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reklein

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Posts posted by reklein

  1. If you are doing crosscuts specially long ones you should NOT be using your RIP fence. The wood will bind as you near the end of a cut and splinter the wood or worse yet throw the cut off piece. To do identical crosscuts you can tape a block to the fence to mark your cut then slide the work through the blade so that the cutoff is free to move away from the blade a little. Also you should be pushing you wood through the blade with your miter gauge. To do cuts longer than the table you might be able to make or use a device that will hold a starting block where you want to make your cut. BILL

  2. Well ,I guess any more recommendations are moot at this point. But I have the MicroMark sander and it works good if one is patient. If you try to force it,it will just heat up and shut down. One improvement I made was to take out the height adjuster, drill a hole in the hex head and tap in a small roll pin so that I could tell by feel how much I was trying to take off.I forgot what the thread size is but you can guess fairly accurately what you're taking off. Also you should have a micrometer handy. I'm sure I have saved the price of the strip wood I have used y making it myself.  BILL

  3. I have the sander/beltsander from MicroMark and am satisfied with it. I've used it to build more than 25 Ho train turnouts.I use it primarily to grind down the nickel silver rails.I'm still on the original belt. The dust is minimal if you use the grinder with a vaccum cleaner. I have a cheap little shop vac set up with a switch that turns on the vac when you fire up the grinder. The vac runs for a few seconds after you turn off the grinder then shuts down automatically. I got the the fancy switch at Woodcraft. Bill in Idaho

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