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niwotwill

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Everything posted by niwotwill

  1. niwotwill
    Feeling better and able to spend some hours working on Erycina but truly I had to read my log to remember where I had been doing before covid. I spent some time making sure the pins are snug enough to stay in place while inserting into the lower deadeyes. Once the jig was completed started hanging shrouds. As I've stated I'm leaving the kit as designed, no kit bashing this time. You will see that the shrouds have not been served and I'm using furnished line instead of making my own even though the kit line is not up to ropewalk rope. I threaded all the deadeyes leaving the lines loose until all shrouds were completed. Next the deadeyes were evened while tightening the shrouds. First starboard shroud First port shroud Starboard main and mizzen Port main and mizzen shrouds All deadeye snugged up but still loose for future adjustment if necessary. Next was the topmast shrouds following the same procedure but with a wire formed to keep the bullseyes at a uniform distance. I finished the day with the main stay. I know I said i was not going to kit bash but the main stay to an eye on top of the stem was too much. Following the "Master Hand" drawings in Sailing Trawlers I want to rig my fore stay as done on Master Hand. Problem was I had already made the stem and bulwarks so I had to modify my approach Master Hand forestay came down to the stem through hole and exiting inboard to be bent to the gypsy winch. Unable to drill the exit hole a hole was drilled through the stem and a groove made along the front of the stem for the line; You can see the groove and line entering the through hole Pulling the forestay tight required a method of using 3mm closed hearts from "Syren Models". Once lashed to the forestay and winch end they were lashed pulling the forestay tight. Thats enough for today maybe tomorrow I can get the ratlines. Will
  2. niwotwill
    Andrew you asked about rigging and specifically serving as shown in March's photos and Master Hand drawings, I've decided to leave the kit as designed. Meaning I'll use the furnished lines and not attempt modeling originality by making my own rope, serving as shown. Also with the down time reading Sail Trawlers I see a few things that could be done to model originally. (specifically chapters 5 & 6) Thank you for your kind words about covid. I've only spent a couple hours in the shop as I still get very tired. Tuesday was a bad day as I again had a fever with the aches but not as bad as the first this one only up to 101.6. Again thank you, Will
  3. niwotwill
    After watching the Cheerful planking its hard to imagine getting better planking, but you've done it. I can see you're using the Byrnes thickness sander to achieve these excellent results. Glenn I love to watch your logs they keep getting better. Regards Will
  4. niwotwill
    Andrew Fantastic what more can be said. Tell me how you weathered the boxes? The colors are correct (really period correct) do you mix your own colors? You've got to finish the remodel of daughters bedroom and get back at Nisha. I'm feeling better and getting more strength from covid and can't even imagine how people in the hospital feel. Regards Will
  5. niwotwill
    Jean-Paul I must say each time I look at her i love the wood colors. Wonderful job. Regards Will
  6. niwotwill
    Hi Dan and welcome aboard. You've been given excellent advice on where to start and how to get help. This forum and build logs has been invaluable to my building. I'm building Erycina by Vanguard and it is not a beginner kit but still a simple model. The David Antscherl kits are a great way to start and make fine looking models along with his great tips of how too. Just a personal note of starting too big I did and lost interest with it and came back to a smaller kit that I could finish and admire while working on a larger model. Regards and welcome Will
  7. niwotwill
    Reading about this elevated support method to keep the frames true leaves me with wondering if this is not a version of Harold Hahns method of securing the frame alignment. Just wondering. Regards
  8. niwotwill
    I have kept to Chris Wattons' design of the model and now reaching the rigging wondering which way to go. Reading "Sailing Trawlers" by Edgar J. March it appears that the standing rigging differs in detail from the model plans. Understanding Chris's desire to keep the model in the moderate to build catagory while maintaining visual accuracy was the desire. March's writings and drawings show the same basic configuration but with a more accurate as built configuration with the shrouds served and the forestay routing. I'd like to hear some opinions and/or suggestions on the matter of which way to go. Regards Will
  9. niwotwill
    alized that I needed to blacken the coming parts i.e. belaying pins, hooks, etc. so I blackened them all. After that I'm ready for the shrouds but needed to make a simple jig keeping the deadeyes aligned. Got some scrape boxwood out of the waste box and drilled 4 .021 holes matching the holes in the deadeyes. Pushed income pins for alignment using the top two and bottom two on the deadeye. I've used these on other rigging and they hold the deadeyes while seizing to the shroud keeping everything taught. Out of time today and I'd hoped to get the shrouds on today but on to them tomorrow. Regards Will
  10. niwotwill
    Many thanks to everyone for the looks, thanks, and kind words. These keep me motivated to complete Erycina as getting close is always hard for me to finish rather than say its good enough. THANK YOU ONE AND ALL Bob Erycinas' main top sail is only seized to the end of the gaff with a halyard through a sieve in the topmast and a downhaul through a single block to the deck. Below photo is from the Erycina drawings belonging to Vanguard Models Hope this helps Regards Will
  11. niwotwill
    Thanks for the kind remarks Andrew. As too tying the sails I spoke with JamesH (the prototype builder for Chris) about how he did the sails. First to note is the bolt rope is sewn onto the sail and therefore loose. Meaning it can be pulled out of the sewing loops. What JamesH suggested is make a hole directly adjacent to the bolt rope with just a few sail threads from the edge. I then tied a length rope through the hole with a simple half hitch. I seal my knots with medium CA. The trick I use is to get a very small amount of CA on the exiting threads of the knot and it wicks into the knot body. How I do this is to take a 1" long push pin with plastic ball and insert it into the CA bottle tip with he CA in the bottle neck. When the pin is extracted it wipes the pin leaving the slightest CA coating. Lay the pin on the thread and it wicks into the knot without adhering to the knotted item. Attaching the sail to the hoops was with the loose ends from the sail using a clove hitch. Using the clove hitch doesn't seem to make a knot bump (technical talk) and is sealed again the the pin and CA method. Oh yeh! but you probably already know this the drawings are not scale so I use them as a pattern not actual locations for the holes. Measured the sail divided by the spaces and marked accordingly. Hope this helps Regards Will
  12. niwotwill
    Tomorrow starts the rigging. First the standing rigging shrouds and ratlines and then on to the stays. Today I finished the mizzen sail to the gaff and mast. The masts were mounted using the supplied holes in the deck and false. The main mast has an alignment hole in the lower deck for perfect alignment. The mast coats glued in place and these are for visual effect only. This is a view of the main mast and coat. I Think the mast coat should have been darker, but oh well! This the Erycina as she stands in the sunlight. Closer view of the main mast and sail Closer view of mizzen mast and sail And as mentioned tomorrow on the the standing rigging and getting close to finish. Regards Will
  13. niwotwill
    Well I'm back in the shop at least for an hour. Better now so I completed the main sail to gaff and got the main sail to mast finished. After an hour got really tired so tomorrow on to the mizzen sail to gaff and mast. Not much to describe so just pictures. Mizzen gaff attached. Attaching the main sail. Couple views main sail on boat. Oh yeh! I forgot to mention that the mast and mizzen have mast coats in the laser cut wood. The book doesn't talk about them so I'm going to use them. Rounded the outside edge with a slight radius and stained them using a dark walnut stain. Since they should have some kind of stuffing saturated in grease and basically black I think the dark walnut will work. I'm afraid to glue the main mast in until the mizzen is complete with both ready for shrouds. Regards Will
  14. niwotwill
    Andrew I've got something for you to noodle on. The main & mizzen sails exactly matches the length of their gaffs and masts. Just something to further the parts rather than the drawings. Regards Will
  15. niwotwill
    My bad Andrew. Since nothing is attached to the heel of the bowsprit I just shorten it to agree with the prototype. (my opinion visual appearance overcome actual dimensions) With Erycinas drawings I found them to be reduced by 16%. That being said I multiplied measured dimensions by 1.16. What I found was sails about 1/8" longer along the mast. Regards Will
  16. niwotwill
    Andrew I noticed that you're referencing March's drawing of the ketch rigged Master Hand for you bowsprit detail. I've not spent the time researching Nisha as you, I used March's mumble bee measurement on p202 and if I read correctly the 98mm outside mightn't be 104.8mm. If this is correct the 6mm would be more in line with prototype build. By no means am I an expert and please forgive me if I'm wrong. Regards Will
  17. niwotwill
    Just a quick photo showing the sails true colors. Regards Will
  18. niwotwill
    Thanks James for the photo rotating. Tell me about how you did the rotation in paint? Regards Will
  19. niwotwill
    Bob I looked in the usual places with no luck. Regards Will
  20. niwotwill
    I'm very happy with them Andrew and thanks for the multi-colored suggestion. Really happy with the dye that colored the stitching. Next week is my birthday and the Admiral got a package from England that's about the size and shape of a model from Vanguard. She put it away somewhere so I'll have to wait. Best Regards Will
  21. niwotwill
    Sails dyed with no oops. So glad its over. The dye used also correctly colored the sewing threads. Now on to shaping and attaching to the mast rings. No Problems there. 😁 Riiiiight sails drying after rinsing in cold water I used the time in the dye solution to create the different shades the darkest being the least used and lightest be used the most. Below is the dye used. Best Regards Will
  22. niwotwill
    Andrew I going to use the 3rd row and mix the times to get as you said varying shades. Best Regards Will
  23. niwotwill
    Thanks james. I'll definitely iron after sail dying. Thanks to everyone for the looks and nice comments. I've been noodling about the sail colors and have decided a more brown red color for my Erycina. I'm kind of partial to the brownish color as when I bought a dirt colored T-Shirt in Hawaii year Rit Dye in for all fabrics in orange and tan. I kept saying I want brownish red how's that going to happen with bright orange and tan? So I got one of her looks and said ok. We cut up an old pillow case just a little heaver weave for samples. She then gave me a starting formula and said off you go. Got my hot plate and old SS pan and set up on my work area. Here are all the supplies supplies gathered so off I go to mix my first patch. 16 oz of water, 1 tsp of plain salt, a dab (Admirals measurement) of dish soap, 200 degrees fahrenheit and 15 minutes. I made four batches as the receipt shows They are not as red as the picture shows much more brown I even set one on Erycina to get a feel of the color. I'm going to use the 3rd row from the left center swatch. Tomorrow I'll start dying sails and hoping they will look as I hope. Best Regards Will
  24. niwotwill
    beautifully done as you have shown in all your work. Glad to hear you got the thickness sander as you said it makes less sanding necessary. Best Regards Will
  25. niwotwill
    I've reached the point of dread, I've got to dye the sails. They have been laying flat since the beginning of the model and most of the fold creases have flattened. The next sail post will be them drying but here are some pictures showing the translucency. Best Regards Will

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