FriedClams

Michael, yes the Foil paints are great for metal finishes. Here is a link to there selections.
 
http://www.krylon.com/products/premium-metallic/
 
I checked your build out and what a big model, I could not build anything that size in my workshop now. Great job and keep up the great work you are doing on it.
 
I heard form the company and the sitting figure will not be here until the 14th so I am moving ahead on the breastplate for the helmet. Unlike the helmet the breastplate will be all metal both brass and copper per the original.
 
First I developed a card stock pattern using the figure and then I formed the copper with a hole cut to match the shoulder ring and soldered them together. Once cooled and cleaned I final formed the copper shape to fit the figure. Next I used the card stock pattern and traced the outline to match the copper onto a 1/32" thick brass sheet and sawed out the shape. Using a small divider I traced the 3/32" inside edge and sawed it out. The brass ring was then annealed to soften and it was form fitted to match the copper and soldered in place. I turned and drilled the lead weight holders and soldered them to the front of the breastplate.
 
 
 

 

 
Next came the more challenging parts, the small wing nuts to hold the breast plate to the suit. I cut a V groove into a scrap piece of wood, set a 1/16" tube with two strips to either side and soldered them in place. Once cleaned with acetone the excess solder was removed form the joints. The edges of the side strips were held in a vise and filed down to 1/32". Then while held in the vise one side was sawed into 1/16" sections then turned over in the vise and the other side sawed to release each wing nut. Next I drilled 1/32" holes where needed and added 1/32" rods, slipped the nuts on and soldered them in place from the underside. Trimmed the rod ends and cleaned the entire breastplate.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now back to more writing.
 
 
 
 
 

Very nice fit Russ, won't have any trouble keeping these aligned when gluing up as they all seem to sit very square.  
 
cheers
Pat

There is a little more progress, but this is mostly because I have a new camera (the old one died) and I wanted to test it out. Not bad so far.
 
Nothing is glued up yet. This is all dry fitting. I have 7 more bulkhead frames to fit before I can begin gluing the profile former together.
 
Russ

Gary:
Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your own build. I look forward to seeing it.
 
Russ

Hello Pat,
 
What an interesting vessel and build this is going to be, and the progress to date is looking very nice indeed.  I admire your determination in turning over every rock and going down every rabbit hole looking for information and history on this ship.  That's a lot of work, but worth the effort - you're keeping history alive.  I look forward to watching your groups progress.
 
Gary 

Hello Russ,
 
I am so glad I found your build.  I am really attracted to fishing and other work boats of this era.  In fact, I'm in the planning stages of a 70' sardine carrier from 1940 - and it's a similar looking vessel to your lugger.  You're moving right along on this model and she's coming to life and looking great.  I wish you much success with this build.  Your other models are excellent BTW.  I'll be quietly in the back row taking notes.
 
Gary 

At the risk of boring anyone, here is the latest (and not much of it) progress in the framing. Bulkhead frames 1-5 have been cut and fitted into their slots in the profile former. Still some tweaking to do along the bearding line. I am going to fit all the bulkheads to make sure they slide in with just a little friction, but not glued in until the profile former pieces are glued together.
 
Bulkhead 5 will likely be replaced because during the fitting process, it broke right alongside the former and along the bulkhead's wood grain. I have another pattern glued up and I will probably recut that bulkhead tomorrow. I glued the bulkhead back together and the joint is solid enough, but I will have nightmares about it breaking during the final sanding before planking. If that happens, there will be the devil to pay. Better to recut it and not worry about that glue joint.
 
Russ

The next step is to cut out the pieces for the profile former. Although I could try and get the former out of a single piece, it is always possible/probable/likely that there will be a warp or twist that would ruin it. So, I decided to cut it out of two pieces with a jigsaw type joint between two bulkheads.
 
It is also important to trim that joint carefully to get a decent fit and alignment. On the pattern there is a reference line that must line up from one end to the other. This will help me fitting the bulkheads later on. Also, there is the bearding line that is marked on the pattern. This needs to flow from end to the other. This is all about sand, check, sand, check until each area is right down to the line on the pattern and it all fits.
 
Once the profile former pieces have been trimmed to their outer shape, the center joint fits and all has been checked for fit with the plans, I used a scalpel blade to trim along the bearding line on both pieces. The paper in the rabbet was removed and the bearding line transferred to the other side of the former.
 
I also measured and marked the edge of the former pieces for the depth of the rabbet. Next is actually trimming the rabbet.
 
Russ

Most agree that it was taken from the sailing luggers that were used in this area in the late 19th century. They carried a dipping lug sail used in European waters, especially in the Mediterranean. They were built here by immigrant builders and sailors for local use. Many of those luggers were later fitted with engines and then later, newer boats that were built along the same lines were built with engines and were called luggers.
 
The Captain Roy is a later variety that is characterized by a larger hull that is a bit longer for its breadth and a bit deeper for its length than previous luggers. The earlier luggers from the 1920s-30s were rather small and tended to be a bit tubbier and more shallow.
 
I should mention that the term lugger in this instance refers to a Biloxi built motor powered fishing vessel with the pilot house aft. If the pilot house were up forward, as they were in many later built boats, they would not call it a lugger. The local term would be a "Florida rig", referring to the similarity with shrimp boats built along the Florida Gulf Coast.
 
Russ

Here is where the fun begins.
 
Russ

Hello everyone. I am starting a new project. This is a 1/48 scale scratch built model of a Biloxi lugger named Captain Roy, built in 1948 by local builder Jules Galle'. This was one of two identical luggers he built that year for Roy Rosalis, owner of Biloxi Canning Co. The other boat was named Boston Bill. I have used tonnage admeasurement data and photographs to reconstruct the lines and details for this model.
 
Here are two photographs; one is a rather poor copy, and a bow view. I also include the outboard view from my plans so you can see the finished model's appearance, and her original certificate of admeasurement showing her dimensions etc.
 
Russ
 
 

Not for long it seems. Nifty piece of work, Pat

Pat:
That is a clever way to make that waterway plank. Nice work.
 
Russ

Well folks, apart from continuing to research I have been making some small progress on the model also.  The research is important as the results will determine the location of the fittings that I need to add to the bulwarks before doing any doing deck furniture etc, as it will be too difficult to do so later.  It is vital that I can determine the location and orientation of as many of the rigging fittings, pinrails, backstay straps, eyebolts etc before progressing too much further; otherwise, it will be a matter of redoing the work yet again.  Some rework has already proven to be the case (unavoidable) as we have no plans, and information on ships of this type is very scarce - so we were forced to make some assumptions which have since proven wrong
 
As you can see from the following photographs, I have started opening the ports; and, unfortunately I have also had to remove and redo about 95% of the roughtree timbers (risers).  I have completed that and I am now in the process of fitting the waterways.  Again there was not much information, and while the Contract had specifications for many of the ship's timbers/scantlings; all it said for the waterway was "to be shaped and fitted as shown on the plan" - not very helpful
 
Looking at the profile of contemporary vessels of this type, shows a very substantial  waterway with a profile as shown in the first drawing.  To obtain this shape I found it easiest to make it in two pieces which were then laminated, and then shaped at the rear with a slight profile to butt up against the bulwark planks which tumble out from the ship's side - see diagram 2.  The following photo (not very good) of the HMS Warrior forecastle shows this profile fairly clearly - I found this on the internet unsourced but I believe it is from the book "HMS Warrior, Frigate by Wynford Davies and Geoff Dennison.  Sorry about the in-your-face sizes of the drawings - I will need to to resize these first in the future.
 
 
 

 
The following photos show the waterway strips in their various stages of assembly and in being dry fitted.  I soaked the individual planks and used a bending jig to get the curved profile of each layer by stacking them in the jig, before gluing and profiling the outboard side.  The 45 degree profile was obtained by passing the plank though my mill fitted with a 45 degree cutter (in the upside down router style ). I then  glued the upper plank to the lower plank following the edge of the profile on the lower plank. This has worked out a lot better than I hoped but did take quite a few trials to get the right wood and mill speed combinations.  I have fitted a high-speed pulley upgrade to my Sherline mill to start approaching router like speeds - just have to remember this before attacking some metals (that need the slower speeds ).
 
   
 
cheers
 
Pat

Missed the start of this log somehow. I shall follow with interest. 

Hi Pat
 
Wow this is going to be some build.
Can I tag along please.
 
Denis.

A great subject for a build! Lang also did the modifications on Erebus and Terror, and his stern modifications have clearly stood the test of time. I like your metal work on the screw propeller very much. Just wonderful work on the hull.

Very interesting subject. The hull form is quite beautiful.
 
Russ

Very nice work.

Beautiful work to date, Pat, along with some very heavy research.   It does seem almost a pity to paint and copper that hull though.  She has some good looking lines.

Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments folks; I am very happy to see the interest in this vessel.
 
cheers
 
Pat

The current level of completion has seen the figurehead and channels added.  The decorations have been largely completed and the figurehead was built up and refined by club member Geoff Martin (who also designed and built the bulwarks jig, and completed most of the hull construction) -  this figurehead is only just over 18 mm total.  Another member (Geoff Peters completed the copper plates and I have added the channels and about to embark on adding the remain deck and hull fittings.
 
I have also opened the holes for the Tube Scuttles which were a combination airing port and light port designed by Oliver Lang.
 
This brings us up to date with her current status.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 
 
     

The bullwarks, roughtree timbers etc at this scale are very thin, and also as this ship was constructed without full frames (no projected timbers), we needed to develop a jig which is shown in the photos below.  The jig screwed to the deck (in locations that will be covered later) and expands outwards.  The bulwarks were then built up against this jig which supported them during construction.  The jig will be fitted again soon to allow us to cut out the various ports and access gates.
 
We decided to experiment with the deck as the scale size of the 6 inch wide deck planks would have proved to be a nightmare in planking.  The deck arrangements were drawn up in CAD and then printed on timber veneer which was then glued down to a false deck.  This has proven to be a reasonable approach for this model (cost and time); although, we have yet to deal with the glue joint .
 
    
 
 
 
cheers
 
Pat

As mentioned in the earlier posts, we have been moving ahead with the build and the hull has been completed, including the copper plating.  The screw Built by Chris Ramsey) to the Maudslay design, does rotate but we did not bother with the feathering at this scale.    This design of the feathering screw did not require the whole screw to be raised, but was rather locked in the feathered position when under sail.
 
     
 
  
 
cheers 
 
Pat

Pat, she looks a beautiful ship.
 
It's a pity that so much of our early history has disappeared - especially considering that it doesn't go back very far!
 
John