Valeriy V
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Everything posted by Valeriy V
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Chips at the edges of the strips can be easily avoided. To do this, you need to use a sharp tool and your caution. The main drawback, after the complexity, of the copper strip method is the difference in the thermal expansion coefficients of the materials. In this case, there is a high risk of cracking and peeling of copper strips from the hull.
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Keith, that's right, the hull of the destroyer was assembled with rivets. Metal sheets were overlapped to form sheathing belts. To depict them on the model, I use a simple method - automotive putty and masking tape.I think that this method is simpler and more reliable than copper strips glued to the hull.
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Thank you Keith, I'm fine thanks to heaven. I don't quite understand your question, are you asking about the cladding belts?
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These destroyers were coal-fired, had two steam engines with a capacity of 2100 horsepower, the speed of the ships was 26 knots.
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Keith, information on these ships in books and articles in Russian. Perhaps you can buy this book online. It contains many drawings and photographs.
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Now I'm just busy making it, especially for the destroyer, I need a larger size.
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Phil, this is very easy to do. First you need to fix the propeller shaft using a template, and then solder the necessary parts on the fixed propeller shaft. I show this method in the photographs of Varyag.
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Fitting propellers on the hull.
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Gary, congratulations on starting a new project! I make myself comfortable among the fans of your talent and will watch the process with interest. This is a delicious theme in every sense!
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There are sheathing belts.
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The main works on the hull are completed.
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Is this option possible - to feed the towing cable through the anchor fairleads?
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Having drawings of the ship's profile, at least three decks and a midship frame, you can design a general drawing of the hull. And it will be very close to the original. I wish you good luck in this work!
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I made some gears for the future. So as not to lose the skill of working with metal during the construction of the hull.
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We are all waiting for a fascinating story of the creation of another masterpiece! Keith, I wish you the best of luck on this journey.
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Thanks Keith, I'm fine! All parts are made separately and soldered together with silver solder. After soldering with silver, the brazed seam is very strong. This allows me to bend the propeller blade to the desired angle using ordinary pliers. In this case, between the propeller blade and the metal of the tool, I insert a small wooden spacer. It protects the item from deep scratches.
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Tony! Now I'm working on the hull of the destroyer. It's dusty and dirty work, and I try to do it outside. However, bad street weather now does not help speed up the process. And I'll have to wait a bit and work on different blueprints...
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Fast and neat work!
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Hello Tony! Yes, this is the photo that fascinates me! All problems with the lines plan are easily solved with the help of a graphic program. You did the right thing by photographing this drawing! I am already sending you a private message....
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In any case, thanks for your efforts at my request!
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Perhaps this is known, but the section TSS WAHINE (1913) erroneously contains 9 drawings of WAHINE (1966).
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Thanks a lot Richard for the tip! On this site, I found drawings of SS MAHENO I. I have long wanted to see them after viewing the magnificent model. https://archivesonline.wcc.govt.nz/nodes/view/787332?keywords=&type=all&lsk=68acb84e9681c8447b6d26479eb1fe4d
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Yes, all Union Company steamers from SS Aorangi (1883) to TSS Maunganui (1911) are of interest to me. This is exactly the period of shipbuilding that I am interested in.
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SS ARAWA and his sistership SS TAINUI . I will be very grateful to you if you learn about the drawings of these ships.
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