etubino

Eimer sind aber echt Geil Dafi!!!! Deswegen ist Dafisimus!!
 
Buckets are outstanding Dafi!

Thank you druxey for your confimation. Very appreciated!
 
A little project in between, the Vic's fire buckets on the railing of the cabin deck.





And since the good pieces are made of leather and not metal, I gave them a little deformation as a little dafinistic touch.



XXXDAn

Here is attempt number 2. I think I am getting closer, but even with the higher resolution photo, it is hard to tell what exactly the art on the transom is depicting.

Part of my problem is my transom is not exactly the same shape as the one in the painting so I can't just do an exact 1 to 1. And I have no idea what the middle is meant to be where the port is partially covering it.
 
Maybe a few more practice versions...

Log #35: Cannons and Other Fittings
Thank you everyone for stopping by and all the encouragement.
 
I attached the deadeyes to the hull. I can’t remember which build log I saw this in, but in it they temporarily attached a piece of string to the mast at the correct height to get the right angle. Since that seemed a good method I copied it.

I also received some wooden belaying pins from crafty sailor which are a bit more to scale than the PE ones in the kit. I painted them black as I felt that produced the best contrast.

I also decided I would depart from the kit arrangement for the stove pipe. Using some random pieces of plastic from my bits box I was able to construct something roughly the scale depicted in Goodwin. Conveniently I found some pieces that had rivets on them (I think from a tank armour plate or something like that) and was able to use them to match up with the drawings in Goodwin.

I also took some scrap pear to make a moulding around it. Once completed I painted it black and then for the stove pipe I edge highlighted with a dark metallic paint to give the illusion of metal. I also picked out the rivets with this colour.

For the cannons I began by priming them black (I did this a few weeks ago in the massive painting session). I then did a heavy dry brush of vallejo german grey (a dark grey) from the top and the sides. Dry brushing is a great technique for cannons as it produces a rough finish which allows us to somewhat simulate the uneven surface of a cast iron cannon. If you are interested in the technique I would recommend looking it up on youtube (there are many videos on the subject). However I will describe the process briefly.

First I take a small makeup brush (I just get them at the dollar store) and stick it in the paint filling up the brush. It is important that you do not wet the brush first. Then take an old tshirt and brush until very little comes off the brush. We then with a light quick motion brush on the cannon. You can see the effect of this below:

Notice how the recesses stay black while the exposed surfaces pick up the colour. I then proceeded to do two more dry brush layers. The first with a medium grey and then a final with a light grey covering less and less of the cannon each time. You have to be very careful as you use the lighter colours and really work to get the paint off the brush. Otherwise you will end up with too much paint on the cannon. The lightest colour should mostly be picking up the sharp upper edges.

This is what they looked like once they were done and below you can see one of the cannons on a carriage.

 

Log #34: The Pumps
I know I promised my next log would discuss the cannons, but I got distracted with a bit of a side project. In preparation for work on the cannons I had done a large blackening session.

I decided to play around with the pumps as I figured I could add a little more detail. First I cut a small piece of one of the smaller dowels and glued it to the side of the main dowel. I then drilled holes to simulate the spouts. To avoid the dowel splitting I drilled small holes and then slowly increased the size by drilling with progressively larger bits.

The painting process then proceeded as I have detailed in previous logs. You can see below what they looked like after I had blocked in the main highlights.

Once the painting was finished I used shrink tube to simulate the iron bands that Goodwin depicts in his book on Alert.

Finally I attached the PE and you can see below what they look like on the deck.

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. I went to my local hardware store and picked up some of the shrink tube. As you can see below it works perfectly.

I use black card or paper for my straps.

I also use it for Pintles and Gudgeons, door hinges and such.  I coat it with flat poly or acrylic.  A lot easier to work with than metal.
I have seen some people use black painters/masking tape, but it has a texture I don't care for.

Log #28: The Rudder
It has been a very long time since I updated this log. The reasons have been a combination of factors, but the main underlying reasons have been a lack of time and I was unsure how to proceed. So I was picking away at things, but didn’t have enough progress to really show here. In any case I am hopefully back on track and I hope that the next entry will not take as long to come as this one did.
 
For the rudder I wanted to try and modify it a bit from the kit to align more with the plans in Goodwin. I briefly considered scribing the various joints, but given how my last attempt at that went, and the only alternative being to reconstruct the whole rudder from scratch, I decided to largely stick with the kit as is. The only modification I made was to the tiller and how it joined the rudder.

After assembling the rudder and the tiller as indicated in the instructions, I filled in the cap on the rudder where the two were meant to join and then carefully cut out the appropriate joint. I had planned to also add the iron bands that are just above and below the joint, but shaping the scrap brass to fit exactly right was very hard and given my issues with super glue and blackened PE parts (which I will cover in my next log), I decided to skip this step.

I also attempted to shape and round the tiller so it went from angled where it joins the rudder assembly to round where it would be held by the helmsman.

Log #27: Fixing the Transom
It has been a while since I posted as a combination of having Covid, business at work and then being away on vacation seriously limited my modelling time.
 
As I discussed in my last post I made the painful decision to rip off the railing near the transom to raise the height of the bulwarks in this area to better match drawing in Goodwin and the Marshall painting. The first step was to adjust the moulding to determine the sheer line the railing should follow.

 
Next I glued two wedges made of the leftover lime planks to serve as the core of the bulkhead.

I then planked both sides with the leftover pear and carefully sanded it flush and shaped it to match the desired sheer. I also had to add small pieces to extend the length of the moulding.

With this done the brackets supporting the transom now go in a more natural position resting against the beam running over the top of the ports.

I also had to extend the length of the cap rail as it would no longer reach the transom. As the pieces were very thin, this proved somewhat of a challenge as I couldn’t just glue pieces on to the end. To solve this problem I found some scrap of the appropriate thickness and then used my chisels to cut a small recess in them to accept bridging piece of wood to strengthen the joint. Once dry I sanded the joint flush.

This gave me enough length to be able to fit the railing to the new bulkhead sheer. I then glued them in place.

Then some touchups were necessary to fix places where the paint had been damaged. In the end though it took a lot of extra work, I am pleased I went back and made the adjustments. I am much more satisfied with the result than I was before.

Log #26: One Step Forward, Two Steps Back
As I was preparing to attach the catheads I noticed a discrepancy between the stern of my model and the Marshall painting I had been referencing.

If you look at the stern you can see how the gap between the railing and the wales increases right after the last gun ports to rise to the top of the transom. This is what my model looks like:

I went back over the instructions and I had not missed any steps that I am aware of, but there is a discrepancy between where my bulkheads end and what the image and the instructions appear to think it should rise to. Doing some further digging, I noticed in @glennard2523‘s alert build log (though as far as I can tell he never comments on this) he added an additional wedge shaped strake at the stern rising from the last gun port to the transom. Though I can find no suggestion of this in the instructions, this would solve my problem and so with a somewhat heavy heart I removed all the railings at the stern and broke out the isopropyl to clean up the paint in that area…

 
Next log will be all about me trying to correct more of my mistakes :).
 

Log #25: The Cap Rail, Timberheads and Catheads
The cap rail proved relatively simple to install. I started by painting the pieces black as this would mean I would not have to try and get a brush into the hard to reach underside and potentially spill paint on the deck.

After painting I glued them on and then used fine grit sandpaper to smooth them down. I plan to touch up the paint once all the assembly of the rails etc are done. At this time I also painted and then installed the brackets at the upper counter. I used some spacers to ensure that they were level.

The timber heads were done in a style that did not appear to match the Marshall painting or what Goodwin indicated was used in this period. I figured this was an area I could add a little more detail so I simply trimmed them down to roughly match the depiction in the Marshall painting.

Some minor adjustments were necessary to make sure the rail joined the upper counter properly, but for the most part things went together without issue.

For the catheads I decided I would try adding sheaves to them in line with what @Blue Ensign did. Lacking a drill press this was pretty finicky work, but going slowly and carefully with lots of measuring and adjusting I was able to use a pin vice to drill out the holes for the sheaves. Crafty Sailor sells these thimbles which I should be able to use as sheaves once they have them back in stock.

I may have to make some small adjustments to the holes once I get the thimbles, but we will cross that road when I get there. For now I think adding the holes makes the catheads look better.

I came up with the oak-wash idea myself, essentially watering down a normal oak varnish with some water. Was really pleased with the overall look of the decking, as it will be the main bit that people will see on the completed model.
 
I added the skylight to the middle of the poop.

Fig 5: False poop deck and planking both the quarterdeck and the poop deck
 
This was a huge area of planking and given it was going to be oak-wash stained when I finished (and hence be covered up), I decided to cheat a little and plank in long lengths, using the same pilot pen used for the deck nail effect, on the upper gundeck below, to then ink in the butt shift effect and the deck nails on the quarterdeck planking.
 
I still used the bonded nylon along the edges between the planks to simulate the caulking.

Fig 3: Planking the false upper gun deck
 
So the fun and games then began and my first decision to deviate from the plans. Fig 3 just showed the gundeck being vaguely planked in some way and some sort of material being used as caulking.
 
I did some research online (though somehow still didn't manage to find this site) and decided I would purchase some bonded black nylon thread for my caulking and that I would cut the deck planking strips provided into 9cm lengths (seemed to replicate a reasonable plank length), such that they could be staggered at 3cm intervals and look like some sort of butt shift system.
 
I started down the centre-line and worked out to one side, finally cutting and shaping round the bulkheads. Then switched around and did the same the other side. The final touches were to paint the whole thing in red ochre (as I'd read about the decks being painted red to prevent the spilled blood distressing the crew) and to add some deck "nails", 2 at each end and 1 at each 3cm point along the lengths. This was done using a 0.5mm black pilot pen.
 
In hindsight (and having done lots more research and reading now) I realise I should have done a proper 3 or 4 butt system, as on the ship herself, but what's done is done.
 
It took a long time to do but I was very pleased with the effect created, even though a lot of this deck won't be seen once the quarterdeck is added later.

Fig 2B: Stern gallery basework

The lifts, sheets, buntlines and cluelines are now done on all 3 masts and the bowsprit.  Pictures attached.
 
Next step is braces.  It moves along more quickly once you get to the "real" rigging stage.
 
Regards,
David

Bowsprit yards done and mounted.  Pictures show bow-on view with some arrows added so the yards are more identifiable, and a top-down view.
 
Now the real rigging can start!
 
Regards,
David

Progress on the gun port lids: Second quarter of the vessel, completed !!! I am starting to develop a technique to go a little bit faster and install these in an easier way.
 

 

 

 

 

 
This side is now completely finished, as far as gun port lids go.... Still plenty of things to do....
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Overall view of the beast...
 

 
I will be travelling to Europe for an extended period of time and thus, it may be a while before the next update.
 
Yves

Installation of the skid beams and steps to climb aboard: 
 

 

 
The skid beams are used to protect the hull when loading and unloading the various boats. The two close beams can serve to guide barrels and other large bags, being loaded on the ship.
 

 
Installation of these beams was a little bit nerve wracking as I did not want to damage the rails and the freezes. 
 
After the beams, come the steps: 
 

 
These are made with 2 x 3 mm strips, carved in the correct shape of steps. Steps are 14 mm long and separated by about 1.5 mm.
The kit instructions calls for strips of 3 x 3 mm. I found that it would be too thick and not provide enough gaps between the steps. I think that the 2 (thickness)  x 3 (width) mm steps look more realistic.
 

 
It is very steep and some hand ropes seem necessary, to hold while climbing: 
 

 

 
Below is pretty much the view that you would have, disembarking from the ship. It is like going down a slippery ladder.... 
 

 
Now, I just have to redo the same on the other side....
 

 
Yves

4 x ladders constructed and installed. 

Lower deck canons installed. Resuming finishing and correcting some areas in need.

The small step before sanding sealer job ,I mentioned in the previous post , was the preparation of Pintle and Gudgeon brackets on the rudder and sternpost plus the brass bracket at the top of the rudder.
The brass sheets used for this purpose were 0.008 inch (0.2 mm) thick and 1/32 inch (1.6 mm) wide and were already in kit stock.

After careful location and size measurements , those brass strips were prepared and glued to their final positions. I decided  to drill out the holes for nail heads after the brass brackets were  glued and fixed. I used #70 drill bit with Dremel Micro handpiece. 
I started with the port side of the rudder and opened the holes without any complication.
However on the starboard side when drilling the holes for the lower two brackets, the underlaying wood was burned. This was probably due to the increased friction and thus heat by forcing the worn-out drill bit. I should have used a new one as soon as I felt the first signs of need to increase the force of the handpiece. So I used a new drill bit for the job on sternpost which was uneventful. The initial nail heads I used on the rudder seemed a bit large and popped out, so I changed them with smaller ones ( 0.2 mm less head diameter) later. The nail heads you see in the photos below are the final ones. The brass rod connecting the rudder and sternpost is temporary and for photographing purposes only.
Port side





Starboard side
 




 
 
 
 
 
 

Brief review:

21 November 1805: Nelson falls in an encounter with the French, famously off Trafalgar




21 November 2018: Nelson falls again at an encounter with the French, this time at Rochefort, falling into the hands of an unknown man who pressed him to an unknown destination. Here is the last picture just before the loss.




But first things first. This was the last stand of the too small steering wheel planking http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif




In the meantime, a larger piece of planking had already been built. Also more deck beams were already in place. But the beam to which the steering tackle is attached was pressed down a bit by the planks and the tackle became slack as a result. So once again entering deep into the guts ...




... and fixed the tackle so that I could be tightend after gluing the planking into place.




I even shortened a brush to be able to put the paint in the right place http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
The stub is there as the tackle doesn't run parallel due to the rudder drum.




And now it's time to be strong. It was the turn of Nelson and Hardy's new build. Nelson is a cross-dresser, as you can see. Surgically altered a bit, as they say.



The other guys have also arrived, the lieutenant with his speaking trumpet and the two helmsmen, dressed a little more formally than the rest of the crew. As we have very calm seas right now there are only 2 present.



And then they were already allowed onto their playfield.













And this time he came to stay, brave little Horatio!

XXXDAn  

Cutters Ver 2.5 continued
 
Not much time in the shipyard of late, though did spend the entire day in there today.  Don't seem to have much to show for it though.......
 
I have fitted the Risers for the Thwarts in both boats, made the Caprails, and given the interiors an undercoat of white Gesso in preparation for painting.
 
The Risers were relatively simple to install, using a piece of 1/32" x 3/32" scrap Pear stock as a spacer to achieve a consistent distance below the gunwales on both sides.  The Caprails were made in the same way as for the Pinnace, cutting them roughly to shape and then spot gluing them and sanding to final shape in situ.  The only drawback here was that I've run out of 1/64" Boxwood sheet, so used Cherry instead.  Quite a noticeable difference in how the two woods sand!  By comparison, the Cherry tends to be stringy and fuzzy along the edge, and is prone to splintering.  I forgot to take pictures of the Caprails before I unglued them with Isopropyl Alcohol. Painting with the Gesso gives a good base for the paint to grip.  In this case, I thinned the Gesso slightly - I really only wanted to just cover/seal the wood with it.
 
Here's a couple of progress shots - not very pretty in their "underwear" at the moment!  I took these more to test some different camera settings than for any other reason, but thought I may as well post them anyway.
 

 

 
Next task is painting the interior of the hulls in yellow ochre.  Still debating whether I'll break out the airbrush for this task - will wait to see how the mood takes me next weekend.
 
 

Thanks again for all the words of encouragement and support, and for all of the "likes".
 
A brief update today.
 
25' Cutters Ver 2.5 continued
 
This weekend I completed fitting all of the previously bent frames.  This was a relatively straight forward job, although more time consuming than I had anticipated.  I was pleased with the way the frames fitted into the hull shells, with only a modicum of persuasion required. The frames are all 1/32" sq Pear stock, with the exception of the last three frames in each boat. These are made of a double laminate of 1/32" x 1/64" Holly stock.
 
I decided to fit a couple of extra hogging pieces so that these now run the complete length of the keel from apron to stern deadwood.  This should make fitting the keelson/footwaling a little easier later on.  I also trimmed the stems to shape and sanded back the transoms.  In hindsight, I should have left the transoms a little higher and trimmed after fitting the cap rail. Oh well..........
 
A couple of pics of progress.  You will notice some discoloured powdery substance in some of the shots.  This is where I applied a small amount of filler where some of the glue joints were a bit bare.  Once this is cleaned up, the hulls will be painted, so it won't be visible.
 

 

 

 
I also fitted the gunwales:
 

 
I will fit the risers for the thwarts next, and then paint the hulls before continuing with fitting out.