Paul Jarman
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Everything posted by Paul Jarman
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working on the ocean view cabins. A lot of fiddley painting to get the balcony floors looking OK. These cabins will all be visible on the completed model. The back of each compartment represents the doors you would open to get onto the balcony. As such the walls and background need to be painted white. And the floor toned down mahogany. Takes a while. A dentist scraper tool is perfect to scrape away the floor colour that touches the wall and a sewing needle in a pin vice helps to tidy the back up. Once done you can see right threw the walls to the outside. this does not look very good so I am about to start glazing each opening, which would represent the windows in the doors. Hopefully this will help to stop that view. And how the model is coming along. The clear parts are the rails that go across the front of each balcony to stop you falling overboard. these need to be painted brown on top for the hand rail and black for each column. Unfortunately I found one as you see it broken in the bottom of the box. And one on the sprue that is warped out of shape. I should be able to hide these on the side that wont be seen once the model is displayed in its final position. Not ideal for such an expensive kit.
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- Queen Mary 2
- Revell
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Finally got a PC. and now have the links working properly. that's all it takes rather then trying to do it with a tablet or a mobile.
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The first set of decks in place. I was going to simulate the water with a resin mix. But decided they where to small to look any good,so used the decals. Which look fine. The line of cabins and stern deck dry fitted. there are 426 to be painted up. There is a lot of flash in this kit. The back of the balconies represent the glass doors leading out to the balcony. They probably won't be seen once the clear glass parts are added. But still need a lot of the openings cleaned out. I may then glaze them. You need to think way ahead sometimes when adding parts. When the stern deck was dry fitted it left the stairs going down to the next deck short. On checking through the instructions it turns out there is a small platform added. The fitting of the deck is stage 16. The two platforms that are added to create a spiral staircase are added at stage 81. So best to fit them now to get the parts lined up correctly,which could have ended up being out of line has I not checked the instructions.
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- Queen Mary 2
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Next line of balconies painted. That's 478 balconies in this part of the hull alone. I've also returned the Windows that where white back to black. The more I kept adding details the more I disliked how they looked. Have kept the port holes glazed as they look OK.
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- Queen Mary 2
- Revell
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First side of the hull nearly completed. Most of the decals are in place. The top three lines of windows have been glazed with Kristal Klear. Usually with a flat bottomed ship I would put a bath towel on the table to protect the bottom. But that means having to handle the model each time I need to turn it around. So I have made a baseboard from an old kitchen cupboard shelf. And then bolted two decent size columns to hold the model. They where made from a garden fork handle. and give plenty of area to grip the hull. doesn't look pretty inside,but the nuts won't move once tightened up. Plus if I decide to put the model on pedestals they are there to use for them.
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- Queen Mary 2
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The problem seems to be the fire tablet. I'm writing this on my PS4 and I see a completely different screen than I do with the tablet.
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I can't get this working, can't even delete the signature. I have a message at the bottom saying blocked because of IPS spam. Which comes back as a parcel scam. But a check of the system with sky tells me everything is clean. No spam on the system and no threats.
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This is getting nowhere on this tablet. I'm obviously doing something wrong as you can from how the link looks now.
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Thanks but that did nothing. I seem to have lost all the signatures I had and the link takes me to the Titanic log. I've only ever managed to do it properly on a pc,the tablet seems to be the problem. I don't know if there is a way to undo what I've done and return the signatures back or how to get the Queen Mary link up. I'll try again at some point,if I can't get it working I'll wait a few months and see if I can afford a pc. Paul
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Can someone help me. I was trying to post a link to my build. But I've ended up posting the entire post by accident. Might be to do working a tablet and not a pc. If someone could delete the link I have added and be so kind as to add a proper link for me I would be most grateful. Thanks, Paul
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My next build. This is a plastic kit. this will be an out of The box build with The supplied photo etch. The quality is very good for the most part. There is however quite a bit of flash to deal with in a few places. Especially on the hull. This is the platinum edition so has some added photo etch. There are also a lot of clear parts to add to the model. Typical Revell painting instructions. Add such and such % of this and that rather then straight forward colours. Over 900 pieces including the photo etch. So plenty of work. I've been building the hull whilst working on the Titanic. The hull is painted and ready to add the decals. The two long bars represent the balconies that will be glued into the top part of the hull before adding the decks. There are a few hundred of these balconies to be painted. The kit came supplied with wooden decks. But I didn't like these so will paint them. The effect for the Windows was an accident. I always work on the side of the model I am building that will not be seen once displayed. This way any accidents can be rectified on the side that will be on display. So I tried to cut out the Windows for a better effect. I started by sanding away the plastic from the inside,which worked to a point. But it also ended up cutting into the hull. I also drilled out very small holes and cut them out. But it didn't come out very well. So I had to fill the areas in. I didn't have any plastic filler so used some wood filler. This had the effect that you see. It looks quite good so I will keep it.
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Titanic is finished after 2 years 5 months. Looks a lot better then the photos can ever do it justice. Getting those Marconi telegraph Wires across that length between the masts and keeping them in four straight lines was the most frustrating part of the entire build. But they look good. Never will I do another model that requires that type of work. Will concentrate more on plastic kits now. Wooden ships take so long. The four I have completed represent around 10-12 years of work. Couldn't get the lines coming down to the deck straight and tight though. I seriously thought about stretching out the plastic from a sprue to get them looking straight but it looked better with the same thread used for the lines.And does look better when viewed from a few feet away. Next big project will be HMS Hood 1\200 scale. I have been building the Queen Mary 2 from revell alongside the Titanic and am up to the hull painted.
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Excellent,great job,well done Bob.
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- King of the Mississippi
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All the deck fittings completed. Funnels fully rigged. And the ships boats rigged to their davits. Just the two masts to build up and the model will be completed. The photo etch on the funnels is not great,not terrible,just OK. But I'm happy with how it looks. I'm a bit funny with my modelling. I don't particularly like photo etch. I find it far to finnicky to work with. But at the same time I enjoy adding it to the model. Even to the point that I have brought the MK1 designs upgrade kit for the Hood.
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Funnel number 1 in place and rigged with the stays. First of the ships lifeboats in place. There is a nice photo looking along the boat deck. This shows how complex the davits where rigged. I have tried to very roughly replicate some of the ropes. I'm not sure what the cable was running across the top of the davit uprights. It wasn't on the uprights that had the two lifeboats swung out. I've represented it with some 0.3mm wire,but not painted it black. So that it is visible without being to conspicuous. The stays are made up with 0.5mm grey nylon thread to better represent the steel rope that was used. The lifeboat rigging is 0.3mm sand coloured thread. I am thinking about adding some figure of eight coils to represent the fall of the rope. Or some round coils positioned on the deck. But this may not work at this scale. The second funnel just needs a little but of work to get in line with the first. The photos don't really do the model justice. It looks far better when seen with the naked eye.
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Most of the deck fittings completed. Moving on to the ships boats and the davits. The painted davits have been superglued together. This works OK, but they do come apart to easy when the upright parts are added, no matter how long They have been left for the glue to cure. So the first two of the next five have still been superglued. But I then decided that it would work better if they where soldered in place. This is a much better way of doing them and they are a lot stronger than gluing. Then using the dremel with one of the polishing wheels cleans them up nicely. The boats are just added upside down to get them in the correct position. The PE is the boat covers with the rope effect around sides needing painting. Then it's just the funnels masts and rigging to go.
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I'm using about the same as most people are. I recently ivested in a 10 times desktop magnifier which is excellent. It can be used at various distances. Can even get it over the deck of my model to see the positioning of the smaller deck fittings. I also have headband magnifiers that have various magnifications up to 25x.
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Thanks Ken, Yes I've seen that site. I also have the Anatomy of a ship book. And will hopefully be able to get one of the aftermarket kits.
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Titanic stern area complete. Now onto the boat deck and it's fittings. Then it's the ships boats and finally the funnels. On another note I have always wanted to build one of the 1\200 scale Trumpeter Ship kits.But not Titanic,prefer to build her in wood. So treated myself to this monster of a kit.
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Had a seriously bad accident with Titanic. I had the poop deck handrails in place. Reached up to get some tweezers to add some bits and pulled the pair of pliers you see down. They landed smack onto the rails. The damage was unreal. After spending nearly two hours repairing them as best I could they are probably as good as they are going to get. The picture does make the look worse then they are, but Just can't get all the kinks out unfortunately. I have now put up some new shelves lower down. My tools where on the shelf that the Two models are on.
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Starting to add the Poop deck fittings. The bench colours are based on the Titanic research association recommended colours to represent the teal colour. They are khaki Matt with black armrests. They look a lot better seeing them normally. They look crooked in the picture,but they are not. Will have to build the docking bridge next. Looking at the plans some of the parts go between the bridge columns. Lucky I did not add them first or it could have thrown the way they fit out.
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