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alpayed

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Everything posted by alpayed

  1. Hi Chris. No doubt the replica was built as necessary. The choice of timber has a lot to do with it. The method of terminating planks on the wale is typical of dutch vessels. The issue with most kits is the double planking technique. The outer layer is so thin that bending the planks sideways as is necessary is impossible. Even with single planks it is not possible without using steelers or drop strakes. Oak and Fir is a much more workable timbers than Jarrah and that is probably why the replica is planked as such. No problems. I was just pointing out that English ships of the era would have been planked as Kipping describes. I think that Karl almost had it right but in practice it would need more steelers/dropstrakes to achieve the desired result. Another interesting read is about ribbands. They used these to divide the planking into sections so they could work out where to put the steelers. Kind regards Allan
  2. It does not matter how you plank your model. Whatever you feel comfortable with. However the replica Endeavour is not planked in the manner in which it would have been done in Cook's era. All of the planks terminated in the rebet in the stemKIPPING_PLANKING.pdf Here is an extract from Kipping which explains the process in detail. Allan Tyler
  3. The manner in which Karl depicted the bow planking is difficult to produce. It requires compound bending of the planks. The replica is planked below the wales in a fashion more akin to the methods used on Dutch vessels. Here are a couple of drawings I produced in the 90's based on the how I planked the model. It's not the same as Karl's but easy to achieve. Based on contemporary paintings and other work I think it is a good representation. Regards Allan
  4. One ought not state that a reference has errors without being specific. I does not help the model builder. Please point out any specific errors or where you may disagree with the work. Regards Allan Tyler
  5. Hi Snowy. Happy new year. BTY it's never snowy in Darwin ha ha. I assume you meant the box it came in. Allan
  6. Hi Pat. The trampoline is mylar. Not much else wouldn't pull apart when laced up.
  7. Merry Christmas everyone. Well I have managed to do a bit more on this model. Here is the radar and protective steelwork, I hope the new year meets all your wishes. Regards Allan
  8. Hi guys. Thanks for the kind comments. A couple of pics of the lower masts. (so far) This work is not hard, just time consuming, take your time and have fun. Some of these parts are my second and third attempt. I look at the work of others on this site and get a lot of inspiration. I get a lot of satisfaction too. At this scale it's at the limit of my ability. (at this stage) But I keep trying. And so should you. Allan
  9. Hi Don. I will post some more pics soon. I have been working on the lower masts.
  10. Hi Jag. The model is just coated with polyurethane. (varnish) No colours have been used. The planking is New Zealand Kauri. Wales are heartwood Nectarine. Deck planking is Australian Murray pine. Model is of HMS Supply. The document was originally written for plans of HMS Supply Regards Allan.
  11. Hi Pete. The stuff Bunnings have is Murray pine. Australian native pine. Usually sold as decking, fence pickets, and fence posts. Huon, King billy and celery top are harder to find but it is around. Here also: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-kg-pack-of-HUON-PINE-Turning-Blanks/163854226854?hash=item26267915a6:g:0eMAAOSwQTNddh-u Photinia: see here: Regarding seasoning: Cut pieces to about 600mm long and just store in a dry place. For small sections you can "season" it in a microwave. Google "wood seasoning in a microwave" Regards Allan
  12. Here in OZ you only need: Huon pine. Murray pine. Every bunnings store has this. colour from creamy to almost black. Densest softwood on the planet. Awesome stuff. Photinia Robusta, the most common hedging here, and it beats box and pear for turning and carving. You will have to age it yourself. your Microwave oven is good for this. NZ Kauri. still available even if you have to smash up old furniture. Cellery top and King billy pine is also good. Old farm cypress is also plentiful. A bit like NZ Kauri. (timber recyclers love this stuff) Western Red Cedar is easily obtained and is good if a close grained bit can be found. Allan
  13. Hi Nils. I have had a look at both of your "windjammers" they are fine models. Keep up the good work. Allan
  14. Nils, I see you have built Pamir. One of our members (Ship modelling society of Victoria.) served on Pamir for many years. He visits NZ (where she operated from) often for reunions but I think not for much longer. He is a wealth of knowledge. He still holds his masters. Allan
  15. Regarding the rigging, I have been working on getting my ropewalk to produce very fine rope. I have perfected getting it to wind two single strands giving a rope diameter of 0.2mm. I think rayon is the best as it produces a thread with no fluff or fur. 1 strand x 2 =0.2mm 1 strands x 3 =0.3mm 1 strands x 4 =0.4mm 2 strands x 2 = 0.4mm (1x4 looks better) 2 strand x 3 = 0.5mm 2 strands x 4 = 0.6mm 4 strands x 3 = 0.7mm Allan
  16. Hi Peter. I think the kit that was given to me was pretty old too. There is a a newer one with updated fittings I think. I have accumulated a lot of images/plans etc. PM me and I will send the stuff to you. Their facebook page is good for photos. https://www.facebook.com/skoleskibet.danmark This xls may be useful. however its a work in progress also. Danmark_rigging.pdf rigging1.xlsx
  17. Thanks for the comments guys. It's a work in progress. Just about finished the deck details, now working on the masting and rigging. Allan
  18. Here are some pics of my attempt at bashing a Billings Danmark. The model was started by another person who unfortunately will never see the finished model. (how often does that happen) It was just a painted hull when I started. I stripped and refinished, then laid the decks. It's pretty much scratch from there. Some components from the kit are being used, turnbuckles, belaying pins for example. Allan
  19. I was making yet more parts today and thought I should share what I think is the best wood I have ever used for turning/carving. Photinia Robusta is a plant used mainly for hedges. Some plagiarism from Wikipedia They are a part of the rose family (Rosaceae) and related to the apple. The botanical genus name derives from the Greek word photeinos for shiny and refers to the often glossy leaves. Most species are evergreen, but deciduous species also occur. The small apple-shaped fruit has a size of 4 to 12 mm and forms in large quantities. They ripen in the fall and often remain hanging on the bush until well into the winter. The fruits are used as food by birds, which excrete the seeds with their droppings and thereby distribute the plant. The natural range of these species is restricted to warm temperate Asia, from the Himalaya east to Japan and south to India and Thailand. They have, however, been widely cultivated throughout the world as ornamentals for their white flowers and red fruits. It is better than Box, Pear or Apple. It machines and cuts like hard plastic and does not come apart. The flange next to the measured one is 0.2mm thick, The small shaft is 0.5mm did. With more care even smaller is easily obtained. Now I won't be held responsible for all the disappearing hedges around the world. Regards Allan
  20. I spent most of my working career designing machines etc and in latter years all on CAD. I don't make models to do that. I can understand why people get excited about 3D printing something they have modeled in CAD. I spent so long doing that the interest has waned. I would much rather wind up rope. I built a rope walk to make the rope for my models. This type of thing is what I enjoy and eyeballing sizes etc is all part of it. However I get huge satisfaction from building an item from scratch with raw materials, basic tools, my hands and eyeballing. Although I don't mind kits and kit bashing I throw out any component that is not up to scratch and make it myself. If the part is good and I know I could make it myself, why bother, just use it. Here is a pic of "Lightning's" rigging with some of that rope walks product. Also a CAD drawing of Chapman's Lobster Howker I did in 1985. The drawings and the CAD modeling is only a means to an end for me. Regards Allan
  21. Hi Clark, Oh yes I am a great one for just "eyeballing". If it looks right it must be somewhere near right. Regards Allan
  22. Thanks guys. I was here a few years ago but I was cast adrift in the computer meltdown, I was too busy to follow it up but now that I have retired I have more time to indulge in things. Regards Allan
  23. Hi everyone. Here is a booklet I produced 30 years ago which I have revised and updated. Enjoy. Regards Allan PLANKING_COLOUR.pdf
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