Valeriy V
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Everything posted by Valeriy V
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Fitting installation of pipes on the destroyer's hull.
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Details of both chimneys are assembled.
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All the details are collected together.
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Chimney details with casing and steam whistle
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I continue to build a destroyer. Parts made: - steam pipe - chimney with casing - casing of the ship's boiler room - steam whistle
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Hi Nils! I'm glad to see more steam ship models on this forum. I will follow your progress with interest.
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Roger! There are some subtleties in this method. But I'd better tell about them after you try it. For better understanding.
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To glue a huge number of sheets of copper plating on an armadillo, I use ordinary hot melt adhesive.
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Chips at the edges of the strips can be easily avoided. To do this, you need to use a sharp tool and your caution. The main drawback, after the complexity, of the copper strip method is the difference in the thermal expansion coefficients of the materials. In this case, there is a high risk of cracking and peeling of copper strips from the hull.
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Keith, that's right, the hull of the destroyer was assembled with rivets. Metal sheets were overlapped to form sheathing belts. To depict them on the model, I use a simple method - automotive putty and masking tape.I think that this method is simpler and more reliable than copper strips glued to the hull.
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Thank you Keith, I'm fine thanks to heaven. I don't quite understand your question, are you asking about the cladding belts?
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These destroyers were coal-fired, had two steam engines with a capacity of 2100 horsepower, the speed of the ships was 26 knots.
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Keith, information on these ships in books and articles in Russian. Perhaps you can buy this book online. It contains many drawings and photographs.
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Now I'm just busy making it, especially for the destroyer, I need a larger size.
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Phil, this is very easy to do. First you need to fix the propeller shaft using a template, and then solder the necessary parts on the fixed propeller shaft. I show this method in the photographs of Varyag.
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Fitting propellers on the hull.
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Gary, congratulations on starting a new project! I make myself comfortable among the fans of your talent and will watch the process with interest. This is a delicious theme in every sense!
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There are sheathing belts.
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The main works on the hull are completed.
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Is this option possible - to feed the towing cable through the anchor fairleads?
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Having drawings of the ship's profile, at least three decks and a midship frame, you can design a general drawing of the hull. And it will be very close to the original. I wish you good luck in this work!
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I made some gears for the future. So as not to lose the skill of working with metal during the construction of the hull.
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We are all waiting for a fascinating story of the creation of another masterpiece! Keith, I wish you the best of luck on this journey.
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Thanks Keith, I'm fine! All parts are made separately and soldered together with silver solder. After soldering with silver, the brazed seam is very strong. This allows me to bend the propeller blade to the desired angle using ordinary pliers. In this case, between the propeller blade and the metal of the tool, I insert a small wooden spacer. It protects the item from deep scratches.
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