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CPDDET

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CPDDET

  1. So my plan right now is to use Alclad Polished Brass over Alclad Gloss Black Base on the prop shaft support to match, as close as possible, the brass prop and shaft. I want to use Alclad Dull Aluminum for the anchor windlass, running light housings and vents but not sure what to use for a base coat. Any advice?
  2. Have several smaller parts for my current build that were made by 3D printing. Would like to paint these to look like metal (brass, bronze, chrome, aluminum etc.) I've heard that Velliajo makes a good product but is difficult to work with. Also have seen paint pens for this purpose. Asking for advice on a good product and process.
  3. Welcome to the group! I had a 30 foot sloop when I was a younger. Had a great time sailing her.
  4. Welcome aboard. I hope your problem finds a solution.
  5. In the process of gluing in supports between each bulkhead to stiffen the entire build before fitting the keel and fairing the hull. First step is to make sure the bulkhead is as vertically straight as possible. To do this I used a large rubber band to “clamp” the square to the bulkhead. I used a large rubber band so it would gently hold the bulkhead in place but still allow adjustment. Next was to draw a line on both the port and starboard side on the bulkhead to assure the support was level across the bulkhead. I used a compass, sliding the pointed end over the top edge of the bulkhead and making a line about 1.5 inched down from the top. Then, after making sure the bulkhead was vertical, used a caliper to measure the distance between the bulkheads and locked in the measurement. Used the locked caliper to transfer the measurement to the saw (between the fence and saw blade). Cut the support, then glued and clamped it in place. The process will take a few days as I’m using Titebond Original wood glue and have to leave the clamps in place for an hour before moving to the next bulkhead. So only getting 4-5 per day completed.
  6. All bulkheads are now in place. Next will be gluing in stiffener block between the bulkheads before I can start fairing the hull.
  7. Looks great!
  8. Looking very nice. Don't over fret on the hull planking. It's going to be painted over anyway. A thin layer of wood filler and sanding will give you a great looking hull.
  9. It's always slower going than I would wish. Being retired, one would think I'd have nothing else to do. But life constantly gets in the way. In any case, I'll keep at it. Always trying to be methodical and not rushing anything. Correcting mistakes takes up time as well, and I'm dealing with some of that now.
  10. I purchased a basic Badger brush and compressor kit. Don't use it too often but I love the results when I do. Yes, it takes some maintenance but what dosent. Badger also makes paint that can be used straight from the bottle, no thinning required. While air brushing provides a beautiful finish it's not what you want if your seeking realistic results. Ships were painted with brushes. So depends on the look you want.
  11. Finally started placing the bulkheads on the build board. After placing a few at the aft end I decided to place the most forward bulkhead to make sure the keel is straight. The keel (s) as seen in these photos is not glued in place yet, its dry fit to assure proper bulkhead enlightenment and its straightness. The keel is split in order to accommodate the prop shaft.
  12. This is a hull plank layout, as best as I know. But I'm no authority on the subject of deck planking either. Best of luck on your journey!
  13. This is an example of 4 butt shift system. There is also a 3 butt shift system.
  14. Welcome aboard!
  15. Welcome aboard!
  16. Welcome!
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