mtbediz

Clean and precise work, as always. I absolutely agree with your opinion about the Proxxon mill. Every modeler should have it.

I was wondering how you would made the square holes for the capstan bars, but I assume you're leaving them round, or will they be square?

5 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

..but then again, nothing is ever easy.  Checking for "2.4mm hole brass grommets" online, the closest I could find to your specs were eyelets for 2mm and  3mm holes.

Hi Peter. The outer diameter of the pipe on my grommet is 2.4 mm. I believe the 2 mm measurement on the grommet you found is the inner diameter of the hole, and the outer diameter is probably equal to mine.

Hi Greg, no I didn't cut these from brass tubing. I bought them from a hobby store.The diameter of the flange is 3.6 mm and the outer diameter of the pipe is 2.4 mm. I first drilled 2.4 mm holes in the ship's hull and placed the portholes inside.

On 7/25/2025 at 5:49 PM, Der Alte Rentner said:

Sorry to interrupt your summer hiatus, Mustafa, but, can you tell me roughly the thickness of this curtain?

I am sorry I just noticed your message, Peter. I know it's too late for this, but I'll answer anyway. My curtains are 0,8 mm thick.

I'm back at my shipyard after a long break. At this stage, I've decided to add the berth deck portlights. I'll be making the channels and chain plates next. I've completed the installation of the starboard portlights. They will be painted black later.

Nice detail. 

1 hour ago, GGibson said:

Hoping your summer holiday with family has been wonderful and relaxing!

Thanks Greg, I'm planning to finish my vacation next week and go back to my shipyard. I really miss working

Hi Greg, you're adding gun deck details. Why don't you consider building the bowsprit bits, forward bits and chain stoppers from scratch in accordance with the original? You have the skills and tools to build them from scratch.

Great work!

Perfect!

Looking good, Greg. This build log looks like it will be a good guide for future modellers who add a gun deck to this kit.

I left the bottom straight without thinking too much about it. Since the lids would be open anyway, they wouldn't be visible

10 hours ago, Dziadeczek said:

IMHO garboard plank should end much shorter, approx. where the red arrow points. From there the rest of the planks should run more or less like the red lines show (do precise spiling there).

(You might have to install a stealer or two, if necessary).

To plank completely correctly, spiling is required, particularly from the lower end of the wales to the keel. However, we don't know if the wood Dave will use for the second layer planking will allow for lateral bending.

15 hours ago, DaveRow said:

I should point out.

The ship model in your pictures, has a finer entry bow.

The HMS Sirius is a Bluff Bow ship. Very similar to the "HMB Endeavour" I build a while ago.

I am trying to match the planking of the article below, which is the actual bluff bow "replica" of the Endeavour.

Even with the replica build; "the Garboard strake has been allowed to creep up the stem, and if this had been kept a little lower they may not have needed as
many dropped planks." (This was noted by a member of the Replica board)

Most of my planking to date on my model, follows the natural lay of a plank over the frames. 

 

I noticed this too. Your ship has a Bluff bow. Making the garboard shorter seems difficult. To create a planking pattern that matches the photo you've attached, you can apply a planking pattern similar to the one I've tried to draw on your photo in the second layer. To do this, you could end the planking from the bulwark down to the lower end of the wales, then work your way up from the keel. Sorry, I am not good at drawing on the computer but I think you can understand what I wanted to show.

Everything is going well, Greg.

9 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

Another decision made - pin rails before tackles and breech lines. It seemed to me I would have a difficult time positioning the rails once the carronades were glued into place.  So, after I completed fabricating the breech lines, I fabricated and installed the pin rails. 

Yes, I guess with that thought, I also mounted the pin rails in place before the carronades.

On 7/20/2025 at 1:57 AM, GGibson said:

Hello, Mustafa!  Hope you are enjoying your summer break and holiday!  I apologize for taking up space on your build log for this query, but thought others might be interested in the picture and in your knowledge of the location.

 

Saw this photo on the Internet of the Sumela Monastery in Turkey and after my first thought of it being an amazing structure with an obviously unique backdrop, my 2nd thought was wondering if you have ever visited?

 

Yes, Greg, I visited that historic monastery. It's an incredible structure. The Sumela Monastery is a Greek Orthodox church built in 386 AD. The exact time it took to complete is unknown. It's located within the borders of Trabzon province on the Black Sea coast of northern Türkiye.

Detailed information about the church is in the Wikipedia link below.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sumela_Monastery

On 7/15/2025 at 8:22 PM, Der Alte Rentner said:

As I'm contemplating my next steps, I'm looking through build logs of others to see what the best order of construction is. In your case I noticed that the cleats and belaying pin rails all went in long before the carronades. In your experience, is it easier to install the carronades, bow chasers, breech lines and tackles after the belaying pin rails and cleats? My thought is, it should be easier to rig the tackles and breach lines without obstacles on the bulwarks or deck.  Am I wrong?

Sorry for the late reply, Peter. I don't actually remember why I installed the pin rails before the carronades. It would probably have been more appropriate to install them after the carronades.

8 hours ago, JSGerson said:

If I made clean cuts, it may look like the clean cut openings were part of the design of the ship to an ignorant (read "lack of knowledge," not "intelligence") layman. By making them ragged, I wanted to give the illusion that the deck was broken open to see inside. You may also seen that I did the same thing with the cut beams on the starboard side waist.

Yes, this is the right approach. In my Essex model, I frequently encountered this question: "Well, didn't the sailors fall through these gaps?"

A very nice model of Sphinx! Congratulations.

You're about to catch me!  Carronades look awsome.

I only faired the first bulkhead in the bow before gluing it in place, because that one had a lot of sanding to do. I used my sanding macine to do it.

Yep, that's it! Straps look very nice.

55 minutes ago, GGibson said:

Looks like an enjoyable summer with family, Mustafa!  Enjoy, my friend!

Thank you so much my dear friend!

17 minutes ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

Should I take that to mean you're in the kiddie pool?

Not really! Just sitting by the pool, sipping my vodka and watching my grand daughter   Bon appetit to you too.