Valeriy V
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Everything posted by Valeriy V
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Yes, Keith, this is the only and main mistake when painting brass. The metal must be perfectly free of grease. If the parts are small, then I clean them by dipping them briefly into a solution of nitric acid or for a longer period into the solution NaOH. If the surface is large, then I use the method of painters in car repair shops - gasoline caloshes and a rubberized napkin. All other solvents only spread the fat layer over the part but do not remove it. I want to clarify that all this applies to the conditions in which I live. -
Keith, еverything is simple there too. It is necessary to follow the principle of the order of soldering parts - from large parts to smaller ones. And then the larger parts do not have time to warm up by the time the small parts are already soldered.
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Keith! Soldering such large sheets of brass is quite boring and monotonous. You can solder them in sequence one after another. The brass sheets are massive and do not have time to warm up enough for the previous seam to fall apart from overheating. Everything is very simple here. The deck metal sheets were laid overlapping. Therefore, I need to show on the model steps with a height of approximately 0.2-0.3 mm. Cardboard does not have the properties I need for modeling. Therefore I don't consider it as useful material. Wood veneer with a thickness of 0.2-0.3 mm behaves like a sheet of paper. It has no rigidity and is very sensitive to changes in humidity.
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The bulwark is welded from parts and its half is installed on the forecastle.
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Brass blanks for the bulwark on the forecastle.
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Thank you all for your attention to my topic! The process of laying brass on the deck continues. Now on the forecastle.
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Large body and many small details! It will be interesting, I will watch it with anticipation. Good luck in job!
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Installation and soldering of sheets to bulwarks and bulkheads.
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Thanks to everyone who expressed their thoughts about the Kingston box! Now I have plenty to choose from for my grille installation option. I continue to work on the Blagoev hull. I'm starting to lay down the deck sheets.
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Daniel! I want to clarify, clarify, since the translator did not translate everything clearly for me. Do you mean that if the ship had a right-hand rotation propeller, then the water box should also be located on the starboard side of the ship?
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Daniel! Thanks for the practical and valuable advice. I will definitely use it.
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Thank you Joachim! The worst assumptions were confirmed, alas.
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Daniel! Thank you for your interesting and useful information! Based on Blagoev’s model, I propose to depict one grate for the water box on the left side.
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Thanks for your story! This explains a lot about my failed attempts.
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Thank you Joachim! If your experience is successful, please let me know. This means the bottom rectangular hole is for water inlet, and the top one is for outlet.
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Most likely, this rectangular and relatively large hole is really for receiving water from the condenser. It is located at the very bottom of the vertical side, at the side keel. A little higher to the right you can see one round hole.
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Thanks for your help and feedback! If this is a hole for receiving water, then a grate should be installed on it.
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As usual, there are not enough drawings for the model, so I will use information from other ships. This is a fragment of a drawing of the outer cladding in German (ss UHENFELS ). I need your help in determining the name of this rectangular cutout, if of course there is this name on the drawing. It is located in the underwater part of the ship in the area of the engine and boiler room.
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Sasha and Joachim, thank you for your nice reviews! By the way, I wanted to look at the work of German modelers and tried to register on the forum a couple of times. https://www.marine-modellbau-und-mehr.de/ But both times they didn’t let me go beyond the security check step. And now I’m at a loss as to whether I’m doing something wrong or whether I’m dangerous in some way (just kidding).
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Photo of the general view of the model hull as of today. I have work ahead of me on deck.
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Using an ordinary cutter and a homemade depth stop.
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Bob, unfortunately, Google translator distorted my thought a little, but oh well - it doesn’t matter anymore. I am grateful to you for your warm feedback about my efforts, thank you!
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Thanks Bob for the useful information. I already realized that my advice is unnecessary for residents of the US and EU. And, as I wrote earlier, I do not have such a choice and I am forced to work with what I can buy.
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It should be added that after adding acetone to the putty, it cannot be applied to metal parts. Only on wood and fiberglass with resin. This putty composition does not adhere to metal after drying.
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Nils! I think yes, you can work with a brush. But we must take into account that the hardening speed of this putty is greater than that of paint and you cannot hesitate. And most importantly, after mixing the two components, the putty must be diluted with acetone until it is very liquid. And you will have approximately 20-30 minutes for the entire operation.
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