FriedClams

Cap rail fore body.
Material - black hornbeam, after installing, I fixed it in place with 0,6 mm brass nails.

Top timbers are installed.

I have constructed the bulwarks.

I have finished sketching, I still have half of the broadside to be filled with treenails.

Treenails of the deck.
 
Unfortunately, I didn’t master the make using the syringe needle, after a few failed  tries I gave it up… I haven’t had enough patience. I decided to sharpen on the grinder. After some try-outs I opted for the pear tree instead of the toothpicks. D=0,6 mm.

I have finished the covering of the second broadside.
Sketching and putting treenail in place are still to be done. I’m still trying out on samples. As I will have to drill a lot, the manual drill will not be the best solution, I had to work on and upgrade my mini-drill. I bought it on flea-market a long time ago, but couldn’t find any use of it. Yesterday I installed a small switch and now I’m testing it.

Dear druxey,
Yes, you are right, making this decision wasn't easy, but I had an example of the outstanding Masters in front of me  and I really wanted to get even if for a little closer to their quality of work. In the end I was satisfied with the results, even though I had to redo my work many times. Plus I have gotten experience out of it.
 
 
Dear BETAQDAVE,
It's hard to give a definite answer on the choice of the method of making a hull. I found this method used by Snarlev, and at that moment I thought it was the easiest and the least labor consuming.When working on "Sperwer" I used a different method, and I could say that each one has its own advantages.
 
Dear KeithAug,
The covering was removed by means of heating by a hot air gun, it wasn't hard due to the fact that I used PVA glue.
 
 
My best regards, Alexander.

Well done for doing the planking over again! It's a hard decision, but one I'm sure you are glad of now.

Taking into account experience and mistakes.

As a result…

Rubbing strip and two upper belts I decided to make out of black hornbeam. It turned out to be a very technological material.

Following my photo –report – here are some photos. Covering.

Deck covering. Material – pear tree.

For a try, I oil- coated it without adding any wax.

After that inner components of quarter boat.

All guns now have cascabels:

I’ve noticed that the bigger guns are easier to carve.

All long 9’s are done!
 
Time to make the long 12’s!

The first of the 9 lb. cannon:
It’s far from perfect, but once it’s painted, it’ll be just fine.
 
By the way, all guns are going to have glass seed beads glued to their breeches for cascabels along the getting the breech eyebolts for the breeching rope.
 
The last picture is after I sanded it to clean it up a bit.

I’m up to 12 x 12 lb Carronades and 2 x 9 lb Long Guns:
 
2 more long 9’s and 2 long 12’s to go

I now have 12 x 12 Lb. Carronades.  
 
Next up, I need 4 x 9 Lb. Long Guns.

Be careful with those plans!
I tried to use them when making my little 3d model, and fallen for the fact that side and forward/back views show different gunport height, for example. And also they are somewhat different from "as taken" plan from NMM. So it can be a source of headache.

About the model:
As they say, "No time like the present" and as I'm stalled on Licorne by several non-hobby issues, I'm starting this one to take my mind off things.  I have the plans scaled down from 1:48 to 1:64 I'll be drafting plans for building the ship as the ANCRE monograph doesn't have drawings pre-made for such things a frames, keel, etc.
 
As the title states it will be a POB build as there's next to nothing in the plans of the below deck area. 
 
I'm making decisions at this point will working on lofting the bulkheads, keel, etc. on the types of woods.  Most likely I'll Swiss pear for the external planking, some ebony or ebony stained wood for the wales and other bits and pieces, boxwood for the keel, stern post, and bowspit.  Not sure yet about the decks.   As for the bulkheads and some internal bits that won't be seen, I'm deciding whether to use Baltic Birch plywood or Yellow Ceder.  It may come down to cost on this though.  I'll be using the DeathStar for at least marking the wood to be cut for the bulkheads but not ruling out cutting as that will depend on the wood selection.
 
I selected this ship as "next" as it was the more famous of the ships involved in the battle that brought the French into American Revolutionary War.   
 
Here's the history of Belle Poule and some pictures of the plans and the monograph.
 
La Belle Poule is a 12-pounder class of frigate with 26 12-pdrs on the gun deck and 10 6-pdrs on the forecastle and sterncastle.   
 
History:
 
La Belle Poule was built in the shipyard at Bordeaux starting in 1765 and launched in 1767.  \
 
From 1772 to 1776, she was on hydrographic missions around India.
 
She returned to Brest in 1776 .  At the time, France wasn't engaged in War, but there were numerous incidents.  
 
April, 1777, Belle Poule was chased by a British ship of the line (unknown which one) and after evading her, returned to Brest.
 
December, 1777, Belle Poule transported Silas Deane back to America along with the news of the French-American Alliance.
 
On 7 January, 1778, she was stopped by two Britich ships of the line which demanded to inspect her and her Captian, Charles de Bernard de Marigny replied:  "I am the Belle Poule, frigate of the King of France; I sail from sea and I sail to sea. Vessels of the King, my master, never allow inspections."
 
17 June, 1778.   The famous battle between Belle Poule and Arethusa occurred which was actually celebrated by both countries.  It was this battle that brought France into the American Revolutionary War.  Note that Licorne was captured by the British.
 
After this battle, she did numerous patrols.
 
14 July 1780.   Belle Poule was overhauled and after a two hour battle with Noncuch (64), she surrendered.
 
Feburary, 1781.  Belle Poule was commissioned by the British.   She participated in the Battle of Dogger Bank later that year.  A footnote is that her Master during this period was William Bligh.
 
November 1782.  Belle Poule went to ordinary and also served as a British recieving ship.  
 
1801.  She was sold off.
 
Plans, etc.
 
I'm using the following references:
 
Le Belle Poule Monograh by Boudriot and Berti
The Art of Ship Modeling by Frolich
and lastly, the only build log I could find that actually is showing the process unlike most that just show the finished ship:  https://5500.forumactif.org/t3216-la-belle-poule-de-1765-au-1-48-par-guydal
 
Anyway, a bit long winded but I'll be back when I have my cut sheets, plans, etc. ready and start making sawdust.
 

Gary - thank you for your kind comments. You too may ultimately possess tools of this quality if you save up your pocket money.
 
Michael, Pat, Vossiewolf - thank you for dropping in again.

I am calling the next series of posts "The Plankers Progress" - Chaucer is probably turning in his grave.
 
I am going to try to post this as I progress to give an idea of my (slow) progress. Here goes with the first 2 days of achievement:-
 
Before starting the planking I gave the hull a coat of one part PVA one part water. I did this to seal the balsa and give a better foundation for gluing the planks. Once dry i gave the hull a light sanding to remove the raised nap
 
Before starting I estimated the number of planks I needed. This turned out to be a bit disconcerting - circa 150 nearly all of which need to be shaped. I thought of the guy estimating the bricks for the great wall of China and decided that my task wasn't that bad after all.
 
I started at the deck level with 2 parallel planks and then it was into tapering all 4 planks in each layer. The bulwark planks will be added once the hull planking is complete. 
 
At the stern I attached a "keel" plank as an abutment for the hull planks as they curve and twist towards the stern. `The slight curve at the rudder end of the keel plank was formed after soaking it in boiling waster for a couple of minutes.


Because of the narrowness of the stern it didn't take many planks before the I was cutting the plank ends at a fine angle to abut the keel plank. The angle was established by laying the plank on the hull and marking the line with a fine razor saw. Where necessary the angle was corrected with a sanding stick. The plank transition on to the transom was roughly sanded - to be finished once the hull planking is complete.
 
I also did a bit of light sanding of the hull planks to test that they were going to sand flush.

I'm not sure why one plank is so dark - hope it will not be a problem later.
 
2 days progress looks small but inevitably progress was punctuated by drying interludes as each layer of planks dried - allowing the holding pins to be removed. 
 
Still a long way to go:-