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Valeriy V

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Everything posted by Valeriy V

  1. Bob, unfortunately, Google translator distorted my thought a little, but oh well - it doesn’t matter anymore. I am grateful to you for your warm feedback about my efforts, thank you!
  2. Thanks Bob for the useful information. I already realized that my advice is unnecessary for residents of the US and EU. And, as I wrote earlier, I do not have such a choice and I am forced to work with what I can buy.
  3. It should be added that after adding acetone to the putty, it cannot be applied to metal parts. Only on wood and fiberglass with resin. This putty composition does not adhere to metal after drying.
  4. Nils! I think yes, you can work with a brush. But we must take into account that the hardening speed of this putty is greater than that of paint and you cannot hesitate. And most importantly, after mixing the two components, the putty must be diluted with acetone until it is very liquid. And you will have approximately 20-30 minutes for the entire operation.
  5. Nils! The deck on the model is currently made of plywood and is covered with a protective layer of varnish on top. But everything will change soon...
  6. Wooden slats were removed from the inside of the bulwarks and a deck was installed.
  7. The holes are drilled with an extended drill bit. First, 3 “steps” were drilled from the top, and then 3 from the bottom.
  8. Bob, I already regretted writing this phrase. We live in different conditions and I don’t have such a wide selection of hardeners as you do. And yet, with the resin that I have to work with, this is what happens. At the moment when it just begins to thicken on the hull of the model, I still have the opportunity to make it more liquid for a very short moment using a hairdryer. This technique allows me to have time to remove all excess resin from the model body and achieve an almost ideally smooth surface of fiberglass impregnated with resin, without lumps of excess resin.
  9. Avoiding wrinkles is not difficult: 1) I make cuts in the fiberglass fabric as shown in the photo along the green lines before applying the resin 2) after applying the resin in small portions, I smooth it along with the fiberglass with a soft rubber spatula 3) in case the resin polymerizes too quickly, I have a construction hair dryer nearby with which I can heat the desired area of the resin and fiberglass to liquefy it
  10. For rivet head size calculations I show the German Lloyd chart. Circled in blue is the thickness of the cooable panel sheet that I choose. Green color is the required rivet diameter. As a result of a simple calculation, I get the dimensions of the rivet head for my model on a scale of 1:100 - diameter 0.3 mm and height 0.15 mm. Even if I can make such small details on the model, after covering with primer and paint they will simply visually disappear. Therefore, it makes no sense to show rivets on this model. But the belts of the outer hull plating sheets will be shown.
  11. After the epoxy resin has dried, I cover the hull with liquid automotive putty using a spray gun.
  12. Thanks Andy! All these photos show a process that lasted approximately two and a half months.
  13. Hello Nils! You have glorious maritime roots and it's an interesting story! The customer of Blagoev’s model is collecting his collection dedicated to the participation of the USSR in the Spanish Civil War.
  14. Yes that's right! Brass is much closer to the scale thickness of the bulwark. After covering the model's hull with a layer of fiberglass, the wooden strips will be removed from the inside of the bulwark.
  15. Thanks Phil! I impregnated the hull of the model with liquid resin only inside. It makes no sense to do this outside, since there will be fiberglass with the same epoxy resin.
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