Valeriy V
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Stern lock trap
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I welcome all members of the forum and continue my report on the construction of the destroyer. The bow wheelhouse of the ship.
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This year, divers discovered these three wrecks and brought many interesting details to the surface. Here is a link to a story about these dives under water. https://dzen.ru/a/ZHm0TXZUbFRN7DJO
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These three ships did not last long and in the winter of 1919, after being compressed by ice, they sank in the Bjerkezund Strait.
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During World War I, Cyclone-class destroyers served as minesweepers. After the 1917 revolution, three destroyers ended up in the possession of Finland and were included in the Navy in 1919 under the names C1, C2 and C3.
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Yes, this is a small space, parts are produced here, and their assembly takes place in the next room and it is a little larger. But even on this table, models with a length of up to two meters are quite successfully placed.
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I remember your request. Now you can take pictures as a destroyer has appeared for the entourage.
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Fitting installation of pipes on the destroyer's hull.
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Details of both chimneys are assembled.
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All the details are collected together.
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Chimney details with casing and steam whistle
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I continue to build a destroyer. Parts made: - steam pipe - chimney with casing - casing of the ship's boiler room - steam whistle
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Hi Nils! I'm glad to see more steam ship models on this forum. I will follow your progress with interest.
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Roger! There are some subtleties in this method. But I'd better tell about them after you try it. For better understanding.
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To glue a huge number of sheets of copper plating on an armadillo, I use ordinary hot melt adhesive.
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Chips at the edges of the strips can be easily avoided. To do this, you need to use a sharp tool and your caution. The main drawback, after the complexity, of the copper strip method is the difference in the thermal expansion coefficients of the materials. In this case, there is a high risk of cracking and peeling of copper strips from the hull.
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Keith, that's right, the hull of the destroyer was assembled with rivets. Metal sheets were overlapped to form sheathing belts. To depict them on the model, I use a simple method - automotive putty and masking tape.I think that this method is simpler and more reliable than copper strips glued to the hull.
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Thank you Keith, I'm fine thanks to heaven. I don't quite understand your question, are you asking about the cladding belts?
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These destroyers were coal-fired, had two steam engines with a capacity of 2100 horsepower, the speed of the ships was 26 knots.
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Keith, information on these ships in books and articles in Russian. Perhaps you can buy this book online. It contains many drawings and photographs.
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Now I'm just busy making it, especially for the destroyer, I need a larger size.
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Phil, this is very easy to do. First you need to fix the propeller shaft using a template, and then solder the necessary parts on the fixed propeller shaft. I show this method in the photographs of Varyag.
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Fitting propellers on the hull.
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Gary, congratulations on starting a new project! I make myself comfortable among the fans of your talent and will watch the process with interest. This is a delicious theme in every sense!
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