CPDDET

It was my first build. Mistakes were made so tred lightly. LOL

Wishing you the best on your build journey. I'll be following.

So I decided to cut the pieces and mill the 1/4 inch groove into each piece. Please excuse the color cast in the photos, incandescent light source and I forgot to use my flash. I first set up my saw, clamping a piece of wood to the fence and using the miter gauge to guide the piece through the blade. This way I could quickly cut one piece after another without any further measuring or adjusting. Instead of making some kind of jig I just used the vice on the mill to hold the piece of wood I cut on the saw. Once the vice was aligned properly with the mill bit and I put a stop to keep the length of the cut the same for each piece, it went fairly quickly. While I needed 38 pieces, I decide to make a few extras. So 42 in all. Here is a pic showing how the pieces will be used to hold the bulkheads. It will be a few days before I can get back to this. Next will be the build board. Dave

Welcome aboard! You will find many build logs for Bluenose on this site which will be a big help for you.

All 19 bulkheads are now complete, next will be making a build board. The process used by Pat M is a bit different than my previous builds in that the bulkheads are attached to the keel with the ship upside down. I'm used to having the keel laid first and the bulkheads set onto it. Pat's method is the reverse of that. As you can see from the picture I posted previously, the bulkheads have legs which they are set on. Pat used small pieces of wood, notched to hold into which the bulkhead legs would fit and hold them upright and then the keel was placed onto the notches on the bulkheads. The hull is then planked, the model turned upright and the bulkhead legs cut off. I suppose I could do this the more traditional way by cutting the bulkheads legs off, lay the keel, attach the bulkheads and plank the hull but I'm worried that if I don't follow Pat's build log I might run into problems later in the build. Right now I'm tryin to decide how the make the bulkhead supports that hold the bulkheads upright. They will be 1/4 inch thick for sure. The question is should a cut a bunch of 3/4 inch by 1 inch pieces and use the mill to cut a 1/4 inch center slot for the legs of the bulkheads to fit into or cult a bunch of 1/4 inch by 1 inch pieces and place one on each side of the bulkhead, making sure its a tight fit. I think I will run a test on a scrap piece of wood and mill out a 1/4 inch slot just to see how tight of a fit I get with the bulkheads inserted into it. If that works, I could make a jig to hold the 3/4 by 1 inch piece and lock that into the mill vice. I could then mill the slot, pop out the piece, drop in another, mill the slot, pop it out, load another and so on. I need 38 of these pieces. Three choice here: 1. Cut and mill the pieces 2. cut thinner pieces and sandwich the bulkheads between them 3. Lay the keel and set the bulkhead onto it as normally done. Decisions, decisions..........

It's going to be a slow slog as I'm not sure exactly what I'm doing. 🤔

I'm building this from 1:12 RC plans created by Pat Matthews. His design called for plank on frame as he needed below deck space for things like motors and batteries. I have decided to build it plank on bulkhead. His plan also called for 1/8 inch frames but I decided to go to 1/4 inch bulkheads to aid in butting hull planks. Using Baltic plywood I have about 95% of the bulkheads completed (just 6 more to go). My aim is to build the model as close to the 1934 version as possible (even while on the hard in Cuba some changes were made during refurbishing).

Welcome! Lots of experience and help here. Take your time, work only when you feel like it, know when to put things and walk away for a spell.

Email sent. Thanks to all!

Anyone know if Joe at Modelers Sawmill is still around? Sent him an email several weeks back but never got an answer. Maybe his email has changed? I'm in need of some yellow cedar. Dave

I did order thru Malco, but Malco filled the order thru Martindale. Greg at Malco supplied the 2 names at Martindale for future orders.

I ordered thru Malco but it seems Malco filled the order thru Martindale. Greg, at Malco, supplied the two contact names at Martindale to be used for future orders. Malco had a 3 or 4 blade minimum. Not sure if that will hold true at Martindale.

Can you give us a size ?

Finally received saw blades from Malco after a long wait. After thanking them I received this email. "Dave ,You’re welcome. Martindale deserves the credit on this one. On future quotes contact Bill Pavlik or Mike Jensen at Martindale Electric for pricing and delivery. Thanks, Greg"

Nice work! Welcome aboard.

True. It may work best for builds at a certain scale. Larger dowel drilling can be done in various other ways. But for some it may be a big time saver.

Keep the rest of us mill owners posted on your efforts.

I'm sure there are examples on youtube.

Would have to use a dowel plate first to assure the correct diameter.

Hard to resist, isn't it? I'm a tool addict.

https://hobbyisthaven.com/products/locator-for-coaxial-and-through-holes-drilling

Agreed! I used the NRG half hull model to gain experience. Had to do it twice but now feel pretty confident.

Well, I finally finished up. Mistakes made? many! But more knowledge was gained than mistakes made. I now feel much more confident in my next build which will be a bit of a change. I'm going to attempt my first scratch build. This will be Hemingway's fishing boat Pilar. But first it's off to Alaska for a weeks vacation. When I return Ill get started on that. I can highly recommend this Nautical Research Guild kit to learn proper hull planking. Dave

Plan is to stain the hull a warm oak. I had a few small gaps in the hull strakes that needed filling before staining. In order to make these as invisible as possible I did the following: Using this filler that can be tinted with either oil or water base stains. Placed some in a paper cup and, using a pipet, added my stain and mixed until I was happy with the color. A few hours to dry and then sand and stain.

Thought I would pass along a few new techniques, at least new to me. First is this pre-stain which is very convenient as you sand before using, apply pre-stain, wipe off excess and then stain without further sanding. The only drawback is that you are limited to oil base stains. Here is a piece of basswood, sanded and pre-stain applied to the right side. While the right side is a bit lighter, a second coat could be applied. But much nicer looking grain. I also discovered this wood filler that can be tinted with either oil or water base stains. I'm using a warm oak oil stain to fill some small gaps on my hull. Placed some filler in a paper cup and used a pipet to add the stain and mixed well before using. While this wood fill will take stain as it comes, I find the tinting works even better. The filler is pure white.