niwotwill
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Thank you Richard and all the likes from the others. 👍 -
Everything fixed and ready to start where I left off. Gaff rigged
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Finally finished the repairs with the addition of the main royal backstays. This has been a long and tedious process where I found it necessary to make the minor adjustments as described. The only thing left to bring me up to the time the model was packed is the boom rigging. This was not damaged in transit and only became loose so I'll get to that tomorrow. Picture of main royal backstays While working on the backstays I kept looking at the deck furniture and how much I liked the way it looked so I took another picture.
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I'm slowly getting back to where I had stopped before moving. Today getting the main top gallant shrouds back into their correct position. After trying to rearrange the shrouds I found it necessary to remove them and reroute with new. The same was with the main top gallant back stays. Now on to the gaff sail rigging that is laying on the deck and over hanging the sides. Sorry had to define the model and prints behind.
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A lot of work without much to talk about meaning getting the cheek on the fore topmast head fixed with the jib stay in place. The problem was the cheek had split leaving no sheave for the jib stay. I had to smooth the cheek still attached to the mast and and make a new cheek for the jib stay sheave. To make the jib stay remain in place I pushed a small pin through the remaining cheek and the mast and taking the new cheek pushing onto the pin with glue. I the trimmed the pin and painted the new parts.
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Just a quick update. The dolphin striker is very secure with addition of the support piece. So now on to how to fix the starboard fore top mast cheek that the jib stay runs through. So just a photo of the repaired dolphin striker.
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While pressing ahead with the investigation I decided to follow the manual assembly. So the dolphin striker was the first repair. With the rigging not allowing the part to be just glued I had to make a jig to hold the parts until the glue set. The martingale lines seized and run to the being set to the bow kept the striker in place longitudly leaving only the correct width spacing. Using the plans I made at jig to hold the spacing correct and needed something to support the break. At the top joint of the strikers I made a triangular piece out of 1/32" sheet. These are the parts made laying the drawing. To make the jig to space the strikers I used a 1/8 by 1/32 strip and attached a piece on the strip that would keep the spacing This with the jig and support laying on the plans as the would on the actural part. I hope Sorry for the focus of the photos Rather than trying to place the parts I decided to glue the broken pieces with CA holding while setting. With the parts in place and the glue not completely set I was able to add triangular support and the jig at the bottom keeping the spacing and angle correct. I used alligator clips to keep the jig in place and after setting the support more alligator used to keep the support firmly against the striker legs while the glue set. When the glue has set I'll paint the support and the glue to eliminate the shinny joints
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Well my shop has been completed and I've weeks setting up my equipment and figuring out where everything goes. I had only peeked inside the Syren shipping crate for a quick inspection to ensure it made the move, but now with the model unpacked. UHG is all I can say. While waiting for a year for our basement and my shop to be completed I built a couple of plastic models to make the year pass. I set up a work area in dining room to build the plastic models and that is where I'll finish the Syren. Sitting on the table allowed me to see just how much has been damaged so now how to proceed. I took some photos showing the damage and for me to best determine where to start. I think the best way forward is to fix the dolphin stricker more when I figure my method. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
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Finished the boom crutches final shaping and applied the first coat of black paint. Next to be built are the mounting steps with the first being creating a scraping tool to make the edge shapes. Using a 1/32" thick piece of brass sheet I files the shape making sure the sides would fit the piece of woods thickness. Using the tool the shapes were drawn onto the wood strip. The strip was cut into 6 correct lengths and sanded to the finished shapes. Shape shown on end of strip before being cut to length. After carefully removing a section of strip the steps were glued in place as shown on the plans using a piece of masking tape to ensure step alignment. Next to paint and apply wipe on poly to the bare wood matching the existing.
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Finally finished the starboard crutch and added some putty so now let it all set up. Too Chucks statement is "now just do it again" that was a classic understatement. I can tell how hard it was to make another as it took days of cutting, filing and sanding to get a somewhat correct piece. Now as to how many attempts can be seen in this pile Now I'll and some gesso to seal the new wood and putty before painted. While in the painted process I proceed to the mounting ladder and channels.
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With all that done it is time to make the boom crutches. These are going to be simulated to be an extension of the fashion piece. Following the manual I first made the stem angle aligned with the fashion piece when viewed from the rear. The second angle is to align with fashion piece when viewed from the side. These are to simulate being one piece with fashion piece. Now the face needs to be looking at the mast and with this done I glued the crutch to the cap rail. Next will be filling the joint and sanding making it appear as an extension of the fashion piece. That said it took two full days and seven attempts to make one. Couple of photos from stern and side Not to sand the top making the last angle toward where the boom would be at rest. Putty and paint. Oh yea I have to make another for the other side.
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Now with the deck completed its time to start the cap rail tops. I spent a few hours trying to decide whether to use Alaskan Yellow Cedar or Boxwood. The Boxwood held an edge better the AYC but was very hard to cut so in the end I'll use AKC. First were the timberheads where I followed the suggested method by drawing a pattern on a shaped piece of wood. I cut the first and then used it as the pattern so I could make all 6 with the same shape. It was also time to shape the rudder and make a hole in the counter. Drilling the hole in the counter was nerve wracking let me tell you. All done for some photos. Rudder shaped with a piece that simulates the rudder post inside the counter Forward timberheads After timberheads and you can see the rudder hole that still needs to be painted
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Not much to say except the deck is planked waiting for glue to set. Tomorrow I'll sand and scrape if I get that done wipe on poly will be applied. Next is reading the instructions and start with another project.
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Starboard side deck complete and ready for scraping and sanding. Cutting the margin plank was not very difficult towards the bow but when cutting the aftermost was very difficult. Forward the margin plank has a rather severe curve that allowed the cuts rather short. The short cuts made matching the plank into the nibbing fairly quick without too many oops along the way. The after plank nibbing made for long cuts into the margin plank. Several of these were slightly off grain so many new blades were required. The last is 1/4" wide and made of three pieces. I was able to make the ends from 3/16" planks nibbed into the margin. The center plank is the 1/4" wide with a radius cut into the margin plank side which allowed the ends to align with end pieces. The center was extremely difficult to make. First I tried making a pattern from paper and then cutting a poster card with no success. Finally taking the plank sanding one end to align with the 3/16" end piece and with trial and error getting the width and radius correct I cut the plank to length. Lastly sanding the shape to match the curve and butt against the forward end piece. It all came together The photo exaggerates the butt joints which are tighter than the iPhone photo
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Finished the planking up to needing to start ribbing. I've never nibbed a deck into the waterway so I'm going to Rocky Mountain Shipwrights meeting tomorrow. The club is part of Nautical Research and has a meeting on the first Saturday of each month to help and just meet on the third Saturday is the club general meeting. This is a very active club and I'm glad to be a member. More after the meeting tomorrow
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Center planking completed. Several logs mentioned how difficult the center planking had been for them. The manual simply states to start in the center and makes no mention of dificulty. During this process my wood bin got its fair share to fend off hunger. I found it necessary to add an additional plank that facilitates a slight notch around the largest hatch. This worked well finishing the planking by making a logical plank length to build off starting the 4 plank shift pattern. The walnut wood is more varied in color than I wished but after scraping at the mast hole the colors were not as varied so i'm hoping that the deck will blend into a more uniform pattern. Tomorrow I'll start the second plank of the 4 plank shift pattern.
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Couple of days working on the center plankings between the furniture pieces. A lot of measuring, cutting, filing and fitting and making a new one. Slow and methodical work with not much to show for the hours spent. This is where I stopped today. The starboard piece laying on the false deck is the next to be notched around the companionway and skylight. Studying the work I've done and how it progresses along with several decks where the bent the planks rather that ribbing them into the waterway I decided to nib them. I feel the bent deck planking makes the deck appear to bulbous and the straight seem to be more common.
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Started post and went to lunch so I'm not sure how the photos got reversed. OOPS on my part.
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Another short update. The center planks completed from bow to first hatch. th Now its on the lining off the deck for final planking. Prior to lining the deck I needed to protect the finish planking. I've used foam rubber on another model with copper plating with great results. No damage. I'll use the same method this time. Bought a remnant of 5" foam at JoAnns. Cutting a slot the length of the hull and then cutting along the sides creating a valley where the ship sits. I also find that this is very helpful when rigging on the top of a lazy susan. Now on to lining off the deck for planking.
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Short post bringing everything I completed up to date. Finished all the deck furniture Lined off the hull First plank laid More planks tomorrow
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So I thought I was ready for planking but, I forgot the small forward hatch and galley cover. Needing my mill and having everything packed in boxes from the move forced me to unpack 14 boxes of shop stuff. Spent two days doing the first organizing in my new space. I have some tall cabinets on order so I'll do a proper job of organizing. With the mill found now how to put together. Took quite awhile to remember what went where and then put it all together. Spent the afternoon aligning and squaring and thank goodness for lasers to make it level and square. It had been two years since I cut any wood and I can't tell you how good it felt. Found the stock from the larger hatch and went to work. Previously I had made the grate using Syrens kits so it was striaght to the coaming. True confessions the wood bin was well fed. Completed grate after one coat of wipe on poly Next on the the galley vent
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Two years and a lot has happened to me and the family. First we left Arizona and returned to Colorado. One morning while sitting at breakfast I said "I don't like it here and want to go home" my wife said "I don't like it either". We put the house up for sale and in two days we had many offers. Choosing one we soon discovered we had no where to go. Back in Colorado and setting up a workshop. We hired a professional moving company and they made custom shipping crates for my models. Nothing was damaged but I think the vibrations in the moving truck caused some breakage in the gaff rigging that will need to be fixed before starting the finishing. All that said I'll soon get back to Syren after finishing some other chores. But just wanted to say I will be back on site finishing the Syren
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It would be funny to say "Well I'm back" since I've been gone for 2 years but I'm back. A little history 4 years ago we moved to Arizona to become snowbirds but it never felt like home. In Nov of 22 we moved back to Colorado. New house, no shop, and too many boxes. I did a miserable job of packing my workshop and now I don't know what box has what. We finished our walkout basement and framed up an area for my shop. All that being done today I finally started just unpacking boxes not knowing what I'd find. One box had soldering equipment both soft and silver solder. Put all of the equipment in a wall cabinet and boy did that feel good. So much to do but I'm back. Now I'm ready to start planking the Cheerful's deck so new will be progress posts.
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Love the wipe on poly. Makes the planks have a finished appearance highlighting how the wood takes the poly and changes the color. Now the trunnels really become part of the visual experience. Very nice Kenny
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Amazing Andrew. Love the net and the catch in salted boxes. I believe they salted the catch. I am in awe of your work.
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