchased my blocks from Syren, and the packs come in groups of 25.
 
2. Cut 25 strands of .008 black rope in about 3 inch lengths. Don't worry about how long they are because you will be reusing them. The longer the easier they will be to handle.
 
3. Place a drop of super thin CA on a plastic top and role one side of the rope (about 5mm) to freeze the end.  You are going to use this end to thread through the hook. Do all 25 at the same time.  It saves on your glue.
 
4. Place your block in a jig.  I use the ends of two small pins embedded in a block of hardwood.
 
5. Place a drop of medium CA on your plastic and role the tip (about 1mm) of the other end of your rope in the glue, making sure you don't pick up too much.
 
6.Apply the glued end in the groove of the block placing it half up the bottom end of the block. Tap it lightly with an exacto blade enough to seat it. It will only take a second or two for the glue to hold the end in place then let go and let it hang.
 
7. After a few more seconds, press a metal flat surface against the glued end to push it more into the groove.  I use the butt end of my exacto knife.
 
8. I then immediately pinch the rope against the bottom of the block.  If you don't, some of the glue may straighten out the rope and make it harder to wrap it around the block later on when it fully dries.
 
9. I then remove the block from the jig to let dry.  I do this 25 times.
 
10. I then reinsert the block with the rope tail hanging straight down back into the jig.
 
11. I pull the rope around the back and up the block holding it in my right hand and with the tweezers in my left, thread the frozen rope through a hook.
 
12. I then pull the rope tight positioning the hook to the top of the block with the tweezers.
 
13. I then lift up the rope slightly and apply a drop of medium CS with a push pin.
 
14. I pull the rope down into the groove while repositioning the hook in the proper position. I then squeeze the rope in the groove with the tweezers.
 
15. After at least 15 seconds of drying, I then firmly press the sharp edge of a new exacto knife blade (this has to be very sharp) against the union position on the block and pull the rope straight up against the knife and cut off the end.  If the blade is sharp enough, just raising the rope against the blade will cut it.
 
16. keep the cut ends.  You are going to reuse them for the next 25 and the next 25 and the... you get the picture.
 
16. Then do this another 179 more times.
 
Here are some photos.
 
 

This is what guided my decision to use a double block at the bulwark.

This is what guided my decision to use a double block at the bulwark.

Mike,
 
It looks like you are using single blocks on both ends.  I am using single and doubles. I seize the looped rigging rope to my single blocks when I strop the hook (see the photos on post 99). The photos just above are from the double blocks that don't get the rigging rope.
 
I start my rigging by attaching the single block to the gun, then run the rigging rope to the double block hooked to the bulwark, then back to the sheave hole in the single block, then back to the double, then loose to be coiled.
 
I ran out of rigging rope after making 50 looped strands.  I am waiting on a new supply from Syren.
 
With this process, I am getting 25 blocks done in just over an hour.  However, the most important advice I can give is that after I work my way through a set of 25 blocks, I take a break and strop my favorite cold one and rest my eyes and brain. I finally see some light at the end of the tunnel.
 
One consolation - the end products are really neat looking. Syren makes an incredibly great product, and since I understand that they are each made by hand, who am I to complain how hard they are to strop.

Stropping a 3mm block
 
I thought I would post a practicum on how I stropped the 3mm blocks with a 3mm hook.  Not because I am an experienced modeler - far from it - but because when you have to do something 180 times, you figure out some things. Everything I did, I learned from the masters on the site.  I combined some things and used techniques that worked for me.
 
A list first and some annotated photos.
 
1. I work on 25 at a time. I purchased my blocks from Syren, and the packs come in groups of 25.
 
2. Cut 25 strands of .008 black rope in about 3 inch lengths. Don't worry about how long they are because you will be reusing them. The longer the easier they will be to handle.
 
3. Place a drop of super thin CA on a plastic top and role one side of the rope (about 5mm) to freeze the end.  You are going to use this end to thread through the hook. Do all 25 at the same time.  It saves on your glue.
 
4. Place your block in a jig.  I use the ends of two small pins embedded in a block of hardwood.
 
5. Place a drop of medium CA on your plastic and role the tip (about 1mm) of the other end of your rope in the glue, making sure you don't pick up too much.
 
6.Apply the glued end in the groove of the block placing it half up the bottom end of the block. Tap it lightly with an exacto blade enough to seat it. It will only take a second or two for the glue to hold the end in place then let go and let it hang.
 
7. After a few more seconds, press a metal flat surface against the glued end to push it more into the groove.  I use the butt end of my exacto knife.
 
8. I then immediately pinch the rope against the bottom of the block.  If you don't, some of the glue may straighten out the rope and make it harder to wrap it around the block later on when it fully dries.
 
9. I then remove the block from the jig to let dry.  I do this 25 times.
 
10. I then reinsert the block with the rope tail hanging straight down back into the jig.
 
11. I pull the rope around the back and up the block holding it in my right hand and with the tweezers in my left, thread the frozen rope through a hook.
 
12. I then pull the rope tight positioning the hook to the top of the block with the tweezers.
 
13. I then lift up the rope slightly and apply a drop of medium CS with a push pin.
 
14. I pull the rope down into the groove while repositioning the hook in the proper position. I then squeeze the rope in the groove with the tweezers.
 
15. After at least 15 seconds of drying, I then firmly press the sharp edge of a new exacto knife blade (this has to be very sharp) against the union position on the block and pull the rope straight up against the knife and cut off the end.  If the blade is sharp enough, just raising the rope against the blade will cut it.
 
16. keep the cut ends.  You are going to reuse them for the next 25 and the next 25 and the... you get the picture.
 
16. Then do this another 179 more times.
 
Here are some photos.
 
 

Finished gluing down and rigging the port site carronade carriages.

Carronade Rigging
 
I finally started rigging the guns. And as soon as I started, I ran into a problem. The kit calls for a .31 breech line, but does not supply it.  The closest is a .28 black and a .28 buff, at least according to the parts list.  When I looked at the rope provided, I can't really tell what is what. In any case, the largest buff rope looks too small to me.
 
So, I took a trip to the craft store and picked up a role of what I thought was a buff colored rope that appeared to be the proper diameter.  When I got it home, I tried it out.  I siezed a ring on one end, fished the other end through the rings and the back of the barrel, and siezed the other ring.  With rings tied on "off the ship", I twisted some .28 gage black wire around each ring and glued it into the previously drilled holes in the bulwarks.
 
I decided to have the barrels brought out "some." I then rigged the blocks.
 
As I look at the first gun, I am not sure I like the breech line.  It looks to "white." So, I decided to stop and it would appear that I will be ordering some more rope. I decide to glue down the carriages on the starboard side and rigged the blocks on those. I very much like the Syren 3mm blocks.  They look very authentic. What a difference from the square shaped ones in the kit.
 
Here are some photos. Opinions are welcome.

Mike,
 
I guess it is not real clear, but here is the portion of the plan I was thinking of. This is put into perspective when you see pictures of the actual ship. I am sending a few courtesy of our friend  John Texxn5.
 
I posted a practicum of how I stropped my 180 blocks. It might help some.
 
Happy building

Mike,
 
Looks great.  Thanks for the tutorial. Once again, your trials are my tribulations.
 
In answer to your last question, I believe the plans call for an extra short plank that is attached to the outside hull for the hawse hole.  I am not at the workshop, or I would shoot you an image.
 
What size rope are you using for the cable?

Joel,
 
Since I have the same question, can I get a clarification.
 
You indicated that "The end is belayed to the foot of the foremast so it doesn't run out". Is that Above the deck, or below? If it is ABOVE, do we run the cable into the hatch, and then back out to belay to the mast? That then begs the question of how we should belay it (what type of knot). Obviously, if it is below, then we simply dump the cable into the hatch.
 
Also, on the historic ship, wouldn't the cable be attached to its own bit below deck, and wouldn't there be a capstan or other device in the bow below deck (or above) to haul it?
 
Mike,
 
What size rope are you using for the cable? Is it a kit supplied product.  I don't believe I have a thick enough black rope from the kit to accomplish this.

Stropping a 3mm block
 
I thought I would post a practicum on how I stropped the 3mm blocks with a 3mm hook.  Not because I am an experienced modeler - far from it - but because when you have to do something 180 times, you figure out some things. Everything I did, I learned from the masters on the site.  I combined some things and used techniques that worked for me.
 
A list first and some annotated photos.
 
1. I work on 25 at a time. I purchased my blocks from Syren, and the packs come in groups of 25.
 
2. Cut 25 strands of .008 black rope in about 3 inch lengths. Don't worry about how long they are because you will be reusing them. The longer the easier they will be to handle.
 
3. Place a drop of super thin CA on a plastic top and role one side of the rope (about 5mm) to freeze the end.  You are going to use this end to thread through the hook. Do all 25 at the same time.  It saves on your glue.
 
4. Place your block in a jig.  I use the ends of two small pins embedded in a block of hardwood.
 
5. Place a drop of medium CA on your plastic and role the tip (about 1mm) of the other end of your rope in the glue, making sure you don't pick up too much.
 
6.Apply the glued end in the groove of the block placing it half up the bottom end of the block. Tap it lightly with an exacto blade enough to seat it. It will only take a second or two for the glue to hold the end in place then let go and let it hang.
 
7. After a few more seconds, press a metal flat surface against the glued end to push it more into the groove.  I use the butt end of my exacto knife.
 
8. I then immediately pinch the rope against the bottom of the block.  If you don't, some of the glue may straighten out the rope and make it harder to wrap it around the block later on when it fully dries.
 
9. I then remove the block from the jig to let dry.  I do this 25 times.
 
10. I then reinsert the block with the rope tail hanging straight down back into the jig.
 
11. I pull the rope around the back and up the block holding it in my right hand and with the tweezers in my left, thread the frozen rope through a hook.
 
12. I then pull the rope tight positioning the hook to the top of the block with the tweezers.
 
13. I then lift up the rope slightly and apply a drop of medium CS with a push pin.
 
14. I pull the rope down into the groove while repositioning the hook in the proper position. I then squeeze the rope in the groove with the tweezers.
 
15. After at least 15 seconds of drying, I then firmly press the sharp edge of a new exacto knife blade (this has to be very sharp) against the union position on the block and pull the rope straight up against the knife and cut off the end.  If the blade is sharp enough, just raising the rope against the blade will cut it.
 
16. keep the cut ends.  You are going to reuse them for the next 25 and the next 25 and the... you get the picture.
 
16. Then do this another 179 more times.
 
Here are some photos.
 
 

Mike,
 
I agree that doing the platforms first ended up being a good idea. Since I did not have the right breeching rope, it came about out of necessity as opposed to a defined plan. Building from the ground up however is always a good idea. I just would have never thought of it in the case.
 
The breeching lines are all loose, and holding nicely. It is rather quite amazing that the tackles really work as they should, albeit in micro. A real tribute to the quality of the Syren blocks.  I am totally sold.  As soon as I decide what to do about the tails (coils or faux coils), and as soon as all of the guns are mounted, I will freeze the lines and the hooks. At least that is the plan.
 
Funny you should ask about the pins.  I ended up using simple straight pins that I blackened.  At first, I decided to cut them in half, and actually use them to secure the carriages,  To do that, I had to drill the holes deeper in the planksheer.  Since the cap rail interfered, they were at a slight angle. I scratched away the paint from the bottom of the gun port, placed a dab of medium CA on the bare wood and a bit of glue on the tip of the pin and a wee bit on the bottom of both wheels on the back of the carriage, and put it in place.  Getting the pin to seat however was difficult, and I did not have a lot of time. In the end, I had to push the pin with the back of a metal punch, using way too much pressure than I was comfortable with.
 
I then decided to cut the pins shorter, and even after that, to cut them to about 1mm below the carriage, so it simply sat in the pre-drilled hole in the planksheer. The CA was enough to secure the carriages, making the pins more decorative than functional.  Even though my deck is finished in poly, the CA on the wheels has secured them sufficiently to the deck, and there is no trace of any glue. Unless my ship takes a broadside, I feel confident that the carriages will remain secure.
 
In the end, moving way down the scale to 3mm blocks and .008 tackle rope and securing the quality parts from Syren was the right choice.  Following your suggestion, along with Brian's and others to downsize on the blocks and rope for the guns was a good one.  They look very authentic, to scale, and there is plenty of room between the blocks.  The kit supplied blocks are way too large, and completely out of scale. Of course that comes at a cost. My eyes have been strained to the limit spending hours working with these incredibly small blocks.  Stropping them and threading rope through the even smaller holes is a real chore.  And I still have about 50 more to do. 
 
In the end, I am very happy with the look.  So, worth the effort.  Thanks for all of the good advice.
 
 
 
I am just waiting for the breeching line to complete this task.

Finished gluing down and rigging the port site carronade carriages.

Stropping a 3mm block
 
I thought I would post a practicum on how I stropped the 3mm blocks with a 3mm hook.  Not because I am an experienced modeler - far from it - but because when you have to do something 180 times, you figure out some things. Everything I did, I learned from the masters on the site.  I combined some things and used techniques that worked for me.
 
A list first and some annotated photos.
 
1. I work on 25 at a time. I purchased my blocks from Syren, and the packs come in groups of 25.
 
2. Cut 25 strands of .008 black rope in about 3 inch lengths. Don't worry about how long they are because you will be reusing them. The longer the easier they will be to handle.
 
3. Place a drop of super thin CA on a plastic top and role one side of the rope (about 5mm) to freeze the end.  You are going to use this end to thread through the hook. Do all 25 at the same time.  It saves on your glue.
 
4. Place your block in a jig.  I use the ends of two small pins embedded in a block of hardwood.
 
5. Place a drop of medium CA on your plastic and role the tip (about 1mm) of the other end of your rope in the glue, making sure you don't pick up too much.
 
6.Apply the glued end in the groove of the block placing it half up the bottom end of the block. Tap it lightly with an exacto blade enough to seat it. It will only take a second or two for the glue to hold the end in place then let go and let it hang.
 
7. After a few more seconds, press a metal flat surface against the glued end to push it more into the groove.  I use the butt end of my exacto knife.
 
8. I then immediately pinch the rope against the bottom of the block.  If you don't, some of the glue may straighten out the rope and make it harder to wrap it around the block later on when it fully dries.
 
9. I then remove the block from the jig to let dry.  I do this 25 times.
 
10. I then reinsert the block with the rope tail hanging straight down back into the jig.
 
11. I pull the rope around the back and up the block holding it in my right hand and with the tweezers in my left, thread the frozen rope through a hook.
 
12. I then pull the rope tight positioning the hook to the top of the block with the tweezers.
 
13. I then lift up the rope slightly and apply a drop of medium CS with a push pin.
 
14. I pull the rope down into the groove while repositioning the hook in the proper position. I then squeeze the rope in the groove with the tweezers.
 
15. After at least 15 seconds of drying, I then firmly press the sharp edge of a new exacto knife blade (this has to be very sharp) against the union position on the block and pull the rope straight up against the knife and cut off the end.  If the blade is sharp enough, just raising the rope against the blade will cut it.
 
16. keep the cut ends.  You are going to reuse them for the next 25 and the next 25 and the... you get the picture.
 
16. Then do this another 179 more times.
 
Here are some photos.
 
 

Finished gluing down and rigging the port site carronade carriages.

Mike,
 
I guess it is not real clear, but here is the portion of the plan I was thinking of. This is put into perspective when you see pictures of the actual ship. I am sending a few courtesy of our friend  John Texxn5.
 
I posted a practicum of how I stropped my 180 blocks. It might help some.
 
Happy building

Mike,
 
I agree that doing the platforms first ended up being a good idea. Since I did not have the right breeching rope, it came about out of necessity as opposed to a defined plan. Building from the ground up however is always a good idea. I just would have never thought of it in the case.
 
The breeching lines are all loose, and holding nicely. It is rather quite amazing that the tackles really work as they should, albeit in micro. A real tribute to the quality of the Syren blocks.  I am totally sold.  As soon as I decide what to do about the tails (coils or faux coils), and as soon as all of the guns are mounted, I will freeze the lines and the hooks. At least that is the plan.
 
Funny you should ask about the pins.  I ended up using simple straight pins that I blackened.  At first, I decided to cut them in half, and actually use them to secure the carriages,  To do that, I had to drill the holes deeper in the planksheer.  Since the cap rail interfered, they were at a slight angle. I scratched away the paint from the bottom of the gun port, placed a dab of medium CA on the bare wood and a bit of glue on the tip of the pin and a wee bit on the bottom of both wheels on the back of the carriage, and put it in place.  Getting the pin to seat however was difficult, and I did not have a lot of time. In the end, I had to push the pin with the back of a metal punch, using way too much pressure than I was comfortable with.
 
I then decided to cut the pins shorter, and even after that, to cut them to about 1mm below the carriage, so it simply sat in the pre-drilled hole in the planksheer. The CA was enough to secure the carriages, making the pins more decorative than functional.  Even though my deck is finished in poly, the CA on the wheels has secured them sufficiently to the deck, and there is no trace of any glue. Unless my ship takes a broadside, I feel confident that the carriages will remain secure.
 
In the end, moving way down the scale to 3mm blocks and .008 tackle rope and securing the quality parts from Syren was the right choice.  Following your suggestion, along with Brian's and others to downsize on the blocks and rope for the guns was a good one.  They look very authentic, to scale, and there is plenty of room between the blocks.  The kit supplied blocks are way too large, and completely out of scale. Of course that comes at a cost. My eyes have been strained to the limit spending hours working with these incredibly small blocks.  Stropping them and threading rope through the even smaller holes is a real chore.  And I still have about 50 more to do. 
 
In the end, I am very happy with the look.  So, worth the effort.  Thanks for all of the good advice.
 
 
 
I am just waiting for the breeching line to complete this task.

Finished gluing down and rigging the port site carronade carriages.

Mike,
 
Looks great.  Thanks for the tutorial. Once again, your trials are my tribulations.
 
In answer to your last question, I believe the plans call for an extra short plank that is attached to the outside hull for the hawse hole.  I am not at the workshop, or I would shoot you an image.
 
What size rope are you using for the cable?

Mike,
 
Sorry for the delay in responding.  Perhaps you have already attempted to drill the holes, but this is clearly a job for a pin vice drill.  I would not touch this thing with anything that is powered. I love Joel's idea of guide holes.  Easy to repair if they show up in the wrong spot. Fortunately, this is a place where the soft basswood is a good thing.
 
Looking forward to the pictures.  I am once again sailing in your wake, and may turn to this project while I wait for additional stores from the quartermaster on my ship.
 
By the way, my kit does not have anything at all that looks like a hawse pipe.

Mike,
 
I agree that doing the platforms first ended up being a good idea. Since I did not have the right breeching rope, it came about out of necessity as opposed to a defined plan. Building from the ground up however is always a good idea. I just would have never thought of it in the case.
 
The breeching lines are all loose, and holding nicely. It is rather quite amazing that the tackles really work as they should, albeit in micro. A real tribute to the quality of the Syren blocks.  I am totally sold.  As soon as I decide what to do about the tails (coils or faux coils), and as soon as all of the guns are mounted, I will freeze the lines and the hooks. At least that is the plan.
 
Funny you should ask about the pins.  I ended up using simple straight pins that I blackened.  At first, I decided to cut them in half, and actually use them to secure the carriages,  To do that, I had to drill the holes deeper in the planksheer.  Since the cap rail interfered, they were at a slight angle. I scratched away the paint from the bottom of the gun port, placed a dab of medium CA on the bare wood and a bit of glue on the tip of the pin and a wee bit on the bottom of both wheels on the back of the carriage, and put it in place.  Getting the pin to seat however was difficult, and I did not have a lot of time. In the end, I had to push the pin with the back of a metal punch, using way too much pressure than I was comfortable with.
 
I then decided to cut the pins shorter, and even after that, to cut them to about 1mm below the carriage, so it simply sat in the pre-drilled hole in the planksheer. The CA was enough to secure the carriages, making the pins more decorative than functional.  Even though my deck is finished in poly, the CA on the wheels has secured them sufficiently to the deck, and there is no trace of any glue. Unless my ship takes a broadside, I feel confident that the carriages will remain secure.
 
In the end, moving way down the scale to 3mm blocks and .008 tackle rope and securing the quality parts from Syren was the right choice.  Following your suggestion, along with Brian's and others to downsize on the blocks and rope for the guns was a good one.  They look very authentic, to scale, and there is plenty of room between the blocks.  The kit supplied blocks are way too large, and completely out of scale. Of course that comes at a cost. My eyes have been strained to the limit spending hours working with these incredibly small blocks.  Stropping them and threading rope through the even smaller holes is a real chore.  And I still have about 50 more to do. 
 
In the end, I am very happy with the look.  So, worth the effort.  Thanks for all of the good advice.
 
 
 
I am just waiting for the breeching line to complete this task.

Finished gluing down and rigging the port site carronade carriages.

Your right Mike.  The picture is a little fuzzy, but the rope is as well.  It is a cotton blend. Just not adequate. Replacing that one will be somewhat of a challenge, since the eyebolts are glued in.  I will figure that one out when I get some new rope.

Carronade Rigging
 
I finally started rigging the guns. And as soon as I started, I ran into a problem. The kit calls for a .31 breech line, but does not supply it.  The closest is a .28 black and a .28 buff, at least according to the parts list.  When I looked at the rope provided, I can't really tell what is what. In any case, the largest buff rope looks too small to me.
 
So, I took a trip to the craft store and picked up a role of what I thought was a buff colored rope that appeared to be the proper diameter.  When I got it home, I tried it out.  I siezed a ring on one end, fished the other end through the rings and the back of the barrel, and siezed the other ring.  With rings tied on "off the ship", I twisted some .28 gage black wire around each ring and glued it into the previously drilled holes in the bulwarks.
 
I decided to have the barrels brought out "some." I then rigged the blocks.
 
As I look at the first gun, I am not sure I like the breech line.  It looks to "white." So, I decided to stop and it would appear that I will be ordering some more rope. I decide to glue down the carriages on the starboard side and rigged the blocks on those. I very much like the Syren 3mm blocks.  They look very authentic. What a difference from the square shaped ones in the kit.
 
Here are some photos. Opinions are welcome.