Fernando E

Kevin,
What the others have said.. ignore the trolls and FB.   You're doing very well.

Kevin,
 
I would think that the solution to that particular issue is to stop posting on the FB group, rather than stopping work on your model. Come back to it after AV and post your progress here. In all the time I’ve been a member here at MSW I don’t think I have ever seen that type of “trollish” behaviour - only ever encouragement, support and constructive suggestions.

And we all know better than to listen to that sort of folk on FB
 
I was really liking your work on this and was surprised when it stopped. Please restart this one. Plenty here will like to follow it, including me.

So long as you don't sound like one you'll be safe and welcomed back, I say this of course with my tongue firmly embedded in my cheek 

No more floggings but after nearly 7 weeks here am starting to look like a Tasmanian..(..am growing an extra toe!!) 😄😄

No more floggings but after nearly 7 weeks here am starting to look like a Tasmanian..(..am growing an extra toe!!) 😄😄

Ahhhh Tasmania, do they still carry out public floggings down there or have they moved on?  Ahh the good old days............. 

Hi Mike
Looks like you're moving at a cracking pace and the model is looking very smart.
Black-It is worth the $30 as it will last a lifetime. I bought my bottle about 5 years ago and haven't used much at all since that time.
 
Keep up the good work and I look forward to further updates. 
 
Cheers............Fernando 
 
PS. I'm still in Tasmania and not keen to head back to Sydney while the lockdown is still on and Covid numbers are still on the rise. The only downside is that under lockdown I would have more time on important things like working on my Perseverance!!! 🤕

Hi Mike
Looks like you're moving at a cracking pace and the model is looking very smart.
Black-It is worth the $30 as it will last a lifetime. I bought my bottle about 5 years ago and haven't used much at all since that time.
 
Keep up the good work and I look forward to further updates. 
 
Cheers............Fernando 
 
PS. I'm still in Tasmania and not keen to head back to Sydney while the lockdown is still on and Covid numbers are still on the rise. The only downside is that under lockdown I would have more time on important things like working on my Perseverance!!! 🤕

26/07/21  Working on companionways 
27/07/21  Working on companionways
28/07/21  Working on companionways and started work on other deck accessories
02/08/21  Working on main hatch and forward hatch
03/08/21  Continued working on deck furniture, rudder tiller, winch, hatches and anchors
06/08/21  Big day, glued in place all the deck furniture I made
07/08/21  Made and fitted cat heads and knight heads
08/08/21  Rigged cat heads and started making pin rails and belfry
 
HTD:  302
 
.
Some of the assembled deck furniture ready to go on
 



Deck furniture in place 
 

Anchors temporarily in place
 

Catheads in place
 

Cat heads rigged with anchors temporarily in place
 

Next week sees a start on the lifeboats 
 
 
So a lot of fiddley things this last couple of weeks. 
 
Attempted staining the roofs of the companionways but clearly lack experience and expertise. I was just trying to get away from the plain and unattractive ply finish. None the less, to the casual observer I will be perceived as a genius and no one but myself will be any the wiser. Once again I find something that should be a doddle to put together deceptively tricky, some well learned mistakes for next time. The learning curve will steepen further before it wanes I suspect.
 
I wanted to blacken the eyelets on the hatch covers but wasn't prepared to part with $30 or so for a few drops (100Ml's) of Black-It. I tried the vinegar and salt suggestion for a few days but that just took the shine off and it was no blacker. I then gave them a lovely coat of black primer and and a couple of top coats but this just came off on handling. So I have given in and ordered me some Black-It.
 
I really enjoyed rigging the cat heads as it was my first foray into rigging and am looking forward to getting stuck into some real rigging in the coming months.
 
I stuffed up a bit with the knight heads in that when I checked out the base of the bowsprit I checked out too much. There was no measurement given and so I just went by eye. There is only about a 1mm gap between the two heads instead of about 4 or 5 as I see it. Another lesson learned.
 
So in terms of deck furniture I just have to finish some pin rails and start on the three lifeboats before getting stuck into the masts and yards.
 

Thanks for the comments Rob and Don.
 
So for the forecastle details the first step was to blacken the chain. I have outlined how I made my home-made blackening solution in my bounty’s launch build log but it basically involves using copper sulfate and bicarb soda to make copper carbonate which can then be added to ammonia to give the blackening solution. I was still using the same batch from my Bounty’s launch, and I think it is much weaker now as some of the ammonia has evaporated. It took over 5 hours to produce the colour seen here where it was achieving the same results in 10 minutes a year ago. I guess the container must not be particularly airtight.
 
 
 
Also, on a few other Beagle threads, it's been mentioned how crowded the belaying pins at the foremast are. Anatomy of the Ship indicates that there should be some eyebolts around the base of the foremast to possibly ease this. It's pretty clear why OcCre has not suggested this, as it is going to be a pain in the **** to tie off ropes here once the mast is in, but why are we here if not to suffer? I'll probably tie off the threads to these eyebolts before adding the mast, which might make things a bit easier.
 
Painting the windlass was fun. The beige I used for the pins didn’t look quite right on the windlass as a whole, so I added a tiny bit of brown. Painting in the lines was a challenge that took a few goes to get right.

 
I also made the carronade. The top ring in my kit was very poorly cut and one edge was thinner than the other side and it broke as soon as I cut it out. I had to bend some 1 x 3 strips to give two half rings to make up a new one. I did also add some gun tackle using 2 mm blocks.

 
The hatchway was also fun to make. I added some hinges to the hatches with some off cuts from the eyebolts. I also made up some chain stoppers. I’m not really sure if they’re quite right but I think they get the idea across.


 
And finally, the two binnacles have been added. There’s a bit of a story as to why I have two. From anatomy of the ship, it’s clear that two binnacles were onboard, while the kit only has one. I noticed this months ago and emailed OcCre asking to pay for an additional binnacle as well as shipping. They may have misunderstood me as they assumed I had a missing part. They sent over a bunch, so I have way too many now, but I could at least install the correct amount. But as many other people have mentioned, OcCre definitely has top notch customer service, which I guess is something to keep in mind for any of their kits.

 
Anyway, I'm having a lot of fun with the little details, it's definitely one of the most rewarding parts of the build. The thought of building the boats is a bit daunting as I think I've set myself a few challenges there and I'm not really sure how it's going to turn out. The next few updates shouldn't be too far off though.

Okay, so went a bit dark there. I finally have a couple of weeks to give the boat some undivided attention. I was really struggling a bit to motivate myself to the deadeyes again, but I got through it. They are now wooden and appropriately sized.

 
I also finished the new belaying pins with the new pin rails. They are 9 mm brass pins painted a beige colour and I think they look right now. It seems like it is pretty difficult to get correctly scaled wooden belaying pins that won't be extremely fragile, so the painted brass ones will have to do.
 



 
And then onto new and exciting things. So first up is the poop side rails, which are extremely delicate and a bit tricky as the eyebolts provided are a little short and had to be reinforced with a lot of epoxy to make somewhat stable.

 
I also finished the azimuthal compass and the other poop details. I did print out a little compass rose to glue on the compass, but it was too small to print properly. I touched it up with a pen, but it looks okay, I think. I’m not going to add the stowage blocks yet as I’m not really sure how the whaleboats will be placed yet. I think once I’ve made those and get a better sense of the size, I can add them.

 
Anyway, working on the carronade and windlass now, good to be back.

Hello Mike,
Really looking smart! I really enjoyed building the deck furniture as it starts to look like it's heading towards the home straight......that is until I started the rigging🙄
 
Cheers...... Fernando  
 
 
 
 
 

16/07/21  - 22/07/21 Remaking head rails.
23/07/21  Glued on new head rails and cut out cargo ports in bulwarks.
24/07/21  Fitted cargo ports and made frame for same on the inside. Fitted transom decoration.
25/07/21   started to make companionways.
 
 
HTD:  284
 

New head rails in place, less curve this time and the right way around i.e. concave not convex, oh the embarrassment.
 

Cargo ports fitted
 

Top view of top rails, symmetry not great :-(
 

Cargo port with internal frame and check out my handsome transom :-)
 
 
Starting to make the companionways.
 
 
 
So this week, for the most part, was spent recreating the headrails and as I have mentioned before it is so surprising how something so deceptively simple was so challenging and to be honest I am not much happier with the new ones. I suspect a seasoned modeler would have stripped them off again and again if need be to get them just right.
 
Cutting out the cargo ports was not as easy as I thought it would be, much less 70 odd canon ports on the Trinidad or similar, a labour of love for sure. Anyway, got them cut out but to me, not perfect as the gaps, as seen from the inside, were all over the place, as seen in one of the pics above. The manual didn't call for an internal frame for the cargo ports but as I said, just too messy naked, as it were. None of the stains I had came close to the finish of the bulwarks so I just painted them black which disappointed me because you now can't see the mitre joints employed in the making of them that I prided myself on.
 
Today I started making the two companionways. I started out thinking this will be so easy and fun. WRONG!! Rushing too much I put things on back to front yada yada. Anyway, have rectified the mistakes and will slow down with the completion of them.
 

First layer of planking almost complete. After a quick rub with coarse sandpaper, I now think it will e neceassary to use some filler. I also needed to fill in some hollow using 0.5mm thick strips of lime. Before I can fill in the underside of the stern facia with planking I will now fit the keel, stern and stem posts.
I still have the bulwarks to do before starting on the second planking. Here is a couple of photos of the second planking. Note the stand and keel is not yet attached.

I would say between 400-800 hours.
 
I do mention at the start of the manual the amount of parts, and not to be put off by this, it's just that the parts you usually have to make up yourself from stock timber are already pre cut. In some cases, a little bevelling or rounding off of the edges is required to finish the parts, but that's it.
 
You have multiple sizes of yard cleats and mast and sling cleats (items you usually make up from wood strip), even the mast head battens are pre cut, as are the mast fids.
 
So, a lot of parts and a lot of laser cut wood sheets, but this does not or should not translate into meaning more complicated than any standard kit. Quite the contrary, I am hoping...
 
I did tell Jim that I do not mind how big the manual is or how many photos  we use, the more info for the modeller the better, I believe.
 
And what a job Jim is doing, he really is doing the kit justice.

I have been told that the photo etched sheets will be ready to pick up from Italy at the end of next week, so will receive the week after. If these are all good, I will think about changing the Sphinx to pre-order, as all will be with me. I even have the boxes, double walled, so very strong, and have just ordered the shipping sleeves.
 
Manual is up to date, almost complete, but has a lot more pages than I initially thought, with close on 1000 pictures..

Here's my last update before the final completion images.
 
The masts are pretty straightforward. Cartridge paper is used for the iron banding, the battens then fitted over these. When complete, the masts are varnished and then sections painted black before then fitting out with rigging blocks etc. For this model, I've used the optional pear blocks (except for deadeyes as the pear weren't in stock when I started). 
 






 
 
All yards are then built, including mizzen gaff, ensign pole etc. These will be fitted out as soon as the paint is dry.

 
 
Whilst waiting for paint drying, I fitted the bowsprit and rigged the shrouds and stays after first adding the gammoning. Boomkins are also rigged.

 
 
And this is the result so far.

 
 
Catch you when she's finished...

Thanks for that Fernando, strangely I hadn't thought of the filler particularly given I used it generously around the figure head gaps. I have a very nice porous filler in a tube from Vallejo that has a fine tip which will make it ideal for those transom cap gaps.

Hi Mike, looking really good. I had similar problems with the transom cap with some minor spacing showing. I just put some tiny bits of wood filler and painted the spots the same black as the cap and....voila, spaces gone👍
 
Cheers.......Fernando 🍻
 
 
 

Beautiful stuff 🥰
 
Love the heavy metal to hold stuff down and all those clamp forceps! 😝

12/07/21  Gave a few more coats of paint to top rails. Glued bowsprit top cradle in place
13/07/21  Glued on top rails and painted transom cap
14/07/21  Finished cap rails. Final shaping and sanding to aft cap rails and final painting. Bent head rails and started bending head rail caps. Glued fence in place.
15/07/21  -  17/07/21 Working on head rails and head rail caps and glued in place.
 
 
HTD:  275
 
 

Cap rails glued into place
 


Cap rails and transom cap in place
 

Head rail and net-fence in place.
 
 
 
 
A fairly easy week this week. Despite what I thought was a clever idea bending the transom cap, after gluing it on I noticed a few gaps that disappointed me somewhat. Still, the casual observer will not notice and think I am brilliant regardless.
 
I was surprised at the level of difficulty creating and placing the two head rails would prove. The two rails were precut ply, so I soaked them in boiling water and tried to shape them by clamping them to the rim of a glass. They weren't budging and so I left them soak for 24Hrs by which time they had begun to delaminate. I was going to cut new ones out of balsa or something but ended up just squirting some thin CA between the layers and clamped them down to dry. I then commenced bending again with much more success this time, probably ended up with more bend than was required. I then edge bent the caps for the head rails and glued them on. By the time I finished sanding and shaping the two rails were slightly different in many aspects  but I proceeded to glue them in place none the less. The head on shot, which I have chosen not to include above, shows a lack of symmetry that is unsatisfactory to me but chose to move on regardless.
 
As this is a stepping stone model to bigger and better things, the observation has been well noted. As I have discovered a number of other such challenges, I have decided not to go straight onto the Gorch Fock, a level 4 kit from OcCre, but instead, a Level 3 kit from the same kit manufacturer as this one called the Matthew Turner which is on it's way as I type.
 
I think I am ready to start deck furniture/accessories next.
 
Any constructive comments or criticisms would be most welcome, thanks.

Hello all,
 
And yes, another Victory build!
 
Welcome all.
 
My apologies to Amati, but I couldn't wait any longer for their Victory. So I ordered the Caldercraft / Jotika instead as a present to myself on the occasion on my upcoming 40th work anniversary in August.
 
And boy, she is big and heavy. A box filled with 15 kilo's (33 lb) of all kinds of goodies.
 

 
 

 
 

05/07/21  - 08/07/21  Started preparing forward stanchions, sanding, shaping, painting etc
08/07/21  Installed forward stanchions. Filled gaps and made a cap for figurehead  to hide gaps
08/07/21  -  09/07/21  Preparing aft stanchions, sanding, shaping, painting etc  and painted figurehead and cap.
10/07/21  Installed aft stanchions and glued bowsprit in place
11/07/21  Shaped and painted bowsprit cradle, bent transom cap, sanded and readied top rails
 
 
HTD:  268
 
 

Bowsprit glued in place top rails just sitting on top waiting to be painted before gluing. Also making a top-saddle for the bowsprit.
 

Still had the cutout for the transom so copied shape to bench and banged in a few brads to help bend transom cap, will leave it to dry for a couple of days, I think it should hold it's shape..
 
A relatively nice easy week with nothing too taxing on the grey matter. After top rails and transom cap painted and installed I should be making a start on the deck furnishings towards the end of the week. Looking forward to that.