michbyerley

Clare:
Amati came through. Wired money for the cost to Emilio last Friday. Got an e-mail today that he is shipping the PE sheet tomorrow by UPS. Apparently, the PE sheet is the same as the one that was missing from the kit, or they still had one on hand from when they did business with Model Expo. Either way, looks like my issue is resolved. Now if I can continue the build until I get to that area I need the Parrels and Rigging Hooks! Still several months away. Just started 2nd. hull planking.
Thanks for all your help.

Clare:
Amati came through. Wired money for the cost to Emilio last Friday. Got an e-mail today that he is shipping the PE sheet tomorrow by UPS. Apparently, the PE sheet is the same as the one that was missing from the kit, or they still had one on hand from when they did business with Model Expo. Either way, looks like my issue is resolved. Now if I can continue the build until I get to that area I need the Parrels and Rigging Hooks! Still several months away. Just started 2nd. hull planking.
Thanks for all your help.

Clare:
 
Thanks for your continued interest and help.
 
When I talked to Emilio this morning, I had a feeling that the parts might be on different sheets now like you suggested. I have offered to pay whatever cost might be involved, including any shipping charges. Hopefully he will be able to supply the parts I need. I did send him a couple pictures of the missing sheet from the plans that had all the parts at full size. Of course, the pictures will not be at the correct size, but since the missing sheet is listed as "Parrels and Rigging Hooks" , hopefully he will be able to figure out what I need.
 
Thanks again for all your support and assistance.

Clare:
 
Just to let you know, I called Amati in Italy today and talked to Emilio..don't know his position with Amati...who asked me to send him a picture of the missing PE sheet from the plans. I have done that and will wait for his reply. He seemed to indicate that the parts they made for the Model Expo model of their Vanguard were not "the same" as for their own version, but I can't believe there would be much difference in these particular parts...just the rigging hooks and parrel assemblies. Hopefully he will be able to help.

Clare:
 
Thanks very much for your help in replacing the missing PE sheet. I have tried to call Amati a couple times in the last few days and no one answered. I wouldn't be surprised if they are closed right now since having traveled in Europe many years ago, I know that a lot of companies close for vacation in July and August. I always thought it might be because of the lack of air conditioning like we have here, but I know it has been a common practice for many years.

Clare:
 
Thanks very much for your help in replacing the missing PE sheet. I have tried to call Amati a couple times in the last few days and no one answered. I wouldn't be surprised if they are closed right now since having traveled in Europe many years ago, I know that a lot of companies close for vacation in July and August. I always thought it might be because of the lack of air conditioning like we have here, but I know it has been a common practice for many years.

Clare:
 
Thanks for the response. Yes, Ages of Sail is who I was told by Model Expo to contact. I first wrote them July 3rd and they said they would "look into it" but last time I checked (a couple weeks ago), they had nothing to tell me one way or another. Marc at Model Expo suggested I contact Roger at Ages of Sail. I did on July 3rd. Since then I have e-mailed with them 3-4 times, but all they say is that "they will see what they can do".
 
I'm still a long way from actually needing these parts since they are for the rigging phase and I am just now finishing the first layer on the hull, but I wanted to get it resolved before any more time had passed, and I expected a delay of probably several weeks or even a few months to get the missing parts.
 
I will try to call Amati and see if they can help. Thanks for giving me their contact information. I was not aware that they were a sponsor of MSW.
 
Mark:
 
Thanks for the info on Daffy. If I can't get the parts I need from Amati, I will certainly give him a call.

I forgot to mention that the Amati PE sheet that is missing was identified in the parts list as "WP 1713" which includes all the parrels and rigging hooks. I also forgot that kit had an extra PE sheet labeled "WP 1717". If anyone needs the duplicate sheet and has an extra PE sheet with the parrels and rigging hooks (ME told me that the part numbers might have changed in the past 8 years), I would be glad to exchange or pay for the one I need.

Glenn:
 
I think the problem with the Vanguard is that I originally bought the kit from Model Expo back in 2009. Mainly because of health issues, I wasn't able to start the build until recently. First I had to finish the Corsair which I had to stop working on about 4 years ago.
 
As you probably know, Model Expo had a licensing agreement back in 2009 with Amati to produce the Vanguard in the US. But that relationship with Amati went "south" in 2010. As I understand the agreement, Amati supplied the plans and all the Photo Etched parts, and ME supplied all the wood.
 
I think what happened is that ME used wood that they already produced in 20"-24" pieces...just like they sell today. Unfortunately, the planking supplied is only 20", so I have three choices...1) stagger the planks at the bow and stern ends only by several inches, 2) replace all the 20" walnut (1mm X 5mm) with longer pieces (not in my budget!), or 3) use the walnut supplied using a 120mm length...like on the deck, a 4 stagger pattern, but probably not try to put in tree nails (although I am considering doing this as well).
 
By the way...the kit also is missing one of the Photo Etched sheets. ME can not replace since they never made them for the kit. I have contacted Amati's US distributor asking for help, but haven't received any positive response. If you or anyone knows Amati's e-mail or phone number, I would like to contact them. When I use the E-mail form on their website, I get a message that the E-mail was "undeliverable". If anyone can help me to contact them, or have some PE sheets from the model, I would be more than happy to pay any costs since I can't finish the model without those PE parts. They are the parrels and rigging hooks.
 
 

All:
 
Thanks for all your suggestions. The local art supply store had some of the Pigma Brush applicators available, so I bought a couple and used them on most of the bottom deck of the Vanguard...the part that is visible from above. I ended up with using line (.15mm) parallel to the planks, and used the brush on every other butt joint.
 
I like the way it came out, and I really think this whole issue of "caulking" is one of those that everyone has their own way that they like the best. None of my builds will end up in a museum, so it's everyone's personal taste that really matters in the end. 
 
I do appreciate all the feedback. I think it is really fun to see how helpful all modeler's are, and all the different techniques that we all use to basically do the same task.

Dan: Thanks for the tip and the picture. We have a local art supply store, so I will give them a look-see and try it.
 
RMC: Thanks for the info...will check it our also.
 
BTW: I am changing the wood from the kit supplied to a harder wood which should help with the bleed. I tested some basswood and tanganika, and the difference was very noticeable. The tanganika did not bleed very much at all compared to the softer basswood using a black stamp pad. I just "tapped" the end twice on the pad and it gave me a good clean covering...especially when I only did one end. I then did a test with .10 thread on the butt ends and not a visible difference vs. the stamp pad pieces.

RMC: Can you give me any more information on the marker you used? Maybe an item number, description, or SKU so I can check out the Modeler's shop in Sydney website. I assume what you used is black? Did you use the marker on both sides and both ends?
 
I have looked at your build log and I think you did a great job on the deck.
 
Scott: When I have used the pencil method, I have also done both ends and both sides. The last two ships I built, I used .15 thread for all the "caulking", parallel to the stripes and at the butt ends, and generally really like the distinctiveness the black thread gives. I found that it also gives a slight little "cushion" between the planks in case they might occasionally have a less than perfect edge. I just thought with all the planking that has to be done on the Vanguard, maybe there was a better way then what I have done in the past.
 
Big part of the reason I love this website is seeing what other's have come up with to resolve issues, or invent jigs, and especially to look ahead on a builder's log to see what issues I am going to confront down the road, and how the builder solved them.

S. Colman:
 
Great idea on clamping 10 or so together...that would speed up the process a lot. Do you also only do one end and one side like Russ suggested, or do you do both ends and both sides?
 
Mich

Russ:
 
Thanks for the picture and the suggestion. I forgot that I have also tried the #2 pencil method on prior builds, and most recently on the display case for the Corsair where I planked the bottom of the case with 6 mm wide planks and 1mm walnut dowel tree-nails. It came out really nice, but I spent a whole lot of time running a pencil across the ends of every plank, and when I started planking the display case, I decided I wanted a little more distinct lines, so I ended up with line at the butt ends after all.
 
Your deck looks really good, especially with only doing one side and one end of each plank.

All:
 
Thanks for all your suggestions. The local art supply store had some of the Pigma Brush applicators available, so I bought a couple and used them on most of the bottom deck of the Vanguard...the part that is visible from above. I ended up with using line (.15mm) parallel to the planks, and used the brush on every other butt joint.
 
I like the way it came out, and I really think this whole issue of "caulking" is one of those that everyone has their own way that they like the best. None of my builds will end up in a museum, so it's everyone's personal taste that really matters in the end. 
 
I do appreciate all the feedback. I think it is really fun to see how helpful all modeler's are, and all the different techniques that we all use to basically do the same task.

Arthur:
 
Thanks for the reply. I looked at it again last night, and I decided that sanding was probably the right answer. There doesn't seem to be as much difference as I thought there would be, perhaps because the planking starts on the outside curve, so it seems to reduce the difference in thickness where the gun port pattern meets the planks.
 
Since you, Glenn, and RMC didn't comment on your build logs about this difference, I decided I was probably over thinking the issue and I would correct the difference with the final shaping of the hull.
 
Thanks again for your help...really appreciated.

Thanks for the replies. Sanding the surface concerns me because of the fine detail on the PE pieces, like the hinges that I'm going to be using for the Roundhouse doors...coming up very soon. I did apply a grey metal primer to the brass before I started painting, and it worked fine on the black hinges, but the gold "columns" that are part of the roundhouse didn't. The paint did not adhere very well, so I took it off and that is why I was looking at alternative methods before I try again. The primer I used is designed...at least it is supposed to be...specifically for brass PE material. I am using Calder Admiralty paints that I purchased from England, so it it my be just the gold that is troublesome.
 
Cog:
 I will check out the link you gave.
 
Appreciate your help.

I am painting photo etched parts (Vanguard) for the first time. Previous builds did not use PE parts. I have read first using a primer, washing with soap and water, soak in vinegar, and  "dabbing" with lacquer thinner before painting. One person even suggested using sandpaper so the paint would stick to the brass PE. That one I don't think I will try.
 
Advise and suggestions as to what works best for you?
 
Mich

Thanks for the replies. Sanding the surface concerns me because of the fine detail on the PE pieces, like the hinges that I'm going to be using for the Roundhouse doors...coming up very soon. I did apply a grey metal primer to the brass before I started painting, and it worked fine on the black hinges, but the gold "columns" that are part of the roundhouse didn't. The paint did not adhere very well, so I took it off and that is why I was looking at alternative methods before I try again. The primer I used is designed...at least it is supposed to be...specifically for brass PE material. I am using Calder Admiralty paints that I purchased from England, so it it my be just the gold that is troublesome.
 
Cog:
 I will check out the link you gave.
 
Appreciate your help.

I am painting photo etched parts (Vanguard) for the first time. Previous builds did not use PE parts. I have read first using a primer, washing with soap and water, soak in vinegar, and  "dabbing" with lacquer thinner before painting. One person even suggested using sandpaper so the paint would stick to the brass PE. That one I don't think I will try.
 
Advise and suggestions as to what works best for you?
 
Mich

S. Colman:
 
Great idea on clamping 10 or so together...that would speed up the process a lot. Do you also only do one end and one side like Russ suggested, or do you do both ends and both sides?
 
Mich

Russ:
 
Thanks for the picture and the suggestion. I forgot that I have also tried the #2 pencil method on prior builds, and most recently on the display case for the Corsair where I planked the bottom of the case with 6 mm wide planks and 1mm walnut dowel tree-nails. It came out really nice, but I spent a whole lot of time running a pencil across the ends of every plank, and when I started planking the display case, I decided I wanted a little more distinct lines, so I ended up with line at the butt ends after all.
 
Your deck looks really good, especially with only doing one side and one end of each plank.

Russ:
 
Thanks for the picture and the suggestion. I forgot that I have also tried the #2 pencil method on prior builds, and most recently on the display case for the Corsair where I planked the bottom of the case with 6 mm wide planks and 1mm walnut dowel tree-nails. It came out really nice, but I spent a whole lot of time running a pencil across the ends of every plank, and when I started planking the display case, I decided I wanted a little more distinct lines, so I ended up with line at the butt ends after all.
 
Your deck looks really good, especially with only doing one side and one end of each plank.