William-Victory
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Everything posted by William-Victory
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Aftermarket yards and Masts for plastic kits
William-Victory replied to William-Victory's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Ok. I'm back at it. Will be creating blocks and pendants for a little while. Then I'll start back at the rigging for the bowsprit. I'v been evicted from our spare bedroom and now in the shed. (picture) This is not a friendly scale model environment. If there is a 'pimp my model room show' please think of me. HA!!! In the summer it will be hot enough to soften plastic in here. -
Aftermarket yards and Masts for plastic kits
William-Victory replied to William-Victory's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Took a break from building. Starting to get motivated again. Though really I’m at the point where I am building blocks and tack. Not much to show. I’m confident nobody wants to see a picture of each block. -
I've found an oak cabinet for $40! Eggs ARE really cheaper in the country! It was a three man lift. My Victory is looking tiny now but when the rigging and Top galants go on it should fill it up a bit more.I have room for a couple more boats in there. (You know I put a note in the Hull before buttoning it up. I forgot what the heck I said! Doh!!
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Found this Vac on Amazon. Used it for the past hour. Works well on my 1/100 Victory. Would work even better in larger scales. No buyers remorse.
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Just posting today that I still havent found peace, quiet and drive. I've hit a mental block it seems. Though I am now starting on the rigging and finding it vexing sometimes. Hope y'all are well. I'll be working on the again ship soon.
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Wire seems like a good thing to try. I would hope it would hold its shape and not end up looking like the muff of a 70’s porn queen if I make a mistake. Yar!!!!
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I just bought some a little while ago. Its finer than human hair and strong. But I am a beginner and it gets away from me and I end up with rats nest on the end of my blocks. Really fine and can be hard to work with at first.
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Haven't had time lately... I'm needing to increase the space I have so I can work on the yards etc. Plus I always take a break from building when it feels monotonous.
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To make the deadeyes black I wanted to stain them with india ink. But they seem to be coated already and it didnt take. So I am painting them like I painted the cannon with spray paint.
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Yeah thank you. Bad news is fine with me. I have thick skin when it comes to helpful criticism. I said the heck with it. Bought some nice dead eyes and more walnut blocks. The blocks look great on the guns. And a lot better than the kit versions to work with.
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I just tried simulating a shroud with the kit dead eyes and you can see it popped from the dead eye and is then pulling just on the lanyards.
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This is a motivational find for me. Looks great! The presentation is exactly what I envisioned as well without the matching chest. Nice touch! Thanks for putting this up!
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The two cannon in the forecastle have me a little stumped today. I have seen them tied down in the location you see in the picture. Searching the internet I can't find where those two cannon are stowed. Should I tie them down there? Some builds I see they left the two cannon off.
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I finished one carronade today. Maybe two hours work. The carronades I have been itching to work on since I started. The blocks I got from model shipways are really a lot easier to work with.
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Chilling on the porch with a some and coffee. Nerves are tattered trying to get this carronade finished. Will get to it...
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I looked here and on the net for an alternative to using plastic yards in the kit. I found some in 1/350 I believe it was. There were no 1/100 scale yards to be found.. (by me). Does anyone know of alternatives to flimsy plastic yards out there? I don't have the tools to make them aside from casting them.
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Made my first tack today. Three hours to do this first one. my hooks are on the massive side. I’m finding you can only go so small in scale until things start looking toy/toon-ish.
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So. Good morning! My dead eyes came in yesterday and I jump right in to try a set out. Getting the chain mounted securely to the wood was effortless and it cant come unglued like the original dead eye from the kit. The small groove in the circumference of the walnut dead eye will do better to keep the shroud centered. Kit parts don't have that groove. The lashings are too close for the .6mm rope I think. I measured the diameter of the kit dead eye to order the walnut pieces at 4mm, though it still looks tiny. If painted the may look bigger.
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Thanks for the clarification on the chain. I think Alumilite has glass filled resin for structural strength. I'm using the kit resin which I am sure is too brittle. I'll try the glass/resin and stress it to see its strength. I still have doubts about its aging ability though. Already ordered walnut deadeyes. I only have the Forward Starboard side with finished chains so changing to wood is still doable. Making a mold below.... and then realized... its stuck to my desk.
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Well I have never done resin before. I'm jumping in with both feet on this. Gonna practice, then get some glass/resin and hope its strong enough for yards.
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I started work on the bow again while I contemplate what to do. I ordered some 4mm walnut dead-eyes. The kit dead-eyes (below) don't have a groove for the shrouds to center in either. So I expect problems when I tighten a shroud that it wont slip off the dead-eye under tension. I flicked one of the yards on the sprue and immediately decided I need resin yards. The other option is to only rig the standing rigging?
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I did think the same thing too. That they are looking short. Not sure what I am going to do from this point forward. I really want the longer lanyards but I am so far along. Below is the page from the manual. The manufacturer suggested the lanyards done on the frame. Under tension it looks like only 1:1 space (below)
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Getting to the main mast chains. The etched parts offer two lengths for the first dead-eyes. The plate has two dates. 1803-1814. I dont have the entryway on the side so I need to use the correct chain length woth the correct year. Any help?
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