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Hi Dave. Hang on a bit while i draw this mast. What scale is your model? I will draw a mast as I would make it for a model. BTW the trestle trees have the recess in them not the mast. Regards Allan

Hi Dave. Yes in essence that gobble gook means the tops are level. Not 90 deg to the mast. I have to read and re read this stuff because I too have have difficulty understanding that queen's English, even though it is the only language I speak. There are so many terms used then that are now not easy to comprehend. That paragraph is the bit about the trestle trees being let in to the mast. I started to draw Endeavour's main mast but it got late and I gave up. I will finish tomorrow and post it. Regards Allan.

Hi Dave A lot of these details are embedded in the fine print. As Investigator is smack bang in the time of Steel's Masting and rigging (1794) his work is most valuable. However it has errors in it as well. I have the "Foyle" copy and interesting how often the "C" word is used. All of the modern copies have bee sanitized. IE cut splice. Hope I didn't offend anybody with that. By the way the cheeks on Endeavour's masts would have been half the distance from the stops to partners not two thirds as in my drawing. (Investigator). There were quite a few changes in things between the two vessels despite being similar colliers. IMHO using Karl's ATOS book is the safest route. But then I am biased Ha Ha. Here is part of what he says about fitting the tresstle trees. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/part1.htm#pg24 The foremast ends are to drop as much below a square with the middle-line on the mast as the mast is designed to rake aft in the length, that they may be level when the mast is in its place. In this position they are made to bed firm on the stops, being square athwart from the middle-line. One inch and an eighth of the trees-trees to be set into the mast, and marked with compasses on the underside of the chock, and lowerside of the mast from their insides; and from the sides of the mast on the undersides of the trestle-trees. Then race by the upperside of the chock and underside of the mast upon the insides of the trees-trees, and the uppersides of the trees-trees down the sides of the mast. The trees-trees are then lowered down, and one inch set down from the upperside of the mast at the middle of the chock on each side, and one inch and a half at the upperside of the trestle-trees, and that wood taken away to the race upon the upper and fore side of the chock, then set up one inch and a half from the underside of the mast at the stop, and one inch at the upperside of the trestle-tree; strike a line, and cut away the wood square to the race underneath. The same is set off on the insides of the trestle-trees, and the intermediate wood cut away to the depth of the race on the upperside, so that what it is faced in on the mast remains on the trestle-trees. The trestle-trees are then got into their places, set close, and bolted to the mast-head, with three bolts, one inch to one inch and a quarter diameter, one through the underside next the stop, one through the upperside next the upperside of the trestle-tree, and one through the middle of the chock; the holes to be bored through three times their diameter from the edge. The bolts in the trestle-trees are driven from contrary sides, and are clenched on a ring. It is best not to bolt trestle-trees but when the mast is for present use. Regards Allan

Hi Dave. This may help. Here is my reconstruction of Investigators masts and yards. A bit later than Endeavour but the cheeks/bibs were similar. Endeavour would not have had the front fish. Note also that the trestle trees were set into the mast head by about 1". that is the trestle tree had a groove cut in it to fit around the mast head. this is usually ignored in models. The drawing shows a made up mast. The cheeks were attached (coaked) onto the spindle along with the side fishes. The sheaves (for braces) in the topmast tressle trees were unique to a short period after Endeavour so don't copy those. Regards Allan Investigator_masting.pdf

Hi Tony. It's a long explanation but the shape of the hull is essentially derived from the stations. amidships and fore and aft are constructed from a few basics, floor harpin, breadth sweeps, floor sweeps, etc. Both the waterlines and buttock lines are a method of controlling the hull form largely at the bow and stern. There are no formulas or graphical means (like controlled sweeps) to develop these areas. They were largely at the whim of the designer. There is more than enough data above to reconstruct the hull form above. The waterlines and buttock lies can be extracted from the stations given. the bow and stern shape can be derived also. The buttock lines are shown beyond station 10 which is where they are most useful. in developing the waterlines and buttock lines they are played off against each other until the hull form is fair. In the construction of the lines below I also used what I refer to as control lines. these are developed somewhat at right angles to the waterlines. The hull form is plotted into this view and the shape smoothed out. The points then projected back into the body plan and sheer plan and the waterline/buttock adjusted as required. See also the pdf on understanding ships draughts. understanding ships draughts.pdf This playing off of the lines is repeated many times until the hull form is properly faired. The mid body is well controlled by the floor harpin, breadth sweeps, floor sweeps,rising line of the floors. Regards Allan

Hi Guys. A couple of pics (before my attempts at defying gravity) Much better now. I will be starting the rigging soon. When I get bored drawing Investigator plans.

Hi Guys. Here is the revised booklet with Fig 1 included. Regards Allan PLANKING_rD.pdf

Hi bud. You are correct. Fig 1 is missing. I will fix it an upload a revised version. Stay tuned. Thanks for pointing it out. Kind regards Allan.

Thanks guys

Hi everyone. Not much model making ATM. Got over some health issues and then fell off the roof, broke my arm and fractured my back in 7 places. So it's left hand computer work for a while. This is what I have been doing. A set of rigging plans for Danmark. I got distracted into HMS Investigator. It is a drawing from first principles as very little is known about her dimensionally. Some other reconstructions are around but I have some short comings about them.

I can only thickness up to 25mm. So 4 pcs 25 x 260 x 1 each colour. I am south of you. Could post them. Regards Allan

Huon pine and close grain cedar. How wide do you need the planks. Regards Allan

Hi Vic. That looks like a nice kit. Keep us posted with the build. Regards Allan

Hi guys. I have been a bit quiet on this dealing with some health issues. (all good now). Here is a rigging schedule and belaying diagram for Danmark. All the numbers correspond to the Billings ones. Some of the rigging is NQR on the original plans. I will post doctored drawings of the errors soon. AllanDanmark Belaying Plan.pdf Danmark_rigging.xlsx

Hi Chris. No doubt the replica was built as necessary. The choice of timber has a lot to do with it. The method of terminating planks on the wale is typical of dutch vessels. The issue with most kits is the double planking technique. The outer layer is so thin that bending the planks sideways as is necessary is impossible. Even with single planks it is not possible without using steelers or drop strakes. Oak and Fir is a much more workable timbers than Jarrah and that is probably why the replica is planked as such. No problems. I was just pointing out that English ships of the era would have been planked as Kipping describes. I think that Karl almost had it right but in practice it would need more steelers/dropstrakes to achieve the desired result. Another interesting read is about ribbands. They used these to divide the planking into sections so they could work out where to put the steelers. Kind regards Allan

It does not matter how you plank your model. Whatever you feel comfortable with. However the replica Endeavour is not planked in the manner in which it would have been done in Cook's era. All of the planks terminated in the rebet in the stemKIPPING_PLANKING.pdf Here is an extract from Kipping which explains the process in detail. Allan Tyler

The manner in which Karl depicted the bow planking is difficult to produce. It requires compound bending of the planks. The replica is planked below the wales in a fashion more akin to the methods used on Dutch vessels. Here are a couple of drawings I produced in the 90's based on the how I planked the model. It's not the same as Karl's but easy to achieve. Based on contemporary paintings and other work I think it is a good representation. Regards Allan

One ought not state that a reference has errors without being specific. I does not help the model builder. Please point out any specific errors or where you may disagree with the work. Regards Allan Tyler

Some more progress.

Hi Snowy. Happy new year. BTY it's never snowy in Darwin ha ha. I assume you meant the box it came in. Allan

Hi Pat. The trampoline is mylar. Not much else wouldn't pull apart when laced up.

Merry Christmas everyone. Well I have managed to do a bit more on this model. Here is the radar and protective steelwork, I hope the new year meets all your wishes. Regards Allan

Hi guys. Thanks for the kind comments. A couple of pics of the lower masts. (so far) This work is not hard, just time consuming, take your time and have fun. Some of these parts are my second and third attempt. I look at the work of others on this site and get a lot of inspiration. I get a lot of satisfaction too. At this scale it's at the limit of my ability. (at this stage) But I keep trying. And so should you. Allan

Hi Don. I will post some more pics soon. I have been working on the lower masts.

Hi Jag. The model is just coated with polyurethane. (varnish) No colours have been used. The planking is New Zealand Kauri. Wales are heartwood Nectarine. Deck planking is Australian Murray pine. Model is of HMS Supply. The document was originally written for plans of HMS Supply Regards Allan.