Long9Ron

Rusty

Such a beautiful job. Very well done. Showcase model indeed. Congratulations.  

Bob

Your model looks great. Congratulations on a job well done.   

Are you considering building the full build of the Triton? I believe you would build a showcase one for sure. 

Maybe check out this link. It's one way of doing it. 

http://pisangs.blogspot.ca/2010/04/low-cost-diy-pcb-drill.html

Bob

Your X section is looking absolutely great. I like the work you did on the sheaves. Hoping mine turns out half as good as yours.

Welcome back Grant. I too am going through a spell of nothing done. Hope to get back to it soon. Well done job on the brackets.

I agree with Antony. The frames looks very nice. Great work.

Fantastic. Just fantastic. It will take me many years to reach the quality of your build. Well done.   

Congratulations on the ninth frame.  

Looking great Paddy.

It was filler not filler putty. Yes. Maybe a scraper would have been better to use. I will have to keep that in mind for next time. 

Beautiful work Rusty. 

Very nicely done.

 

When you sanded...did the wood filler have a tendency to smear or did it sand verily well.

Pete

When I used the filler it was quite the mess. I thought to myself, oh no what have I done. I tried to wipe off as much as I could and then I had to let it dry. After it dried I sanded the deck with some 100 grit and then some 220 grit. That still wasn't very good, as you said it did smear, so I had to sand it even more using my homemade toothbrush sander. I sanded each plank that way, first with 100 grit and then with 220. I thought that I would try the filler method as it has been mentioned before that this can be done, but it is a method that I think I will not use again unless it is in a pinch. It's just that I don't have a Pin Vise or any small drill bits or a draw plate to make bamboo treenails at this time. There is no real hobby shop in my city and I would have to travel about a 120 Km to get some supplies. One day I will, but meanwhile I'll just have to use what I can find here. If you enlarge the pictures I think you can see that the filler did smear, but oh well I learn as I go. But, I do think it looks like a very used deck and it is my first build. Plus, nothing was perfect way back then anyway. Right?

I see on YOUTube that you can clean the rust off with electrolysis. It seems like a pretty effective way of doing it. Has anyone tried it?

I have finally finished the Lower deck now. I used a homemade punch to mark all of the treenails and then filled them with a ebony wood filler and sanded the deck and then applied 4 coats of Antique Oil. I think it turned out okay. I placed two treenails on every plank between the butt planks, maybe overkill, but I still think it worked out okay. Could have been a bit neater though.

I picked up a few tools at a garage sale for $5.00 Canadian, but they are a bit rusty ( well a lot rusty ) and I was wondering if anyone has a solution to remove the rust. They are a few files ( round, rasp etc. and a hammer and a couple of drill bits). I have heard that using CLR will work, but if anyone has any other ideas that would be great. Thanks 

Ron:

You can measure the length of the sheave slots on the plan and then take off a couple of scale inches for the rope to fit. That diameter should be good enough. Since this model is not rigged, that will be close enough.

 

Russ

Thanks for the info Russ.

Welcome aboard. You're off to a great start. I will be building the full build Triton once I finish the Triton X Section. So, I will be following your build closely. By the way I love your framing jig. Can you tell me where you got the rulers with all the marking on them? They are great and just what I need to set up for my build in order to set my frames correctly. 

Looking great. True and neat. Good start. 

Hi -- what am I doing wrong? When I click on the link to the tutorial in Bob's post, i get a message that says "bad request."

Thanks,

Fran

Fran

It worked fine for me. Came up as a pdf file and opened with Adobe Reader. If you can't get it then let me know and I can sent it to you by PM.

I'm using Maple for my deck planking on my Triton X Section. I don't know which type of maple it is , but it's a very nice wood to work with. I got mine from an old maple chair and ran it through the rip saw with a 80 - 100 tooth blade. Soooo smooth it almost doesn't need sanding. Looks great also. 

Thanks Mark and Russ.

Method 1 does sound like the best way to go. I take it that the brass sheaves were turned on a lathe. Could you tell me what size of brass rod was used? I haven't done any lathe work for many years, but look forward to doing it once again. I don't have a lathe at this time to do it right now, but I will be looking around to get one in the near future. Besides, I will need the lathe to turn the barrels for the cannons also. Meanwhile, I can work on other things like making the ladders and pillars and treenailing the lower deck and such.

I'm almost at the point on the build where I will be making the MainSail Top Bitts and was wondering if the sheaves were made of brass or wood. I see on some models it looks like wood has been used for the sheaves, but in other models brass has been used for the sheaves. Maybe it's my eyes, but if brass was used, then how did they mount them inside the post? Am I wrong? I don't see anything in the pdf files on the MainSail Top Bitts that mention brass. Can someone give me some guidance on how to make them. Thanks

Bob

The framing for your decks are superb and the deck planking looks really nice. Can't wait to see the exterior planking. 

Ron,

You've probably said but in a short search I didn't get a hit. Is the decking Holly? It looks very good to me and the paper caulk isn’t shabby either. Well done!

Paddy

Thanks for the kind words. The decking is made from some Maple pieces that a neighbor gave to me. I still need to do some sanding and treenailing and then seal it. 

Rusty, Bob and Antony

Thanks you for the kind words also. 

Grant

I gave your way a shot at it, but I preferred to do in individually. Worked out better for me that way. 

The following pictures show the lower deck planking being installed. I used the 1,3,5,2,4, pattern and 100 lb. weight black paper and it looks okay to me, although the joints never really aligned with the ledges and beams. Oh well. learn as I go.

I have not decided on how to treenail the lower deck as yet. Maybe use filler as I don't have a draw plate to make any bamboo treenails and I didn't like the way the toothpick inner hull turned out. Toothpicks look to big and I should have had two instead on one.

You can see in the picture how far out my framing is by looking at the planking on the right side of the deck. I have learned a good lesson on this build. "MAKE SURE THE FRAMES ARE ALIGNED AND SPACED PROPERLY WHEN YOU FIRST START" or problems will be compounded further down the build. Next build will be better. Further sanding is required on the lower deck before treenailing and continuing. 

It's all a learning process at this stage and on this my first build. 

Bob

Your build is looking really good. Nice work.