RiverRat

It's great to have that Amerikan Icon, Alfalfa, back!!! Ahoy!.  Where's Darla?
 
Your build is looking better and better, Brian.  The problem with the gun port seems completely resolved, and the planking all looks nice and even and smooth. 
 
As for those pesky hances, I'd make 2 points:  first, you'll be happier if you use a piece of wood long enough to extend from the quarterdeck into the hance itself, otherwise you'll have a seam that will always draw your eye, no matter how much you tell yourself, "oh, no one will notice."  Second, in carving my decoration (which is supposedly a spiral), I actually found it easiest to pencil in the design, then use a micro gouge and an exacto.  I love my rotary tool, and used it on the stern carving and the masthead, but that came in handiest on the hances as a finishing tool.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Well golly gee. Since there are some Alfalfa fans here, I'll return his visage!
 
Little steps....................
 
I installed a generous amount of 1.5mm stock to fill out the waist bulwarks. The one offending metal gunport frame mentioned earlier was reduced by shaving with an X-Acto chisel blade (the ports are pretty soft metal), rather than filing or sanding which creates a lot of fine dust. Used a rocking motion near the deck, rather than slicing, to avoid marring the decking. A little filing to finish it off. Used some wood filler here and there, especially on the pieces next to the metal ports which I earlier ill-advisedly tapered instead of bending.
 

 
Planked the bulwarks with the dreaded 0.5x3 mm walnut, and trimmed most of the excess at the ports, just needing a little fine-tuning of the openings. Still need the "waterways" installed.
 

 
So nice to get the ugly sub-structure covered! Speaking of which......... no photo, but....
In front of the ply bulkhead under the aft of the forecastle (the bulkhead which I had trimmed down), was some of that sub-structure than might remotely be visible. So I made little panels of planks to cover those sections between the bulkhead and the port fore of it, just in case, and gingerly slipped them into the crowded space.
 
I may add the waist cap rail, but the other rails I'd rather do in order, for ease of fitting. There are some decorative ends (hances) that I've yet to figure out how to do. I've ordered a decent (hopefully) rotary tool for carving these and the other decorations. Might arrive in about a week.
 
Happy Independance Day to Amerika tomorrow! Though when one considers that recent US governments have been exponentially worse than what the Colonists had to endure with the Brits............What's to celebrate?
 
Cheers,
Alfalfa
 
 
 
 
 

Well golly gee. Since there are some Alfalfa fans here, I'll return his visage!
 
Little steps....................
 
I installed a generous amount of 1.5mm stock to fill out the waist bulwarks. The one offending metal gunport frame mentioned earlier was reduced by shaving with an X-Acto chisel blade (the ports are pretty soft metal), rather than filing or sanding which creates a lot of fine dust. Used a rocking motion near the deck, rather than slicing, to avoid marring the decking. A little filing to finish it off. Used some wood filler here and there, especially on the pieces next to the metal ports which I earlier ill-advisedly tapered instead of bending.
 

 
Planked the bulwarks with the dreaded 0.5x3 mm walnut, and trimmed most of the excess at the ports, just needing a little fine-tuning of the openings. Still need the "waterways" installed.
 

 
So nice to get the ugly sub-structure covered! Speaking of which......... no photo, but....
In front of the ply bulkhead under the aft of the forecastle (the bulkhead which I had trimmed down), was some of that sub-structure than might remotely be visible. So I made little panels of planks to cover those sections between the bulkhead and the port fore of it, just in case, and gingerly slipped them into the crowded space.
 
I may add the waist cap rail, but the other rails I'd rather do in order, for ease of fitting. There are some decorative ends (hances) that I've yet to figure out how to do. I've ordered a decent (hopefully) rotary tool for carving these and the other decorations. Might arrive in about a week.
 
Happy Independance Day to Amerika tomorrow! Though when one considers that recent US governments have been exponentially worse than what the Colonists had to endure with the Brits............What's to celebrate?
 
Cheers,
Alfalfa
 
 
 
 
 

JP,
 
I didn't mention my opinion of whether to paint. That's your choice of what the model is to be to you. If it's a display of how a ship model is built, of the craftsmanship or artistry involved, of the details that can go into it --- then leave out the paint. If this is meant to be a representation of a historical vessel, paint it appropriately if you want. (Even then, LOTS of treenails will still be showing)
 
Regards,
Brian

My cable internet was out a couple hours, couldn't start this post, and was beginning to have MSW withdrawal symptoms! Completed planking down to and including the wales.
 
To plank around the quarter lights opening, I made a quarter-light-shaped block and tacked it in place with two dots of glue so it could hopefully be easily removed (it worked). This was to have minimal or no trimming of the plank ends. This left a ledge for the light to sit on so the frame could fit flush with the planking, rather than mounted on the surface like the transom lights.
 
I popped them off after two strakes, cleaned off the dots, and replaced them. A nice, snug, press fit.
 

 
The Admiralty drawings I've seen don't show it having a quarter badge. I'll likely try some kind of decorative trim, not too ostentatious; haven't decided yet.  ( Hmmmm, maybe some Victorian gingerbread and lacy curtains..........)
 
The kit supplies eight 2x2 mm walnut strips for wales and other things. The wales were to be (most of) three of these per side. The pieces varied in color and I couldn't get six similarly dark ones as I would wish. I was hoping for uniformly dark! I decided to use some of the 2x4 pieces I got from HobbyMill for another aspect of this build, and planed them to 2x3 mm. Two 3mm pieces per wale instead of three 2x2. Here's the color difference:
 

 
The wales are to taper downward to be flush with the 1 mm lower-hull planking. I pre-tapered the pieces with a plane to get most of the taper started, and holding two together on a flat surface, sanded to get more of it done. More will be done in place after gluing.
 
The wales as a whole are to taper a bit (unspecified amount in the instructions) at the bow. I tapered about three inches, taking off the top of the upper strake only, about 3/4 to 1 mm. Planed a bit of bevel on the top edge of these, especially the second, for a better fit.
 
I used full-length strips, maybe not "scale", but I like the clean look better for this part. Here are two views of the better side.


 
I had cut/trimmed the gunports previously, but have a little more sanding to do on those. Starting to look more ship-shape!, getting that bland first planking covered.
 
I'll probably back up and get the quarterdeck planking done and the inner bulwarks covered. Tired of looking at those incomplete sections. (Or is he making an excuse to delay hull planking???.......)
 
I may have found a historical reference to Rattlesnake in cpt Tom's Supply II build log. From a wikipedia article, an American ship Rattlesnake was a candidate for the First Fleet to Australia (transporting convicts), but was rejected for the trip. Rattlesnake was sold out of service that same year, so this is likely her. The article is at:
http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Supply_(1759)
 
Enough for now, I guess...
 
Cheers,
Brian
 
 

My kit supplies pieces for a stand/cradle that has a keel slot started, but not the hull shape.
 
I found this contour guage at a Harbor Freight store (US chain with cheap tools/hardware) for a few dollars. There are higher quality ones available elsewhere.
 
I used it to get the hull shape to do the cradle piece. I can also see it used to check the hull's shape and symmetry when fairing.
 

 

 
Brian

My kit supplies pieces for a stand/cradle that has a keel slot started, but not the hull shape.
 
I found this contour guage at a Harbor Freight store (US chain with cheap tools/hardware) for a few dollars. There are higher quality ones available elsewhere.
 
I used it to get the hull shape to do the cradle piece. I can also see it used to check the hull's shape and symmetry when fairing.
 

 

 
Brian

A bit o' progress...............
 
The excess ply bulkheads at the quarterdeck were removed; the bulk of which was removed by my trusty piece of x-acto razor saw, the decking masked so as not to mar it. Shaved what was left at the deck with an x-acto chisel blade to make it flush (or lower) so that the remaing planks would lay flat.
 
No need to remove all of it from the bulwarks/first-planking (might be harmful to try) as long as they're left no thicker than the 2 mm of the walnut 2x3 mm pieces added for frames/"wall studs".  The q-deck decking was then completed.
 
The plan drawing shows the 2x3 piece at the front of the quarterdeck extending all the way down to the main deck. Whether misdrawn or not, use 1.5 mm stock on the bulwark below the quarterdeck to match everything else there.
 

 
The inner bulwarks are planked with 0.5 mm strips. Pretty flimsy stuff, thought meself, so I added some extra 2 mm stock for extra support.
 

 
If you're building this and not up to this point yet. I'd suggest using 1.5 mm stock for the "wall studs" instead of the 2x3mm. Then plank with 1 mm stock (you may have to buy extra) instead of the 0.5mm. Would be much easier to handle, I'm sure.
 
I'd first thought of planking this inner wall with cherry, as on the outside, but the shade was much like the light tanganyika decking. (Though I'd heard cherry darkens with age...) I opted to keep with the original walnut for a bit more contrast.
 

 
Haven't built the stairs yet, so I'll jump down and plank the waist.....................
 
Regards,
 
Brian
 
 

A bit o' progress...............
 
The excess ply bulkheads at the quarterdeck were removed; the bulk of which was removed by my trusty piece of x-acto razor saw, the decking masked so as not to mar it. Shaved what was left at the deck with an x-acto chisel blade to make it flush (or lower) so that the remaing planks would lay flat.
 
No need to remove all of it from the bulwarks/first-planking (might be harmful to try) as long as they're left no thicker than the 2 mm of the walnut 2x3 mm pieces added for frames/"wall studs".  The q-deck decking was then completed.
 
The plan drawing shows the 2x3 piece at the front of the quarterdeck extending all the way down to the main deck. Whether misdrawn or not, use 1.5 mm stock on the bulwark below the quarterdeck to match everything else there.
 

 
The inner bulwarks are planked with 0.5 mm strips. Pretty flimsy stuff, thought meself, so I added some extra 2 mm stock for extra support.
 

 
If you're building this and not up to this point yet. I'd suggest using 1.5 mm stock for the "wall studs" instead of the 2x3mm. Then plank with 1 mm stock (you may have to buy extra) instead of the 0.5mm. Would be much easier to handle, I'm sure.
 
I'd first thought of planking this inner wall with cherry, as on the outside, but the shade was much like the light tanganyika decking. (Though I'd heard cherry darkens with age...) I opted to keep with the original walnut for a bit more contrast.
 

 
Haven't built the stairs yet, so I'll jump down and plank the waist.....................
 
Regards,
 
Brian
 
 

A bit o' progress...............
 
The excess ply bulkheads at the quarterdeck were removed; the bulk of which was removed by my trusty piece of x-acto razor saw, the decking masked so as not to mar it. Shaved what was left at the deck with an x-acto chisel blade to make it flush (or lower) so that the remaing planks would lay flat.
 
No need to remove all of it from the bulwarks/first-planking (might be harmful to try) as long as they're left no thicker than the 2 mm of the walnut 2x3 mm pieces added for frames/"wall studs".  The q-deck decking was then completed.
 
The plan drawing shows the 2x3 piece at the front of the quarterdeck extending all the way down to the main deck. Whether misdrawn or not, use 1.5 mm stock on the bulwark below the quarterdeck to match everything else there.
 

 
The inner bulwarks are planked with 0.5 mm strips. Pretty flimsy stuff, thought meself, so I added some extra 2 mm stock for extra support.
 

 
If you're building this and not up to this point yet. I'd suggest using 1.5 mm stock for the "wall studs" instead of the 2x3mm. Then plank with 1 mm stock (you may have to buy extra) instead of the 0.5mm. Would be much easier to handle, I'm sure.
 
I'd first thought of planking this inner wall with cherry, as on the outside, but the shade was much like the light tanganyika decking. (Though I'd heard cherry darkens with age...) I opted to keep with the original walnut for a bit more contrast.
 

 
Haven't built the stairs yet, so I'll jump down and plank the waist.....................
 
Regards,
 
Brian
 
 

So what exactly is a “card model”?  A card model (more properly a paper model, since card is only one of many kinds of paper, though the terms card and paper are frequently used interchangeably) is simply a model made primarily out of paper.  Many modelers are surprised when they hear for the first time that a ship model can be made from humble paper, but paper as a modeling medium has a long history dating back to the early 20th century.  During World War II, paper was one of the few resources not heavily regulated due to the war effort, and paper models enjoyed a brief peak in popularity, even in America.  After the war, though, plastic model kits began to take over the market, and paper model kits eventually become so scarce that most modelers have never heard of them, except in the countries that formerly made up the East Bloc.  Communism may not have had much going for it as a system of government, but what it did do is preserve card modeling as an art form.  Because plastic models were prohibitively expensive in Eastern Europe, card modeling remained a popular hobby there.  Once the Cold War thawed, commerce started flowing between East and West, and one item in particular had a huge influence on card modeling: CAD technology.  Our card modeling friends in Eastern Europe were quick to apply computer-aided drafting to the art of designing card models, and as a result an ever-increasing number of card model designs became available with better artwork, more detail, and closer fit tolerances.  Although the number of Western designs is also increasing, for the most part the hobby is still dominated by designers and publishers from the East, particularly Poland, home to some of the preeminent publishing houses, including GPM, Modelik, JSC, Orlik, Maly Modelarz, and the company considered by many to be the gold standard of card modeling, Kartonowy Arsenal.  Germany is another leading producer of card models, with HMV, Moewe-Verlag, and J. F. Schreiber being some of the better-known publishers.
 
Paper has a number of selling points as a modeling medium, probably the most important of which is that it is relatively cheap.  With the prices of wooden and plastic kits exploding in recent years, the fact that most paper kits can still be purchased for under $20 US makes them attractive candidates for modelers with small budgets.  Paper Shipwright of the UK, for example, offer 44 ship designs in their catalog, none of which has a price tag greater than $16 US.  Of course, just like with wood or plastic, after-market additions can push the price of a card model project up considerably, but even with the cost of laser-cut or photo-etched details thrown in, a card model costing over $100 US is rare.  In addition to being inexpensive, paper is also versatile, and with careful manipulation can be molded into almost any three-dimensional shape.  A third advantage of card models is that they are, with very few exceptions, pre-colored, meaning that the color of the finished model is printed on the paper.  Modern graphic design programs allow designers to produce card model kits with exceptionally realistic weathering already printed on the model.  In most cases, painting or coloring of a card model is limited to the need to obscure the seams between adjacent parts.  And finally, card models require very few tools to get started – most people probably already have the basic cutting and gluing supplies in their house somewhere.
 
One of the most compelling reasons to try card modeling is that a card model kit that starts as a set of flat, printed sheets can be transformed into a stunning finished product.  There is a learning curve, of course, but hearing someone say, “I can’t believe that’s made out of paper!” upon viewing one of your finished card models never gets old.
 
An excellent one-stop site to see a variety of completed card ship models is the website for Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag, better known as HMV.  Their site is available in both German and English.  Enjoy!
 
Continue to Part II: Start for FREE!

OMG! Brilliant minds build alike!  
 
BTW, earlier, your build led me to get a copy of the AOTS Blandford book. Not necessarily to build, but to get a better picture of how these floaters are put together. (It's probably the cheapest AOTS)  Thanks!
 
Brian

Oops. The Mamoli intructions only say to taper (see the plan's cross-section earlier), not to blend with the planking below. I know I read somewhere that the wales were to blend, but I can't come up with the reference.
 
@hamilton --- Thanks! Perhaps it's just one of those (many) things that the builder is aware of, but not obvious to onlookers. ( Like the starboard edge of my quarterdeck being a half a millimeter lower than the port edge and I've had to compensate................)
 
Cheers,
Brian

My cable internet was out a couple hours, couldn't start this post, and was beginning to have MSW withdrawal symptoms! Completed planking down to and including the wales.
 
To plank around the quarter lights opening, I made a quarter-light-shaped block and tacked it in place with two dots of glue so it could hopefully be easily removed (it worked). This was to have minimal or no trimming of the plank ends. This left a ledge for the light to sit on so the frame could fit flush with the planking, rather than mounted on the surface like the transom lights.
 
I popped them off after two strakes, cleaned off the dots, and replaced them. A nice, snug, press fit.
 

 
The Admiralty drawings I've seen don't show it having a quarter badge. I'll likely try some kind of decorative trim, not too ostentatious; haven't decided yet.  ( Hmmmm, maybe some Victorian gingerbread and lacy curtains..........)
 
The kit supplies eight 2x2 mm walnut strips for wales and other things. The wales were to be (most of) three of these per side. The pieces varied in color and I couldn't get six similarly dark ones as I would wish. I was hoping for uniformly dark! I decided to use some of the 2x4 pieces I got from HobbyMill for another aspect of this build, and planed them to 2x3 mm. Two 3mm pieces per wale instead of three 2x2. Here's the color difference:
 

 
The wales are to taper downward to be flush with the 1 mm lower-hull planking. I pre-tapered the pieces with a plane to get most of the taper started, and holding two together on a flat surface, sanded to get more of it done. More will be done in place after gluing.
 
The wales as a whole are to taper a bit (unspecified amount in the instructions) at the bow. I tapered about three inches, taking off the top of the upper strake only, about 3/4 to 1 mm. Planed a bit of bevel on the top edge of these, especially the second, for a better fit.
 
I used full-length strips, maybe not "scale", but I like the clean look better for this part. Here are two views of the better side.


 
I had cut/trimmed the gunports previously, but have a little more sanding to do on those. Starting to look more ship-shape!, getting that bland first planking covered.
 
I'll probably back up and get the quarterdeck planking done and the inner bulwarks covered. Tired of looking at those incomplete sections. (Or is he making an excuse to delay hull planking???.......)
 
I may have found a historical reference to Rattlesnake in cpt Tom's Supply II build log. From a wikipedia article, an American ship Rattlesnake was a candidate for the First Fleet to Australia (transporting convicts), but was rejected for the trip. Rattlesnake was sold out of service that same year, so this is likely her. The article is at:
http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Supply_(1759)
 
Enough for now, I guess...
 
Cheers,
Brian
 
 

My cable internet was out a couple hours, couldn't start this post, and was beginning to have MSW withdrawal symptoms! Completed planking down to and including the wales.
 
To plank around the quarter lights opening, I made a quarter-light-shaped block and tacked it in place with two dots of glue so it could hopefully be easily removed (it worked). This was to have minimal or no trimming of the plank ends. This left a ledge for the light to sit on so the frame could fit flush with the planking, rather than mounted on the surface like the transom lights.
 
I popped them off after two strakes, cleaned off the dots, and replaced them. A nice, snug, press fit.
 

 
The Admiralty drawings I've seen don't show it having a quarter badge. I'll likely try some kind of decorative trim, not too ostentatious; haven't decided yet.  ( Hmmmm, maybe some Victorian gingerbread and lacy curtains..........)
 
The kit supplies eight 2x2 mm walnut strips for wales and other things. The wales were to be (most of) three of these per side. The pieces varied in color and I couldn't get six similarly dark ones as I would wish. I was hoping for uniformly dark! I decided to use some of the 2x4 pieces I got from HobbyMill for another aspect of this build, and planed them to 2x3 mm. Two 3mm pieces per wale instead of three 2x2. Here's the color difference:
 

 
The wales are to taper downward to be flush with the 1 mm lower-hull planking. I pre-tapered the pieces with a plane to get most of the taper started, and holding two together on a flat surface, sanded to get more of it done. More will be done in place after gluing.
 
The wales as a whole are to taper a bit (unspecified amount in the instructions) at the bow. I tapered about three inches, taking off the top of the upper strake only, about 3/4 to 1 mm. Planed a bit of bevel on the top edge of these, especially the second, for a better fit.
 
I used full-length strips, maybe not "scale", but I like the clean look better for this part. Here are two views of the better side.


 
I had cut/trimmed the gunports previously, but have a little more sanding to do on those. Starting to look more ship-shape!, getting that bland first planking covered.
 
I'll probably back up and get the quarterdeck planking done and the inner bulwarks covered. Tired of looking at those incomplete sections. (Or is he making an excuse to delay hull planking???.......)
 
I may have found a historical reference to Rattlesnake in cpt Tom's Supply II build log. From a wikipedia article, an American ship Rattlesnake was a candidate for the First Fleet to Australia (transporting convicts), but was rejected for the trip. Rattlesnake was sold out of service that same year, so this is likely her. The article is at:
http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Supply_(1759)
 
Enough for now, I guess...
 
Cheers,
Brian
 
 

My cable internet was out a couple hours, couldn't start this post, and was beginning to have MSW withdrawal symptoms! Completed planking down to and including the wales.
 
To plank around the quarter lights opening, I made a quarter-light-shaped block and tacked it in place with two dots of glue so it could hopefully be easily removed (it worked). This was to have minimal or no trimming of the plank ends. This left a ledge for the light to sit on so the frame could fit flush with the planking, rather than mounted on the surface like the transom lights.
 
I popped them off after two strakes, cleaned off the dots, and replaced them. A nice, snug, press fit.
 

 
The Admiralty drawings I've seen don't show it having a quarter badge. I'll likely try some kind of decorative trim, not too ostentatious; haven't decided yet.  ( Hmmmm, maybe some Victorian gingerbread and lacy curtains..........)
 
The kit supplies eight 2x2 mm walnut strips for wales and other things. The wales were to be (most of) three of these per side. The pieces varied in color and I couldn't get six similarly dark ones as I would wish. I was hoping for uniformly dark! I decided to use some of the 2x4 pieces I got from HobbyMill for another aspect of this build, and planed them to 2x3 mm. Two 3mm pieces per wale instead of three 2x2. Here's the color difference:
 

 
The wales are to taper downward to be flush with the 1 mm lower-hull planking. I pre-tapered the pieces with a plane to get most of the taper started, and holding two together on a flat surface, sanded to get more of it done. More will be done in place after gluing.
 
The wales as a whole are to taper a bit (unspecified amount in the instructions) at the bow. I tapered about three inches, taking off the top of the upper strake only, about 3/4 to 1 mm. Planed a bit of bevel on the top edge of these, especially the second, for a better fit.
 
I used full-length strips, maybe not "scale", but I like the clean look better for this part. Here are two views of the better side.


 
I had cut/trimmed the gunports previously, but have a little more sanding to do on those. Starting to look more ship-shape!, getting that bland first planking covered.
 
I'll probably back up and get the quarterdeck planking done and the inner bulwarks covered. Tired of looking at those incomplete sections. (Or is he making an excuse to delay hull planking???.......)
 
I may have found a historical reference to Rattlesnake in cpt Tom's Supply II build log. From a wikipedia article, an American ship Rattlesnake was a candidate for the First Fleet to Australia (transporting convicts), but was rejected for the trip. Rattlesnake was sold out of service that same year, so this is likely her. The article is at:
http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Supply_(1759)
 
Enough for now, I guess...
 
Cheers,
Brian
 
 

Hi Ferit,
 
There IS sort of an unwritten rule (though there has actually been some discusion about it), or oath as you suggested,  of avoiding negative comments of someone's work, and rather, adding positive critcism in a helpful way. But frankly Ferit, no one here is bullshitting you ( forgive the language, moderators) when they praise your modelling talent! The accolades aren't there to make you feel good or to encourage you to do better. You somehow have a real talent for this stuff. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Brian

My cable internet was out a couple hours, couldn't start this post, and was beginning to have MSW withdrawal symptoms! Completed planking down to and including the wales.
 
To plank around the quarter lights opening, I made a quarter-light-shaped block and tacked it in place with two dots of glue so it could hopefully be easily removed (it worked). This was to have minimal or no trimming of the plank ends. This left a ledge for the light to sit on so the frame could fit flush with the planking, rather than mounted on the surface like the transom lights.
 
I popped them off after two strakes, cleaned off the dots, and replaced them. A nice, snug, press fit.
 

 
The Admiralty drawings I've seen don't show it having a quarter badge. I'll likely try some kind of decorative trim, not too ostentatious; haven't decided yet.  ( Hmmmm, maybe some Victorian gingerbread and lacy curtains..........)
 
The kit supplies eight 2x2 mm walnut strips for wales and other things. The wales were to be (most of) three of these per side. The pieces varied in color and I couldn't get six similarly dark ones as I would wish. I was hoping for uniformly dark! I decided to use some of the 2x4 pieces I got from HobbyMill for another aspect of this build, and planed them to 2x3 mm. Two 3mm pieces per wale instead of three 2x2. Here's the color difference:
 

 
The wales are to taper downward to be flush with the 1 mm lower-hull planking. I pre-tapered the pieces with a plane to get most of the taper started, and holding two together on a flat surface, sanded to get more of it done. More will be done in place after gluing.
 
The wales as a whole are to taper a bit (unspecified amount in the instructions) at the bow. I tapered about three inches, taking off the top of the upper strake only, about 3/4 to 1 mm. Planed a bit of bevel on the top edge of these, especially the second, for a better fit.
 
I used full-length strips, maybe not "scale", but I like the clean look better for this part. Here are two views of the better side.


 
I had cut/trimmed the gunports previously, but have a little more sanding to do on those. Starting to look more ship-shape!, getting that bland first planking covered.
 
I'll probably back up and get the quarterdeck planking done and the inner bulwarks covered. Tired of looking at those incomplete sections. (Or is he making an excuse to delay hull planking???.......)
 
I may have found a historical reference to Rattlesnake in cpt Tom's Supply II build log. From a wikipedia article, an American ship Rattlesnake was a candidate for the First Fleet to Australia (transporting convicts), but was rejected for the trip. Rattlesnake was sold out of service that same year, so this is likely her. The article is at:
http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Supply_(1759)
 
Enough for now, I guess...
 
Cheers,
Brian
 
 

Hi Ferit,
 
There IS sort of an unwritten rule (though there has actually been some discusion about it), or oath as you suggested,  of avoiding negative comments of someone's work, and rather, adding positive critcism in a helpful way. But frankly Ferit, no one here is bullshitting you ( forgive the language, moderators) when they praise your modelling talent! The accolades aren't there to make you feel good or to encourage you to do better. You somehow have a real talent for this stuff. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Brian

Well everyone, the transom is almost finished - I have some decorations to add, but I'll save this for a future post. For now, I'll explain how I went about things.
 
1. Cabin windows: after a lot of thought about how to approach things, I decided to first construct and install the cabin windows and then plank around them. I made this backing out of 1/32" basswood - The shape of it was based on the angle of the stern framing installed earlier.
 

 
The window frames were at first a bit of a challenge - given that the area of the windows is much smaller than the quarter galleries. Fortunately, I found these brass tail gates at a local model train shop - I thought I could adapt them as window frames. 
 

 
I trimmed the brass parts to leave a basic frame - I eventually trimmed 5 and laid them across the window backing to get a sense of spacing.
 

 

 
The backing was then painted black, and the frames painted white. I then glued the centre frame and added 1mm x 1mm strips (also white) as vertical frames. I finished off the assembly with some white 1mm x 1mm strips at top and bottom. The whole assembly was then fixed on the model. Here it is.
 

 
2. Planking: The planking was done with 3mm x 1.5mm basswood, except for the planks immediately above and below the windows, which were spiled from a 1.5mm sheet. Here they are, with the upper plank stained Golden Oak and the lower one painted blue - this is the strip on which the name plate will be fixed - another future addition.
 

 
Here is the basic planking finished on the transom
 

 
3. Moldings: I added a curved piece around the edge of the transom - cut from 1/32" sheet & painted blue (I don't know if this feature has a name....can anyone enlighten me?). I also added some 1mm x 1mm moldings as well as a 1mm x 2mm curved molding on the inside of the curved transom piece. 
 
I started by making a template and tracing it onto the sheet:
 

 
I then simply cut it out, painted it and installed it:
 

 
Then the moldings went on - painted black....
 

 
4. Cap rail: I then fabricated the cap rail. This was spiled from a 1mm x 6mm strip. It needed to be thicker across the top (the taff rail) and tapered around the quarter galleries. A little tricky but not too bad - also painted black. Here it is....
 

 
And here is the transom again and a closer shot with cap rail installed.
 

 

 
And here, for comparison, is the part supplied by Corel....
 

 
So that's it...I have to say that I'm quite relived that this part of the build is done. It was a lot of fun puzzling the transom out and putting it together and even though it's not perfect, I'm very pleased with the results. One thing I tried to do and didn't was to apply the name to the lower strip on the transom. I had a sheet of dry transfer letters, but they were black, so they did not really show up - I'm going to try to find some white lettering and apply it to a .5mm x 5mm strip to add later....
 
I also bought some brass bare tree frames from the model train shop, which I'm going to use as decorative elements on the bulwarks and transom - later for that, though.
 
In the meantime, I've begin to install the cap rails & frame ends for the open bulwarks. I'll update this once it's done. For now - hope you're all having a great weekend and happy summer!!
hamilton

Hi Ferit,
 
There IS sort of an unwritten rule (though there has actually been some discusion about it), or oath as you suggested,  of avoiding negative comments of someone's work, and rather, adding positive critcism in a helpful way. But frankly Ferit, no one here is bullshitting you ( forgive the language, moderators) when they praise your modelling talent! The accolades aren't there to make you feel good or to encourage you to do better. You somehow have a real talent for this stuff. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Brian

Hi Ferit,
 
There IS sort of an unwritten rule (though there has actually been some discusion about it), or oath as you suggested,  of avoiding negative comments of someone's work, and rather, adding positive critcism in a helpful way. But frankly Ferit, no one here is bullshitting you ( forgive the language, moderators) when they praise your modelling talent! The accolades aren't there to make you feel good or to encourage you to do better. You somehow have a real talent for this stuff. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Brian

O.k here are the test results. In a link that RiverRat posted, drazen had steamed his planks for 30 minutes. This was a good starting point, but I found that an extra 15 minutes really made the wood pliable. As far as the steam vessle goes, it worked great! This was a test vessel, so I found a few things that I want to change. First, I have a condensate hole in the back where thewater just comes out and splashes into a pan on the floor. I am going to add a drain line and drop it into the pan. This will eliminate the current watery mess that have. Second, I want to move the steam supply to the back cap, I think I might get a better steam surround this way. Third, I want to add a thermometer to see what is going on in there and if need be, insulate the unit. I didn't get fancy with my bends but they were able to bend around themselves easily. With more practice I am sure I can do really tight bends. In the picture below the wood on the left is cherry I belive and the right is a wood supplied with my kit called obeche. Just a few things if you guys build one out of pvc, pitch it back to your supply to allow the condensate to drain and support the unit with a least three supports. The pvc really get soft and if not supported, will bend drastically. Like I said before, I will be using this for my wood working as well as my hobby. Including the Earlex steam generator at full price, this setup came out to less than $100. I know you can use a tea kettle for a steam source. I found that alll new electric kettles will shut off when they achieve a boil. Also, I do not feel comfortable using a portable heat source, especially in my workshop so this was the best choice for me.

My 1780-ish American colonial privateer kit Rattlesnake doesn't include one.
 
Is keeping time with bells a navy thing?
 
Used in privateers or merchantmen?
 
Is there a typical location  for one on the vessel?
 
International use?
 
"Why does the sun keep on shining? Why does the sea rush to the shore?"
 
Brian

The San Felipe

 

I posted a build log about the San Felipe on the old forum but I stopped building because I had to fight a serious illness that took 3 years of my life. In that period my modeling was almost zero and my updates were slow and far apart so my build log disappeared slowly to the end of the list on the old forum. Just when I announced my come-back on the forum, disaster struck again. My mom got very sick and we needed al the spare time we had to look after her. Sadly she past away. The only good thing about this was that we were able to move into the house I was born and raised. Moving in, an living, in an very old house takes it's time. A little over a Year has passed and I finally can start working on my hobby room/workshop and My models. At the moment I'm working on the San Felipe and waiting in the wings are the Lauckstreet Fair American and Mamoli's Royal Louis, but that is a whole different story.

 

When I got introduced to ship modeling (in the pre-internet era) I bought myself a book about ship modeling (in German) by Vincento Lusci. That was an reprint from an older book and full of tips, photo's and drawings and I consider it still as one of the best books around. It was by the way the only book I could find. Anyway, in that book were some drawings and pictures of a San Felipe model. I was hooked right away. Later when my library grew I got another book with some photo's from a scratch-build San Felipe and I consider that model still as one of the best. Needles to say that one day I would built that one. 

 

Time past by (read: built Mantua's Victory, Mamoli's Bounty & Rattlesnake, AL's whaleboat, Sergals Victory in commission my 2nd Victory, Corel's Victory midship section, galeone veneto and Coronne) and I was asked to help out with making some advertisings for the local model shop. They bought a Mac and scanner but didn't had a clue how to operate it, since I was a photographer they thought I new my way around with graphic computers. Beside that it was a strange way of thinking they were right. So I learned them how to make a decent scan. I used a catalog from Mantua as scan example. at the front there was a picture of the San Felipe. I didn't now that Mantua had a model of it and I said " some day I'm going to build that one".

 

After an afternoon scanning and explaining. They thought they got it so I wanted to leave. The shop owner was very pleased with my help and asked "what do I ow you?" I said "nothing, but make me a good deal on my next purchase". When I was outside he came after me with the San Felipe kit as a present. He asked me if it was a problem that the cardboard gunport template was missing. So there I stood with a San Felipe kit in my hands.

 

Next time I will tell you a bit more about the kit and my research after the ship the kit is based on.