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Everything posted by WalrusGuy

  1. Tackles for one carronade are done 😁 Idk if it's too soon, but I've already stuck all the coils since I was happy with how they turned out. Now 15 more left
  2. Thank you for the compliments!! I also struggle a lot with knots and it took quite a few tries before I was happy with the results
  3. All breech lines are finally complete and have been installed on the carronades. Here is a close up photo of the knot I used: The distance between the hooks that I used was 52mm. I don't think I explained the process I used to attach them to the guns, so here is what I did: After measuring the 52mm, I made the knot in that side and seized it with the small thread. This was done for all the guns. Here are some follow up photos with all the carronades glued to the deck:
  4. It's looking great Robin!! Did you glue the carronades onto the deck? Or will you do this as you install the tackles?
  5. Congrats on your first grandson!!! That did happen during my first tries, but if you get the blade right between the strip and backing with a sliding motion, there is no crease whatsoever. And if a tiny crease did happen, it would be hidden away by the overlap of the next plate 😁
  6. I made a video on this yesterday! I hope this helps you out. There will be minimal creases in the copper plate if you follow this method: http://imgur.com/a/Q8zkf0b It takes a while to get used to that method. Also wear gloves when working with plates!! I was just lazy to wear gloves in the example video. If you work barehanded, fingerprints will show up when it ages. The instructions for the Syren Brig model ship are excellent, you can view the copper plating instructions here: https://modelexpo-online.com/assets/images/documents/MS2260-Syren-Inst
  7. Another small update, just received more goodies from Syren Ship Company! So for now I've received all the items I need to get the ship done. So for anyone keeping track, I'm replacing the following kit items with Chuck's: 1) all the ropes 2) all blocks except for the dead eyes and the small 3/32" single blocks 3) steering wheel (15/16") Also bought the serving machine in case it comes useful down the road
  8. K so I don't think its easy to explain with words and pics without overcomplicating the process, so I took a video instead πŸ˜„ http://imgur.com/a/Q8zkf0b (Let me know if you are unable to see it from that link and I'll try uploading it differently) Also wear gloves when doing it, I was just lazy to grab gloves for the example video, but if you touch it without gloves, fingerprints will come up. Hope this is sufficient P.S. it has been a while since I did the coppering, so its not perfect, but after 10 or so tries of this method I think you can get the hang of it.
  9. Quite the opposite, keep the photos coming!! I find myself also posting a lot of pics πŸ˜… It's looking crisp and symmetric!
  10. Oh yea I forgot you used basswood for the hidden stuff. That's really smart and I may do something like that if next time I get that wood again in a kit. Also, if I haven't mentioned it before, the hull is looking gorgeous!!
  11. This made me lol πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ I did this too and the thought did come every now and then I used Minwax Sanding Sealer for mine and it sealed all the wood pores of the basswood nicely. Not sure how it'll work with boxwood though.
  12. I think I found the one I like the most 😁 Right now the rope appears a bit floaty, but it'll will glued to the deck later on. To make it I attached the pins to crocodile clips and pulled the threads when I made the knot so it has the more distinct shape used in real ships. I used CA to "lock" it in place, both on the knot itself and and the section after it where it is seized by the smaller thread As always, any comments or suggestions for improvements are most welcome!!
  13. Thanks Will and Robin. I never knew there's so many ways to approach this. I guess that's what makes each model unique in their own way.
  14. Thanks Justin! Can't wait for the next chapter for all the other deck details!! This helps so much! The reference photos are very helpful. Thanks Thomas. I think I might follow the method you used. I'll set up another test line to see how it compares. Thanks again!! In the case for the Syren, click on "start new topic" in the 1801-1850 section of "Build logs for ship model kits" forum. Before doing so check out this link to see more detailed instructions in starting and naming your log:
  15. I set up a test breech line on one of the carronades. Wanted some advice before I make 15 more 😁 First, I used this string for seizing the eye and the lower part of the breech line. For the method I followed Dubz steps detailed here After about of an hour's work, I dry fitted the assembly of the carronades together with the breech line on the deck: So wanted some advice before proceeding (since this is the first time I'm rigging a carronade): 1) are the breech lines too short? Do they need to t
  16. Thank you for the amazing compliments and good wishes Will! My master's degree is in mechanical engineering, so similar to your daughter's field. So far it's been rough (and it's only been a couple of weeks πŸ˜…). Things are getting slightly better though, but let's see Thanks Abelson!! I'm so sorry to hear that, I can't ever imagine going through something like that.. If you get a build log set up I'll be more than happy to follow along!
  17. Thank you Robin and Eamonn for the great comments πŸ™‚ I think the inboard side of the hawse holes will be detailed later so I haven't touched it yet. But you're right, I should clean it up so photos look better 😁
  18. A very small update before starting the rigging I decided to make rings for the breech line as opposed to making the eye bolts bigger. I guess this is the more accurate way of doing things. Many other Syren builders also did this. Here are the bridle and aft most ones installed: All the rings have been made and I can finally start rigging 😁
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