niwotwill

Also a note to all airbrush gunners. I found the awesome website for airbrush spray equipment and paint. spraygunner.com great select, good prices, and fast delivery Best Regards Will

Thanks for the nice comments Bob, Don, Andrew always nice to read Andrew I use Mission Models paint and as said above I tested for coverage and lifting with great coverage and not being able to lift with tape. I was spraying at 35psi but have found 25psi give a more even pattern and easier to use as it uses less paint. I used the thinned ready to use paint. Here's a picture of the paint used the white is for the boot line These work like a rattle can as the have a ball in them that rattles when shaken as directed. Hope this helps Best Regards Will

like the cross section approach. nice start except the baby poop. Just a thought if you're using kit material (i.e. basswood) you might try WOP on material before using and then another coat when finished. Its worked for me but it is a pain. Best Regards Will

Thanks Bob G and Chris for the tape help. I have the Tamiya flexible tape but its a vinyl and I'm a little skeptical about it holding lines. I have some 2mm Tamiya tape that I'll use for the waterline boot. After checking and checking the tape and many deep breaths it was time to paint. Sprayed the first coat with great results I'm very happy with the first coat. First coat with great coverage. With other reds I've had coverage problems when going over white as red does go on almost translucent. Maybe its the brown in the red but great coverage. Second coat in the booth just starting to setup. This afternoon was another nailbitier and after many deep breaths I took the tape off. When it came off I was in a OMG moment. It looks as I hoped it would.. While painting process continued with it stops and starts I made up the companionway, the ladder, started the main block, and steam winch base. The companionway leaves me with a unsatisfied feeling. With the 1mm material that would make the siding 2-1/2" thick the same as the side planking. With the plans not being in scale, I might use my ratio and blow up to scale making another companionway. I'll see what I can find in March's book. Anyway here's what I made I'm going to jump ahead and make all the deck furniture that needs to be painted green so I can clean the gun and put the booth back on the shelf for another project. Best Regards Will

Andrew she's looking really good its showing off your work. And you're right about March's book it really brings many things that could be done. Ah kit bashing. I was going to bash Erycina but decided to leave the kit as Chris designed. You can see a large omission in the photo of BM45, below the bulwark planking is a 1" opening the length of the bulwarks for scuppers. Kits have no way to dry the deck. One note on the wales and floors strakes is 1/64" makes a huge difference in the boats appearance, but too much makes a heavy appearance. IMO. Looking very nice Will

Thanks for the nice comments and likes it means a lot. Two day of sanding, taping and priming resulting in the below photo. Not much to tell except adding the waterline. It took two tries to get the stern area with a smooth line ending where the books shows. The stem was not clearly defined so I placed the pencil at the known location at the stern post. Drawing the line forward to the stem looks to be about where the photos and drawing show. The drawings are not to scale so measuring them was out. I made ratio between the drawing and the 1:64 scale and measured the distance to the waterline from a know location so I could ratio it to measure on the stem. The method of starting at the stern post and working forward had the waterline less than a 1/32" from the measured. Good to go. Using Tamiya tape is difficult as doesn't flex. With the waterline being fairly dark you can see though the tape so rather than small lengths I used a 18mm piece and cut the tape with a sharp #11. Painted the primer. I use automotive grey primer as it flows very flat and dries to touch in a few minutes. Primer brings out the worst of the planking and basic sanding. Going to be a lot of putty and more sanding and then more primer. Let everything set added the putty on the seams and sanded almost down to bare wood. Looking much better. I'll wait until the primer cures overnight to see if more putty and sanding is required. Best regards Will

Andrew you are absolutely correct about the nature of these boats. In March's book there is a picture of Erycina being painted while on the sand so I'm presenting her as new. Couple of seasons and she would be very scrappy. Best retards Will

Hello Andrew Thanks for the nice comments. Have you started the Nisha? and a log? The kit deck is maple and I've wiped two coats of Wipe on Poly. Yes it does seem darker just the lighting I think. Went outside and took a picture in sunlight but looking at it, it does appear to have darkened. How do like my stand "the rubbish container ready for pickup"? Best Regards Will

Goodmorning All Spent the evening wondering how I'd spent so much time with so little accomplished. Looking at the pictures it hit me sanding char of 50 timberheads and the .8mm thick cap rails without loosing or breaking anything was a time consuming tedious task. Reading Edgar Marsh's "Fishing Trawlers" I saw details missing from then kit. I originally thought I'd do some kit bashing on the Erycina but with the beauty of the kit I decided to leave it as Chris intended. Just wanted to explain why so much time yielded what appears so little progress, but beauty is in the details while leaving the kit as designed. Best Regards Will

Thank you Bob and Andrew for the kind words and everyone else for the likes. Had a day full of lots of little details. Surprising how the little details bring the model to life, such as rounding the ends of the fife rails. softening the edges of the cap rails A day spent with the details getting ready to turn her over and paint the red oxide below the waterline. Doing this reminded me I have to add the rub rail at the bottom of the bulwarks. Its drying as I painted it black and will look tomorrow seeing if its good or needs another coat. Looking aft starboard looking aft port looking forward Hopefully tomorrow will be day of change to move beyond the deck structures. Regards Will

Now it was time to unwrap Ercyina and look at the paint job. I love Tamiya masking tape. Not a drop of bleed and the edges are sharp and crisp. The transom bulwarks Time to glue the deck to the false deck with a bunch of clamps. It was hard to put the clamps on the fresh paint but no problems. It was a big decision to paint the inside of the bulwarks, but I really like the results especially when I started adding timberheads. Getting tired of timberheads I went on to something less stressful. Made the fish hatches. I was very difficult to align the bottom with top coamings so after the glue set the disk sander made everything flush. Knowing boats did not have square sharp edges and corners I sanded radii and softened edges of the coamings. I'm going to use wipe on poly on all bare wood parts (already did the deck). WOP was applied to the hatches. WOP on pear wood is a nice dark shade so on to more timberheads tomorrow. Best Regards Will

Well we're in the new year and have made some progress not that the holidays are over and everybody settled. Thanks Bob always appreciate your comments. I'm from Sacramento born at "Sutter Hospital". Finished the second layer of planking. The pear in the kit was of varying thickness so out came the thickness sander. All planks down to same thickness and a smoother surface than the saw ripping. I used Chuck Passaros method of lining off the hull and making tick strips to mark the planks. All worked out very well except that I did have more creep than I thought I would so the last plank was hand shaped. With the planking finished I moved on to removing the bulkheads about the false deck. That was not a difficult as expected. With pliers they just snapped off leaving slight pieces to hand finish. Here's what is really amazing the thin deck fit without any adjustments. I can't say it enough how great this kit is. Its truly a statement of excellence to Chris. I decided to paint both sides of the bulwarks so I taped out the outside and inside for spraying. Time to break out my homemade custom spray booth (a large packing box with the lids cut off and seams taped) and start painting. Deck taped Erycina in booth Erycina after first coat of green paint. Look at the stern for a view of coverage Just a tip to modelers I started using "Mission Models" paint and must say it covers well and sprays good. They have a large color pallet from which to choose. On a lark I tried their airbrush ready paint in a bottle. Shake the bottle then add to gun reservoir sprayed with 35psi at 6" it produced a even wet surface. I must be getting lazy as the premixed was easy to use with great results. More painting tomorrow Best Regards Will

As always Patrick your attention to detail ends with magnificent results. Very well done really well done I mean. Just one thing I did not think of on my and has resulted it uneven tarnishing. FINGERPRINTS. Best regards and a Happy and Healthy New Year Will

More work on the bulwark outer layer especially the starboard. The holes don't align between the inner and outer layers. This is not a huge issue as some file work on the inner layer brings the into alignment. This is the starboard side and in not really a problem since you have to file the hole for the bowsprit. The bowsprit hole will be tapered to the angle of the bowsprit. Not sure where the filler sanding dust came from but you can see the white dust. Port side This hole was filed into alignment using a #2 cut round swiss file. You can see the start if planking at the stem. Finished 12 strakes with 4 to go. Just a little light sanding making sure the planking will look okay. More tomorrow and then the starboard sided. Many Regards and Happy New Year

Thanks for the all the comments and looks with nice flags. Just note of caution to all building or going to build Erycina. The outer counter layer goes on as instructions state, but after I undid all the clamps the counter had split. Not noticeable but still split. Getting it wet may have prevented this or maybe one more clamp right next to the stern post hole. Finished putting the stem, keel and stern post sides on again with multiple clamps. Looking carefully at the joints I noticed the seams and decided to add filler and sand smooth since they are to be painted. Next was the outer layer of bulwarks. These went on with not issues. Again their fitting is a statement to Chris's kit quality. Let everything dry and set and then on to pear planking. More to come Again thanks to everyone Best Regards Will

Back to work today spent quite a bit of time with not much to show for the work. Completed the finish sanding of the planking. These pictures are after a coat of sanding sealer was applied. I use sanding sealer as a primer for glueing the outside layer of planks. The sanding sealer also is absorbed into the wood filler making it more secure by filling any cracks. When completed the transom was added after preparing the bulwarks. I found that some light sanding was required to fair the bulwarks to give the transom a glueing surface. With the transom on some sanding was required to fair the lower edge of the transom with the inner counter. Once faired the outer counter was able to rest against the inner counter and transom. outside counter in place and holding until glue sets Now I must wait until the glue sets before continuing. Patience is hard for me but maybe I can practice and get a virtue what ever that is. More to come. Many Regards Will

Very Nice Hoss!!! 👏 👏 EMB is on my shelf todo and got to thinking about the diorama and went to a model railroad shop and got lost in all they had for layout dioramas. Many Regards Will

Had wonderful holiday with the family and friends with beautiful weather here in Arizona. Now back to modeling Erycina. First layer of planking completed and filler added. Not much to show except the filler. Completed planking port side Filler added. Just an even coat covering all the planking. Sanded smooth with lines checked with a strip of planking making sure the fairing is good. Bow view Stern view You can see the filler drying to sand tomorrow and then on the the next steps Many Regards Will

looks fantastic Chris. Building boats for ships is a model in itself. It can be fun but it is tedious the 3d boats for a smaller kit are a great answer. It appears that you painted the outside of the boat with the oars and thwarts, is the correct? If so it give a good gauge as to the boats thickness. Can't wait to we can order. Many Regards Will

Chris these are amazing. I find it hard to imagine how you've become such an expert at 3d modeling, many kudos to you.

I want to take time to thank everyone for the likes and comments really helps Now a short update. Not much time in the shop with the Holiday and family but I did squeak out a few hours and got 7 strakes on Erycina. Maybe a few more tomorrow. The lines on the strakes are marking the frames locations where to measure the strip width. Many Regards Will

atest update: Counter glued in place. Next was to start the first layer of planking. I've learned that kit strips have been sawed to thickness leaving a varying thickness so I run them through the thickness sander. While this may seem unnecessary I believe it gives a more even surface after planking to finish sanding. That done I followed the instructions by running the first three strakes without any taper. They almost lay flat of the frames but could be glued and held. The balance of the strakes I tapered as suggested. On my model this made quite a wave midships but I did have to make a drop plank at the keel. The final result is useable with some putty and sanding but I not satisfied with the result. I very glad there will be a second layer that I will have to do a much better job. You can see the opens between planks (the picture looks worse that it is). On the Port side will be done using Chuck Passaro's method of lining off each frame and transferring the data to strips to be shaped. So measuring the the frames to find the one with the largest distance between the bulwark and keel and dividing by 5mm resulted in 12 strakes. Nice even number to work with. Cut tick strips from card stock the length of each frame. Knowing the each strake is 5mm in the middle I used a radiating fan to place the tic strip so it touched 12 points and marked the locations on the tic strip. That divided the strip into 12 equal 5mm sections. The same was done with each tic strip. I then transferred to tic strip marks to the frames. You can see the tic strips in background. Next you mark the frame locations on a plank and then mark the width using the appropriate tic strip. To shape the strip a line was drawn using the tic marks. I made a simple jig to hold the plank while shaping to drawn line. The jig is a piece of scrap wood run through the table saw and a depth that allowed the shaping of the strip. it was easy to cut the strip using my violin plane. The problem of bending a strip around the compound curve of a model is where one side of the strip doesn't sit on the frame so we taper the planks to reduce this problem. Another method is to bend the planks to a curve so it sits against the flush against the frame, A simple jig for bending the plank at predetermined location. Heating the plank keeps it in the shape. I use a small travel iron to heat the plank while retained by the clamps. Now you just place the plank in position and glue. I use CA glue because I can hold the plank in position with slight finger pressure. Holding the plank up while adding the CA. Again you can see the tic marks on the frames. Two planks done 10 to go Many Regards Will

looking good patrick.

I took your advice Allan and glued 14" strips together and then ran them through the surface sander. I had some 1mm by 5mm by 14" AYC left from planking. I have a scrape piece of 2cm granite from a kitchen remodel that I use for a flat surface. It also has another helpful property glue doesn't adhere. I simple scrape with a straight razor and it clean. Glued the strips together on the granite and used weights to keep it flat from warping and after letting it dry overnight sanded it down to .026 thick. also had granite samples left over from picking the granite to use in the new kitchen Now I have enough to remake the companionway. Can't thank you enough Allan. Many Regards Will

Wanna take time to thank everybody for the likes, looks and comments I'm having fun building this little trawler. Having worked on my first Vanguard model I have become spoiled by how the laser cut parts fits, but now it time to do a little free flying. The keel fit onto the false keel perfectly and the cut water stem fit perfectly as well after the little sanding as described. The stern post fit the same with not modifications required. Again elastic bands held everything in place while the glue sets. A couple of clips holding the pieces square and they really weren't necessary since the frames had extensions below the false keel that kept the keel in alignment. All glued up and ready for the bulwarks. The pear wood really shows its color and seems a real shame to paint. Oh well! No locating tabs for bulwark mounting just the same old method of fit and glue. One thing that is very important about this part of the build is to read and understand the instructions. Two things jumped out to me that I'll speak to when there. The forward section fits into the slot on the cut water and just a little sanding on the lower section that sits below the slot. It becomes obvious when you hold the part up to place. This is where the two cautions come into play. The first is align the part on the lower deck etched into the bulwark. This is very important as you get the transom extensions you can see that reference for the little deck to be built. The second one struck me with a wham boy did I almost goof up. DO NOT GLUE THE BULWARK ABOVE THE DECK. The extensions above the deck will be cut off and stanchions will be added in the locations etched on the bulwark. I alway use medium viscosity CA glue when I'm planking and the bulwarks seemed like planking so I used CA. So what I did was set the bulwark in place and use clips to ensure it stays in place and turn the boat upside down and apply the CA at the joint of the deck, frame and bulwark. The last thing today was the counter. I put the counter in a bowl of water and boiled it in the microwave until is sank. Then it was just a process to set it in place and clamp for 12 hours. One thing that I should mentions is the counter extensions have a small notch as the turn up to the transom. When you set the counter against this notch on mine the forward edge of the counter rested the last frame by about 1/32" Glue the inner counter on tomorrow. Many Regards Will