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reklein

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Posts posted by reklein

  1. Scroll saws are very handy for the hobbyist. Get one that takes pinless blades for sure. Much more variety in blade types. You'll find that there are a lot of projects beside ship models that can be done with a scroll saw. If the wife and kids have any interest at all they'll be able to do craft projects galore with a scroll saw.BILL

  2. Well I would say the more frames the more accurate the hull will be. In warships the frames were heavy and only a few inches apart. In say a fishing boat maybe a foot apart. One thing you could do would be to show false frames where you intend to show them through the planking. I've seen example models on this forum where the modeler has blocked in between every frame to ensure a fair hull.   BILL

  3. Looks like your link works fine. These big models are really able to show us the details that disappear even in 1-200 scale anad forget about 1-350. However not many people have room in their living room for an 18 foot long model ship.

      I really like all the binoculars on the bridge and that collection of electrical boxes on the inside of the splinter shields. Things like those can only be done when you have a team of volunteers to take on various projects within a project.  

     

      In Jan.1964 when I was in Navy basic training in Great lakes, Illinois.  I was for two weeks MAA in a recreation hall. In the main lobby were about four examples of 1-48 scale Battleships in cases down the center.I didn't have much time to gawk at them but when I did they were absolutely fascinating.

       Great work and thanks again for posting. Bill

  4. Red cedar and Alaska yellow cedar both make good carving wood for larger scale stuff. It would make great wood for bread and butter hulls. Classic cedar strip canoes are made from good wood. Like any other wood, if its knotty and gnarly its firewood. The dust from cedar can be sorta toxic to some folks like me and I also have to use a mask when working it. Also the sawdust from hand sanding seems to form tiny slivers in my fingers and make little blisters which are annoying. I'd sort through that stack and cull the kinky stuff out. But seeing that the OP is over a year old you've probably figured that all out by now. Bill in Idaho

  5. Hey Louie, Just to throw another stick on the fire. I took a little three day woodturning course a few years back, the "experts" there said to avoid fruitwood as it is unstable due to the annual movement of the wood during its fruiit production stages. That is the weight of the fruit flexes the wood. On the other hand fruitwoods are fairly colorful, and cherry is one of the best. On milling your own wood, its really satisfying to produce miniature lumber from collected stock,if nothing else you will realize why the hobby wood sales folks price there stock the way they do. You''l probably lose about half to sawdust. Have fun and keep the "chooks in the pen. Bill in Idaho

  6. I'm wondering how close the Sterling C-2 cargo ship is to a Victory ship. I have a Sterling hull I built and am thinking of turning it into a Haskell class ship. I'd probably be the only person around who'd know any difference. One could call a rose an onion if one was introducing it to a new crowd. :) There's a lot of history on these on the web. Too much for me to sort out ad I sorta have a mix of prototypes going here in this one model. Don't tell anyone though.  Bill

  7. I'm using CA and kicker. I apply the CA, join the parts, and apply a very small amount of the kicker with the bottom end of the kicker sprayer pickup tube. Probably a small glass rod would be a better applicator but if I need a squirt of kicker the sprayer is handy. This method gives me a little time to adjust the position of the parts to be joined. I always keep thin,thicker and gel CA on hand. It would be nice to have three hands for this operation.  Bill

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