-
Posts
84 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Glenns_TX
-
Thanks for the tips Cathead. I'll give them a try. Fortunately, there aren't many more bend required that I can see. The two wales and the rails. Can I bend them. Then paint before gluing them to the ship. Right now I need to get the stern fixed. Followed by painting the plank area. My pounce wheels arriving today. I should be able to begin adding her copper sheathing this weekend.
-
Well I cannot say with certainty the kit is at fault for this one. Having only worked with plastic kits, I’m not used to having to focus on this level of detail and correction. And my desire to rush in and make progress probably played the bigger roll. But no worries. If filler doesn’t work, I’ll sand it off and glue on a layer of basswood. Then carve and sand that to fit.
-
Well fellow modelers, I have a choice to make. It seems priming has revealed those marks and dents in the hull I filled and sanded. Guess I didn’t use enough filler and do enough sanding. These are below the waterline which will be copper sheathed. So do I just spray a clear coat and copper over them? Will they show in the copper? Or do I need to fill, sand and prime again?
-
Masked the deck tonight. Sprayed the hull, keel and outside gunwale primer white. Will need another coat in the morning. If it’s not to cold and damp. Then inside gunwales need a few coats. After that I can paint them. And then copper the bottom. The thread on The Bounty’s color I linked to on page 1 said the standard at that time was blue planks and black Wales. Is that true or is it the reverse? I would have thought blue would be more expensive. And the black be caused be tar. Need to learn so much.
-
Didn’t like how I mangled lower port rail laser cut piece. So took some of the scrap from its plywood sheet and cut a piece to length and glued it. Will cut to width once that is dry. Then proceeded to draw the waterline. My second mate wanted to help. Fortunately she bores easily. I know it’s a crude method. But it looks right on plan to me. Now just need to find a safe way to bend this 3x1mm wale. Thinking of letting them soak overnight in a water alcohol solution. What do y’all think?
-
A little progress today. I filled gaps with wood filler and sanded. Reenforced all my keel joints with white glue. Primed(I hope), the metal furniture and plastic wood windows. Used white. NowI just need to paint the frames yellow. And the windows will remain primer white. Then I added the gunwale bottom edge. It is a 2x1 mm and fairly thin Walnut strip. But it did not want to bend easily enough. So I tried the plank benders. Used very light pressure. Just enough to leave a mark. When I began wrapping it around the bow, it came apart at the crimp marks. Grabbed another strip. Made light perpendicular scores with the Exacto-knife. That bent easier. But not enough. But it did not break. So tried super glue. Didn’t hold. So used wood glue. And taped it on to hold until that dried. The tape wouldn’t hold the bent strip at the point where meets the keel. Used a binder clip. That appeared to be holding. Used my other clamps for the rest. Get to repeat the process tomorrow. I would not recommend this kit for a beginner because it’s small size makes many parts very fragile. But I frequently don’t know my own strength. So maybe it’s just me.
-
Well, I changed my mind a little. Didn’t varnish the deck. I couldn’t find minwax at Home Depot. I think Walmart carries it. I’ll try there tomorrow. So began installing the sides. The bow sections were a real pain. These plywood laser cut pieces are very delicate. Are larger scale ships laser cut pieces more sturdy? Anyway, I was afraid to try the plank bender. So the instructions said a third option is to soak in hot water and alcohol solution. Didn’t make them loose enough. But, persistence and superglue seem to have paid off. But it still broke at the notches.
-
Well she’s Finished. Messed up two decals. Well the first one simply vanished. And the starboard stern Arizona name was fine. Fine until I turned her over too soon to do the other side. Decided on simple rigging. Definitely my first good build. But she’s done. Unless you guys think I should cover her with a dull coat.
-
Still working on this. Last weekend I sprayed her with a gloss coat to prepare for decals. Bought beeswax for the rigging after the decals. Search high and low for decal set I could swear I had. But cannot find it. And my HobbyLobby doesn’t carry any. So tomorrow going to the local hobby shop or HobbyTown USA. Hope to finish her this weekend.
-
Haven’t done much with this cause it’s been too cold and we to paint. But tonight, I sanded the additional filling I added Monday. And decided the hanger needs only grey primer for the deck and white for ceiling and walls. Painted the ceiling tonight. Also spent time searching for an 8” bottle with a 1.5 to 2 inch opening.
- 12 replies
-
- enterprise
- revell
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Not much progress tonight. Since it warmed up, I spent more time preparing other plastic kits for painting. But I sanded the deck with 150 and 220. Then I cut a knotch out for the laser cut pieces which support the bowsprit. Trying to decide what’s next. Think this weekend, I’ll varnish the deck. Insert all the hooks on the deck. Paint the plastic wood grates. Don’t want to put too much deck furniture on before sheathing. And I need to prime and paint the hull before doing that.
-
No construction progress tonight. The Mrs. wanted me to take her some place this evening. She has difficulty navigating. So while waiting for her I examine my parts and plans more closely. To see all the deck furniture I need to prepare. Some I need only paint and glue in place. Others I need to make. I think you’re right Lou. Building from the inside out looks like the way to go. I don’t know why Corel didn’t write the instructions that way. Especially with how tight everything is at this scale. But at least this one didn’t look like a toy on their box display.
-
What length should the copper strips be? The Kate Cory at a scale of 3/16" : 1' calls for strips of 1/4" x 3/4". The copper tape I have is 3/16" wide. A little too wide for my Bounty at 1:130 scale. But I will make due. The instructions said the decking should be 4cm. So I'm guessing 1cm for the copper strips. That is probably too long. But shorter lengths will make this tedious task and arduous and almost unmanageable one. I still have time before I reach this stage. Sand deck Paint and install deck furniture Install bulwarks Install wales Find and mark water line Fill sand, paint and seal Find and mark Gore line. Then copper stripping.
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.