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jeff watts

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  1. well its been a while since last posting any update ,,been rather busy but i have been making some headway with the build so i have put up some photos , you'll have to excuse the messy work bench !
  2. im just giving an opinion here , but i would have thought that given the angle of the shroud relative to the mast ,under strain there would be more pull on the rear shroud as the wind fills the sails , and so the sensible thing would to put the single shroud to the front ? i know thats irrelevent on a model
  3. thanks wefalk, i will check the books i have to see what method is recommended
  4. thats great , i thought it may be something along those lines , but wanted to be sure , now i can carry on without worrying whether i was doing it wrong , cheers
  5. thanks bob , i'll go have another read , hopefully theres something on the subject
  6. i may be being a bit daft here but ive looked through the literature i have and cant see an obviuos answer so , perhaps someone can give me some advice ? its my first build and im in the process of making up the lower shrouds on my hms victory kit , now the instructions are vague at best so im getting some tips from the rigging books which i have bought , which describe doing the shrouds in pairs on alternate sides from front to rear , now the main mast has 11 large deadeyes on each side , so i cant make a pair from the last one , any ideas please?
  7. well , i thought it about time i put an update on the log ,i know its been a few weeks , been busy researching how to do some of the little complicated bits , i bought a couple of books which have been recommended by many builders about rigging and masting , and have been practicing serving and decided to have a go at building the bowsprit , im quite pleased so far , put some fiddly bits on and made some yards on my home made lathe , also swapped the kit deadeye chains for more realistic looking ones and fitted them , also ive been trying to work out the best way of making the side netting hammock stays and how to sew the netting on , ive had to make quite afew little jigs to hold the work
  8. i like your comment about the masts and yards etc ej, im nowhere near that stage yet , but will keep it in mind cheers jeff
  9. great advice fellas, common sense when you think about it , shame i havent got that much lol
  10. thanks chris , i started putting parts on in the order that the instructions implied ( i say implied because the billings instructions are more of a guide than anything else TBH ) and then realised that im spending more time and effort in protecting these parts from damage than if i'd left them off til later , i suppose thats the harsh lesson of starting a large model as a first attempt lol , but thanks for the advise , at least i know im going in the right direction jeff
  11. hi again , ive come to a bit of a standstill adding parts , , waiting for more copper hull plates , i need a lot more than i originally guessed , ah well , obviously i need to get those on as turning the hull upside down after adding the fragile upper parts is asking for trouble , ive started making the cannons and the rigging for them and also the gun doors are done too , but not attached as im afraid of breaking them off as i do other jobs , question is am i going about this correctly , i seem to be making lots of sub assemblies ready to fit ,such as side netting and deadeye strops and chains etc but not sure what order to fit them as theyre so fragile , any advise is gratefully accepted jeff
  12. very true sir , about painting everything , i didnt realise they would paint that often , puzzling , my only concern now is that ive already bought the ochre colour for my build lol
  13. while earth colour will retain their stability for longer the binders (linseed oil etc) which make the paint liquid and subsequently'dry out ' will crack and deteriorate to a point where the appearance is almost powdery and bleached , where there are layers of paint over time being of the same colour through their depths can be explained by the fact that in practice the re painting of a surface would only be done when needed , and so the fading would be right through the layers in a similar way , just my theory , and obviously theres no way of proving it one way or another

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