Tigersteve

Well - looks like page 7 is even more insane than page 6 was.....hopefully we can get to page 8 and lighten the scrolling a bit....
 
In any case this is just a small progress report - I've made the fore boom saddle and started to fabricate mast hoops - these are supposed to be wooden, but since I've already jumped the shark with the anchors I feel more justified in deviating here, as well, for the sake of "modeller's convenience"....ample quantities of 1/16" brass rod make the approach shown below a little more reasonable for me - though I will need to get some new nippers to cut through these!!
 
The boom saddles (main and fore) were constructed using 3/32" material from old model shipways laser cut billets. I traced the end of a 5/16" dowel on the material and then marked its centre with a compass point. I then drilled out the centre using progressively larger drill bitts and did the final bit of interior sizing using some needle files. I then drew a concentric circle about 3/32" out from the inside opening, marked out the belaying pin locations, drilled those and the rough cut out the piece, doing some final shaping with a sanding block. I lined the outside with some 1/16" pinstripe tape, added some blackened belaying pins and installed it on the mast with some small chocks as noted on the plans. I used pinstripe tape and some slightly modified eyebolts for where the foreboom attaches to the mast - I'm sorry but I'm away from the plans and cannot remember the official name for this!!
 
In any case, here are the photos - enjoy and bye for now
hamilton
 

I had the opportunity to visit Chuck last week. Photographs are always nice to look at, but being there is always better. At least when it comes to Chuck's Speedwell. He is using an advanced coloring technique to better mimic that of the contemporary model. The model has a subtle look to it where all the parts look proportional to one another and finely done. For example, the moulding that runs through the quarter badge is only 1/32' deep and the badges themselves are quite thin. I think it looks great!
 
Mike

Thanks Mike, Fred and Steve for all the kind and inspiring words. Those sure oblige me
to do my very best finishing chapter 2 and move on to chapter 3!
Frank.

Amazing job!
Steve

Short update.  Fore spencer gaff mounted and rigged.
 

 
Fore royal and topgallant braces rigged:
 

 
Whole ship:

 
Current status of list:
 
mizzen yards: 5                                 Jib halyards: 4
     lifts: 10                                           Jib downhauls: 4
     sheets: 10                                     Staysail halyards: 2
     clews: 8                                         Staysail downhauls: 2
Spencer gaff: 2 1                              Braces: 30 24
     topping lifts: 2 1                          Stun'sl booms on hull: 2
     vangs: 4  2                                    Stun'sl booms on yards: 12
Spanker boom: 1                             Davits: 4
     sheets: 2                                           Boat tackle: 4
Spanker gaff: 1                                 Decals: 3        
     throat halyard: 2                         Gilded balls on mast trucks: 3
     peak halyards: 1                         
     topping lifts: 2
     outhaul sheets: 2
     vangs: 2
     ensign halyard: 1
 
Change:
+2 (spanker sheets)
-8 (1 spencer gaff, 1 spencer topping lift, 2 spencer vangs, 4 braces)
Net = -6
 
I made the other spencer gaff, but I'm not going to install until the mizzen yards are in place. Similarly, I put some of the blocks on for the fore and main top braces, but I'm not going to actually mount the braces until the mizzen yards and the associated topgallant, royal, and skysail yards, because once the lower and top braces are in place, it's going to be even harder to get my hands in there, so I need to get moving on the yards. At least the mizzen yards don't need stun'sl irons.
 
Regards,
George K
 
 

Thank you Chuck. Yes, I’m very, very pleased and happy with this rewarding result after roughly 8 months. Though one also starts to love planking with the smell of the hot travel iron on those yellow cedar planks with many iterations of gently bending and fitting…
But, again, all thanks to your clear instructions, both on paper and YouTube!
And yet again in the Speedwell build log, such a pleasure to read and watch ahead on my iPad in the evening and again so inspiring….
Thanks! 
Frank.

Finally, after 8 months of planking, I reached the last plank….
Cheers!!!
Frank.








 
 
 
 




 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi all, just a small update to let you all know I’m also still at it! Though I don’t have much free building time, I’m almost there with planking the hull. Just another week or week or two of fanatic but precise planking before the whisky plank…
Frank.

Thank you....Today I glued the qbadges on permanently.  It needed to be done now so I can add the fancy molding on the hull and then the friezes etc.   I working my way up to the sheer and cap rail.   For the qbadge,  some acetate was placed in the window opening first from the outboard side.  Then the window itself which is laser cut on plastic as you have seen earlier.   Lastly I added the qbadge so the roof molding on the badge lined up with the 3/32" wide planking strip.  This will line up the badge properly with the molding I am going to add.  This also shows the port side which I have been working on today.
 

 
With the badge in position I added the 3/32" x 1/32" molding.  I scraped the profile into these boxwood strips in the usual way.  I created a scraper by filing the profile into an old razor blade.
 

 

I will repeat this on the other side and then add the friezes to the side of the hull next.   
 
 

So a little progress, still have the seats to install and some brass work to sort out. The gunwhales will be painted black. I am liking the proportions much more than previous attempts. 

You're right, druxey. But after gluing a few planks on the ribs, the whole structure is strengthened and there are no problems with it.
I finished the outer planking of the small boat. Now I will start on the frame of the larger boat.

It has been a little while since I have posted an update.   But I have indeed been working on Speedwell.   I have finished planking up to the molding level and not the sheer.   I have stopped to treenail the hull planking which takes a while to do neatly and precisely. I am using 10lb black fishing line.    Work has been slow because I am taking my time to line everything up with the frames and keep it all neat and tidy. The starboard side is complete,  and the port side is underway.  Once I am finished with this I will complete the outboard planking up to the shear.  Then I will add the second layer of wales and the fancy molding.  
 
Its getting there.   Treenailing is optional of course but it does make a difference when not overdone and if the treenails are not too large.   Even though only a few strakes need treenails,  it still takes a bloody long time to do!!!
 


 

Looks great!
Steve

Looks great!
Steve

Afternoon, 
Hope everyone is well. Going to be stuck at home for the 4th of July. 
A Doctor I work with made a trip to Italy last week, came home with the "sniffles" per him. 
The "sniffles" turned out to be covid. As of today, the office is now down 2 doctors and 1 tech (Me!).  
Irony is, I just started to relax using a mask at work this week. I was hesitant and other people did there thing, but I just kept wearing them.
Sheesh!
 
Any who, 
Niagara needs an update. 
 
With my "inside out" mentality approach to the rigging. I decided to get the Bowsprit rigged in.
After this I'll work backwards and do the stays off the Main mast. 
Starting with the Fore and Preventer stay.

Nothin fancy.

Rinse and repeat. 
I've been keeping an eye on how all the other rigging reacts when I apply pressure to the rope I'm working on.
Trying to maintain a proper balance to everything. 

Topmast and Inner jib stay are being worked in as well. 
The alligator clips are holding the Topmast stay as it goes thru the starboard side bee on the Bowsprit, per the plans. 

I'm trying to control myself in tightening things up too much. 
I imagine when I set in the stays off the main mast it should, in principle, tighten up the stays off the fore mast. 
My goblins!!

Here she stands in all her glory. 

 
Wash your hands!
 
Tom E 
 
 

Evening, 
Hope everyone is well this Friday. Work week is over.
Take out pizza in the belly, tall glass filled with ice and orange soda near by.......simple treasures my friends. 
Niagara needs another update. 
 
I'm continuing with the "inner" rigging. 

I've rigged in the Fore Course truss falls and Fore Topsail sheets. 
These seem to be mostly static lines. Not fully attached. I can still adjust if needed. 

 
Inevitably, filling in the Fife rail meant cleaning up the Fore course yard sling and truss.  
Nothing special here. Just kinda did the best I could with my amateur eyes. 
the Fore stay and Preventer stay have been folded over the top and out of the way. 
The sling itself has been tied off. That's the big wayward length of rope below the top. 

The sling and the like are attached at the Fife rain as well. 

She's getting there. 
Never thought I'd get this far. 

Be good, 
 
Tom E 
 
 

Good morning.

The project has actually begun....
 
It will be built much like the Medway longboat kit and Queen Anne Barge kits..
 
More to follow but this is the keel.  All finished up in Boxwood.  As I mentioned this will proceed very slowly.  I actually have over a year to complete it.
 

 
Dry fit after removing char.  Basically just on the outside of the keel and inside of the notched pieces.   These parts are precision laser cut so no need to sand or remove the char from the scarf joints.  
 

On the stem, there is a sheave for hauling in various lines like the anchor cable.   So a slot was filed into it which was centered.   I followed the plans for its depth and shape.   Then a laser cut sheave was added which is actually a working sheave.   Slide it into the slot and stick a length of wire or in my case some 20lb black fishing line.
 

 
Thats it for now...
 
I hope you will follow with interest.
 
Chuck
 

Great progress. 
Steve

Just a quick post to show the completion of the windlass, anchor winch, etc. - I still have to fabricate and install the knees on the jumbo jib crutch and add some other minor details, but it's nice to have the bulk of this work done! The hull will be complete soon, which means I'll be taking a break from Bluenose and returning to the HMS Bellona.....in the meantime, enjoy the photos.
hamilton

Fantastic!
Steve

Hello all!
 
Well, just a quick photo, the foremast is now complete, minus the braces, so a milestone. I will be away from the bench for a week, as I'm going to Chicago for the annual American Society of Clinical Oncology conference. I haven't been since 2019 because of the pandemic and various job changes, so looking forward even though it means being away for a while. 
 

 

 
As always, thanks for looking in, and for the likes!
 
Regards,
George K

Timber heads and channels installed.  I am thinking I may actually end up with a sailing galley
 
 

Continuation with planking above the wales.  I am trying to complete the five 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   I had two of them completed,  but before I move further up towards the shear,  I needed to add the sweep port lids and fixed block shells on the outboard side.
 
This is just like on the Winnie and all other projects I build.  These must be added so we can plank around them neatly.  Use the template to find there locations.  Below you can see how the plank directly below the sweep ports needed to be cut around each and every port.  I basically followed the template.  This does take some time to do but if you just go slow it will all turn out fine.  I made sure I had a very sharp blade as I was cutting the plank around the sweep ports and gunports.  One wrong move or if impatient and you can remove too much from the plank and you will have to start over.  Thank goodness there are only six gunports but there are plenty of sweep ports to carefully cut around.  I have one more 7/32" strake to go which will need to be cut around the tops of the sweep orts next.
 
You may notice that I am also leaving a 1/64 to 1/32" rabbet around the bottom and sides of each gun port.   Even though this sloop didnt have gun port lids, they may have used bucklers during heavy seas and bad weather.  Its just a guess but it seemed like the way to go.  You could omit this and simply cut to the edge of your port openings if you like.  Its hard to tell on the contemporary model if they have this rabbet.


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi modelers,
 
here the next steps to be posted.....the middle rails and the cathead support knees are done, the framing for the head grating is done, and I started with the grating timbers. 
 
Note the additional stripes along the framing and the main headrails as a support for the framing timbers.
 
The cathead support knees were notched instead of removing the hull molding stripes.
 
 
Greetings
 
Werner