CPDDET

Welcome! Enjoy the journey.

I know I saw a link for a protractor app somewhere on this site but I'll be darned if I can find it again. There are several apps available but I want to check out the one that was recommended. Anyone know what I'm refering to? Dave

I marked the tops of the bulkheads to align them with the topline using a machinist square as outlined in the practicum. I used a small Japanese pull saw to trim them. After much shimming and sanding and test fitting planks I finally finished fairing the hull (or half hull). This picture shows an example of how laborious this task can be; note the piles of sawdust and gaps that needed shimming. The process took about a week to complete, working an hour or 2 each day. But I’m quite satisfied with the final product. I also installed the transom and transom support piece, as well as the counter. I found using a piece of 1/16 inch thick basswood for the counter to be easier than using thicker wood. Here is one mistake I made. When installing the support pieces between the bulkheads I ended up placing them in line with the plan markings for the wale. This sometimes blocked the use of my square when trying to mark the wale on the bulkheads. I was able to mark either the top or the bottom of the wale on most of the bulkheads, but not all. Not an insurmountable problem, but a bit frustrating. I really need to get better at looking beyond my current processes to see how they will affect future processes. This picture kind of shows the issue. Moving on to the garboard and broad strakes.

When all is said and done I keep different types of glue available for different tasks. For me, one size dosent fit all. Glue is just another tool. And like tools there is always the correct one needed. How many cutting instruments do we use? How many types of clamps? Sometimes we use files, sometimes chisels and sometimes sandpaper, and so on.

Welcome back!

I'll second the Keel Klamper

All the frames have now been installed. I didn’t feel like sanding or shimming the stiffening spacers between the frames that came with the kit and decided it was easier to make my own. I first cut a strip of scrap wood the same thickness and height as the kit pieces. Using my caliper I measured the distance between the frames at their base and locked it in place. After raising the blade on my saw, I rested the caliper on the fence and adjusted the distance to the saw blade. Then lowered the blade and cut the strip to the proper width. This gave me very accurate pieces and assured that the distance between the base and top of the frames was equal. Before gluing in the furthest forward and aft frames I held them in position and marked them at the rabbet / bearding line. Then sanded them, test fitting as I did so. Then glued them in. Now Ill trim the top of the frames using my Dremel with a cut off disk and start the faring of the frames. I’m going to take my time with this and not screw it up like I did on my first attempt. I figure this might take several days.

Welcome aboard, from a fellow sailor.

Nice work!

Welcome aboard!

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/clamps-vises/bessey-reg-2-needle-nose-spring-clamp/xcl2/p-177023398174645-c-9135.htm

Welcome aboard!

As always, you're an inspiration.

Welcome aboard. Looking forward to your progress.

Welcome. Seems your build is coming along nicely.

Welcome!

Looks really good!

Welcome aboard!

As long as one reads well ahead to avoid issues down the road. I have found when working on any step, I have to keep in mind the several upcoming steps.

Thank you for the comment. I meant no disrespect toward you as the author of the practicum. This being my second attempt at this model, I just found it easier to change things up a bit. As stated, I'm not suggesting anyone else follow my lead. If it's ones first attempt at this build its probably best to follow the practicum as written. And thank you for your dedication to this craft and helping us all become better at it.

I'm sorry that I'm not being very helpful. I reviewed my post on this process and have been banging my 73 year old head against the wall trying to recall the process I used and exactly why I posted what I did back on 3/29/22. But that's almost 2 years ago and I just cant seem to come up with anything. I hope the process goes well for you and please know I'm always available for questions. Dave

I did a few things in a different order than shown in the practicum. Now I’m not suggesting anyone else do this, I just found it easier for myself. The practicum calls for deepening the slots for the bulkheads, tapering the deadwood, cutting a notch in aft portion of the keel and trimming the stemson in order to fit bulkhead 5A. I found these easier to do these before gluing anything permanently to the build board. It took a lot dry fitting and temp gluing of the keel, keelson, stem and stemson. I found that Elmer’s Rubber Cement worked well for me when temp gluing pieces. The rubber cement takes longer to dry but it’s easy to pop off the pieces and the cement can be easily removed from the build board without damaging the build plan or wood pieces. One can rub it off with their finger or, on the wood, used a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel if needed. Below is a pic of all the finished pieces. My only mistake was made when trimming the stemson for bulkhead 5A. The cut piece should look like a backwards “L” with the lower part of the “L” supporting the bulkhead. I misread the instructions and cut the stemson all the way down creating the following: Lucky this was easy to fix. I just cut a small piece of scrap wood, which was the same thickness, and glued it in place. After the final gluing of the stem, stemson, keel, keelson, deadwood and sternpost, I glued in bulkheads “E” thru “4”. I found by using the Titebond Quick & Thick glue, I could glue in a bulkhead about every 30 minutes. I’ll let this dry overnight and move on to the spacers that go between the bulkheads. Moving on…….

Check out page 11 of this build log

Welcome aboard! Nice model you have there.

These are the tools I used to remove the parts from the billet (think billet is the correct word) and to remove the char. The razor saw has been my favorite for quite some time to cut the pieces out. Others are sanding sticks, various grits of sand paper and buffing pad. The dowel and can were used to sand curved areas. I included a sanding disk because it was recommended by Toni although I had finished the chore before I got her message. The small piece of wood at the top cut with 45 degree angles was used to make the rabbet. By wrapping a small piece of sandpaper around the angel and sliding it along the keel, keelson, stem and stemson it’s pretty easy to achieve the correct angle; just sand to the drawn pencil line. The wood piece is narrow enough to handle the curves as well. After dry fitting the keel, stem, stemson and keelson pieces and making adjustments, I tacked them down with white glue (later switched to rubber cement) and double checked the joint alignments. Then removed them from the plan and drew the lines for the rabbet. After marking the deadwood portion of the keel, I took a deep breath and sanded the edges using the angle cut wood block and 220 sand paper. The “step” on the upper part of the stem was cut using a #11 blade and small chisels. While the transition of the rabbet as it rises up the stem and stemson isn’t perfect, it’s much better than my first attempt and I’m happy with it. Moving on…….