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Valeriy V
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Everything posted by Valeriy V
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Wooden slats were removed from the inside of the bulwarks and a deck was installed.
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The photo shows the installation of side keels.
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The holes are drilled with an extended drill bit. First, 3 “steps” were drilled from the top, and then 3 from the bottom.
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As a result, the rear part of the model looks like this
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Making a break line in the stern.
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Bob, I already regretted writing this phrase. We live in different conditions and I don’t have such a wide selection of hardeners as you do. And yet, with the resin that I have to work with, this is what happens. At the moment when it just begins to thicken on the hull of the model, I still have the opportunity to make it more liquid for a very short moment using a hairdryer. This technique allows me to have time to remove all excess resin from the model body and achieve an almost ideally smooth surface of fiberglass impregnated with resin, without lumps of excess resin.
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Avoiding wrinkles is not difficult: 1) I make cuts in the fiberglass fabric as shown in the photo along the green lines before applying the resin 2) after applying the resin in small portions, I smooth it along with the fiberglass with a soft rubber spatula 3) in case the resin polymerizes too quickly, I have a construction hair dryer nearby with which I can heat the desired area of the resin and fiberglass to liquefy it
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For rivet head size calculations I show the German Lloyd chart. Circled in blue is the thickness of the cooable panel sheet that I choose. Green color is the required rivet diameter. As a result of a simple calculation, I get the dimensions of the rivet head for my model on a scale of 1:100 - diameter 0.3 mm and height 0.15 mm. Even if I can make such small details on the model, after covering with primer and paint they will simply visually disappear. Therefore, it makes no sense to show rivets on this model. But the belts of the outer hull plating sheets will be shown.
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It looks more interesting from the nasal angles.
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Then I sand the hull and bring it to this look.
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After the epoxy resin has dried, I cover the hull with liquid automotive putty using a spray gun.
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The hull of the model is covered with fiberglass with epoxy resin.
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Thanks Andy! All these photos show a process that lasted approximately two and a half months.
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Hello Nils! You have glorious maritime roots and it's an interesting story! The customer of Blagoev’s model is collecting his collection dedicated to the participation of the USSR in the Spanish Civil War.
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Yes that's right! Brass is much closer to the scale thickness of the bulwark. After covering the model's hull with a layer of fiberglass, the wooden strips will be removed from the inside of the bulwark.
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Thanks Phil! I impregnated the hull of the model with liquid resin only inside. It makes no sense to do this outside, since there will be fiberglass with the same epoxy resin.
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Brass inserts were made into the hull of the model for the bulwarks.
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The wooden lining of the model hull is sanded.
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The model supports will be attached as shown in the drawing. They will be similar to those shown in the photo, but only much smaller.
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Hello Nils! This ship has a horizontal keel. Only the thickness of the sheathing sheet will appear on the model.
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... and then it is soaked in very liquid epoxy resin.
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Thank you Roger! Everything is fine with me and I continue my story about Blagoev’s hull. The model hull is fully assembled...
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Thank you, Nils! I don’t have a laser cutting machine, so I ordered laser cutting. This is not an expensive operation. But I developed a drawing in vectors for laser cutting of plywood.
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